THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'bump steer'.
Found 2 results
-
Not sure if anyone has had something similar, but here goes... In creating my models I observed two issues with steering: (1) Lego's pinion and rack steering mechanism allows for the turning of pinion by a mere 1/4 to 1/2 turn each direction (unless you use a long track, which may not fit in most models), and when connected to a steering wheel, some gearing down may be needed for more realistic 'feel' (i.e. u turn more on steering wheel for that 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the pinion gear). This gearing down worsens the play involved. (2) Bump steer - in push-along vehicles, you have to hold on to the steering wheel at all times, or else the wheels will veer left or right happily when you just push your vehicle freely. While there are ways to incorporate "return-to-center' behavior, these won't solve problem (1), and will add more load to the servo (if connected). So I thought of one way to solve these two problems at the same time - placing a worm gear in between, as below (worm gear in red): (lxf) So, from the rack and pinion, there's the worm gear, followed by 3 sets of 24:8 gears - axle from the first set can go to the steering wheel, while the axle from the 3rd set goes to the servo. I believe it is possible to make the structure more compact, and I'll do that when I get down to creating my next model . Any thoughts? -
.thumb.png.116032e930e483fb4ebbfdc62183bd34.png)
Warning: The suggested solution may not be regarded as perfectly 'legal' by some of you. Find out for yourself whether you want to go as far as this when it comes to fine-tuning your build. Everyone who has ever played around with custom steering setups with realstic features such as caster angel and/or camber angle knows the hassle of finding the most optimal tie rod and tooth rack position. Optimal in a sense that effects like toe-in, toe-out and bump steer are avoided as much as possible. And when you have found the optimal placement, there is still so much slack in the ball joints that your build is always left with a certain amount of toe-in or toe-out, When all seems fine when driving forward, there will be some toe-in/toe-out when driving backwards. It may not be the most aesthetic solution but I found a very effective way to reduce the slack in the tie rod / ball joint connections. Simply tie one or more rubber belts around the ball joints, just below the ball part of the joint. In my case the combination of a red rubber belt (24mm) and a white rubber belt (15mm) worked out perfectly, see image below. Note that in a standard steering setup with all ball joints perfectly aligned on a 1-stud grid, this approach will prove hard to apply, as it will pull the pivot points slightly away from their ideal position. It is particularly useful in custom setups that try to obtain non-standard features such as caster angle, camber angle or Ackermann steering.
.thumb.png.116032e930e483fb4ebbfdc62183bd34.png)