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Showing results for tags 'combination'.
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I have been thinking of putting my safes on Eurobricks for quite a while, and I've finally got around to doing it, thanks to the interest from @Leonard Goldstein. So, starting with the smallest... 1. Micro Combination safe Size: 4 x 6 x 6 1/3 studs. Instructions: No. Digital Model: Yes, for LDD. Video: Yes, see below. Photos: Video: 2. Mini Lock with key Size: 6 x 6 x 2 2/3 studs (not including shackle). Instructions: Yes, available on Rebrickable. Digital Model: Yes, for LDD, LDraw, and Stud.io. Video: Yes, see below. Photos: Video: 3. Mini Combination safe Size: 6 x 8 x 7 2/3 studs. Instructions: Yes, available on Rebrickable. Digital Model: Yes, for LDraw. Video: Yes, see below. Photos: Video: 4. Big Combination safe Size: 8 x 16 x 9 2/3 studs. Instructions: No. Digital Model: Yes, for LDD. Video: No Photos: That's all I've got for now, though I do plan to make some more (bigger/better) safes and (better) locks in the future... -
Hey there, Recently, I tried my hand at several Mech Armor style MOCs to see if I could put my own twist on those models, and created this duo. The idea was to design a $20 pack of two armors like the 76219: Spider-man & Green Goblin Mech Battle but to go beyond the simple "duo-pack" concept. Rocket's walker-type mech can convert into a cannon to use on War Machine's shoulder, as seen in the pictures below. More pictures and (free) instructions are available on my Flickr gallery. Enjoy !
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I was wondering if anyone has managed to combine 9493 and 75102 into one kind of "super x-wing". I tried but it fell apart.
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Most of the parts of the Makuta build are pretty easy to see in the images we were shown, but there are some things that are unclear, and some things that could perhaps be improved. I had the idea to start this discussion because I didn't see anyone else talking about it. One of the hardest things for me to notice was how they attached the 3M axle with the stud on the end, but after studying the image of the back of the neck, I realized they used this piece to do it, pushing the axle through from the back, so that's what I'm doing now. One of the alterations I made to the model was because of potential stress on parts. The images called for this piece to be placed both behind and in front of the heels of the silver feet, but the one behind would cause stress on the connectors used because of the placement of other parts right up against it, so I changed that one to this piece, which causes no stress on neighboring or connecting parts. The part is invisible on the completed model, and is not called for anywhere else, as well. I replaced the regular 4M axles connecting the small feet to the big feet with 4M axles with a stopper, because at one point I thought that the black Bohrok eye pieces had fallen off of the regular axles (I later found them in the bin of parts from all the sets I used to make my Makuta model), so I wanted to prevent that from happening, and those pieces are now going nowhere. I also placed one of these on the inside end of the connector used inside the drill, to prevent that drill piece from sliding up the axle in the same way the half bushes, gear, and connector piece stop it from sliding down. I hope you've found these helpful, and I hope you'll share any observations or alterations you've made concerning the model as well.
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