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Hey Guys, I'm back with my second alternate model of the Zetros set (42129). As you might remember from the presentation of my Unimog alternate, I was originally entertaining the thought of rebuilding the Zetros into a Jeep, but I passed since Tim has already built one. However, as I kept thinking of how I would do it, it became clear that I had quite different ideas in mind, and it was just too tempting to do it, so I gave it a go. Here I will write down the design process as that seemed to be something interesting for you guys in case of the Unimog as well, and I also prefer such presentations. Features - 3-link floating axle suspension with Panhard rod at the front - simplified rear floating axle suspension with 2 links of limited degrees of freedom and a Panhard rod - 2-speed gearbox with coupled RWD/AWD selector (hi gear is RWD, lo gear is AWD) - smooth and highly colour consistent bodywork - openable doors, bonnet and trunk - detachable hardtop - detailed interior with green accents, built seats - detailed engine, snorkel, minor extras (roof rack, jerry can, fire extinguishers) Here's a real 2-door model in dark grey color which I used as a visual reference: I also used a blue print to roughly set the proportions in a 1:10 scale. Bodywork Interestingly, this model started out from the bodywork, which I don't do often. As a fan of Jeeps, I have long been wondering what the best ways are for replicating its characteristic details, such as the hood and the grill with Lego parts. My Willys Jeep (alternate of the Defender) uses system parts for the (flat) hood and a simple vertical grill, but I wanted to build one with technic panels as well, replicating the slanted surfaces. I have seen two major techniques, one with the long wing-shaped panels (such as the models of @Madoca 1977 and @rm8), and the other with the long curved panel, mainly the classic model of @Sheepo. Since this set has those curved panels in DBG, and the wheels are about the same size as on Sheepo's model, I was wondering if a similar front could be built from the set, especially the angled placement of the curved part, along with the downward slanting of the whole hood, which also needed to be openable. It turned out that with quite a few alterations here and there, the hood could be built, and even better, they could be built using a few large panels only, which makes it look more clean and uniform.. Some arches needed to be redesigned, and the whole became 2 studs narrower, but the proportions worked fine. Then I moved on to the front and the grill, where much more redesign was needed due to different parts available, but after a few iterations with increasing the width and height of the vertical 'bars', I found the one that fit nicely with the smaller lights in the set and the newer curved small panel extenders (and as far as I can tell, newer Jeeps has such bigger grill, so it seemed fine). From there, I moved on to the sides. I knew it was critical to use the BDG panels carefully, because otherwise there would not be enough DBG beams to build the whole body, and I wanted a clean and colour consistent body. I quickly concluded that the doors can easily be built with the large panels, and the windows can also be built with the DBG connectors. The next critical point was to use the thinner long DBG panels in the rear part above the fenders. The difficulty was that they only left one possibility to mount the pieces of the fenders, so I had to use all those black angled beams there, and I had to build the fenders a bit wider so that I can actually connect the two ends to make it a stable piece. Fortunately, the wider fenders also made it possible to build the front ones from black beams at the same angle, even without more available angled beams using triangulation. The last critical piece was to use the small BDG panels in front of the doors, which just fit there tight. If I had to build that section from beams (as I started out), it would have cost too many beams and connecting them to the chassis would have been difficult as well, but the panel solved both problems (unfortunately, it has a drawback as well, which I will cover later). The remaining DBG panels were used in the back, also allowing for an opening trunk. The last tricky part was the rear corners with the lights. I wanted to make them more rounded with the curved panel extenders, but they would have screwed up the proportions, so I just used a slightly curved system brick to give it some curvature. Also I managed to use the black arched beams to replicate the characteristic rear roll bars, and the black tubular parts to build the roll cage, along with the 15L flip-flop beams, which proved to be critical for mounting the roof. The many flat black panels of the set were enough to build the whole roof, along with the side windows in a way that the whole hardtop is detachable from the roll cage as a single piece. Later, when it was more clear what parts remain, I also added the two bumpers, and even a nice snorkel and minimalistic roof racks were doable to give it more interesting details. Gearbox After being satisfied with the rough bodywork, I started designing the functional parts, which I also wanted to put emphasis on, since that's what technic is all about. However, since my Unimog alternate was about the suspension, this time I wanted to focus more on the RC gearbox and build a less articulated suspension which takes less space. I have been tinkering with the idea of a coupled 2-speed gearbox and a central diff-lock for a while (and @Pattspatt also teased me about it), but I never managed to design a compact one, where the drive motors are also placed conveniently. When I looked up a Jeep Wrangler drivetrain, I found this image, which was particularly interesting for me because of the front wheel drive that can be decoupled. Being offset to the side, I thought this could actually be nicely reproduced with lego clutch gears (something similar I already did with my Willys Jeep alternate, not knowing that it's done similarly in real life). After a lot of juggling with the placement of the motors and the gearbox components, I came up with this quite compact drivetrain setup with the gearbox inside the 11x7 frames, which not only includes the drive motors, but the steering motor too (later on that as well). The key ideas regarding the overall chassis structure are the following. First, I use a simplified (limited degrees of freedom) rear suspension, which requires only one CV joint, which makes the rear part of the drivetrain shorter, making more space for the gearbox, which is placed a bit to the back. Second, I placed the motors to the front of the middle section, and use the back of the motors as the mounting point for the front lower suspension links. Thus, the motors play a major structural role in the chassis. Here is the central part: And here is the whole drivetrain without the motors and the frames: As you can see, the rear part is short, and the front is offset to the side, and can just be routed between the drive motors, under the steering motor. Another interesting thing about it, is that it actually has two shafts (yellow axles at the front) coming from the two drive motors (but they are coupled by the red gear in the middle), and one of the shafts powers the 2-speed gearbox, that then goes to the rear axle, and the other shaft powers the the front axle, so the front axle drive does not pass through the gearbox, as it's only active in low gear. The orange selector switches both the gearbox and the RWD/AWD switch at the same time, activating the front of the drive train when low gear is selected. As with my Unimog, the placement of the gearbox motor was again difficult, as a lot of additional elements (end stoppers, clutch gear protection, down-gearing) need to be placed, so the gearbox motor had to be routed out to the trunk. Suspension As I outlined above, the rear suspension is a somewhat simplified live axle. I saw this trick first in @nico71's Ford F150 alternate, but builds of @rm8 use it as well. It is like a ball-joint based suspension, but without the ball-joint as support that prevents the axle from rotating forward/backward. In case of non-motorized models or smaller RC ones with less powerful motors, the joint itself is enough to keep the axle from rotating, but it was not enough in this case (the coupled motors could just rip apart the driveshaft), so I had to fix it explicitly. I opted for a suspension link that does not let the axle rotate forward on the far end, only tilt sideways (not using towball pins, just regular axles). This setup provides strong enough support to prevent the torque from ripping the driveshaft apart. A Panhard rod further stabilizes the axle to prevent sideways movement. Unfortunately, it's still not as solid as a ball-joint would be, and does not relieve all friction from the driveshaft. On the front, I used a similar 3-link suspension as the Unimog, but I had to move the Panhard rod behind the axle as the space was even less in the front, and managed to move the springs further in, giving it a softer and longer travel. It actually came out too articulated and had to be limited, as the wheels hit the fenders. Also, I used a better steering geometry than the Unimog (no anti-Ackermann geometry), and the max steering angle became very good, too good actually, as the wheels hit the bodywork at max angle, and can get stuck in it, so I limited the angle a bit, but is still better than the Zetros (the limiters are just half pins, which can be taken out to get a lot of steering angle, at the cost of risking the front wheel getting stuck in the body at max angle and max articulation, but work pretty good on flat surface). So the suspension is not bad actually, limited a bit by the bodywork, but the model still drives around quite okay on real terrain. Also, I wanted to experiment with a different steering setup, not placing the steering motor onto the axle. As said above, I found it a nice place between the drive motors, and using the CV joints there was just enough space to route it to the axle. It works okay, however, the two joints already introduce some lag in the steering, which is most noticeable when trying to automatically return to center, it does not center totally. But it's still okay and can be controlled with fine adjustments. Interior As the seats in the Zetros set were too small for this scale I needed to build bigger ones. Since I did not want to use the green beams on the outside, I used them as accents on the inside, they were enough to build seats and to be used in the middle console. I entertained the idea of making the steering wheel functional, since the steering motor is not on the axle, but there was not enough space to route it to the steering wheel, and furthermore, the curved panels used as a dashboard just block the way, and otherwise they are important structural elements that hold the front and the sides, so I did not want to alter them. The battery is placed between the B columns, as there was no other convenient place, and there it's easily accessible. The seats can be folded forward, to give room for replacing the batteries. The engine details are just some imaginary ones built from the remaining parts (nothing working). But the snorkel tubing continues on the inside :) Here is the whole chassis with the interior: And here are a few more renders and photos of the complete model, but much more is available on Bricksafe. Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor -
as a continuation of my 4x4 series, i made a few Jeep CJ5's. i've attached the LXF file if you wish to check it out. anyway enjoy.... like my UTV builds the two seats are more for looks than function.... interior dash, w/ speedo and passenger side grab bar... some bottom side details, a faux driveshaft... the typical 4x4 gear i add to my MOC's, a spare tire and a jerry can and hilift jack of my own design... next i'm working on a YJ with different headlights, front fenders, door openings, and rollcage. I'm too lazy to make perfect instructions for this, however, here's some notes to supplement the crappy instructions from LDD (assuming your LDD gives you the same instructions)... + STEP 3, add a 2x4 black plate (from step 8) in front of the 1x6 plate on top of the main 2x12 plate before adding the 4x10 plate + STEP 6, before starting, jump to step 72 to make SNOT assembly that fills the fender gap, add that on first + STEP 10, before adding the 2x3 brick, you can add two downward facing 1x2 brackets (from step 91/92) to the top of the frontmost 1x4 plate you just added + STEP 14, save the hood until after step 88. + STEP 16, do step 17 first. + STEP 20, before adding the black 1x2 plate, add a 1x4 black plate that sticks out 2 studs past the rear of the jeep (from step 78) this will be the rack for the jerry can + STEP 21/22, you can add the four 1x2 plates with mounting studs on both sides of the 1x1 plate before adding the 1x2 tiles that overlap them. (the 1x2 plates with mounting studs show up in steps 28/30 & 59/62) + STEP 23, before adding the 1x4 plate you can mount the black and colored (white) technics 1x2 bricks with axle holes to the open 2x2 space, (these bricks are found in step 81), note the black brick can be a regular technics brick with a round hole, it's main function is to just give the small axle we'll use some room to go into, the outer brick should be an axle brick though since it will hold the spare tire in position. + STEP 24-26, do these steps AFTER doing steps 50-56 + STEP 50, before starting, do steps 53-56 + STEP 56, afterwards don't forget to go back and do steps 24-26 + STEP 65, do after step 68 (unless you are a wizard) hope that helps, brick on folks! jeep-cj-v5-white.lxf.zip
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After seeing lots of different takes on the Land Rover (of various eras) I was inspired to design a minifig-scale version of the Series 2 for my nascent 1950s British village. LDD instructions are available here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Zetroc
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Hi Everybody, I want to show you my LEGO Army Infantry Combat Vehicle:
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Camellia Café presents a special designed SERVO JEEP model being controlled by Camellia Café Servo motor controller with ARM technology. ' This JEEP is a Full time or Part time four wheel drive car with shrink function and Servo running model. Front wheels and rear wheels are driven by two individual LEGO motors. When both motors are active, it is a full time four wheel drive car. When either is active, it is a part time four wheel drive car. The speed can be adjusted in a large range and with good accuracy via our motor controller. With an addition motor, the car body is able to shrink for easy parking, and extend to get spacious inner space. When using a mobile phone and Camellia JEEP APP, your children could control SERVO JEEP remotely. No matter turning, running back or running uphill, SERVO JEEP is mobile and powerful. In the SERVO mode, SERVO JEEP can run in a precise distance at a preset value. This plays a key role in autopilot and auto parking. The steering motor can be controlled with 5 degrees at minimum. Front differential and rear differential are used. Front wheels driven motor and rear wheels driven motor. Front wheels use double wishbone suspension. Steering system With an addition motor, the car body is able to shrink for easy parking, and extend to get spacious inner space. 40th LEGO Technic nameplate. Without car cover cloth. The car body cover. Open the front cover to see the front engine. Front engine - 6 cylinders V type. Rear engine - 2 cylinders V type. Rear of JEEP. Car lights: Daytime running light, Foglight, High beam and Red lights for break. Please enjoy Camellia Café servo motor controller and drive SERVO JEEP model. And make you own car at home. http://www.camellia.xin/models/servojeep.html -
When I find a car model I like, I will use the chassis as a base to create recolors and slight MODs (compare to the Chevrolet S10 and GMC Jimmy, which both use the same chassis but have a different shell on top). Within the scope of my city, I consider this similar to a Jeep. In this case, I started by recoloring 6514 Trail Ranger and adding a rollbar in the back. Afterwards, I modified it to a covered version and then made a custom version on top of that.
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Hi all, Hope everyone enjoys my trio of Lego Technic Jeeps, My MOD Jeeps are loosely based on the classic model from the 8865 test car model. I wanted to create a new version within the same wheel base and track, my first attempt was done in 2004 and was massive. Zoom forward to 2017 and you can see my "red" version. Al lot of the product was borrowed for other kits and Lego builders, however they all had masssive modifications in order to make them fit. I was happy with the "red" model, however the live axle bowed and the macpherson suspension had to much movement. So last week I decided to see if I could change this and in doing so, I ended with a lightweight chassis version. believe it or not, these two models share about 15% similarities, everything else is completely redesigned. enjoy the photos! Trio of Jeeps To see more images please view my Flickr albums Lego Tyres Builds -
Hi, ___ EDIT __________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________ HERE ARE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CURRENT VERSION: (description later in this topic) https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-28281/Horcikdesigns/offroader-for-overland-adventure/#bi ___________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________ This is my latest attempt at building offroad car. JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr Introduction and Motivation I built it for the Kostky.org TROPHY, adventurous event and AFOL meeting that is inspired by Camel Trophy series, and was held by Kostky.org (CZ+SK LUG) at 5th August 2017 for the very first time. It was awesome day, and I hope that there will be more. Here is the the official video from the event. There were really great cars there. The car itself The car was built to fit the rules of the competition. That means reserve "fuel" in the car during whole race before refuelling, remote control (no wire connection between truck and controller, S-bricks allowed) and representative appearance. So I decieded to go with the force, and installed two XL motors for the drive, geared down in 3:5 ratio, and two L motors, each for the winch (1:8) and steering (mini LA). I also reduced gearing to the minimum, due to minimal energy-consumption. (I nearly did the whole race to single Li-Po BB) The car is not perfect, it is very heavy (approx. 1500g), so it does not allow to use CV joints in the front axle for smooth wheel rotation. They managed to withstand the race, but in the finish (before the big uphill from the first video) they were strongly damaged, mostly because of big steering angle. Well, I hope that the video will say enough, if you have any questions, feel free to ask me. :) Photos: JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr -
Hello everyone! This is another Jeep which I built while leaving some unfinished projects on the shelf. For three months I have had no time for LEGO mainly because of my nursing job. (Did you see Wolverine taking care of Professor X in the movie "Logan"? I do something like that ) I really needed to take a new step forward for my motivation. Instructions of former two MOCs are still work in progress. I am sorry to keep you waiting. Jeep Wrangler Weight: around 1100g (with hardtop) -2 L motors for propulsion -M motor for steering -Front and rear open differential -Linked pendular suspension without shock absorbers -Openable hood, doors and tailgate with lock -LED for headlights -Detachable body The chassis is not realistic at all. It was new to me to build the suspension without using shocks. It even doesn't have sway bars. Suspension travel is long enough for this scale. It worked fine when driving over small obstacles. But on a steep incline (40+ degrees), it became unstable and tended to roll over sideways. That move was understandable because it had no anti-roll mechanism. I tried to put the battery box close to the center as possible for better weight distribution. Passenger seat was sacrificed for it, but the whole model with hard top is still slightly rear-heavy. Jeep Wrangler is known as one of the most modifiable vehicle on earth. So I made a few options such as 2-piece hardtop, tube doors, bumpers and another color scheme. But the best way is building more realistic chassis for this body. Unfortunately I could not make it this time. Maybe in the future... Building instructions for red version with those options above available at Rebrickable. I hope you will like it! -
hey all, so another year another calendar. I've shown off a few of this years MOCs before, but here's the pics that made the cut. (you can see last years thread here... http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=102510 ) The cover shot to celebrate the Park Services 100th Anniversary (also the August pic). A Two Door JK and CJ5 in Island in the Sky Four Door JK's (one Expedition prepped) and some XJ's on Fins and Things A gnarly custom crawler Jeep and a spotter in a JK (he took the bypass), all geared up for Easter Jeep Safari A Setup JK (with LED bar and winch) and the Expedition JK hitting the washes. A old curmudgeon and his Navy issue Willys to celebrate Armed Forces Day on the 21st Although the willy grill was definitely inspired by others i have seen i did my best to make it my own and build it without directly relying on others. I think i made some nice moves with using the old dark grey and the flags for seat back as well as a neat trick where i used lightsabers and 1x1 bricks with 4 side studs to create smaller red side markers on the back corners. you can't see the markers in the previous pic, but you can see in this earlier rev here (before i changed the window frame)... A stock XJ overlooking the White Rim A classic CJ8 with a truck cab top and classic wood trim sides near Uranium Arch (my favorite Jeep of this project) A YJ and CJ5 on the trail. Both of these Jeeps were in last year's calendar, but the YJ got a facelift and I reworked the grill to give it a better YJ look. I'm especially proud of the SNOT cheese slope move on the front to give it a better looking front grill. A tricked out, no-door YJ Crawler making light of a little climb. This one I was going to build with a full on exo-cage, but it ended up being too much so I stripped it down for a cleaner look. A Girl Powered top down purple JK crawl under a LEGO scale arch. The purple was actually really hard and expensive to get parts for, originally there was six 1x1 plates in the design, but when I realized that part was only ever available in the Harry Potter Knight Bus set, I had to redesign it down to only needing 2 since it was impossible to even find someone with 6 of them. Santa's red CJ5 stuck in some snow in the La Sals....hopefully the elves can dig him out :) The back cover with a couple in their CJ5 with a UTV hot on their trail. Finally here's a shot of us out on the trail with our UTV with some a custom decal i made :)
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Hi there guys! Here comes my first MOC - 4x4 Jeep. I spent 3 weeks on it and still have lots improvement to be done. 4x4 gear ratio 1:3.89 Front and rear solid axle Steering by PF Servo Drive by two PF L motors Weight 1300g 34cm x 20cm x 18cm chassis and body are build separately
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So what happened was... This whole venture started approximately two years ago. I was looking at leaked behind the scenes images of Jurassic World Dominion and I saw these tricked out Jeep Gladiators loitering around in the background. I immediately guessed that Lego was going to make their own toyified version (which became 76951-1 Pyroraptor and Dilophosaurus transport). But I wanted something that did the onscreen vehicle justice. After several incredibly unsuccessful attempts, I produced this. The parts finally arrived a few days ago and it feels incredible to have this absolute unit in the palm of my hand. The vehicle features 4 opening doors and seating for two minifigures. The roof rack also comes with two crates. If you would like instructions, they are available here. Please feel free to leave feedback! Onscreen film references: -
Hi all! My new model - is realisation in Lego - off-road custom based on the legendary american SUV - Jeep Cherokee (XJ). Everything according to the canons - axles, a rear differential lock, winch, snorkel, fenders, footrests, thick-walled pipe bumpers, an expeditionary trunk, chandelier and big wheels. -
Hi all, I'm happy to present you my Airwolf 1:25 scale model ! I started this project in 2013, inspired by Lego's 9396 Technic Rescue Helicopter. Seeing its front end, I thought "at last ! It must now be possible to make a convincing Airwolf model out of Lego !". I used Technic panels to get the aerodynamic shape properly, and have had good fun since then improving the model with new parts (the curved slopes for the exhaust for example). The model is based on the Universal Studios blueprints. It accepts 3 minifigs inside - Stringfellow Hawke, Dominic Santini and Caitlin O'Shanessy. Weapons can be displayed in or out, like the landing gear - I considered making those articulated, but at this scale I just could not figure out how to do this so these are add-ons parts. At the time I wished Lego would accept it in their Ideas project, but I got a reply that "being a military vehicle, Airwolf would not be allowed Lego support". I was quite gutted and just kept it for myself. Anyway, I'm happy to share it now ! After completing my Airwolf model, I felt I needed to make a full set of toys to make it more playable. The Bell 206s are based on the factory blueprints - also at 1:25 scale - and my first version of the Jeep was loosely based on Zed's MOC Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. Since 2013 it has evolved quite a bit, though ! Also, it was good fun reproducing Archangel's limousine FIRM 1 ! As a Cadillac Seville owner in the eighties, it was nice trying to get the lines of this Fleetwood Brougham limo properly. I wish Lego would make studless wings for the front end, though !!! You will note that I could not resist creating minifigures for Archangel and his lovely bodyguards ! You might even recognise Marella and Gabrielle ;) I still feel compelled to show my models with Ukraine colours as the war is raging on. It must stop ! I remember watching Airwolf episodes where the Russians (the usual villains, the Cold War was still on) were pictured as normal people just wanting freedom and democracy. I hope this is still true ! You can see more pics Flickr album of course : I wish I could make nicer renderings, as the photos are far from perfect. But I still can't manage chrome and transparency properly with Blender. Talk about a learning curve... Anyway, I hope you will enjoy the pics !
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Hi everyone,I present to you a Jeep Gladiator Gravity-inspired vehicle made out of only the parts from the Ford F150 Raptor! Now it was a real challenge to design some parts of this model only using the parts available in the Raptor however, I really believe that this model looks good and that its suspension (highlight of this model) surpasses the Raptor.This model is based on a variety of different custom jeep designs but its main inspiration is the Jeep Gladiator Gravity!Features Steering via a gear at the top Simple, matching and pleasant interior NO DOORS (Preferred for a better 'offroad' look) Opening tailgate and large bed Opening hood with working engine Solid 4 link axle front and rear suspension Amazing flex Great design! Conversation Starter! Full description, more photos and a video here Instructions: https://reb.li/m/101856 -
What do you think about this ? - all existing features of 42122 are still there - big wheels from 42124 Off Road Buggy Thanks for your feedback.
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Hello Eurobrickers, Finally I am ready to present my latest MOC, the so called Bruiser Conversion of the 4-door Jeep Wrangler. The real thing is done by JK Crew, it looks like this (more awesome pictures here): The conversion includes pimped up suspension, a longer body on the rear part, turned into a pickup, and larger wheels. As for the scale, the real Jeep Wrangler has around 80 cm wheels, and the conversion has around 110 cm wheels. I thought this would be an excellent material for an alternate build from the 42110 Land Rover set because of the color match and the available parts (like those rear mudguards), and the 80 mm wheels of the Defender, and the 107 mm Lego tractor tires result in a good 1:10 scale match. I thought it would deserve the large tires and a motorization, all available in the set 42099. So I ended up with two versions: - Manual version, pure alternate build from 42110, with an optional raised geometry and large tires - RC version that is a dual alternate with 42099 I will present both versions below. They are identical on the outside, they differ in the chassis build and the gearbox / drivetrain. Manual version (42110 alternate) I wanted to build something from the Land Rover that has a more aggressive suspension with large articulation. I have been playing with the idea of 4-link suspensions on both axles, and the 8 A-arms in the set are just enough for that. However, I had to do it with short springs only, so I used similar geometry as the rear axle of Grohl's stadium truck, but with longer lower links on both axles. Furthermore, I wanted to build it in a way that works both with the stock Defender wheels, and with larger ones. So I built a chassis in a way that the springs can be positioned in two places, and the suspension geometry becomes lower or higher. Along with this, the front axle is also moved one stud to the front, to make space for the steering of the front wheel (just like in the real version). As such a suspension requires a lot of space (if you want large articulation), the actual useful space in the middle of the model becomes relatively short. I wanted to preserve the same functions of the gearbox as in the Defender, so I had to compact it. Taking ideas from the Pimp my Land Rover project I managed to create a version of it that fits into the available space, keeping the same layout of the controls. Furthermore, I have included a functional V8 engine (the real one has a V8 Corvette engine). One part that I struggled with a lot was the HoG steering, as it was quite hard to bypass the gearbox and the front seats as well. Finally I managed to do it under the seats, but I could not fit a functional steering wheel as the chassis structure that holds the front suspension was just in the middle of its way. The interior came out quite clean and also replicates the real one quite well I think. The seats are similar to those of the Defender, but I had to make them shorter, as the roof is also shorter: On the outside one key point is that the real thing (at least this version) has its doors made of steel bars (which gives it a great look I think). This is good as the Defender would not have enough green panels to build 4 doors, but the bar doors could be built (at first I did not think I could get such a clean look, but I am quite happy with the result). On the front, I reused some ideas from my Willys Jeep, but changed it to a bit more modern look. On the rear part, the fender piece was an obvious fit, and I wanted to emphasize the bed with system parts, which also came out nicely I think. At first the A and B pillars and the roof was tricky to make solid, as it is only built from a few liftarms. But the final assembly is super strong, thanks to the column in the middle that goes through the gearbox (that was a key structural element to make). The model can be lifted safely with the roof. Some side panelling was also tricky to get into place, but I am satisfied with the overall looks. The doors, the hood and the tailgate are openable. The spare wheel fits nicely in the bed. One last feature I could add thanks to the Defender parts is the front bullbar with a compact functional winch (with rachet mechanism). Here are some side-by-side images for a comparison. I think it works well with both wheel options. More info, pictures and building instructions are available on Rebrickable. RC version (42110 + 42099 alternate) For the RC version I decided to use components from set 42099 as it has everything required: XL motors for torque, heavy-duty CV joints, planetary hubs, more A-arms and hard springs for suspension and the few extra parts in black color. First of all, I wanted to motorize it in a way that I keep the interior and the functional fake engine as well. Second, I wanted to add a simplified gearbox. The placement of the battery was obvious in the bed, the steering motor would go onto the front axle, but the space required for the two (coupled) XL motors was less obvious. Finally, I could squeeze them under the rear seats, and place the gearbox in front of them into the drivetrain. As for the gearbox, incorporating a 2-speed one (hi/lo gear) was simple, but I wanted to do something more with the available parts. Finally, I managed to add an RWD/AWD switch. For this, gearbox routing is a bit tricky, going through itself through idler clutch gears, and returning later. Furthermore, the front and rear parts of the driveshaft rotate in opposing directions, which is resolved later by the proper placement of the differentials on the axles. It was really challenging to brace the whole gearbox properly so that the gears cannot skip anywhere, I had to rebuild and test it several times (those two coupled XLs have a lot of power). On the downside, I suspect the relative complexity of the gearbox add some friction to the system. As I wanted to maximize ground clearance, the front axle was tricky to build, since the planetary hubs can only be connected with ball joints when steered. For this, I applied the trick used by other as well, that slants the lower A-arms a bit, resulting in very slightly non-vertical front wheels, but it is so negligible I bet you'd never notice. The resulting axle is fairly slick, I am happy with the result. As the steering motor made the front axle higher, the functional piston engine had to be minimized as well, and I could only do a mini V6 with the available parts. Unfortunately, this small construction does not run super smooth in a V configuration (sometimes the 2L liftarms in the main shaft kind of collide into the half pins that make up the pistons for a moment, instead of smoothly pushing them up; the inline configuration with the same technique works smoother). For this reason, there is some friction resulting from driving the fake engine as well. Here is the final chassis, and one more image about the ground clearance at the rear: Although the final gearbox construction is strong enough not to let the gears skip, there is one weak link: the driving ring can move out of the clutch gear under very high torque (although in my tests the model sooner went up the wall if not blocked). This is because the gear stick does not firmly hold it in place. However, it can be solved by fixing it into one position with a linkage coming out of the center column. This issue made me think how much more powerful it could be if the gearbox and the fake piston engine was bypassed, and eventually led to the construction of a heavy-duty variant (in which the gearbox is still kept, but instead controls the speed of the fake engine, when not in neutral). The heavy-duty variant is further geared down a bit to have even more torque. It can climb almost everything if the ground clearance permits, as you can see quite a few cases in the video. A few more images about the whole model: More info, images and building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor
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Mini Truck Model 8, Jeep Wrangler 1:15.No play Lego in over half a year, now 'Jeep' coming...At the same time,I would pay respects to Madoca.L motor +new wheel hubs, BuWizz normal.Infomations:L28xW14.5xH15cm, Weight: 970G,Still, simple and good playability, like RC, like real Jeep. instructions for free: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-79593/dpi2000/lego-mini-truck-wrangler-115-moc/#detailsThanks, again! Trial video This chassis part was built last year. -
Hello everybody! This is my first post on EuroBricks! My Flickr: Silvavasil_Lego Jurassic Park Jeep PF: Light - Servo -Lipo - XL LDD: Jurassic Jeep Instruction Look and like my Jurassic Jeep on Rebrickable please! ;) This is '90s Jeep Wrangler from legendary blockbuster Steven Spielberg's "Jurassic Park" As a child i feel in love with this movie. Now i have put together two of children's hobbies - lego and dinosaur!) This is lego technic rc MOC Powered by Lego LiPo battery, remote control drive and steering (XL & servo motors) all wheel drive, suspension, working headlights, opening doors, hood and tailgate, and a folding windshield. Photo by me too) Adventure 65million years in the making! Good text from the Brothers Brick: Incredible LEGO Jurassic Park jeep looks right at home in the jungle And Lego Car Blog: Jurassic Jeep -
This is a set I made for LEGO Ideas, but I figured I'd share it here as well. I'm still very new on Eurobricks and this is only the very first MOC that I've posted, so I'm open any tips anyone has to offer about how to format these sorts of posts in the future. The set is based on science fiction classic Forbidden Planet and includes minifigs of all the main characters from the film, including a block-built version of Robbie the Robot, plus the weird unnamed space-car thing that Robbie drove around. I also included a minifig-scale lego version of the film's poster. I tried to make everything as accurate to the film as it was possible to get at that scale, including custom decorations for the uniforms complete with accurate rank insignias. Here's some various angles of the car thing. Sadly, I wasn't able to make it so the front opens like in the film. Here's some of Robbie. Funnily enough, he actually has greater range of articulation than the original Robbie costume/prop did. And here's some closer looks at the poster I designed for it Let me know what you think. If you like it, please take the time to support it on Lego Ideas.
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Hi, this is my current WIP project, a jeep renegade. The goal is to make a mid size MOC which will use 62.4mm tires. The setup will be: Driven by 2L motors; Steering by servo motors; AWD; McPherson front suspension and multi-link rear suspension; I have been working on it for 2 months and here is the progress so far: Front axle: The whole car is supposed to be 19 studs wide and the lower arm ball joint distance needs to be 13 studs wide. The narrow width constraint makes it hard to put a normal differential in. So I chose to drive each side of wheels with one motor. I don't want hard coupe the two motors so a pair of 12:20 gears are used between motor and wheel. I have a little concern of the increased gear ratio as the weight of the whole car keeps increasing everyday... A compact built McPherson front suspension is used, the custom hub is small enough to be put most of it into the wheel. Combining with the king pin inclination, the suspension setup has a small scrub radius and can be fit in a compact wheel arc like real cars. There is no caster angle, no Ackermann steering. Also I failed to put the steering link behind the wheel hub since there is the 20 teeth driving gear. What's more, there is no room to put a typical inline 4 cylinder engine. I think I may use some fake cover in front of the servo motor to represent to engine bay in the end. Rear axle: The rear wheel hub has a very similar setup with the front. Uni-body: Like my previous MINI countryman MOC, the car has a uni-body setup like the real one. This time, thanks to the smaller size, the body is more stronger that the MINI's. It will have structural A pillar and C pillar. They are probably the most difficult things for me to build in the whole car. Front end: In fact, the motivation of the MOC is the idea of the face building. I tried to build a 75th anniversary edition here. All the things that I have so far: The size of tail light is little too big and it won't light up as the head light. Last but not least: As part of the iteration building process, another version is being built at the same time: The color scheme will be like this, of course, I need some more orange pieces... More pics are at: http://bricksafe.com/pages/falconluan/jeep-renegade Hope you like it and looking forward to your feedback. Thanks for watching -
Hello guys, Good Friday is here, everything is together to build but I'm somehow out of the ispiration. So I've decided to make a video about one of my old MOC's, however all those pics and vids I made back then are somewhat low quality. Excuse me for that please. It is an almost FJ40 looking dwarf jeep. Started out as an experimental chassis. Madoca's CUV had an interesting drivetrain and that inspired me to build the same concept as dense as it is possible. Accordingly it uses two PF L motors to drive each side separatelly trough an 8/24 gear ratio. A PF Servo motor is responsible for the steering and all govern by an Sbrick. As power source I could've use a AAA battery box, but since I'm addicted to my Lipo solution, I've used those. You may complain for the inaccuracy of using independent suspension in a jeep, so let me speak in my deffense: Once the chassis was done I was scratching my head what body should I put on it. As I said this is an old project, it has been done sometime when the FJ40 fewer gone across in the community. I'm being not quite good in building bodywork, decided to make something similar mostly following the shapes of rm8's FJ40. Probably it is a bit out of proportions, but since it was looking cute I've let it be as it was. Much later when I've discovered the Axle Collection Thread, I've find something similar to this suspension and drivetrain so I don't think it is any revolutionary here for you. Anyway, I hope you like this video peppered with some happy classical music. Happy Easter
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I have decided, that for my 500th post, I should introduce my new project, my biggest yet. I have chosen to make a Jeep Commando, which is a 2015 Jeep Wrangler with mil-spec additions. Full description can be found here and here are a few photos: JC side JC rear quarter And here are the blueprints I clumsily made up from the ones I found online: Jeep_Wrangler_JK_Unlimited_5door_2012_600_lq_0001 I have done all the math to find the size, based off the wheels I plan to use, which are the 43.2mm rims with 81.6mm balloon tires. So, if everything works out, it will be 45-47 studs long (bumper-to-bumper), and 21 studs wide (including mirrors). The functions I plan on having are: 1. Full PF including drive, steering, gearbox, lockable diffs, both central and on axles. 2. winch, PF, not RC 3. Opening doors, hood, tailgate 4. Partial interior I will begin today, hopefully I'll have some progress to report tomorrow. C&C, comments, any advice is welcome. Thanks! -
Here is another variation of my long endeavour to create proper homage to the b-model of 8865 which has to be my most favourite technic model. Even this model has gone through a few changes, although I feel Its complete. This model has an identical wheelbase and track as the original, the seating area is a little larger to fit in the 5+r gearbox in plus its a proper 4x4 model unlike the original. It has a fake V8 plus a tiny fan at the front taken from Legos boat propeller. The live axle at the rear is both compact and has a larger movement than the original. I'm still using a macpherson struts at the front which seem to work very well. Enjoy the photos anyway
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Hi everyone, I have finished my Willys Jeep alternate of the Land Rover set, so I'd like to summarize the final model here. Features: - Live axle suspension with imitated leaf springs on both axles. It uses one shock absorber per wheel, also positioned realistically. I also tried to construct the core frame as is in the real life car. - Manual 4-speed gearbox in a classic H-shape. Additionally, there is a Hi / Lo gear switch and an RWD / 4WD switch, just like in the real car, and the positioning of those switches is as realistic as I could get with the limited space. The whole gearbox is in the middle of the chassis. - Working inline 4-piston engine as in reality, I tried to add engine details modelled after the real engine. - Functional steering wheel and also HOG steering in the back (which had to pass through the gearbox). - Foldable windshield and opening hood with stander included. I managed to get the windshield folding joint similar to reality. - The interior is clean and I tried to get the shape of the seats as close to reality as I could, although the square and flat front seats were hard to reproduce with the available parts in that color. - Detachable roof, again, I tried to reproduce the shape of the tubing. - Extras: Jerry-can on the back, and of course the spare wheel. More details about the design process are given on Rebrickable. Here's a video showcasing the functions: And some renders and photos: Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Feedback is welcome! Cheers!
