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(Click to skip to the post with the latest photos) The Backstory: For years I've wanted to be able to display my 12v collection at shows/exhibitions/libraries or wherever, but the wiring is a challenge - I reckon on my last full layout there was 250 to 300 feet (75-90 metres) of the stuff, which on a static layout is one thing, but one built in modules for transport is a challenge. Three or four months ago I came up with a solution (more on that below) and the dreaming started. After much playing in Bluebrick, and nostalgic posts appearing here about older era trains, I settled on a plan. I still had a bunch of my old blue track from the 4.5v era, but no motors. Off we go to Bricklink then! The Layout So, here's the plan. Ten years ago I had a small portable layout on 4 modules, each 3x5 baseplates, and over the years have simply added more of these. Following my Bricklink spree, I now have 2 working 4.5v motors, so rebuilt the loco from set 183 and I have the loco from 7720 in progress. These 2 will feature on the 4.5v loop below, which is 3 of those modules. Next to the 4.5v loop will be the showpiece, the main 12v loops. 12v Lower by andyglascott, on Flickr And on the right of the layout will be the 9v loops. Unlike the other 2 eras, I will have 9v track left over, so this is likely to be expanded in due course, particularly as @michaelgale releases motors, power supply etc. 9v Loops by andyglascott, on Flickr Lastly, there will be another 12v loop, elevated, which will run across the back of all three eras. 12v Upper by andyglascott, on Flickr Putting all of those together looks like this (the white baseplates are roughly where the mountains, tunnels etc will be for the elevated sections. The green and grey sections are simply so I could keep track of where the 3x5 modules were to try and avoid having curves/points on more than one module. When it all comes together, in most likely a couple of years, I'll be able to run 6 trains at a time. Whole Layout by andyglascott, on Flickr The Beginning After all the planning, and clearing away of my last (incomplete) layout, I've finally started building the first module, part of the 4.5v loop. I decided to start here as this will be the quickest era to build, and to a large extent, each era can also be displayed as a stand-alone smaller layout. These three modules will be countryside/farmland, and the trains will reflect the farming side of it when they get built. Module 01 Pic 02 by andyglascott, on Flickr The 12v Wiring The solution that I've come up with is fairly simple, but does involve taking a drill to some baseplates.... At each of the 12v points or signals I'll drill a small hole through the baseplate and the wood for each module, thread the wire through and attach either the original Lego plugs or a quick connect/release plug/connector so that when the layout is set up I'll use already measured lengths of wire to go from that point to the control panels, which will be on their own module. This is going to be a heck of a journey, and build, I'll post updates from time to time, particularly at landmark moments such as completing an "era". I always said, growing up, I was keeping my Lego for my kids. It was really only an excuse, and I'm really glad I didn't sell my old blue track even though I didn't, for years, think I'd use it. Sadly my original 4.5v motors, battery boxes, lights and even signals are long gone, but I was only 7 or 8 when I got 7720....
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Hello I'm new on Eurobricks. I wanted to show my layout of my city. Size 8x 32x32 by 14.5x 32x32 Station wip Beach with bridge and ferris wheel Beach
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Hey there, i usually dont post in this forum (being an automobile builder mainly), but i just couldnt help but notice... I do see many layouts where Train Mocs and City sets are assembled together (obviously out of practical reasons). But the thing is, that it seems totally out of scale and relation to each other, not? Now i know some here really take their train scaling to an extreme level of detail and even apply a proper mathematical scale to them (especially 7 to 8 wide fraction). Yet, from my perspective adding City set vehicles or even Speed Champions into the same layout is kinda a bummer when it comes to size relations. It just makes the trains look small After trying out a few train cabs from 6 to 8 wide and comparing them to set vehicles and most 6 wide cars, it simply screams for the automobiles to be smaller in height, length and width. Cause actually most vehicles are oversized compared to the trains - it makes em somewhat "alien" to the whole display - IMO. Having lived through the 9V era, i think that even to this very day any 4 wide automobile will eventually look more true in scale to the layout than any 6 wide ever could. Since the Train widths (offical Lego scale) havent changed, yet their City vehicle scale did, why not go back to the roots a bit more? ;) 4 wides in displays these days are quite rare and tend to look plain, so perhaps something in between? I personally find that 5 wide is a good scale to work upon for standard automobile vehicles, since no matter if 6,7 or 8 wide trains, it simply passes as being in the same "universe" somewhat - just by being "smaller". One might think the detail is getting lost with a smaller automobile scale, but actually, using some of the professional train techniques people use on their Train MOCs, i personally figured that its possible to have the cars "as good looking and detailed" as their counterparts on rails....or at least i believe so^^ Here a supercar example in 5+ wide compared to an offical SC car on a flatbed cargo wagon compared to the "scaling" of the Emerald Express Train Cab. I personally think it blends in better with the allready small 6 wide trains (or 7 wide aswell)...thoughts? Cars and trains - the scale issue. by Ron Dayes, auf Flickr
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Hello everyone, in the near future I would like to show you a little bit of my Lego City, which is still under construction. To begin with, here is a video about the beach area I made yesterday. What do you think? Beach Area - Bricksonville Edit: latest video added (17.07.)
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Well after taking much inspiration from others here and having moved into a large home this fall I present our family's Winter Village this year! There are far more pictures here http://www.michaeldaykin.ca/2017/12/this-year-as-we-are-in-larger-home-we.html if you are looking for more detail. I had a lot of fun setting up pictures of the crew putting the village together after the move, right from laying the track to the finishing touches. They layout is on a Costco folding plastic table, which by the way are almost exactly 3x7 32 stud baseplates in size. At first I was just laying it out on a white table cloth but after finding white 4x6 plates on the PAB and deciding to try some 3rd party white base plates, I was able to almost completely cover the table with studs. The Village is made up of all of the official Winter sets (less the cottage) as well as a some of the smaller seasonal sets and a couple advent calendars. There are 12 32x32 3rd party baseplates occupying the front 2/3s of the table with the back 1/3 brick and plates. I raised each of the buildings in the back by one brick and used, the 4x6 white plates to texture up to them. The PAB wall also had the round one stud red-trans tiles which I used to mark some paths, and then I went back and they had the red and green 4x4 plates which made the main paths around. My wife also filled in the back of the station a little bit to make the back look more finished. What I really wanted to do this year though was the mountain with Santa's workshop on top. After a BL order I was able to build it to what you see. There is a dish shelf from Ikea providing the structural support. I also used the Creator Mountain Hut to serve as the base of one side of the mountain. The plan for next year is to make it completely brick built and more of an L shape, possibly with a ski hill but definately a second tunnel portal. How it gets fleshed out next year will partially depend on next year's winter set and how it would fit in. I'm going to get one more 4 pack of the base plates I bought so they go all the way to left side of the table and then a couple to go under the back side of the mountain. I hope you enjoy our little village, our family is having a lot of fun with it and setting up little scenes as we go.
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It's 7 weeks till Christmas week from now and you know what that means? Tis Christmas Train season coming up quickly! Some of you may remember me setting up a little train layout in my office last year. All colleagues loved it very much and so this year me and some colleagues are expanding the office train for this year! Compared to last year the new office train will be about 60% more track, 70% more cars and can carry more than 50% more "real cargo" than last years train! This year's office train will feature the following: - T-Shaped 9V layout with 3 stations (calling at 3 different desks, so everyone in this particular office has access to the train) - 4 Track wide cargo cerminal and card - 20m of track length in total - 16 cars in total - Original Santa Fe Super Chief Engine upgraded with the original light brick - Candy wagon for storing and transporting real eatable candy - Band wagon for transporting a bluetooth speaker and stage for the BrickBand - PF shunting engine for the Power Functions yard - A small handcar (this is an inside joke with colleagues) - Winter Holiday Train which I built yesterday I'm super excited - construction will begin this week. We'll see how far we can build it during lunch breaks. Pictures will follow shortly after! But to get me started, I have a couple of questions: How does one operate a 9V layout with two transformers? Do they plug in parallel (i.e. exactly the same way on both transformers)? What power settings do I use when running a train with two 9V motors (power setting the same on both transformers)? Do I have to unplug one of them if I run a smaller train with only one 9V motor, or do I just not bring up power on one of them? Thanks in advance for answering my questions! Here's the planned layout for this year's office train:
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Hello all, A week ago our LUG had a big group layout displayed at LEGOWorld 2017. The layout was a collaboration of @aawsum, @alois, Moos and me. LEGOWorld Utrecht 2017 by Erwin, on Flickr LEGOWorld Utrecht 2017 by Erwin, on Flickr LEGOWorld Utrecht 2017 by Erwin, on Flickr LEGOWorld Utrecht 2017 by Erwin, on Flickr LEGOWorld Utrecht 2017 by Erwin, on Flickr More pictures are available at my Flickr album. PS. mods, is there any way this can be posted in the Train forum too? I don't want to crosspost but I think this concerns both topics equally.
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Hi all! I've recently been working on a bunch of train-related projects and figured i'd need a place to display them once a substantial amount have been built. I wanted to do a city center station that, while still small enough to be affordable, gave an impression of being bigger than it actually was. And while it isn't based on the similar-sounding King's Cross, it does deliberately have a very London design. The result is half-terminus, half continuous with the platforms below street level. I tried to render it all as one but my computer doesn't have the processing power for all those bricks! I hope you don't mind seeing the build in its 3 main sections. SECTION 1: The building Ground Floor: First Floor: Front view: SECTION 2: The canopy This will be much longer in the final model. The version rendered here is designed to cover the remainder of the 32 x 32 baseplate. SECTION 3: Base level: Platform & Concourse I hope this has been an interesting looking build to you, I'll update this feed when I finally get around to making it for real!! I'd love to hear any comments and suggestions too! -Isaac
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If anyone has been following my forum posts then you know that I don't make my mocs symmetrical because I don't have enough parts too. I make one side how I want to and then either don't make the other side or just very plain. This is extremely frustrating but I've learned to deal with it. I really want to see the size and layout of peoples Lego setups and displays so I can get inspired and maybe others too. Here's what my display and setup looks like: If you haven't noticed, those beads are stored in an ice cube container...that's how desperate I am :)
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Hello LEGO fans! I want to share with my new MOC. I tried to make my LEGO railway more realistic. And that's what I did! As you can see, LEGO train tracks looks more interesting with some trees and grass. If you already have LEGO railway, try to add some objects to make it realistic. I like the result! Now my LEGO trains look great on these layouts. Have a nice day!
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My Speed Champions layout at the Taupo Hobby Expo 2017 in New Zealand. Contains a Drive In Movie theater, Car Showroom with rotating sign and turntable, Service Center with working pneumatic hoist, Motorbike Shop, Car Wash with moving brushes. Lots of lighting effects. Building roofs were removed for better viewing. More close up photos and videos to come. Enjoy.
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Hi all, A new video of my biggest layout so far is online. It has a huge bridge in the middle and has 9 trains running at the same time. Enjoy :)
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Hello my friends, I would like to intraduce you my Westen layout presented in last exibition of my LUG held couple week ago. Here you can see all my Western MOCs made in past few years together : In this pic you can see these two famous building, never released ideas project "Western modulars". I decided to make partial revival. Saloon is 80% of original, and this white building is apx 70% of orginal.
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I finally decided that I had enough track to try and set something nice up for myself, so after a bit of LDD work and the assistance of this webpage, I came up with this: I knew what I wanted was something that felt big, that had long straights, and track that wasn't just going at perpendicular angles to itself. The best part is, this track all lines well enough that LDD only has a small fraction of a stud of offset from the two 'ends' where the track connects back to itself - which is close enough that LDD let me place the track pieces intersecting each other with no issues. As an added bonus, there's lots of land space included in the right-hand loop, so it can house fields, houses, churches, more houses, warehouses, housing supply stores, etc.. This layout only really works because of some special numbers - seriously, read this page if you haven't already, because it's super useful: http://www.brickpile...ayout-geometry/ It's worth noting that the baseplates he shows in his examples are 48x48, but that won't really matter much if you're using 32x32 unless you insist on your track always being exactly four studs away from the baseplate edge. Starting from the left and working around in a vaguely clockwise fashion: The light blue segment is six straight pieces, the purple segment is the standard four curves for a 90-degree turn, the top green segment is 14 straight pieces, the orange segment is another 90-degree turn, the pink segment is one straight piece, the dark green segment is FIVE curve pieces, the red segment is 12 straight pieces, the minty-green segment is eight curve pieces, the pinkish-purple segment is one straight piece, the blue segment is another eight curve pieces, and the orange-yellow segment is three more curve pieces. In total, to build this, you'll need: - 34 straight tracks - 32 curved tracks For organizational purposes: keep two straight pieces separate, and connect the rest into a six-long segment, a 14-long segment, and a 12-long segment. Then you'll want to build three 90-degree curves, and two 180-degree curves. With the four remaining curves, attach one curve to one of the 90-degree curves, and connect the rest into a three-long segment and connect that to one of the 180-degree curves. Connect as shown to build this layout. I believe it's possible to extend the loop by adding pieces in certain strategic locations, but I haven't got the space to do so - however, good places to do so would be adding track into the middle of the light blue segment and into the 'middle' of the minty green curve (where it comes closest to the light blue segment), at both ends of the dark blue curve (extending how far out the curve reaches), or at the end of the orange segment and the corresponding parallel section of the dark green curve. Adding pieces into the middle of the orange segment and the red segment will throw off the alignment, according to the webpage I've linked twice so far (if you do this, add track segments in multiples of 12 only!). Anyway, this is my perfect loop.
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Simple video update with my current city layout. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8VlEbaw5ow And here are some pictures and the overall display is easy to take be taken apart and transported to public displays THANKS FOR WATCHING !
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Dear all Train Tech guys, Thanks to the kindness of SBrick team I got two SBrick units for some testing - one of them was built into my LEGO MÁV Stadler FLIRT electric motor unit, another one into my LEGO MÁV Siemens Taurus electric locomotive. We tried as well to install SBrick between 9V Train Speed regulator and a loop of 9V track, where usual 9V-based trams were running. Fig.1. TFOL driving SBrick-controlled Stadler FLIRT on our layout. 1. SBrick installation For first, a quick overview for those, who don’t know, how SBrick works. If you are familiar with the smart brick, you surely can skip this chapter. To imagine SBrick it is the easiest to think about a normal LEGO Power Functions IR Receiver with four outputs, more channels and without the restriction of the infrared technology - with other words your smartphone or device doesn’t need “visual” contact to the receiver unit, thanks to the bluetooth connection. Also it works surely fine within the range of 50 metres, but by good circumstances it works from 100 metres as well. Other great advantage, that SBrick’s current limitation is 3 Ampers per output, while PF IR receiver has 800 mA - better choice if you want to run something heavier then avarage 6W trains. Fig.2. The SmartBrick unit. (Photo taken from sbrick.com.) SBrick could be powered with normal LEGO battery boxes or LiPo rechargeable battery with a Power Function extension cable. It is also possible to power SBrick from old 9V battery boxes or even a 9V Train Speed Regulator, using the 9V/PF end of the extension cable. In this case you should check, if the little green light on SBrick is on - depending on polarity the SBrick is enpowered, or nothing happens. You can plug on your train motors, lights, other PF motors on the SBrick’s four outputs. Next step is to design your remote control interface for your device. To do this, you need to be registered on social.sbrick.com, then go to designer.sbrick.com to create your profiles. The profile designer works in most of the web browsers properly, you can add sliders, joysticks and buttons to it. It is really advised to fill the “name” field in setting - later you need to know, which slider do what when configuring SBrick. Sliders work like old RC Train Remote control, joystick is an advanced slider, buttons works like turn on and off. For all controllers you can configure maximum output - if you want to limit your train’s maximum speed, quite easy to do, setting a value lower then 1 to maximum output. Also you can set up, if the controller will reset to zero or not, when you stop touching the screen of your device. You can set background for your controller, you can change the design of the sliders, joysticks and buttons - we have dozen of previously created ones, but you can use also own-designed images as well. Fig.3. My profiles designed for event TEMOFESZT 2015. Upper one manages three SBricks at the same time, a tram line with a slider, the ferris-wheel with a button (0.3 maximum output) and two other sliders my FLIRT train. Theoretically, if your screen is big enough, you can manage 16 SBricks and 64 funtions at the same time from the same device - perfect tool to operate a whole layout. After the profile is done, you should connect your MOC to your device. To do this, you need the SBrick application (or for quick play SBrick Tester application). Create a new Creation in SBrick application, turn on SBrick in your MOC, add SBrick to your creation and download your profile to your device. Then click connected SBrick (or SBricks) in your Creations menu, and pair sliders and buttons (if you named them before, it is easier :) ) to the outputs (A,B,C,D) of the SBrick in your MOC. After doing this, click the profile in the app you made for your MOC, and start playing :) 2. SBrick & Stadler FLIRT Surely most of you know this creation. It is my 8 stud wide electric motor unit, the original train manufactured by the swiss Stadler company. The LEGO train’s weight is around 3,5 kg-s, previously it was driven by two 9V train motors and two PF train motors, connected to 9V ones. The train also has front-tail lights (using modded PF leds, described in RailBricks #9) and interior lights - three functions to operate. Fig.4. Cables and cables - all of my train’s funtions connected to the SBrick unit. The bigger battery box (which never turns off) grants continiouos availability until the batteries die. As before, I sacrificed the toilette part of the interior to install electric parts - the big AA battery box powers the SBrick unit, and functions are mounted on the outputs. I had a small issue here with the design of the SBrick - if you plug more than one PF cables on the lower (C,D) outputs, it will be inpossible to plug any to A and B. So if you have to plug more than one on some output, you should put them on A and B, or if three output needs more than one plugs, you should insert an additional extension cable first to lower one C and D, and then plug your needed cable ends to the extension cable. In the train now boogie 2 and 4 are driven - 9V train motors are removed, and normal train wheels replaced them at boogie 1 and 5. The third (middle) boogie is unpowered as well. Operating the train is quite easy, if you learn, how to use your touchscreen properly. Since I have direction dependent front-tail lights, I named on my profile (refer to Fig.3) the two ends of my train “A” and “B”, just like the real thing. When starting, I always turn on lights for first, and later if I press the same direction of driving slider, the train will start into the direction of three white lights on it’s front. This could be especially important, when you have a layout where trains are running not only around on one loop, but they direction can be changed at wye-s, and you can’t exactly remember, which end is which on your fully symmetric train or loco. Fig.5. Wye-s designed by Bill Ward. Perfect way to get lost, where your train will depart when you touch the screen, or even turn the PF remote control around. Operation time was fine - the SBrick unit doesn’t take more power than the PF receiver unit, with the pack of AA rechargeable batteries I operated my train for a full day (exhibiton was opened between 10 am and 6 pm), the train was running for 2,5-3 hours before powered down, and it wasn’t turned off for all the day. Also I tested the train at home for continouos running - after 15-20 mins the PF-train motors got too hot and and train stopped, while SBricks temperature raised from 36-38 °C to 44-46 °C. (You can get voltage and temperature data using the SBrick tester application.) The SBrick unit works fine - I doubted it will manage my quite heavy train (compared to avarage trains built by AFOLs), but it served really good - the more problems I had with the software part. The SBrick application written for Android have several problems - not serious ones, but quite annoying. Connection problems Sometimes the application can’t reconnect to the SBrick. It happens when you exit from the driving screen from your smartphone or tablet (in this case the connection will be dropped automatically), and then you turn on again your controller - it starts to reconnect, then askes if SBrick is powered. This connection issue may happen if you connect your MOC from an another device while the first device is disconnected - until you are connected to the MOC with the second device, you can’t reconnect with the first one. The reconnection problem happened when the second device got disconnected as well. Also using the SBrick and SBrick tester applications from the same device can lead to this reconnection problem. Fortunately, all outputs of the SBrick are resetted to zero when you device loses connection with your train, so no accidents may happen. Fixing connection problems As I experienced, restarting SBrick application helps in most of the cases. If this doesn’t help, in your creation’s menu you should remove the SBrick, then add it again, reconfigure it, and it will work. Application crashes Smartbirck application crashed for dozen times during the three days - mostly when attempting to reconnect. Slider problem Basically I used “slider”-s to drive my trains. I don’t exactly know, how the software part of the sliders are written, but the first 80% of the length of the slider from zero (middle) point is quite useless in train operations. After reaching 80%, the train starts slowly moving, but it is really hard to set up the train speed properly on the remaining 20% length of the slider bar. As far as I know a totally new application for SBrick is under contruction, so the output function for the sliders and joysticks will be redesigned in the near future to avoid this problem, and hopefully previously mentioned connection problems and crashes will disappear as well. 3. SBrick & Siemens Taurus locomotive During the summer event of Kockajáték Club I installed one the SBricks to my Siemens Taurus locomotive. The loco works with two Power Function train motors, connected to the old RC train base - SBrick was placed on the output of the train base, so to turn it on for first I needed to give maximum power from the train base. Check this video of the locomotive pulling cars, and controlled from a distance. With this locomotive we made also some fun tests with the train guys hanging around - we put ten of our 8W, 58-64 stud long coaches on the locomotive to pull them. When the magnet coupling didn’t fail (with careful driving) the SBrick unit (and the two PF train motors) could pull all the cars, but the SmartBrick got really hot in less than 5 minutes - we reached the 90 °C temperature easily, and the SBrick got shut down by temperature protection. After couple of seconds it cooled down, and the smartphone reconnected to it. The whole weight of the pulled train was around 11 kilograms. 4. Controlling traditional 9V lines with SmartBrick Using an SBrick doesn’t mean you have to give up your 9V trains, tracks and motors. Get a 9V speed regulator, put SBrick on its output with a PF extension cable, and use the same cable to enpower the 9V loop, putting the dark bluish gray end on the Smartbrick and the light bluish gray end to the part you connect to the 9V tracks. Turn on speed regulator to maximum, put a 9V train on the loop - and now your 9V creation could be controlled from everywhere in a 50 metres radius circle, not just from the speed regulator. Putting more sliders connected to more loops will give you the oppourtunity to controll all your layout from the same place, while you don’t need tons of 9V extension cables to put every speed regulator at the same place. SBrick is even a powerful tool when you don’t have loops, just sections isolated from each other, like analogous model railway - every section could be controlled as described by loops. If you motorise switches with PF motors and connect them to SBrick, you can manage almost everything only using your touchscreen. 5. Conclusions SBrick is a powerful device to make your LEGO trains work with minor issues. The greatest advantage of SBrick that you need no vision to the receiver unit and you can controll your trains from a great distance - no more runaway trains thanks to the limitations of PF IR receiver. SBricks is also compatible with older 9V-based stuff - those who doesn’t want to switch to the newest LEGO train system can use it as well. The current limitation allows you to make really big and heavy trains to run - which is almost impossible when using original PF IR receiver. On the other hand - one SBrick unit is quite expensive, one brick costs £40 and taxes. However this price is not that high if you compare the possibilities to the possibilities what three PF IR receivers can give you for the same amount of money. Current SBrick application has minor issues as well, crashes and disconnects are quite annoying, and the application won’t work propely on all Android-based smart devices. For final words, I really advise to everyone who is into trains, especially at big shows to make a try with SmartBrick. Running only one train with your phone or controlling a whole layout with one screen - the decision is up to you. Video of the functions described above:
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Here is my 2016 layout, with most of the items already built, but some still remain to be purchased. Here is a complete list of what's on my tables, not including trains or automobiles because they can be rotated on or off the layout very easily. All of this sits on three very carefully arranged 30 inch by 72 inch tables. Now for the reality check: This is the current state of my trains and town layout. I don't have any other space for things on the table, as below the tables and in the closet is full of Lego bins, either color sorted in slide-out drawers, former model chunks in bins, or put together in customized paper boxes. Here we see the entire layout and compared to the nice chart I posted earlier, it's bit of a mess. The water models area has a police station and Cloud Cuckoo Land in it, and the left hand town area next to the station has my clock radio and assorted stuff for models not yet built. The rail yard is mostly put together, with my streamlined 4-8-2 steamer and diesel PA / PB units getting ready for their day of work. The steam loco is arriving at the coaling / water towers to refuel while the ALCO units are going to be switched onto the mainline to pull it's assigned express train. (The train is not on the table to save space and keep it from getting too dusty.) The town is mostly there, with the streetcars rounding the curves onto and off the main street. The sections only needs two 90 degree (X) crossings to be finished. Now you may be thinking it's really bad, but it is a lot better than it was, and still has a ways to go. It's all about baby steps toward the larger goal of having my dream layout, something I have always wanted since seeing my Dad's layout when I was 5 or 6. For those wondering, here's my ideal layout's items.... most of them I have already, but a half-dozen or so I don't own yet. This layout contains the following track sections: 3 - Right switches 3 - Left switches 62 - Straight segments 46 - Curved segments 2 - 90 degree rail crossing (still needed) 1 - Double rail crossover This layout contains the following train facilities: - Truss bridge - Ironwood Train station -Trolley Stop (still needed) - Water and coal refueling stations - Double stall train shed This layout contains the town buildings: - Sinister Victorian Mansion - Stone Bank - Western Saloon - Thunder's office - Town Hall (still needed) - Military Surplus store - Tudor style House - Model Rocket store - Tavern - Train club meeting house - Railway Headquarters (still needed) This layout contains the following miscellaneous other items: - Tramp steam ship - Lighthouse - Car ferry - Leisure vessel (still needed) - Rural Cabin Comments and feedback would be really appreciated!
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Here is the 2021 update of our Star Wars collaborative layout titled "Desert Wars". It was displayed during the Walug exhibition that took place on the racing circuit of Spa-Francorchamps in Belgium during the weekend of October 23/24. This year, it reach the impressive length of 10 meters, which, so far, it is our longest layout, better than the 8.50m version presented in Antwerp in 2019. A smaller version of over 6m will be displayed in Antwerp on November 20 and 21. To fully capture the size and organisation of the layout, I suggest you start watching the video. Because taking good pictures of a 10m-long layout is quite complicated and frustrating. Desert Wars 2021 - Full video by Veynom, on Flickr If you say "collaborative" then you must think "team" therefore I will start by presenting the team members before detailing the layout sub-sections. Desert Wars 2021 - The Team by Veynom, on Flickr Xavier, one of the Belgian finalist of the French LegoMaster edition (S1). He was already participating to the Desert Wars 2019 layout. Julian, A young 17-old Belgian mocer who participated to a few Desert Wars edition already. A French team from the Star Wars Côte d'Opale organisation coming from the Northern part of France Gwen, Mathieu and their kids Julien et David Gregory and his son, Corentin Ulrich Hugo (see his Flickr gallery) and myself (far right on the picture), coordinator of the Desert Wars layout since they exist Let's start with a few global views: 10 meters of layout by Veynom, on Flickr The train layout under construction, with the train being ready to run. It took us 6h to assemble all MILS baseplates to ensure a smooth run of the train The train in action by Veynom, on Flickr 10 meters of layout by Veynom, on Flickr Imperial base by Veynom, on Flickr Jabba's Palace Masterpiece build by Xavier (and still not totally completed, like there is no roof YET), this is a huge, heavy, ultra-detailed MOC. It is packed with details, hidden rooms, motorised features (opening door, moving barge, moving Rancor, moving traps...), and mny, many lights. Jabba's Palace by Veynom, on Flickr Shot of the inside, still under construction. Jabba's Palace by Veynom, on Flickr You can figure out how large this is when you know the set. Jabba's Palace by Veynom, on Flickr Huge, this is. And yes, size matters! Jabba's Palace by Veynom, on Flickr There is a forge in the basement (next to the droid torture room). Jabba's Palace by Veynom, on Flickr The City - Mos Opal It measures almost 2 meters, with literally hundreds of details. Built by Xavier, Julian, Gwen, Mathieu, Greg and Corentin. It starts next to the palace's cliff with a commercial districs, followed by a slave market, then a large junkyard. A city on Tatooine by Veynom, on Flickr A city on Tatooine by Veynom, on Flickr A city on Tatooine by Veynom, on Flickr A city on Tatooine by Veynom, on Flickr A city on Tatooine by Veynom, on Flickr A city on Tatooine by Veynom, on Flickr The Desert Participants: Julien, Seb, David, Ulrich, Hugo and I. We start with the Krayt Dragon made by Julien and Seb. It is under attack by quite a few Tusken. Tusken Raiders by Veynom, on Flickr Tusken Raiders by Veynom, on Flickr Then we have Obi-Wan's hut (from Ulrich) and more desert. The Krayt and the desert by Veynom, on Flickr Obi-Wan's hutt by Veynom, on Flickr The mounted dinosaur (from Hugo), newest equipment of the Empire. Imperial cavalry by Veynom, on Flickr And a bit more desert landscaping. The skeleton tunnel is also from Hugo, while the half hidden skeleton is from me. Obi's hut and the desert by Veynom, on Flickr Imperial Outpost And this is the 2021 edition of my Imperial outpost. Some of you may recognize some of my older MOC being included in it. Imperial base by Veynom, on Flickr Miradors, AT-AT (the one from Raskelnikov), Missile-launcher tank, FLAK tank, troop transport, walkers, you get a bit of everything. Imperial base by Veynom, on Flickr For now, the Empire is still taking prisoners but there is a good probability that it will not last. After all, a good rebel is a dead rebel. Or dying at the very least. Imperial base by Veynom, on Flickr Imperial base by Veynom, on Flickr Imperial base by Veynom, on Flickr Imperial base by Veynom, on Flickr And a small hangar bay with various TIE prototypes to end the layout. Imperial hangar by Veynom, on Flickr After 6 months of online collaboration, 6 hours of assembling, and 2 days of intense satisfaction, we are really happy with the result. We already aim for longer, deeper, higher, nice (heavier) for 2022. Comments welcome!
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Medieval Countryside Layout, which will be part of a Christmas Exhibition at the Salling Department Store, Aarhus, Denmark (in a slightly modified version) late October 2021.
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After upgrading my cliff section in 2023, I felt the need to update as well the entrance of my Imperial base on Desert Wars. Over time, I realise we need to constantly evolve to propose a better experience to the public during exhibitions. So far we change/update/upgrade/add more or less 15-20% of our layout every year. Unfortunately, we face more and more a particular limitation: transport. We already rent vans, but we are considering trucks now... but I digress and let's go back to the topic. So, before we start, what is that base entrance looking like? In the beginning, back in 2019, it was just the desert ending in the base. The base was rather an outpost to be honest. Desert Wars 2019 - Imperial Outpost by Veynom, on Flickr In 2021, a real entrance was built: Imperial base by Veynom, on Flickr Imperial base by Veynom, on Flickr I had recycled 2 watchtowers built for previous uses, added a kind of electric fence and that was it. It did the job. When our train was taking videos (with the embedded GoPro), it looked rather immersive. When we later expanded the layout depth from 4 baseplates to 5 baseplates, the update was rather easy. I recycled an old AT-ST turret on top of a basic tower. Desert Wars 2022 by Veynom, on Flickr Over time, I figured out that the parts used for the fence were far from ideal. They often looked sloppy, and the fence was fragile. The end result looked more and more like a rebel-scum hideout than a disciplined Imperial base to me. As I did not want to end up on Kessel, I had to do something to kill that "cheap" design from 2021, particularly as I had also increased the grey footprint of the base during 2023 while also adding some lights. Here, an picture showing the increased grey area with more and more zones being connected by the road. Desert Wars at night 2023 by Veynom, on Flickr So, what to do? Some ideas came to me while watching Rebels and the episodes with the TIE-Defender secret base. From there, I "only had to". Except there was an additional challenge: the lights. I wanted lights all along the wall and highlights some details but providing power when using the MILS system is not so easy, particularly as I don't want to spend additional setup time in connecting wires. But enough blabla, and let's see the new stuff. Here, you can see both the old and the upgrade, side by side. Upgraded Base Entrance by Veynom, on Flickr Upgraded Base Entrance by Veynom, on Flickr So, I start with a ion canon, thick reinforced walls with red LEDs and a new design for the watchtower. For these towers, I even replaced the rocky metaparts by some speederbike hangars, and a few lights. Speeder bike tiny hangar by Veynom, on Flickr The tower close to the public side is open on 2 sides, allowing to view and enjoy a small maintenance hangar. Note the speeder bikes are those from 1999 ... they also do the job. Imperial field maintenance bay by Veynom, on Flickr Imperial field maintenance bay by Veynom, on Flickr Imperial field maintenance bay by Veynom, on Flickr Both towers were completed and kept the same size at the bottom (16x16) and the same height (to fit in the transport crate). But otherwise, they are more detailed, fit better with the base and the Imperial style. Gone is the WW2 look and feel. Welcome the Empire. As a side story, during the BrickMania Antwerp event in 2023, a reseller offered us some freebies because he likes our layout. We received a handful of custom Gatling-like machine guns. To thank them, I made a mini kind of brickfilm. Hope you will like it. (It also contains another teaser ...). Just click on the black square. New Weapon for Desert Wars by Veynom, on Flickr And I got it ready for last weekend ... more pictures will come. But here is already a video of Desert Wars 2024. https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4kgTMBLwoh/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
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In this second episode of the series, we present our MOC “Royal Customs House / Toldboden”, which has been completed with illumination from Light My Bricks as well as some interior and exterior detailing. Our MOC is based on a real-world location (Toldboden in Aarhus, Denmark). The basement in the left side is now home to a pack of rats, which has attracted the area's cats. In the other side , the basement is haunted, so "Ghostbusters" have made their way past Toldboden to get things under control. More details in the video:
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The 709.600 studs foundation of our LEGO layout is finished, and the first part of the layout is now completed. The central part of the finished section is based on our previous MOC "Møllestien", which depicts a real world location (Møllestien in Aarhus, Denmark). The MOC has previously been on display at the Christmas Exhibition at the local department store Salling, but has has now been modified and integrated into our own layout. In our new version, Møllestien is surrounded by train tracks and landscaping, and all houses are illuminated by LEDs from Light My Bricks. Compared to the original version, four additional houses have been added, covering the posts for the upper level of the layout. As shown in the video, the full layout consists of three levels. Everything is built in LEGO - including the posts for the upper levels and the upper levels themselves. A lot of technic elements were built into posts and upper levels to provide strength and stiffness, so that heavy MOCs can be added without risk of collapse. More details in the video: Pictures:
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Hello fellow fans. This is my final update to my ninjago layout. Instead of uploading picture I want to rather share the blog post I wrote on it as I also have my opinions on there. Here is a link http://legovincent.blogspot.de/2016/03/lego-ninjago-layout-final-update-for-now.html Comments mean a lot, positive or negative though please keep them civil :) I know you can see my amateur attempts MOC attempt but I did try my best with my current resources and bricks. I am a creative person yet MOC is something I rarely tried recently. Not because I love it old school after instructions, but because time and motivation are a factor I have no masterpiece here and when I look at what other people, even younger people come up with I get blown away. But lego is lego and the community has always been nice, so I hope that some people find what I did interesting. Finally, thank you to the people who have commented on my previous posts and gave me tips, I took them into consideration and tried my best. Thank you for taking the time to read this and I will see you around :) Vincent.
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Hello fellow fans :) A while ago I posted a topic where I showed my Lego layout I had planned for Ninjago. It sucked but now I have decided to use all of the table for the layout so here is an image of what it looks like right now. Ninjago Layout 1 by Vincent ST, auf Flickr[/img] Thank you for checking this out. I can post more in the future. Thank you for reading :)
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The first pictures of BoBS promoted on Lego Fan Events start hitting BOBS, time to co-ordinate our efforts and make a list so you can enjoy past expositions! Events in gold are events with a lot of BoBs participants, some of them even coming from abroad! Do you want to put an event on the list? Comment in this topic and I'll put the event and the participants on the list. Interested in participating in an event? Comment here and I'll put you on the list. Upcomming Events Brickmania Limburg 2016 (Belgium) Also called: BML When: 27 & 28 august 2016 Where: Houthalen-Helchteren, Belgium (not far from Maastricht and the German Border) Organiser BoBs lay-out: Maxim I Participants: Maxim I, Belgium (Esl) Sebeus I, Belgium (Ole) Kabel, Germany (Esl) TitusV, Belgium (ESL) Captain Greenhair (ESL) [*]Status: registration closed [*]Website: www.belug.be Skaerbaek Fan Weekend 2016 (Denmark) Also called: LFW, Skaerbaek When: 24 & 25 september 2016 Where: Skaerbaek, Denmark Organiser BoBs lay-out: Maxim I Participants: Maxim I, Belgium (Esl) ??? Come on people! [*]Status: open, registration will start 1st of April Brickmania Antwerpen 2016 (Belgium) Also called: BMA When: 12 & 13 november 2016 Where: Antwerp, Belgium (2h drive from Amsterdam, 2h30 drive from Cologne, 3h drive from Paris ) Organiser BoBs lay-out: Maxim I Goal: A 84 square meter Pirate lay-out Participants: Captain Braunsfeld, Germany (Esl) Captain Green Hair, Netherlands (Esl) Imperial Shipyards, Germany Kabel, Germany (Esl) Legostone, Germany (Esl) Maxim I, Belgium (Esl) Pimbo, Netherlands (Cor) Sebeus I., Belgium (Ole) Tomsche, Belgium (Cor) TitusV, Belgium (Esl) Bonaparte, Belgium => ? Ecclesiastes, Netherlands => ? Lord Vladivus, England (Cor) => ? Faladrin, France => ? And a few Belug-members adding to the lay-out [*]Status: open, registration started [*]Website: www.belug.be more events to be announced! Past Events (the deeplink takes you to the topic of the event that has been posted in EB or outside EB, full with pictures) Brick Tricks 2016 (6 & 7 february, Tielt, Belgium) with Maxim I & Captain Greenhair [*]Rails in the Rockies 2016 (around 15 february, Estes Park, Colorado, USA) with Vedauwoo [*]Oakwood Retirement Home Lego Family event (9 april, Madison, Wisconsin, USA) with Phred & Andrew [*]Brickmania Wetteren 2016 (9 & 10 april, Wetteren, Belgium) with Maxim I, TitusV, Tomsche, Sebeus, Peter G. & LJ Hornblower
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