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Let's start 2025 with yet another Imperial ship! My ever-growing Nanofig-scale collection gets a new model: the very sleek Imperial Gozanti Cruiser from Rebels. This build was painstakingly modeled to the most accurate reference material I could find. It features all the details of the original design: shield projectors, narrow viewport, symmetrical upper and ventral turrets, sensor array, tapered engines and wings... The docking clamps on the underside can hold four TIE fighters I made for display, or two of my Midi AT-ATs, which are now updated and fully compatible with the Gozanti. All models are at the same Nanofigure scale. The very organic shape of the whole upper section required a precise combination of angled panels in order to achieve a continuous, natural curve. This really felt like designing a fish, reproducing that "elongated teardrop" shape. You'd think making a fish out of Lego was challenging enough... the wings of the ship had to not only be compact but also have a slight inwards taper. On top of that, they had to hold the weight of two AT-ATs. All these things were achieved thanks to a thin and sturdy technic structure. This build also has detachable landing gear, and comes with two different stands: a short stand, ideal for displaying the Gozanti solely or with TIEs attached, and a beefier, taller stand to show it carrying two AT-ATs in mid-air. Badass. At 55cm in length and made of about 3,000 parts, it's still a slim model that can fit pretty much anywhere in your Lego room. Once mounted on its tall stand with two AT-ATs though, it becomes a fairly impressive display piece, with more than 5,300 parts in total. ► Instructions for the Gozanti are available at BrickVault! More pictures on my Flickr page.

She's done. It took a bit more time than I thought. I was a bit slow to get back to her after she missed out on BDP approval. But the new design is significantly better. Back angle. Much cleaner. Forgive the missing parts/mismatched colors. Here's the cloth conversion proof. Th square sail is unfortunately a custom (reasoning is below). The good news is that it is the same dimensions as the square sail from the Eldorado cutter. This means with some recoloring and a little crafting, you can easily convert it to a merchant or imperial vessel. Just about everything that bothered me about the build has been fixed except the following: 1) The brickbuilt gaff sail's connection has some stress and is likely illegal. To me, the simplicity of the design and the angle of the gaff are more important than a little stress on a technic 4 axle. 2) To get the sexy front hull curve without gaps on the outside, I needed to use jumper plates. so there's a little half step offset on the wall behind the ladders. There's probably a way of using some technic technique, but whatever, it's behind muskets, ladders, rigging, and similar color parts, nobody cares. 3) The front cannon has a stud that attaches into a round tile with technic hole. Illegal. 4) I wanted to get the part to lot ratio of 3:1. Couldn't get there. The double build and specialized ship parts killed the dream. Overall price is shockingly good. If you cut the dragon plume, muskets, swords, and make the cannon/swivel black you can hit 10 cents per part before shipping. 5) The curved up aft section. I love them, but it's a stupid number of plates and the bottom part (brown wedge and black wedge plate keel) doesn't attach well to the top part of the section (one 2x3 plate). Thankfully the rest of the attachment holds it into place. The build is solid. A kid could play with it. The back might get lose with rough play, but I'm not worried about a kid picking it up. You can pick the build up by the mast and it holds. but I wish it was more satisfying. 6) Some parts of the instructions need callouts instead of individual pages. Moving them, moved other things. I'm so tired of instructions. I left them in. 7) My original goal was to use a renegade runner style sail plan with no custom pieces, only the fore/aft sails from the Barracuda. There may not be a good way given how small they cut the gaff sail. The gaff is either comically low compared to the fore or ridiculously high compared to the stern. To make matters worse, the zip hoses TLC uses for rigging now are almost too long for this ship. Without a square sail, the rigging is way too high. This forced my hand, there needs to be a custom sail. Perhaps the saddest part is that the OG plan was to do a fore/aft for the sloop, then lengthen the hull and add a square sail for a bluecoat version. Now they'll look too similar. There you have it. She's done. More photos here. Instructions can be found on my rebrickable Thanks for your support! Let me know what you think!

Hi all, I figured that instead of hijacking everyone's threads with similar questions about modulars, to just create one thread where people can ask questions and the like. This way we are not junking up specific topics with questions about multiple modulars. I look forward to the discussion with everyone! ------------------------- :-: For Reference :-: We have had the following: Cafe Corner (CC) Market Street (MS) Green Grocer (GG) Fire Brigade (FB) Grand Emporium (GE) Pet Shop (PS) Town Hall (TH) Palace Cinema (PC) Parisian Restaurant (PR) Detectives Office (DO) Brick Bank (BB) Assembly Square (AS) Downtown Diner (DD) Corner Garage (CG) Bookshop (BS) Police Station (PS) Boutique Hotel (BH) Jazz Club (JC) Natural History Museum (NHM) The unique business's that have come out of those modulars are: Apartment (MS) Apartment (GG) Apartment (PR) Apartment (DO) Apartment (AS) Apartment (CG) Apartment (PS) Art Gallery (BH) Art Studio (PR) Bakery (MS) Bakery (AS) Bank (BB) Barbershop (DO) Book Store (BS) Cafe (CC) Cafe (AS) Dance Studio (AS) Dentist (AS) Department Store (GE) Detectives Office (DO) Diner (DD) Doughnut Shop (PS) Fire House (FB) Flower Shop (AS) Garage (CG) Gas Station (CG) Grocery Store (GG) Gym (DD) Hotel (CC) Hotel (BH) Jazz Club (JC) Laundromat (BB) Movie Theater (PC) Music Store (AS) Natural History Museum (NHM) Pet Store (PS) Photo Studio (AS) Pizzeria (JC) Police Station (PS) Pool Hall (DO) Recording Studio (DD) Restaurant (PR) Tailors Workshop (JC) Town Hall (TH) Town House (PS) Town House (BS) Veterinarian (CG)

Well 2024 LEGO Speed Champions released 2 last cars (F40 & NASCAR) so came time to discuss about 2025. Somewhere in internet I read LEGO go all in F1 cars in 2025. What's your thoughts?

Dear All, after I was sleeping two days over opening a thread on "an idea", I am just doing it: This thread is intended to be a (Mindful) Pub to discuss ideas/projects/wild thinking/just memories/the good ol'days/8 bit/crazy16bit/express printers printing NCC1701/PDP10/11 ... and mostly 8bit computers - controlling LEGO 4.5V/9V/12V/RC/PF/ and yes: PUp devices. Whatever comes to mind. 8bit computers are OLD. Very old. As in: You may think the chemist down the road is old, but that's just peanuts to the age of 8bit computers. We are talking true retro here. C64, Dragon 32, Oric-1, BBC Micro, ZX's, Amstrad CPCs and so on and so forth. I don't know why, but it just never "left" me. When I was 23 years old, my wife (I was studying - well - chemistry) allowed me to buy a Sinclair ZX Spectrum. And it all began. Games never ever interested me (other than cracking the "copy protection" using the disassembled machine code) - it was the hardware. And changing/adding things. Controlling periphery. I graduated with a degree in chemistry though - and all figured out is "true homebrew". It was the world of TTL, CMOS, and ECL ... and the world of 16k x 1bit chips being expensive. Just imagine: The 16k ZX Spectrum I had was ready to be upgraded to 48k. There was also a factory version of the 48k Spectrum. To make that one as cheap as possible, Sinclair used defective 64k x 1bit chips: These chips are organized in 2 banks of 32k. Upon final testing manufacturers as TI and others sold chips with one defective bank to other companies as "32k" chips. Can you believe that? Yes of course. It makes total sense! But today? Never ever. Now, the idea for this thread is: Can we control ancient or even current LEGO electronics with 8bit computers? I am working on: Let a ZX Spectrum talk to an RCX brick. Why? Because. Nothing else. It has remotely to do with LEGO bricks being around since the 1960s - and still clutching - and LEGO electronics officially appearing and disappearing even faster than fashion trends do. You may think: So what. He has the ZX IF1 featuring an RS232 port. Well. The ZX speaks (hardwired = bolted in) 1 start, 8 data, no parity, 1 stop bit. The RCX speaks (again: Hardwired into the UART) 1 start, 8 data, odd parity, 1 stop bit (Challenge 1: Parity change). And then: The LEGO IR serial tower cranks out and sucks in bytes with no protocol at blistering 2400 Baud. The ZX IF1 can't handle that: After receiving 1 byte is pulls down the CTS -> RTS line - allowing one more byte and then think about how to store that (Challenge 2: HW protocol - the tower is totally dumb). Possible solution: Arduino as translator. We'll see. This thread will not be heavily populated, I believe. And it will take time. We are talking 1980s. There are some folks here on EB though who may have something to say ... or maybe not. @dr_spock suggested the title of this thread @Duq repairs old washing machines @zephyr1934 knows how to print NCC1701 on endless paper @UltraViolet likes when an EB topic is derailed because of 8bit computing ... This is it. Don't expect a viral thread. I am old. The cool thing though is: Posting here after ... let's say a year or so of silence will not get the moderators mad, as it is designed to be a repository All the best, Thorsten P.S.: Just for those who were born 2000(+) : k stands for kilo. A 16k x 1 RAM is a chip that holds 16384 bit (0/1). You needed 8 to get 16kByte RAM. Today, a 16G x 8bit DDR3 DIMM module, which holds about 1 million times more bytes, sells for about the same price as 16kByte cost in 1982. In other words: 1 bit then was 1.000.000 times more expensive than 1 bit is now, 40 years later.

Hello everyone and Happy New Year to all!! The most recent post I made about my winter was in 2019 and during this period I have always continued to update it. Since then, the situation has gotten a bit out of hand and the size of the village has practically doubled with lights, sounds and motorized parts. Today I present to you the new winter village 2024 edition. I have, as always, dedicated an album on Flickr and, listen up, a dedicated video on YouTube!!! 20241220_202310 by Alessio Stebel, su Flickr 20241220_202258 by Alessio Stebel, su Flickr 20241229_095444 by Alessio Stebel, su Flickr IMG_7943 by Alessio Stebel, su Flickr IMG_7949 by Alessio Stebel, su Flickr IMG_7946 by Alessio Stebel, su Flickr IMG_7972 by Alessio Stebel, su Flickr 20241229_094949 by Alessio Stebel, su Flickr Here's the complete Flickr gallery: https://www.flickr.com/photos/150506899@N08/albums/72177720322850603/with/54232582491 And here's the link of a detailed Youtube video: I hope you enjoy it Best Wishes and Merry Christmas to all

Hi guys! As some of you may know, I'm a huge off-road fan. I never really saw the potential in on-road, and sometimes found it boring. But then, I watched a few drifting videos and instantly saw the potential to make a LEGO drifter. I got in touch with my friend @N1K0L4, which is an on-road fan and has experience in the field, and sent me a couple of chassis designs. I obviously chose the most overpowered one You can check out N1K0L4's chassis here, and the full rebrickable post here. Now, let's go with the details: Features RWD with 2 BuWizz Motors Steering with a C+ L motor Realistic looking bodywork resembling Ken Block's Hoonitruck All fueled-in with a BuWizz 3.0 unit For me, one of the most important functions is the drivetrain. It's built in a very clever way with the 2 BuWizz motors leaving just enough space for housing the BuWizz 3.0 unit. It's RWD, which isn't true to the real-life counterpart, but N1K0L4 is working on a new version with AWD and it's looking very promising! updates about the AWD version will be made in this topic. To finish it off, the steering was added, using a rack and pinion setup to have as little slack as possible as that's a key factor in mini-racers. It's steered with a C+ L motor as said earlier, with this being my first time using C+ electronics. I have mixed feelings about it, but more on that later. The bodywork was an interesting one. I wanted it to be as accurate as possible to the real deal, but I had to use white mudguards as LEGO for some reason doesn't produce them in black. Still, they didn't spoil too much the body for it to be recognizable, so I'm happy with it. Still, it was somewhat flimsy and would tear to pieces if I hit a jump wrong. Still, N1K0L4 has also addressed this while still making it more accurate. I guess union makes strength For the video, I wanted to use a different setting in comparison to my other videos, as it's a very different model to the previous ones. I chose to go to a skate park, as it had some smooth concrete sections for drifting, and ramps to do some jumps, which is exactly what this model was built for. The model handled excellently in spite it's RWD, although I'm not used to models this fast, so I hit jumps wrong dozens of times. There are some included in the video, but many weren't included, but I'm considering making a bloopers video. How would you guys feel about that? However, the parts didn't like the skate park, as concrete is very abrasive to abs plastic. The splitter was melted and torn to pieces, and the tires lost most of their thread in the process, up to the point where I had to use to sets of them to record the video. I guess I'm a bit of an aggressive driver, but you should be aware of that if you build this model. About the C+ electronics, I'm not fully sold out. They do have some pros, like the more convenient shape of the motors or the faster response, but they show some disadvantages when taken into closer inspection. The steering trim was a pain to get right, and even when that was the case, it still veered ever so slightly to one side. I think it has to do with the fact that the 0 position is digital and not physical. Still, I'm considering using them in future build mostly because of the easier integration, but will probably stick to PF servos for faster models as they return to center more accurately. Feel free to post a comment about what your thoughts are about it, and see you in the next one!

Since many classic sets used lego pieces still available today, I wondered if there were any classic pirates sets that I could build using brand-new pieces from pick-a-brick. Obviously the classic colors and figures are no longer around, but I tried my hand at recreating these three smaller classic sets using only parts available on pick a brick service. Pirate Lookout: The only part I had to substitute for this one was the old style flag for the new style. Price to buy from lego is $8.17. Pirate Lookout by Captian Bubbles, on Flickr Shipwrecked Pirate: For this one I had to change the oar color from red to brown. Price to buy from lego is $6.17 Shipwrecked pirate by Captian Bubbles, on Flickr Smugglers Shanty: This one needed the most changes. The 6x12 plate got swapped for a 6x10, the old style coins swapped for printed tiles, and the boat/oars changed colors. Price to buy from lego is $19.16 smugglers shanty by Captian Bubbles, on Flickr An interesting note is that while the regular bricks and plates are more expensive than bricklink, mini figures and accessories are less expensive. For Shipwrecked Pirate the flag piece is a 1/3rd of the entire price! If one wanted to explore this route it might be advantageous to split things up between the two services.

Here is a project that I have been maturing for 4 years and which finally takes shape from this year, inspired by a french comic strip from Arthur De Pins.. Throughout this topic, you can follow the progress of the project and the WIP. This first post will bring together only the completed games and winks to the universe. For those who do not know Zombillenium, visit Dupuis, the editor of Arthur de Pins (link in french): https://www.dupuis.com/seriebd/zombillenium/3204 Park map: 1. Gretchen and his Mini Cooper S : 2. Carousel with skulls : Great inspiration from those found in the comic strip park, but which I found a bit repetitive, especially this one. 3. "At work !" : Zombillenium - "At work !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr 4. "Cheeeeers..." Zombillenium - "Cheeers... Creepy family photo !" by Stephle59, sur Flickr The family photo, with from left to right: - Sirius Jefferson the skeleton - Aton Noudjemet the mummy - A demon worker like Aurelien Zahner - Francis Von Bloodt the vampire and director of the park - Blaise Canilhac the werewolf and director of human resources - Gretchen Webb the witch 5. Candy shop : Zombillénium - Main Street, Candy shop by Stephle59, sur Flickr To be continued...

Hi, guys! I know that, there is February yet and we're before March release, but let's start new topic! So, at first I want to say that 2023 wave is amazing. New brand, new mudguards, new windscreens! Whoah! And there are my speculation/cars I want to see in Speed Champions 2024: ~ Porsche 911 GT2 RS Clubsport 25 ~ Porsche Taycan ~ Audi e-tron GT ~ BMW M6 ~ BMW M4 GT3 & BMW M3 1991 ~ Ferrari 499p LMH ~ Ford Focus RS 2021 ~ Honda Civic Type R ~ Cadillac LMDH What do you think about my cars? What cars would you like to see? Show your speculation/wishlist.

Hey everybody! After my participation in the 80s challenge on LEGO IDEAS, I submitted ''Bob Ross: Studio & Paintings'' with changes as a product idea. We have nearly 5,000 votes in just over a month! I hope you like it and I will appreciate if you consider supporting it on the LEGO IDEAS website. Feel free to leave feedback or ask questions. :) Project link: https://ideas.lego.com/s/p:55877fc73d204a70855ca159c1a3d941 My creating is an art gallery with Bob Ross his studio from ‘’The Joy of Painting’’ and six famous paintings. You can arrange the art gallery walls by your choise, for example by folding it like a heart. The build is multifunctional, so there is the ability to detach paintings and display them as picture frames, or hang them on a real wall.

Well, hello there! There’s a story behind every Lego build so, please indulge me, and let me tell you ours…. It’s a beautiful seriously wet night here in Australia where I find myself gazing riveted to my computer, with Studio 2.0 open, marvelling at the final depiction of what represents a year’s work between an odd coalition of adult Lego lads. Hovering virtually on the screen in all its three-dimensional splendour is the cumulation of our little brains trust, our version of Henrik Anderson’s 75355 Ultimate Collector’s Series X-Wing Starfighter. Somewhere in Sweden though is the real thing. Our prototype. It sits solidly & gracefully in a professional photographer’s home reportedly receiving the lens love it deserves from his deft touch and eye. More importantly, he’s our team’s test builder, coder and (for all intents and purposes) Lego ‘Sugar Daddy’. I say this with both the full respect and appreciation as a man who barely had to fund this project even a few cents or break any Lego lift arm pieces along the way. For that we can thank this professional photographer. A determined dreamer who both initiated and pushed this venture forward with a maximum amount of swear words in toe and a minimum amount of doubt in hand! And, he’s probably had to fork out enough cash to almost build three different variants of UCS X-Wings along the way! Thanks ‘rde’ you’re a champ! But wait! There’s also a chap quietly celebrating somewhere in Greece. He’s just finished an instruction manual for our build in addition to overseeing the first print run of its sticker sheet. Now, when I say ‘quietly celebrating’ I mean instead rather ‘loudly’ with that measured quality you can sense in someone that betrays the fact that they tend to generally know what they’re doing, why they’re doing it and just how to get it done at the same time. This speaks volumes! He also flies helicopters for a living so you’d hope he’d have all those qualities in abundance otherwise your life insurance premiums would be through the roof! He’s also ‘The Fixer’ and goes by the handle ‘Rilted’. That trickster that finds a solution just when all seems so dark, and your floor is dangerously strewn everywhere with a minefield of Lego pieces that obstructs your path to the bathroom you now so urgently need to use. He’ll find you a safe way there and faster than your bladder can say “Too late!” And then there’s old Aussie me, ‘Aeroeza’. The VFX guy with a penchant for accuracy and tendency to see the tree for the wood and sometimes the wood for a forest full of hungry arborists looking for lunch. I’ll make a meal out of anything ILM jerry-rigged in 1976 and try to build the equivalent in polygons and Lego form however structurally unsound and physically unsafe. That’s a great place to start when you know your ‘back ups’ can both build and fix it no matter the price and broken piece count. Together we formed an international brood of Lego devotees nominally referred to as ‘Gentlemen of the Brick’ a.k.a. GotB. A name mostly chosen because ‘League of Gentlemen’ was already gratefully taken, and ‘League of Extraordinary Gentlemen’, although a good graphic novel is still mostly remembered as just a bad film. Introductions aside, behold our first project! GotB’s UCS X-Wing Starfighter! 75335 Original vs 75355MOD-GotB (excl. minifigs): 1949pcs vs. 2711 pcs 1.80kgs vs. 2.0 kgs 563x443x118mm vs 576x495x112mm (without stand) Well, that’s only a photo of the previous old prototype. The one that worked really well and then we made better…. Turns out ‘rde’ is also a busy responsible dad (not just the ‘sugar’ type) so I can only assume photos of said final prototype promised in my preamble above have been slightly delayed... So instead have a sexy render of the final model! We’ll update with new shots soon…. Is it a MOD or MOC? Hard to say but we think it deserves centre place on your coffee table! Certainly, its external appearance owes much to Henrik Anderson’s original but that was always the point! We didn’t want to reinvent the wheel so much as make it spin faster, have juicer suspension, and enough tyre tread for urban assault expeditions. At the same time though, we wanted our X-Wing to look at home sitting alongside its UCS cousins while honoring the original set and Lego artist that inspired it in the first place. Admittedly there were a few concerns for 75355 out there amongst Adult Fans of Lego that also inspired and galvanized us into getting this project off the ground. Chiefly amongst those was the set being a little too flimsy and somewhat fragile. There were also those who felt its accuracy lacking or even unsettling in critical ways. The nose cone was clearly very stubby for a vehicle inspired by a 70’s dragster car and the front section’s side profile was rendered a bit clumsily using stepped plates that were in dire need of streamlining. The engine intake cowlings also appeared either too big or too small depending on whether you thought the wings were long enough or just too short. The same could be said about the R2’s minifigure scale. And the general greebling, when compared to many other recent UCS models, was also often deemed more ‘creative’ in execution rather than intentionally ‘accurate’. In truth we think Henrik got so much right and with a ton of tricks and wizardry on display for us to enjoy along the way. Where 2012’s 10240 UCS Red Five X-Wing Starfighter had seemed focused on improving choices made for 2000’s 7191 UCS X-Wing Fighter, 75355 proved a radical departure altogether in techniques and design sophistication. It bristles with effective ideas made real for a commercial product and clearly pushed ‘The Bricks’ boundaries further than had been commercially possible before. We really do like it! But it did depart from 10240 in one critical way… The S-Foil. 75355 has a rather snappy, dramatic action when deploying the wings. This is a novel approach and fun alternative to the slow thumbscrew-like turning mechanism the older UCS versions promoted. However, this S-Foil system is perhaps a bit too clever as the action comes at the cost of a more stable platform 10240 generated with its lift arm design. We felt our version needed to restore this lost stability. Which leads me to highlight the heart of our build under all those external similarities. This is a feature very different in approach to the official set but harkens back to the solutions of old. An S-Foil system whose conceptual genesis lies in the form of a MOC designed by an American named…. well for the sake of privacy let’s stick to his Reddit username of Hypodorious. This nifty little 40-tooth gear and worm screw mechanism promised to address some of the concerns regarding 75355 out there. We managed to make it a little more compact, move past its chain link driven mechanism and install cogs for the use of a dependable rear ‘thumbscrew’ to deploy the wings. The result proved a robust and reliable one that was still able to split open to a screen accurate 36-degrees or close without leaving a gap. This proved only the beginning of our journey though… We were also able to expand the internal space found in the engine bays, enough to accommodate two 31mm technic wheels. These directly link the lift arms of the S-Foil through a variety of pins and axels to the technic bricks and plates of the wings, simultaneously providing both stability and a degree of accurate detailing to an area of the build that the official UCS X-Wing’s have consistently overlooked. The wings themselves can droop ever so slightly toward their tip but this is not noticeable when they are in ‘attack position’. When deployed the S-Foil appears a pretty gravity defying construction that closely matches the external appearance of the hero model X-Wing Fighters from Star Wars Episode IV: A New Hope. Our wings have been lengthened by three studs to better match the source material as too the rear of the fuselage by one stud. The lasers have also been corrected. Schematics from the book ‘Star Wars: Rebel Starfighters: Owner’s Manuel Workshop’ were referenced to get these dimensions as close as Lego bricks could get us. It turns out that the width of the engine intakes Henrik designed are perfect when compared to these schematics but, his wings being a bit undersized, confused these proportions. Our new wings resolve this characteristic. Another area we wanted to nail down was the forward section of the model. Getting the front fuselage’s top and side panels to be smooth, angled and gap free has been successfully implemented by several MODs out there and ours is no exception! But it was the front nose cone that really needed to be right. The solution we found took many iterations and additional research to refine but we believe it to be a nose cone worthy of any true 70’s dragster! We had a lot of fun with the rear fuselage’s top panel. The vertically oriented technic 6 x 8 technic bricks with open centre, that provides a framework for our S-Foil system, allowed too for a degree of height differential when mounting the details of the top fuselage panel, making for some subtle ‘greebling’ accuracy to play out. The rear fuselage side panels have also been completely redesigned and are pretty robust. The back panel has similarities to 75355 and the ‘thumbscrew’ integrates nicely here, passing for greebling that is also found on the screen model, just like 7191 and 10240 does. Which brings us to the cockpit. We’ve done our best to scale its details correctly and to utilize every millimetre of space. Control surfaces were incorporated into the side panels of the cockpit and unsightly gaps found in the forward avionics area closed. We even designed additional stickers for placement on these consoles that wonderfully match the style of the official UCS set’s decals. The rear avionics of the cockpit also went through many iterations. In the end it was decided to incorporate a couple of play features at the expanse of a little accuracy. The targeting computer has been kept and can swivel, retract, and angle into a stored position while allowing the canopy to still close. For further information regarding our instructions, parts list and sticker sheet please visit our MOC's page at Rebrickable or our website at jedi.se. May all our UCS X-Wing dreams come true! Cheers all, Aeroeza, rde and Rilted – GotB May 4th 2024 P.S. More images to follow & Happy May Fourth!! UPDATE 1!!!! Allow me to present to you our NEW Directors Cut of GotB’s 75355 UCS X-wing Starfighter... Although these ‘add-ons’ are not critical to the completion of the model found in our main instructions, what we have endeavoured to create with this additional free release is basically a smorgasbord of display choices and optional little ‘extras’ for you to enjoy should you be wanting to push the potential of your X-wing to its absolute limits! Hopefully you’ll find something in our Directors Cut that floats your boat, elevates your heart rate or simply pushes all the right buttons in all the right places because it sure did for us! To begin with we’ve added a couple of additional ‘greebles’ we just had to throw in at the last moment. Our initial build succeeded in keeping much of Henrik Andersen’s DNA intact but there was the odd personal preference we had left out in deference to his build which we’ve now decided to present here for your consideration. Next you will find a modification for properly incorporating Luke into his cockpit. Although not to mini-fig scale we’ve come to appreciate that many AFOL’s would enjoy this UCS with our erstwhile hero at its helm. This MOD wasn’t as straight forward as it sounds but we are ecstatic with the result. Again, not a necessary change but a welcome one for many. But the biggest challenge we set ourselves for you to explore is a display variant of our model with ‘accurate’ and stable landing gear. It seemed only natural for a UCS X-wing to have this capability, especially as we had already hidden a little ‘Easter Egg’ into our build’s cockpit to augment this very display potential. You see, there are already 3L bars in place which can be extended to ‘hold-up’ the canopy much like the pneumatic pistons present in the film’s full-sized cockpit mock-up. What a feature to waste! So how did we go about making our landing gear? Well, let’s make a short story long in the expectation that you’ll enjoy the ride…. There’s a plethora of differences between the original four ILM X-wing models, their pyrotechnic copies, the life-sized soundstage props built, and the off-the-shelf commercial modelling kits used for filming in the ‘Original Trilogy’. That’s not to mention a simplified 3D version found in Star Wars: A New Hope’s ‘Special Edition’ and a whole new era of practical, digital and full-sized assets and props created for the Disney era. Luckily, we had been spoiled for choice when it came to available primary source material with our initial X-wing project regarding the very era of Star Wars that mattered to us the most. First, there were fantastic orthographic blueprints reproduced for the Rebel Starfighters Owners’ Workshop Manual which, as we had come to understand it, are at least in part based on 3D scans of the ‘Red Three’ hero model. Second, but by no means least, were high-resolution images of the hero ‘Red One’ which had only recently become available due to its auctioning in the United States. These all proved an invaluable prize for detailing our X-wing and in understanding the more esoteric oddities of ILM’s masterpiece just when we needed clarity the most. However, there is no equivalent primary source material available for an X-wing’s landing gear. Of course, there are images and scenes from several of the films you can gaze at as well as toys and model kits, BUT no Lucasfilm blueprints existed publicly providing their dimensions or angles for what would truly satisfy our thirst for accuracy beyond Steve Gawley’s initial X-wing blueprints from 1975. And these had long been superseded by what eventually appeared on the silver screen. Furthermore, not only did the original and ‘Sequel Trilogies’ differ in their depiction of both gear and corresponding undercarriage details but even the computer game Star Wars: Squadrons has its own ‘take’ on the look of it all! To be fair, when conceivably supporting the weight of a Lego model that tips the scales at just over two kilograms, some of these takes are more forgiving than others! For instance, the gear found on the full-sized studio prop of the X-wing in Rogue One has less ground clearance to that found on the prop in A New Hope. Also, its front gear’s main strut is strikingly beefy, angled more directly to the ground with a skid constructed to hide a wheel underneath so as the prop could easily be towed around a sound stage. In contrast, the full-sized prop used in ANH sat higher above the ground and being built from less robust light-weight materials, was designed instead to be re-built in situ and then lifted about by crane for a ‘Repulsor’ lift-like effect in the movie. It seemed to us the wisest candidate to base our landing gear on would be that found in the Disney era of Star Wars however the purists in us were compelled to attempt the dimensions found in the original films. After all, it was Luke’s Red Five we were recreating here, and our own ‘love note’ on the subject matter demanded its full pint of blood, sweat and tears! Having made this decision our second problem to solve was to work out the length of the primary, secondary and even tertiary landing gear struts with their respective skids and undercarriage doors from ANH’s full-sized prop. It’s a given that at this scale Lego can only really approximate these, but we still wanted to get as close as feasible and in so doing understand our own margin of error. But how could we maintain our own high standards of reference material for this phase of the project? Well, given none existed, the simple fact of the matter was we just had to make our own…. Time for a little context! Stage H, Shepperton Studios, Surrey England, June 1976. A solitary full-sized X-wing prop has been transported in various parts from Elstree Studios, Hertfordshire where it is then rebuilt beside a full-sized Y-wing. The Y-wing’s starboard engine nacelle is altogether missing but, never-the-less, both constructs prove a convincing facsimile of the draughtsmen’s plans especially after receiving their final dressing from the prop-department. Stage H is the only soundstage both available at that moment in Great Britain and large enough to accommodate Lucas’ vision. The hanger set’s temple columns stand over ten meters tall but still, despite the size of the space, only via the art of filmmaking can a vast fantastical Rebel hanger-bay, and the squadrons of snub fighters it is meant to house, be fashioned convincingly enough for the overwrought, budget conscious production to pull off. Forced perspective, the use of a matte painting and five wooden cutout fighters carted about on shopping trolley wheels complete the illusion. It stands to reason no one on set that day could predict just how iconic a design these two fantasy starfighters would soon become or how much the zeitgeist generated from this film would capture the imagination of so many throughout the decades that followed. And it’s within that blissfully unaware moment that a quick anonymous snapshot was taken of the X-wing prop, levitating gracefully above Stage H’s floor, with a 35-mm camera lens. It turned out that a poor low-resolution digital copy of this snapshot was the best reference for us to use in our particularly geeky mission. Screen grabs of the Rebel hanger scene from our Star Wars Blu-Ray disc collections either did not show the fighter from the best angle or the focal-length of the camera distorted its fuselage too much for our use. Basically, the solution posited by us was to build our own 3D model of an X-wing using the Rebel Starfighters Owners’ Workshop Manuel orthographic plans and then match that as best we could to the photograph. Once done we could generate 3D topology of the gear itself from the overlaid ‘match’ and finally render out new orthographic portraits of an X-wing with its undercarriage doors and landing gear deployed. There could never quite be a perfect overlap between our model and the shot used though as not only did ILM back in the day have rather poor trans-Atlantic communication with the carpenters at Elstree but each had their own take on Steve Gawley’s production blueprints. Throw in some lens distortion and an unknown zoom setting and you end up with quite the challenge! However, those inaccuracies aside, our photogrammetry proved useful enough for the task at hand and we now had our own schematics based directly on primary source material. Judging by the latest measurements cited for the length of an X-wing fighter we could now confidently state just how high the gear held the X-wing above the ground, the dimensions of each skid, the length of each strut and what angle they should ideally be positioned in. Having just solved our second problem it only remained for us to build the damned things in Lego! Did we happen to mention already that the model weighed two kilograms? Okay, well we knew we wanted our landing gear to be modular so as it would be simple enough to swap out and return the model to its flight stand. This sounded like a plan! We did however ponder for a long time on whether to use a base plate or small stand as the primary source of stability for the undercarriage or rely instead solely on a trio of robust gears to support the whole model. Gears alone would be ideal, but we had learned through several iterations of our undercarriage MOCs that the whole thing tended to sag sadly over an hour or two of pained observation. Even the subtle draft of a passing cat added cause for anxiety, promising imminent catastrophic collapse of struts or skids with sudden force and equally bruised aspiration! Weight wasn’t the only obstacle. When it came to pins and bars and such Lego’s building software, Studio 2, wasn’t always as helpful as you might think with its confusing array of connective possibilities and impossibilities. The preponderance of old variant friction pins in our Lego collections was also an early unexpected obstacle when problem solving the build. We quickly learned that only through prototyping with the newest available pieces could we bring reality to a promising Studio 2 hypothesis and then again of course only when the cat wasn’t in the room or had instead found a possum to chase away during the witching hour of a frenzied Lego building night! Only in our wildest dreams did we think we could engineer a solution strong enough to support this UCS without the constant use of a baseplate or stand for stability. But we like to think we got there! We certainly knew we had hit a home run when a solitary rear gear MOC held aloft a 2-kilogram laptop! With the benefit of hindsight, our solution now seems all so obvious. Make each primary and secondary strut reinforce one another, fully weight bearing and firmly connected to the fuselage. Lock the rear primary struts into their skids as though hammering in the foundations of a pier. Remove any sideways give and use friction pins where possible to prevent forward lean. Finally, take no prisoners regarding the strength of the lower forward gear as it will need all the help it can get! All this had to be combined with an eye to accuracy and scale, not to mention our hope to execute it with a degree of pleasing aesthetics which could be in keeping with the colour of the source material and overall style of our X-wing MOD. In the end, regardless of strength, we decided to include an elegant stand to use with the three gear modules. Its purpose though is primarily for long term display and storage. We know the rear gears are as tough as a proverbial tough thing armed with a list of proverbs long enough to startle a hibernating sloth from a cryogenic deep freeze sleep! However, the front gear just might not enjoy the cruel test of time as much as the rear ones will. Don’t get me wrong, it is very strong, especially when combined with its two laptop bearing cousins, but it would be remiss of us to assume it could win every bar brawl that came its way over the length of time it might take for Lego to release another UCS X-wing. Even Rocky Balboa had to call it a day eventually! To make the Landing Gear Stand a bit more useful we threw in a modification for it so that when it wasn’t acting as a walking cane for an aging geriatric MOC it could moonlight as a flight stand that angled the model parallel to its display surface. The centre of gravity of our X-wing MOD is pitch perfect for just such a pose and positions it purposefully for a Death Star trench run. For those of you who dig our landing gear solution but prefer to keep your 75355 UCS X-wing in all its fragile, un-swoosh-able original glory, we’ve designed a conversion kit! So, for a few dollars more and a fist full of extra bricks any 75355 can perch atop our MOC and rest those weary S-foils from their droopy tendencies. But why end there? We thought it prudent to also update our initial instructions based on fabulous feedback and support we’d received from the community over the last two months. This has further strengthened and simplified our build, making it fair to say that this final incarnation of our X-Wing MOD is not only even more solid but also gets a fair number of bonus kudos points for extra swoosh-ability when compared to its namesake! There are also new custom printed stickers, including an updated placard design, offered by our friend Stefan over at CustomStickersGermany. Bonus Tip!! We cunningly used a 1 x 8 rail plate for our greebling on the wing tips so as the wings can be closed flush with the help of a rubber band or a slightly modified paper clip! And that’s it!! This is not only the end of my diatribe but also our first, hopefully not last, project. We would therefore like to shout out a big thanks to folks like hypodorius and ron_mcphatty who have generously shared their ideas with the MOC community. We are also very grateful to mountainridernzl and jmkiska who have contributed directly to the success of this project and really helped us fine tune our processes. It’s done now and with it too an era within our lives that allowed the three of us to pool our talents, hone our art and make new friends…. Gotta love The Brick! Download GotB's 75355 X-wing Starfighter UCS - MOD on Rebrickable. Also, checkout our free Landing Gear MOC and 75355 Upgrade Kit here. Cheers all, Aeroeza, rde and Rilted – GotB September 20th 2024 UPDATE 2!!!!

[Render] Prawn Suit (Subnautica) by Artemiy Karpinskiy, on Flickr The P.R.A.W.N. Suit (Pressure Re-Active Waterproof Nanosuit) (Mk.III) is a powered suit of armor, designed for use in both the deep-sea and space - capable of affording protection to a pilot whilst maintaining maximum dexterity with hydraulic limbs and a reinforced canopy. It is however not directly worn - rather it is a large frame that can be piloted in a seated position. Unlike the other vehicles in Subnautica, the Prawn Suit walks along the ocean floor, only using thrusters to move vertically. Reference image: 1 More shots: 1 2 3 * * * If you like what I do and you want to see me create your OC, a favorite Bionicle Character, or something else, feel free to look up my Commission Info! I also now have a Patreon page, so please consider supporting!

So far I have seen topics on animals, disable minifigures, space sets and a new musical instrument topic. But I have yet to see one on food molds. I love the food molds. My favorite one is the pizza, which has been a staple food piece for ages. Recently, there have been a slew of other food pieces such as fruits, veggies and even bread pieces. But lemme know below what other food molds are out there or even give your ideas. Let's get this discussion up and running.

Hey all, we'd like to present another alternate build from the Lego 42154-1 Ford GT set. This was the best I could do out of the Ford GT! Honestly, I'd just like to hear if you guys liked it :) A 1/12 Scale Technic Ferrari F40. When designing this model, we wanted to preserve the Ferrari's iconic features and looks to make it a worthy replica of the famous sports car. The limited parts available in the Ford GT set proved challenging, making a functional car that looks accurate and performs as a good display piece. I want to say that when designing the model we built it to act as a shelf princess with some extra features.Our Instagram for more photos: InstagramNow let's dive into the features Features: Accurate and detailed F40 V8 Engine (working) RWD Suspension on both front and rear axles (limited in the front) HOG steering Interior with steering wheel and seats Opening doors Accurate F40 exhaust design 1/12 Scale (same scale as Ford GT) Tilting Hood Pop up Headlights A tilting Rear section that exposes the engine, rear suspension and exhaust Full independent suspension

Hello good people of Eurobricks! My build was a finalist in the Lego Ideas "Exhibit Your Creativity in the Lego House" contest. It would mean so much to me if you would vote for my creation at the following link: LEGO IDEAS - Exhibit your creativity in The LEGO House! - Mashup Madness: Medieval Locomotive! Medieval Locomotive! by Water Snap, on Flickr Thank you so much!

My brother and I ( @soccerkid6 ) have been writing quite a few tutorials on techniques we often use in our medieval creations. We will be using this topic to share these designs with all of you, and will keep an index of our tutorials in this first post while also posting new replies as we add new tutorials. Index of tutorials: Curved Thatch Roof Tutorial Corner Thatched Roof Tutorial Technic Rockwork Tutorial Stone Wall Tutorial Tilted Plate Landscape Tutorial Simple Angled Wall Tutorial 8x8 Octagonal Tower Tutorial Irregular Base Tutorial Shingle Roof Tutorial SNOT Stone Wall Tutorial Half-Stud Offset Wooden Wall Tutorial. Basic Arrow Slits Tutorial Turntable Stained Glass Window Tutorial Stone Cottage Wall Tutorial Medieval Hand Cart Tutorial Furniture Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #2 Round Well Tutorial Wagons and Carts Tutorial Snow Tutorial Four Sided Castle Roof Tutorial Simple SNOT and Studs-Up Rockwork Tutorial Wagons and Carts Tutorial #2 Furniture Tutorial #3 Furniture Tutorial #4 Simple Roof Gables Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #5 Middle Eastern Tutorial #1 Furniture Tutorial #6 Tree Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #7 Furniture Tutorial #8 Slanted Rockwork Tutorial 45° Skyrim Roof Tutorial Curving Staircase Tutorial Mixel Joint Tree Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #9 Doors and Gates Tutorial Large Onion Dome Tutorial Mottled Stone Wall Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #10 Flying Carpet Tutorial Stone Bridge Pier Tutorial Turret Roof Tutorial Elegant Fountain Tutorial Hexagon Tower Tutorial Hinge Brick Well Tutorial Semicircle Tower Design Stone Footbridge Tutorial 4x4 Dish Dome Tutorial Podium with Mosaic Tutorial Small Carts Tutorial Stepping SNOT Wall Tutorial Al-Danah Tower Design Small Onion Dome Tutorial Stone and Timber Wall Design Market Stalls Tutorial SNOT Panel Water Tutorial Doors Tutorial #2 Middle Eastern Tutorial #2 Furniture Tutorial #11 Winter Tower Roof Design SNOT Tudor Design 6x6 Octagonal Tower Tutorial Monastery Window and Roof Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #12 Large Round Tower Tutorial Bar and Clip Brickwork Tutorial Window Tutorial Free Floating Cobblestone Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #13 4x4 Roof Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #14 Dormer Roofs Tutorial Footbridge Tutorial #2 SNOT Water Tutorial SNOT Rockwork Base Tutorial Photography and Editing Process Headlight Brick Cobblestone Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #15 Wagons and Carts Tutorial #3 6x6 Elven Roof Tutorial Irregular SNOT Base Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #16 How to Angle Buildings Round Tile Cobblestone Tutorial Wagons and Carts Tutorial #4 Furniture Tutorial #17 Middle Eastern Tower Tutorial Diagonal Tudor Tutorial Fireplace Tutorial Textured wooden wall and window tutorial: Stone archway tutorial: 7 Micro castle tower designs: 4 Pine Tree Designs: 3 Tree Designs: 5 wagon and cart designs: Fireplace Tutorial: We hope you find this thread to be a useful resource for all your medieval creations.

For nearly 100 years, LEGO remains the best-selling toy company in the world. But here's my idea for the future ahead: What should happen if LEGO becomes a publicly-held company for the first time to mark 100 years of it? Well here are several conditions: Before making LEGO a public company, it needs to ensure that the company remains family-run (in a hybrid mode) despite the transition to the company's role from privately-held to publicly-held. LEGO must also ensure that the quality and status of all of its products and franchises, including LEGO Star Wars and LEGO City, will be unaffected by the changes. I think, to me, it is a good idea for The LEGO Group to finally become a publicly-held company at long last but keeping its Danish roots, despite its evolution as the world's much-loved toy company. So i think it is up to LEGO to decide its future and went on to become a publicly-held company in 2032, to coincide with the company's 100th birthday. All those in favour!!

* * * The kingdom had long awaited the king’s return. As he rode through the gates, the people cheered, their hope rekindled. * * * Hello castle fans, The King's Castle was my entry to Bricklink Designer Program Series 5. I have received many kind comments and support, but unfortunately it has not been selected, therefore I decided to make the instructions available here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-193221/_TLG_/kings-castle-the-king-returns It includes many details such as flags, coat or arms, arcades, a brick built gate, plants and even a brick built tree. The building is foldable and in the opened version the rooms and halls are visible. There is a throne hall, a dining hall with a statue, a basement, a kitchen with a masonry oven. All doors work and some walls of the tower house are openable as well to make accessible the king's bedroom, the staircase with the treasure chest and the prison. The set includes 11 minifigures (including the statue) and some animals which provide many playability options. It is built from almost 4000 bricks to make it large and detailed. Unfortunately some parts were not available in the palette (including a minifigure king crown or a saddle), but I am still really satisfied with the result. I hope you enjoy the castle. Many thanks for your support and feedback! Thank for visiting, _TLG_ King's castle - BDP Series 5 - 01 by László Torma, on Flickr King's castle - BDP Series 5 - 02 by László Torma, on Flickr King's castle - BDP Series 5 - 03 by László Torma, on Flickr King's castle - BDP Series 5 - 04 by László Torma, on Flickr King's castle - BDP Series 5 - 05 by László Torma, on Flickr King's castle - BDP Series 5 - 06 by László Torma, on Flickr King's castle - BDP Series 5 - 07 by László Torma, on Flickr King's castle - BDP Series 5 - 08 by László Torma, on Flickr King's castle - BDP Series 5 - 09 by László Torma, on Flickr King's castle - BDP Series 5 - 10 by László Torma, on Flickr

Steve's Hideout (UPDATE) [ENG] This set was originally a redesigned version of the 1795 Imperial Cannon. Then I saw this Classic Pirates challenge and thought I'd enter with the peace of mind of the underdog. I slightly modified the set to fit the callout. I hope you guys like it and vote for it. There is, of course, a golden rod hidden on this island. Story: Steve has been a merchant ship captain for many many years. He has always been reliable and has been the most punctual transporter despite the weather obstacles. He knew the sea perfectly. He survived huge storms, avoided many battles. But today, a new and brutal enemy had struck, and so she could not escape her doom. On one occasion he was on a detour route to port when his ship was shrouded in fog. Knowing the sea, he sailed on and only belatedly realised that this fog was in fact the remnants of a gigantic battle. The multitude of shipwrecks indicated that this was a gigantic battle. The silhouette of a ship was silhouetted in the fog, but before he could identify it, the ship had opened fire. His swift ship tried to dodge, but he had no chance. The incoming cannonballs tore the small ship apart mercilessly. Another volley of shells brought in the fatal shot and the ship was swamped. The only survivor was the captain. For days he was tossed about at sea among the remains of the battle. He pulled himself up on a large piece of wood and left his life in the drift. His great good fortune was to be cast towards a small island. He knew the place. It used to be a small outpost for imperial soldiers. It had been abandoned for a long time, and its condition showed. But his luck had not deserted the captain here, for the remains of the battle were drifting nearby, and he was able to get some rum, food, and weapons. He even found the flag of his ship, which he pinned to the remains of the building to mark this as his territory. Maybe one day a ship will come by and rescue him so he can sail the seas again as he once did. [HUN] Ez a készlet eredetileg a 1795-ös Imperial Cannon újragondolt változata. Aztán láttam ezt a Classic Pirates kihívást, és gondoltam az esélytelenek nyugalmával benevezek. Kicsit átalakítottam a szettet, hogy megfeleljen a kiírásnak. Remélem tetszik majd nektek és szavaztok rá. Természetesen egy aranyrudat azért ez a sziget is rejt. Sztori: Steve egy kereskedő hajó kapitánya volt már sok sok éve. Mindig megbízható volt és az időjárási viszonyok okozta akadályok ellenére is a legpontosabb szállító volt. Tökéletesen ismerte a tengert. Túlélt hatalmas viharokat, elkerült rengeteg csatát. De manapság új és brutális ellenség ütötte fel a fejét és így Ő sem kerülhette el a végzetét. Egyik alkalommal is egy elkerülő útvonalon haladt a kikötő felé, amikor hajója ködbe burkolózott. Mivel ismerte a tengert tovább hajózott és csak késve vette észre, hogy ez a köd valójában egy gigantikus csata maradványa. A hajóroncsok sokasága jelezte, ez egy gigantikus csata volt. Egy hajó sziluettje rajzolódott ki a ködben, de mire azonosítani tudta volna, a hajó már tüzet is nyitott rá. Fürge hajójával megpróbált kitérni ugyan, de esélye sem volt. A becsapódó ágyúgolyók könyörtelenül megtépázták a kis hajót. Egy újabb sortűz pedig bevitte a végzetes lövést és a hajót ellepték a hullámok. Az egyetlen túlélő a kapitány volt. Napokig hánykolódott a tengeren a csata maradványai között. Egy nagyobb fadarabon húzta meg magát és rábízta életét a sodrásra. Hatalmas szerencséjére egy kis sziget felé vetődött. Ismerte ezt a helyet. Régebben a birodalmi katonák egy kis őrhelye volt. Régóta elhagyatott volt már, ez határozottan látszott az állapotán. De a szerencséje itt sem hagyta el a kapitányt, mert a csata maradványai is a közelben sodródtak, így tudott némi rumot, ételt, és fegyvereket szerezni. Még a hajója zászlaját is megtalálta, melyet ki is tűzött az épület maradványaira, hogy jelezze ez már az Ő területe. Talán egyszer majd jár erre egy hajó és megmenti, hogy újra járhassa a tengereket ahogy régen. Yes, I know Steve's outfit has changed, but I have other plans for this version, which is why I was forced to do this. But that doesn't stop him from being Steve!

I think words are a bit redundant here? I got to break a reddish brown brick. It was crispy like bread. I was a little sad because it was a printed brick so I didn't want to throw it away. I instead made this little scene out of it. Have a nice day LEGO folks! LEGO Scene by Christoffer Behrens, on Flickr

During the Clone Wars, Chameleon drois are sent to destroy the Jedi temple on Ilum and the lightsabers crystals housed within. Barriss Offee has just completed the construction of her lightsaber, supervised by Luminara Unduli.

Hello everyone! I would like to apologize if it is not allowed to show our lego’s collection… it is considered as spam may be? Sorry in this case. It includes MOCs (LDD0xx), MODs (xxxx+LDD0xx), Lepin figures ("-F" from "false")... from all the episode films (I-IX), with referenced names from Wookieepedia (https://starwars.fandom.com/wiki/Main_Page). This videos had already existed, but today they have been updated because of the Chistmas adquisitions. The LDD files are available if someone wants any of them, feel free to improve them. I hope you like it!