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BrickController2 is an Android and iOS application that allows you to control your Lego models using a compatible gamepad. It supports the following devices: - SBrick - BuWizz 1-2 - BuWizz 3 (basic support) - Lego Powered-Up devices: Boost, PUP HUB and Technic HUB (or Control+) - PF infrared (on Android devices having infrared emitter). Features: - Multiple profiles for a single creation - Multiple motor (or output) assignment to a single controller event - Different types of devices can be used at the same time - The same motor (or output) can be assigned to multiple controller events - Different joystick characteristic settings - Different button modes: normal button, simple toggle, ping-pong toggle, carousel toggle, ... - Train mode on joysticks - Normal and servo mode for the new Control+ motors - Sequences (like for flashing light) BrickController 2 on the Google Play Store: BrickController2 android BrickController 2 is also available on the Apple App Store. BrickController2 iOS Video tutorial created by @kbalage (many thanks for this): And another great video by @kbalage: Older versions: BrickController Android application. It lets you to control Lego creations via Lego infra-red, SBrick and BuWizz V1 and V2 using any Android compatible game controller: Current version: BrickController 0.6 User guide: BrickController User Guide Minimum system requirement: Android 4.4 and bluetooth low energy support on the phone (or tablet) Video on the older SBrickController application:
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I already planned to open this topic back in March or April, but I got caught up in work and stuff. Recent discussions in the 42129 thread makes me feel that inow is the good time to start it. My vision for this thread is that it will be a directory that contains the PF conversion mods for all of the Control+ sets so far. I have created a few mods myself as well. And I'll try to keep the information organized by updating this first post. If you have any mods, feel free to contribute. This thread can also be the directory for Studio models for the C+ sets, so that anyone with a mod idea can give it a try. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42099 Available PF mods on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-28766/olivierz/4x4-x-treme-off-roader-42099-power-functions-base/#details ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42100 There is currently no PF conversion mod available on Rebrickable. I've designed two PF mods for this set in Studio, but I haven't published yet because I haven't made the mod instruction. They will be published later this year. The mods are: - Full RC PF conversion: This mod replaces two hubs with two PF battery boxes, replaces all motors with 7 L motors, and adds 4 RC receivers. - Motorized PF conversion: Because a big empty box with 7 motors engaged in direct transmission is boring, I want to add something more Technic-ish, more mechanically interesting. This mod removes all hubs and motors for the base, which makes slewing and driving manual, and add 1 PF battery box, 1 L-motor, and a gearbox with 4 multi-directional switches for the functions of the super structure. Thanks efferman for sharing the base 42100 Studio file. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42109 My free mods: - L-motor steer: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-84883/nguyengiangoc/42109-pf-conversion-l-motor-steer/ - Servo-motor steer: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-84884/nguyengiangoc/42109-pf-conversion-servo-motor-steer/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42114 My free mod: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-85933/nguyengiangoc/42114-pf-conversion-servo-motor-steer/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42124 My free mods: - L-motor steer: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-84954/nguyengiangoc/42124-pf-conversion-l-motor-steer/ - Servo-motor steer: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-84955/nguyengiangoc/42124-pf-conversion-servo-motor-steer/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42129 My free mods: - L-motor steer: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-84984/nguyengiangoc/42129-pf-conversion-l-motor-steer/ - Servo-motor steer: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-85004/nguyengiangoc/42129-pf-conversion-servo-motor-steer/#details ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42131 My free mod: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-92919/nguyengiangoc/42131-pf-conversion/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42160 My free mod: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-161275/nguyengiangoc/42160-pf-conversion
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GBC General Discussion
Jim posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Great Ball Contraption (GBC) - General Discussion and Index This is a topic used for GBC general conversation, questions, hints, tips, etc. This first post will be used to maintain an Index of GBCs here on Eurobricks or other websites. Eurobricks topics LEGO GBC 8 + Building Instructions (5 modules - 2 motors) New Akiyuki GBC Instruction Index Other sources Greatballcontraption.com- 1,111 replies
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Hi all, I'd like to show you a little thing I made 6 years ago for my daughter...and then became unused on the shelf since it was "retired" by Duplo trains. It was a sort of DB E69, used to transport frogs and penguins (all made with Lego Basic sets instructions). After she saw the real 7720 she liked the whole set. So I created a newer "clone" of the 7720 locomotive. This weekend I decided to revamp it a bit to make it work again. So I modified the roof, the handrails, the pantograph (which now is very similar to swiss ones) and made it a bit more "studless". The battery car is now blue instead of Yellow. It was - and still is - powered by a Medium PF motor, since it was not Infrared controlled and the standard PF train motor was too fast. Instead of IR receiver, it kept a "vintage" solution to be started. I used the PF lever the same way the 7720 used the red lever on battery box car. The IR receiver can be put inside the battery car if needed. As you can see, I have the same 7720 inverters placed on PF track...and the result is the following (sorry for the video quality, the phone cannot do better than this). The cat likes this "reversing" feature a lot! Next steps: two long two axles wagons resembling the 7720 ones, and the white doors on blue wagon created in SNOT mode (or a simple sticker, if I fail ) It is a silly train, but I hope you like it!
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So I know that, in this forum, most of you are concerned with mobile models that require a battery to use, but I also figured this would be the best forum to ask these questions as the people here seem more likely to know about stuff like this. In order to not have to build around a battery box, I've been using 9v batteries and one of these: And it occurred to me that, for my table top PF builds (in this case a track switcher for trains, or an elevator in a building), I could have an AC power adapter wired to a PF connector. So I'd buy a PF extension, cut it in half, and connect it to these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPQZ4EE/ (female adapter cables) and https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B012VQ5A7S/ (9v DC Adapter, 1000mA with 5 male plugs) I could instead get a 500mA adapter, but I figure AAA are 1000mA, and have been using the AAA battery box).
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What's your opinion on Power Functions 2.0, and the potential that we may or may not have a separate receiver unit for the new system? Do you want a separate receiver unit like what we have currently, or do you want a combo unit composing of both a receiver unit and a battery box? Also, how important is a separate receiver unit to you? (Shoot. It appears the poll isn't working.) My personal opinion is the following. 1: Sort of. 2: Sort of. 3: Sort of necessary.
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Hi all, since 7777 book came out, I've always wanted to integrate Trains and Technic worlds. Back in the 80's the problem was the complete lack of train wheels with a Technic axle hole. It was solved with RC trains a lot of years later. Therefore, I can convert a 9v train to PF without too many problems (aesthetically speaking). But for 12V trains it is different. Wheels are made in a specific way, they have the hole for connecting rods, they're more "fat" than RC/PF wheels. Frankly, I do not like 12V trains converted to 9V/PF standard bogies. But I like the PF motor, its speed, the possibility to increase speed gradually...and the fact it keeps the central hole for third wheel. So, in these years I repaired a lot of 12V motors...and some were really in bad shape. Look at the right wheel, it is completely destroyed inside. So I decided to try to implement my solution to connect standard, intact 12V wheels to technic axleholes (which I do not list here, since it was not satisfying). First, I got a standard Technic bush, and cut it a bit. Then I put it inside the damaged wheel hole. It fits fine, but needs to be glued. Once glued, it is time for some testing. The 6-long axle goes right in - but the red ring coming out from the wheel is too thick. So I prepared another wheel (gray bush). This time I cut the bush a bit shorter and fits right. The 5.5 axle is perfect , so I'll need to cut two 6-long axles to the right lenght. And this is the result - this is my 7740 no°3, totally converted to PF. It works fine, but as you all can imagine, it is all made by hand and bushes are not machinery-centered. Therefore the locomotive is not stable as I would like. For the moment, better than nothing!
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Hi Everyone, I have a pretty heavy model that I would like to put on treads. The final model will probably weigh something around 12-15kg. The model is also supposed to move at a certain speed (around 10cm per second). As a result I think I will need to combine several PF XL motors to get the necessary torque and speed. In my opinion I have 2 options: Option 1: Adders + Subtractor I would connect several PF XL motors via adders for torque and then a subtractor for steering. I think I would need to heavily (9:1) gear up each motor before the differentials because the small 12 tooth bevel gears in the differentials (for adders and subtractor) don't handle torque very well. So I would first gear up and then, behind the subtractor gear down, so that I get more torque again. Advantage: Model can go straight (thanks to the subtractor); No hard-coupling (motors won't suffer) Disadvantage: A lot of power from the motors gets lost because there are so many gears. I'm not sure how fast lego gears and axles can spin for a long time without breaking (PF XL motor 200rpm with 9:1 gear up = 1800rpm) Option 2: Several PF XL motors on each tread I would have multiple sprocket wheals for each tread that is driven by a PF XL motor. Advantage: Simpler construction; less power loss Disadvantage: Hard-coupled motors (coupled through the tread links); model never goes straight because all motors won't turn at exactly the same speed. My question is, do any of you have experience with very heavy treaded models? What's the best way to drive them? (so that they can go straight) How many PF XL motors would I roughly need for a 12-15kg model? Thanks for your help and let me know if my description of the problem doesn't make sense :)
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Edit, repaired post. Wow, how far i have come... **WARNING LONG POST** One of my largest creations yet: the Mobile Crawler Trencher! My goals: Reliable, kid friendly structure Easily carried Battery and motor (AA and M motor) Tracked, very slow and powerful Clutch gear (24z) and a reversible gearbox. Kid friendly speed, not enough to hurt (it makes it easy to stop, so it wont trench any hard things) Easily removable battery I am happy to say, all goals were accomplished. I believe 3 full days were spent constructing it, then i tinkered to get it just right. I got three opinions on it, all were positive so far, i hope you enjoy looking or commenting on it. I will not post a picture of any other trenchers, because i didn't take much inspiration from them. The features: Motorized: 2 function, reversible gearbox Driving tracks (forward only (1:15 gears) Bucket trenching spikes + sifters M motor geared 1:3 through a clutch gear (24z) Others: Guardrails Driver area (Left side) Lifting or lowering the bucket wheel Well, now the interesting part of all. Easily seen operator areas. Control area. Battery removal and reversible gearbox. Enjoy your day, or post away!
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Hello everyone Today I will show you my new creation, security camera. This is a little different creation. It is build from 99% Lego bricks. Only non Lego part are phone (Sony Xperia S), camera (Sony HDR AZ-1) and batteries. Camera is powered by 2 M motor, one for rotation and one for tilt. Phone and camera are connected via Wi-Fi. VIDEO:
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Hi to all, Here is a short video of the last event I participate with All spanish replicas of Renfe from Aitoruco and myself. 2 diferent loops with r104 custom curves (printed by blastem), 20Bps cable bridge (Designed by Sheppo), R104 trains (designed by Aitoruco and MTRkustoms) and also working narrow gauge (by MTRkustoms) Enjoy it
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Finally getting around to posting some of these... I've been doing a bunch of small projects this year that I don't feel warranty their own thread, so this thread is going to be a home for said small projects. PRR MP54 Some years ago I built a set of PRR P54 coaches to go with my PRR T1. At the time I thought a fun future project would be to convert the cars to MP54 spec - the EMU version of the same car. Well, the future is now! Over the past few years I've been trying to build trains using all of various the LEGO motors, and the PF train motor was still on my hit list. I don't like the PF train motor that much because it doesn't have any low-speed torque, and the wheel spacing hasn't been correct for anything I've made so far. Recently I remembered about the MP54, and I thought it would be the perfect application - fast and doesn't need a lot of torque. Here is one of the original P54s as built: And here is the MP54 conversion: Of course the main difference is that there is a battery box, receiver, and motor in the MP54, but I've also updated the original model over the years, most noticeably by slowly collecting all the frames and glass. Other minor changes include the addition of headlights and a more vanilla bogie design to match the PF motor frames. Of course you want to see it go: I was really entertained by how fast it goes! Usually I prefer gearing down such that you get more torque and less speed, but watching this zip along is a fun change of pace. The pulling power isn't actually all that bad either, but as expected, you need to be going pretty fast before the PF train motor is generating any torque. One more interesting thing is that I'm actually using BBB wheels on the PF motor instead of the usual tyred wheels. I originally tried with the official wheels, but I due to the low torque I felt like it was really bogging down in the corners, so I tried the BBBs. This is a much smoother configuration, and it doesn't feel like I'm losing all that much grip. It can definitely pull at least the other two P54s and maybe another car or two. Okay, more to come soon. Hopefully.
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I had a long conversation with Roni of BuWizz fame about desirable vehicles used with his invention. Apart from electrifying large Lego technic vehicles, we were thinking about producing a simple and low-part-number vehicle, which can be quickly build and used. Well, this was the intention, however I was not very successful with this. I mean, it's not a problem regarding dimensions etc., but more of a general shape. My cars look like something from another world but not in a good sense. So, please Sariel and other well established builders, perhaps you could just skip this presentation:-) But then I have spotted Mini Mining Truck in 42055 and it seemed cute (perhaps I am a bit biased towards large models but small technic models are generally quite nice and full of features). Therefore I decided to motorized it. At first I've tried with Lego components but found out there is no room. Then I decided to use BuWizz, since allowed a bit smaller footprint. However, the truck kept growing in size. I have motorized the propulsion (I wanted to add the differential, however it kept the truck to slip while navigating rough terrain), steering and raising/lowering the dump. In addition I have also put in some lights, however BuWizz application at this moment does not support switches (hint, hint) so using lights is a bit of a drag. There are several issues I did not addressed properly: single back wheels (not enough room at this scale), not uniform color (lack of parts), cabin missing (I used the space for cables) etc. I have rebuild the d*mn thing at least 10 times but I guess this just speaks about my inability to do great technic job. Nevertheless, the truck moves and it's quite fun to play with. And I guess this is one of the main features.
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Hello everyone. After a very long time, I would like to present you my new creation. Its a BMW vision M power. As you will see later, the vehicle has no special features, since from the very beginning, the idea of building was primarily in the design and form of the car. The idea was of a typical character in the BMW style. A kind of prestigious futuristic retro sports style with recognizable BMW lines. PF components are: - 2 L motors for drive - 1 servo motor for steering with funtcional steering wheel - 1 M motor for 3 speed linear gearbox. It was the worst decision and design in my life for this gearbox.When I built and tested, it all seemed to work wery good.Now it is finished and definitely a total breakdown. After eight months of building this car, I simply do not go all over and repair it all. There is no chance. - 2 V2 recievers - 1 big batery box Some pictures. And my favorite photo. And the video. Thanx for watching. Best regards, Valter
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Question: What do you get, when you cross a tank, with a banana, a scorpion, a V8 engine, and a bunch of stud-shooters? Answer: The Banana Scorpion! Color scheme: Yellow, with some black and grey. Driver: A Big Giant Banana-eating Tiger! (this one) Powered Functions: Drive: Tank tracks - powered by 2x M-motors. (also used for steering) Steering: Tank type skid steering. Engine: A massive V8 - powered by a high speed motor. Wacky function 1: Lifting hull mechanism - powered by M-motor. Wacky function 2: High speed spinning sweeper - powered via V8. Wacky function 3: The ability to tank-wheelie!!! (with some help...) Manual Functions: (aka: weapons) Cannon: A giant cannon mounted on the end of the adjustable scorpion tail. Stud-shooters: Front: 2x six-round, and 2x single-round - Rear: 4x single-round. Spring-shooters: 2x rear-mounted. (can be triggered by driver) The story of how The Banana Scorpion was built:
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Hello everybody and let me present my version of a modified 42005 Monster Truck. It was my second set after my "dark age", that I've bought many years ago, after 42029 as supplementary set with a lot of useful pieces and planned to use for a live axle suspension and some other features for 42029 model. However, I liked the set as a simple and functional model and re-assembled it several times. Here is the model and later I'll provide the all details: A month ago, when I tired of infinite attempts to turn 41999 into a Muscle Car (the chassis isn't rigid enough, but I already did a great progress and hopefully will share it once) I returned to this model and set the task to motorize it adding 4WD, but keeping 4 wheels steering and current suspension (keep the original construction as possible as I can). First, I've analyzed the all existing attempts that I could find over EB, Rebrickable and YouTube and it happens that there were several MODs by different authors: First of all, it's @Splat’s MOD with all steered and driven axles (see topic here). I see no reason to duplicate its description, so let me just note that he saved the necessary features with adding Servo + L-Motor mounted under the hood and trunk. The chassis configuration is 4x4/4 or 4WD-4WS. It’s the best motorized model, I think, because of amazing simplicity and performance, but unfortunately it has a kind of “articulated” steering that isn't real, so was trying to made a "real" 4WD-4WS version, using this model as reference. Another one is Jan Dvorak’s (is he on EB?) MOD with all original features supplemented by on-axle L-Motor that drives the rear wheels and Servo for the 4WS. He added an additional 5X7 frame with differential that provided a necessary rigidness. The chassis configuration is 4x2/4 or RWD-4WS. Personally I don't like such a long axle sub-frame. However I've found a good idea of vertical gears inside the central shaft. The third one is @codefox421's MOD, inspired by Splat’s version, with the original front axle and non-steered custom rear axle with on-axle L-Motor. His custom rear axle, based on two portal hubs, is a quite compact and simple, but has no steering. The chassis configuration is 4x2/2 or RWD-FWS. It looks trial-ready with the portal hubs, but it's nearly impossible to add the steering here, so I got nothing from this model. An unusual @Tommy Styrvoky's MOD with an interesting feature: he modified the front axle, not the rear one, by adding a solid drivetrain with worm gear and on-axle M-Motor, so result is a front-wheels driven Monster Truck with oversized fake engine. The chassis configuration is 4x2/4 or FWD-4WS. Very aggressive! WRRRRR Daniel Wirasantosa’s (is he on EB?) MOD that differs from the previous ones by using of chassis-mounted L-Motor that drives the rear axle (that has a bit low ground clearance due to the 5x7 frame) and, moreover, he used a custom steering shaft that comes directly to the steering rack. The chassis configuration is 4x2/2 or RWD-FWS. Starting this version, I got a more or less defined plan: 4WD with off-axle (chassis-mounted) L-Motor that drives the both axles through the existing “drivetrain” (former steering shaft) and the off-axle Servo that steers the both axles through the custom steering shaft above the driveshaft. There were two more versions: Michael M’s stretched one and LEGOTechnic360’s solid-chassis version with no suspension, but they didn't help me with any new ideas. Nothing personal, guys, if you're reading it, I just had a full and consistent vision of my further MOD: Hull - the original with no changes. Axles geometry - original. I tried to save the all things like the wheels location, suspension mounting points, ground clearance, steering angles (that are even bigger a bit now)… And I still can't believe that made it, after a thousand tries! Suspension - original, with no changes. However I put the hard shock absorbers in the rear end, as the default ones were too weak to keep the BuWizz battery. Wheels - original. I decided to keep the original wheels and tires with no giant crawler ones or even Claas, that are too big even for a Monster Truck. Frame - mostly original, but possibly modified since it will have an L-Motor and Servo mounted above the axles (right under the cargo platform and hood). Drivetrain - it must be the ex-steering shaft that comes through the cardans inside the "big" ball joints to the both axles, connected to the L-Motor via the set of normal and clutch gears. Steering - for the all wheels, like in the original model, but the steering shaft comes above the drive shaft, in parallel with it and can slide a bit while the suspension moves. Enough the words...The most interesting part starts here. Following my plan, the bigger challenge was to modify the original axles - I tried several options, even trial-like with solid axles, but 4WS provides an amazing maneuverability due to big steering angles, so axle diffs are likely vital for such model (solid axles were making a permanent clicking noise in the transmission even with motor stalling sometimes) and I decided to make a fast Monster truck, not a slow crawler with a high torque. The drive train. There you can see how I did it: L-Motor rotates a set of 8T and 16T normal and clutch (required for the steering shaft) gears and then the main horizontal shaft, that were used for steering in the original model. After that the shaft rotates the 12T double bevel gears (ex-pinon gears from the original model), than 20T gears below, single-bevel 20T and the differentials. As result, the gearing ratio is 1:1.667 X 1:1.4 = 1.2334, and provides about ~100 RPM with 15.12 N.cm torque. The wheels connected by a wheel hubs, since I wasn't able to use the universal and CV joints with affordable steering angles, wheels position (I kept exactly the same position as in 42005) and rigidness. The steering. Here you can see the servo (mounted upside down in order to provide more space for the battery block above, steering shaft that goes above the driveshaft, 12T gears (pinions) and 13L racks joined to the wheel hubs. In order to allow the suspension travel, the gears has 1/2L offset from the racks and slides together with the shafts along the mounting points when the suspension compresses. It's a fully legal, but still allowed in LDD and works like a charm! The only mistake that the hubs must be from Claas, but they aren't presented in LDD unfortunately: Just to explain why I used the clutch gears (but with no gearbox actually, ha-ha ), the drive and steering systems intersects so hard, so followed TLG way and used the same solution that they did in the official models (42029, for example) - passed the one through the other. Green is a drive subsystem, blue - steering. The Axles. Here you can see how the steering shaft slides by 0.5L (notice the gap between the 12T black gear and LBG liftarm) - it provides about 1L suspension travel for the both axles. Other images, the story of a modified hull (by Phil), LDD file and instruction in PDF are coming soon...
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Addendum to “Electrify your train switches” Dear all, much has been said and shown about ways to electrify LEGO 9V/PF train switches. Along with the EB electrify your train switches thread and some other posts on EB and elsewhere there hardly is anything interesting to add. But then … as said before, I am just wrapping up more than a decade of years of fun with my train layout. My switch electrification approach is far less driven by achieving “to scale modeling” or “most elegant solutions”, it is governed by “using as many diverse LEGO motors as possible” on a more or less standardized and simple drive base design “using as little parts as possible”. I simply like to make efficient use of the stuff in my LEGO boxes – since there are about 30 switch points on my layout. There are a couple of my personal design lines: Since some areas of the layout are rather “dense”, the footprint of the drive mechanism should be as small as possible A clearance that is a little greater as compared to the original configuration with the manual switch stand installed. The reason is that some of my rolling stock MODs/MOCs have a fairly large “overhang” in curves and thus need some additional clearance when passing switch points The switch drive should not fall apart even after prolonged operation as almost half of my tracks are hidden behind bookshelves and other furniture. No modification of the switch – this means that the force required to throw the switch is often considerable. The rendering below shows one very simple base design for my switch drives. It consists of a couple of Technic as well as plain bricks and plates. The rendering is already 5 years old – time is flying. This particular drive mechanism has one serious disadvantage: Operated with the full torque of the PF motors (e.g. with the PF bang-bang remote #8885) it falls apart after five or so cycles. This issue is rather easily overcome, when the torque of the driving motor is adjusted via power control and pulse timing using a programmable brick as for example an RCX or Scout. It took me ages to figure out how to accomplish that: Adjust the length (e.g. 0.3 s) and the power (on LEGO’s 0 – 7 range) for the motor “on” state. This LDraw file contains all the above varieties; the individual sub models combine to any of the drives shown. (Note that you may need to install the unofficial LDraw library as of 2016 to correctly load the files). Alternatively, paying more careful attention to the original EB switch point electrification thread entry (https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/44821-electify-your-train-switches/&page=3) would have told me that Jonathan uses his NXT to do exactly that – and for long! The switch is thrown by a lever, which fits into the space between the two mounts for the manual switch stand. By small variations of the actual gear configuration, almost all typical LEGO motors can be attached. The geared varieties [e.g., PF M motor (#8883), Technic mini motor (#71427, #43362), Technic motor geared (#47154), or even the Mindstorms MicroScout PBrick (#32344] are driving the lever with none or low additional gearing ratios; the ungeared Technic motor (#2838) requires higher gear ratios to work properly. The advantage of this drive design is the footprint (as measured on the floor, not height!), which is 3(x6) studs for clearance and 5(x6) studs for the base = 8(x6) studs. The picture below shows two MicroScouts on the bridge operating the two switch points on the right. There are light fibers plugged into the MicroScout’s light sensors; these do transmit the VLL code generated by a Scout PBrick (not visible) to control them. MicroScouts operating as “intelligent motors” for switch drives are fun. The “forward/reverse” “switch” is somewhat unique: When the MicroScout is put into “P” mode it pays careful attention to its built-in light sensor. In this mode, the MicroScout understands some VLL (LEGO’s Visible Light Link protocol) commands such as “motor on forward” etc. In other words you can operate the switch using optical signals from a VLL source. The rendering below shows a Scout controller operating 4 MicroScout switch drives. This version of a switch drive has the smallest depth I could come up with to securely operate unmodified switch points: I used that one on my layout here: Here is the link to the LDraw file. In the mean time I have slightly modified the “RailBricks #9 challenge” drive (a number of ingenious train experts have contributed to this one – see the "Challenge reveal" article by Benn Coifman in RailBricks #12, page 37) and reduced the size to 5-wide at the base. This drive never falls apart, regardless how much torque is exerted on the driving axle. The design is simply amazing! I have retrofitted almost all of my switch points with this version. When a MicroScout is operating the drive, it should be oriented such that you can easily get access to the buttons (on/off, select, run). There are several drive versions to attach the MicroScout in such way that is does not interfere with the required clearance on the point and good access to the buttons. Here are some real world examples: This folder contains all LDraw files Best regards, Thorsten
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This is a fully functional prototype of a brick (2 x 4 x 1) that we developed to make it easy to control PF motors with Arduino boards. It has a PF connector on the top to connect the PF motor and a 4PIn cable to connect to the Arduino board; it has 8 anti studs on the bottom to connect it to LEGO bricks. It allows controlling the direction and speed of the PF motors. We tested it with the M-motor, L-motor, XL motor and the train motor. This is the brick in action with an M-motor: Let us know what you think or what you would use it for!
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Hi everyone. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with taking a 9v battery plug and joining it with a PF wire. Just like this MiniZip. Any suggestions, tutorials, or discussion is much appreciated. Thanks.
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Hi all, A little presentation of my LEGO Forwarder named XXL for obvious reasons :) It has been a project in my spare time for some years now and still not finished (probably never will be...) Most basic facts: Weight: 6,7 kilograms Dimensions: 95xx36x50 studs Drive: 8 XL motors + hub reduction Steering: Forced by controlling front left with rear right and the other way around (because of the weight in combination with the huge friction from the wheels) Wheels: From 8466 (4x4 Offroader) Some vids from Youtube: Feel free to comment or ask questions, I´ll try to answer them :)
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From the MTM (MTR Train Mocs) i have the pleasure to present my latest creations This is my first incursión into functional narrow gauge. A challenge for me and pushed by the narrow station of Ponferrada from my colleague Blastem. In this case i tried to represent the most significative material of the steam era of the spanish line from Ponferrada to Villablino the “Ponfeblino Line” and in 6w to be in the same scale from all my standar gauge trains. All this material is fully functional by PF. Thanks to the master Sheepo to help me with the PF wagon. Only him can do it easily to accommodate 2 L motors, 1 Lithium battery and 1 PF receiver. The locomotives PV-1. A small steamer for cargo uses. And with water deposits in both sides of the boiler PV-31. A small locomotive used for passenger services Wagons Cargo. With all PF mechanism to move the whole train Coal wagons . Mail Wagon. Saloon Wagon. First and Second class Wagons. 2 Trains in Ponferrada Station And some comparisions with the original ones. Full gallery Flickr
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Boxcab Shunter Hi guys, I've just finished a new Power Functions boxcab locomotive. I hope you guys like it. It was my first ever Power Functions MOC and I think it came out quite well. Here are the specs length: 16 bricks (with couplings) hight: 11 plates colour: yellow motor: PF train motor battery box: AAA weight: 314,1 gram But without further ado, Here are some pictures of it! Front view side view Motor How I hid the battery box And how I hid the reciever the only problem is that it doesn't have any wagons... And I have zero idea about what to build for it. I thought about some giant boat trailer or a flatbed but I scrapped those ideas. Bye
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Hi all, This is my first post here, I'm not sure if the way I shared my pics works well. I've built a small-scale RC car, based on the 43.2x22ZR tires. My goal was to create a car at that scale, and still have full RC and suspension. The minimum width is determined by the differential and the steering pieces I used. I wanted the back wheels to connect to the rear axle through that double bush, so pulling at the wheels wouldn't mess up the gears in the differential. I have small kids, so the car needs to be sturdy. The result is the work attached. More pics can be found in this album: http://imgur.com/a/dw8jx. The springs I used are a little too soft. Since the car is not finished, this is not yet a big problem for the live axle, but the front already doesn't bounce up all the way because of the weight and position of the servo. I think I'm going to have to replace the grey springs with yellow ones. The steering wheel turns with the servo, but because I used the Arocs-mechanism for steering (no rack), the servo only has to turn a little bit. And this little bit is almost completely lost in the play of the two universal joints. I'm usually quite bad at building bodywork. I think this car should be a mustang-type, because of the current shape of the front, and because I based the rear axle on a Mustang. I've left plenty of opportunities to connect the bodywork, and I plan on making it easily removable. I've yet to think about which of my battery boxes I will use, so that will have some impact on the bodywork as well. Any remarks are appreciated. Filip
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Hey fans! Today I'm gonna to share with your my latest project. This is middle or even small scale American Truck. It's all RC. Also I/m planning to make a white cab for it from suitable parts. HD photos: http://bricksafe.com.../american-truck It has the next functions: XL- motor for driving M - motor for steering M - motor for gear shifting. It has 4 speed Sariel's sequental gearbox M - motor for the pump A Pair of front and a pair of rare lights. Openable doors and hood Pneumatic PTO for the trailer. PLease enjoy the photos, click to enlarge. Video coming soon... Openable hood PTO for pneumatic, Fake Manometer (Air pressure meter), fake lights to light connecting trailer in the dark Now here are some photos with trailer. Loaded and not. As you can see, all wheels in the trailer are simply but suspended. Very expensive loading, though)) - Brothers? - Definitely not
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Dear All, From the MTRkustoms train Factory i have the pleasure to announce my latest MOC, After some Spanish Train MOCs I wanted to make a Steam Locomotive, and I Started with the biggest and more powerful Spanish Steam, the “Santa Fe” 151 (French/Spanish) 2-10-2 (Whyte) This locomotive was able to pull a 450 tons train at 30km/h and a slope of 20mils The most difficult challenge was create a MOC that can run in R104 Blastemtrack, and R40 curves. To get the power I use a 9v dummy motor to pick up energy and 2 L PF Motors inside the boiler attached to the 9v pickup, is not a fast MOC, but is a very powerful Locomotive DIMENSIONS Locomotive length: 45 studs Tender length: 25 studs Total length: 70 studs Height: 9 bricks 7 wide Details To be a complete MOC I made some type of cars, 1 Closed boxcar, 5 open coal cars, and one caboose car. Details These 2 axle wagons have a flex hose coupling to be connected and allow Little turn of the axles. Also the coal wagons have an aperture system for the next project. All the pictures in Flickr Album And a little Video: Enjoy it