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Hi everyone. I’d like to introduce to you my latest MOC: Technic RC Pneumatic Dump Truck. It is on 1:17 scale, weighing in at 4.32kg with just over 5,000 parts. It is loosely inspired by the SinoTruk Howo 8 x 4 Tipper Twin Steer. I would love to get your thoughts & feedback! More pictures on Flickr HERE Instructions: BuWizz, 2.4GHz Feature Summary Powered by 2 x BuWizz 2.0 or 2.4GHz Box. RC Drive 8 x 8. RC Twin Steering. Springless Live Axle Suspension Front & Rear with maximum roll stability. RC Compressor. RC Pneumatic Functions. Tip Dump Bed & Driver Cab independently. Dump Bed Automatic Gate Lock with optional Manual Override. Opening Doors with Spring-Loaded Latch. Foot Pedals (Brake & Accelerator), Signal Levers, Gear Shifter, Air Horn Chain, Ignition Key, opening Glove Compartment. Working In-Line 6 Cylinder Engine (Connected to Drive Shaft) Working Steering Wheel full-time, even when Cab is tipped. Opening Hood, revealing Engine Fan. Adjustable Sun Visors, Mirrors, Windshield Wipers. Technic Figure Compatibility. Locking Feature to secure Dump Bed & Driver Cab to Frame to add rigidity & facilitate ease of model transport. Video Comparison Pictures Locomotion All motorized functions are powered by dual BuWizz 2.0 or 2.4GHz Units integrated into the Cab. The model features RC Drive, with a full 8 x 8 train. Propulsion is delivered by 4 x PF XL Motors, geared down at 2 to 1 with the help of Planetary Hubs. There are no Center Differentials, which ensures that all 4 axles are driven full-time. The drive train is also connected to a (cosmetic) inline 6-cylinder Engine, complete with a fan. With an empty Bed, the weight distribution is closer to the front, which limits the traction on the rear wheels. In practice, the 8 x 8 drive configuration results in much better outdoor & overall performance (particularly over uneven terrain). Individual axle-mounted PF Servo Motors steer the Truck through a Rack & Pinion system, & this is independent of Suspension flex. Axle 1 (forward) has a tighter turning radius than Axle 2. There is a mechanical linkage connecting the system to the Steering Wheel in the Driver Cab with a +/- 167 deg range for a more realistic look. This function remains operational even when the Cab is tipped. Suspension All 4 Axles feature Live Suspension. Both the front & rear wheel sets are connected in tandem, similar to a Walking Beam configuration. By combining traverse & longitudinal pendular levers, articulation is achieved without the use of shock absorbers. This also offers maximum roll stability for high center-of-gravity applications. This idea was inspired by the All Terrain Crane by @Jennifer Clark. Pneumatic System The Pneumatic Circuit uses compressed air to control the pistons that operate the Bed & Driver Cab tipping functions. A Compressor generates pressurized air that is then redirected towards the pistons through corresponding switches. At the heart of the Pneumatic system is the Air Compressor. It is driven by a PF L Motor using 2 Pumps aligned out of phase for smooth flow. Compressed Air is fed to the Pneumatic Switches that control the tipping functions. The model features 2 Pneumatic functions: Tip Driver Cab & Tip Dump Bed. The air supply from the Compressor is redirected through Pneumatic Switches, which in turn control the Pneumatic Pistons that operate the functions. The Switches are activated by PF Servo Motors. With the Compressor turned on to supply airflow, the Servo angle (-90, 0, 90) corresponds to the Switch positions (-1, 0, 1), which then moves the Pneumatic Pistons as (retract, neutral, extend). Full credit to @functionalTechnic for the original RC Pneumatic Servo set-up. The Dump Bed tips at up to 45 deg & has a lifting capacity of 2.5 kg, with a total volume of 3,623 cubic cm. Gate Lock The Dump Bed contains a gravity-based Lever that automatically releases the Gate as soon as tipping begins. Conversely, it is timed to lock the Gate once the Bed is horizontal. An optional pin is included that secures the Lever in position so that it doesn’t release the Gate upon tipping. Driver Cab Details The Driver Cab features functional doors with a spring-loaded mechanical linkage to open & lock them. This mechanism fits in a single stud width & once locked, the door is fully constrained to the Cab. The driver side contains Foot Pedals (Brake & Accelerator), Air Horn, Signals, Ignition Key, Gear Shift Lever. The Windshield Wipers, Mirrors & Sun Visors are all independently adjustable. The Hood on the front opens to reveal a working Engine Fan. Finally, Technic Figure compatibility has been maintained using vintage seats. Admittedly the Technician scale isn’t 100% accurate, but it is never a bad idea to include them. Locking Elements Both the Driver Cab & Dump Bed feature locking mechanisms that reinforce the tipping functions. This is ideal for model transport, where it can be easily lifted from above from any of the sections. Typically, it would be carried from beneath or by holding the front & back. Aftermarket Tires While the standard 62.4 x 20 tires work well, but the RC4WD 1.2” variants have always been preferrable. They are a bit larger & have a more rugged look overall. Due to the weight of the model, the supplied foam inserts were not sufficient for the tires to retain their shape. To overcome this, custom inserts were designed & 3D Printed for the Dirt Grabber option. They consist of symmetrical halves that are joined together on the rim & secured with Technic ½ Pins. The ID features inner shoulders that prevent lateral movement relative to the rim. More Pictures -
Hi everyone, For the past year, I have been working on this MOC, making very slow progress mostly due to a lack of time. About a month ago, I finally reached the point where I considered it finished. It's not perfect and many things can be improved, but I am happy with the current state. Enough to finally make some pictures and a video. The MOC is based on the Manitou TMT 25S. It is a hydraulic forklift, one that hooks on back of trucks, but uses an unusual design. A picture from the original: It also combines some interesting hydraulic functions which I tried to carry over to my model. In the end, this is the list of functions I managed to implement: Manual steering, control placed at the back, behind the cabin - rear wheel goes 360 degree. Pneumatic compressor using an M motor and two pumps Electric switch to control the compressor Pneumatic functions for: Boom elevation Boom Extension Fork control Front outriggers Boom lateral adjustment Initially, my intent was to have an auto switch for the compressor. However, after many trials, I could not calibrate it properly so that enough pressure remained in the circuit to control all functions properly. The switch would not always return in position when the pressure was dropping, making some functions such as raising the boom unusable. So I replaced the assembly with a manual switch which can easily be controlled when air is required. To smooth out the functions, I used an air tank which is hidden below the control valves in the back. Overall, the functions are working well. The main issue is the control of the fork, which really needs better smoother valves to have finer control. Also, since it is pneumatic, It does not maintain its position when elevating or lowering the boom. I could not find a way to do that while keeping the boom extension which is required. So here are the video and pictures. I hope you enjoy it. More pictures are visible on the BrickSafe folder: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Minique85/manitou-tmt-25s -
EDIT: Finished pictures and video: Finished model Finished model Finished model Finished model Finished model Finished model 42053 is very nice set but I cannot justify buying it when I have all the necessary parts in my collection. In the end I tend to be dissapointed by the official sets due to my overexpectations. So I decided to build by own Volvo wheeled excavator. As usually I build in scale to blueprints, this time the setter wasn't wheels as usually, but length of the main cylinders. This is primary to achieve the best movement range of the arm. In the end the wheels 49,5mm fit precisely and the scale is (my usual) 21,5:1. Width is 15 studs like in the set, wheelbase is 15 studs as opposed to 17 studs in set. I want it to have 7 pneumatic features: 1) bucket emptying 2) arm movement 3) + 4) two piece boom 5) cabin lift 6) front blade 7) rear outridges Additional features: 8) front pendular axle, steered by HOG 9) superstructure rotation by knob I started with the arm and 2-piece boom. The bucket is by far the biggest drawback of the build with its poor shape and mounting points. I have considered other buckets (I have all TLG produced) but this is the best out of bad. Maybe I will try to build better one from bricks in the end. Everything in real machine is very thin when translated to my scale so the arm is build from technic bricks, arm is 1 stud wide with some plating on sides for looks. The two section boom was quite a challenge due to width. I started with dual thin cylinders at the base but they struggled to lift the boom when it was in full reach. The whole boom had to fit within 5 studs so the first section is actually 2 studs wide and second section is 3 studs wide. Fortunatelly it is not very visible because it is covered by cylinders. The arm movement range is very similar to real machine, the only angle that is smaller is between booms due to the length of the old pneumatic cylinder. The next step was undercarringe. This was quite difficult as well, mostly rear outridges. The range of movement for small cylinders is very low and it had to fit in very little space. The reach is not perfect but it is acceptable. They are weak as kitten of course, fron blade as well, but I wanted them operated with pneumatics. There is also drawball connector to mount trailer behind the excavator. The front wheels use my usual setup with small hubs for great turning radius and ackerman geometry. The disadvantage in this case is that the wheels are mounted "wrong" way, with the shallow part facing outwards as opposed to rear. I can live with that however, I just cannot build without ackerman anymore. Last thing I have is the cabin. It is also 6 studs wide as in the set and it is quite similar to that one but more detailed. I have added brick build front lights and some greeblings. The roof is supposed to be yellow of course, I don't have the bricks yet. I'm now working on body. WIP - Arm reach WIP Arm folded WIP - Arm reach upper WIP - Arm reach lower WIP - Cabin WIP - Cabin -
So, @Fieldtest requested a device to link two of the large V2 pneumatic actuators together, end to end. this is what I came up with, and it is so potentially helpful that I thought it would be worth sharing in its own topic. Pneumatic Cylinder Connection by Saberwing007, on Flickr It's pretty easy to make, but it was a real pain to figure out, because Lego, in their infinite wisdom, made some of the dimensions not a whole number of studs, which is really odd for them. Thus, this build needed some very illegal connections in order to work and be stiff. I've also got some more construction pics: Step 01 by Saberwing007, on Flickr IMG_20171214_180212047 by Saberwing007, on Flickr Step 03 by Saberwing007, on Flickr There you go, I hope you all find this to be useful. -
Dear fellow LEGO enthusiasts, I am in dire need of some help from you folks who are definitely more knowledgeable than I. In this case, I am needing help with the replication of the RMS Titanic's Reciprocating Engines and Turbine. I am in the midst at the moment of working on the project below, though I have not updated it in a great while due to university work. See this link here for the project thread. But this is a minifig scale project, with every door, every window accounted for. This means that in regards to the engines, I am also seeking to make them at least somewhat true to scale and able to work as intended. Obviously this is a big job of some top notch Edwardian-era engineering, but I am hoping that there might be some out there not as technically-challenged (pun totally intended) as I am, willing to help me get this part of the project off the ground. Some of the features I I am looking for include a fully air-powered system, where the air supply would come from tanks hidden in the mock-boilers, that are then funneled at somewhat high pressure to the Triple Recip. Engines, which means that the pressure would go down as it goes through each cylinder (HP, IP, then two LPs). The leftover air at a much lower pressure then goes to a junction that can either go to the Parson's Turbine at what was historically 4 psi, or can go directly to the condensers. With the latter I intend just to make the outside of it and hide inside some custom compressors like this. That would then return to the original air supply. With this I am hoping that I will have a self-supplying system with ideally no more than 5% leakage, or enough compressors that leaks are compensated for. WIth the Parson's Turbine, that can be an accurate shell with whatever is needed inside to include a working turbine, and probably with an gearbox and ascending set of gear ratios to give it the necessary torque. These engines and turbine are meant to actually turn the propellers, perhaps even in water! Some other features would include a replica of the Brown-type reversing engine on the side of each of the Recip engines, making it so that the Stevenson-type eccentrics can change the direction of rotation. Considering the scale, the reversing engine doesn't technically have to be much more than a slightly-hidden piston that does the required job, but any more realism doesn't hurt. If something like this is possible, please let me know. I am really wanting to continue with this project, and this is a central part of it. But without the pieces in front of me instead of on a computer screen, what little I know of engineering definitely doesn't help without that tactile interaction. Thanks for your time, and I look forward to your replies! If it is possible, then I can follow up with the intended dimensions. Here are some references for any that wants some: View of turbine and condensers through wall from main engines rotor shaft model of port-side recip. engine overall basic view path of the steam of original, pressurized air for mine -
Hi all pneumatic lovers! I got a kit of pneumatics a while ago, but haven't fully used them. Today is the day I show where they are headed. This is built to teach other people about excavators and pneumatics. Pneumatic pump (exhaust pipe) Pneumatic arm lift (2x11) Pneumatic dipper & curl (1x11) Cabin Access to hoses Tracks Spinning turntable (infinite rotation) Hope you like it as much as i do, and here is a hand drawn sketch I Made specifically for it. before you ask, yes i reprinted it. Who doesn't want the original. And now the model: Panel removed: Reach capability: Love it or hate it, i would enjoy to here what you think! -
I would like to share my latest creation - 8x2 truck with crane. This is the picture that inspired me: I started with cabin and chasis and I was not sure what kind of truck I want in the end. I was sure about one thing - not to make overcomplicated build so 8x4 dump truck was on my mind for most of the time. But then I have seen a website with cranes and the one above is very nice so it was set. I love pneumatics so this was an obvious choice. I have of course took the picture as purely inspirational, this is not meant as exact copy. Features: 3 steered axles, each with different ratio and all of them with ackerman geometry - I just love the small ball joint hubs. 3rd axle drives fake V6 engine (1:3 ratio) cabin with openable doors, openable front grill and it can tilt to reveal engine extendable outridges (6 studs), all operated simultaneously by knob behind the cab and pneumatic foots. They can lift the whole truck but they bend under the weight. 3 section crane with extendable 3rd section and winch. The crane itself is quite powerful, the limit is the winch. Slew is controlled by knob behind the turntable. huge amount of tubbing, almost 3,5 meters IMGP5104 by Ivan Moc IMGP5107 by Ivan Moc IMGP5108 by Ivan Moc IMGP5111 by Ivan Moc IMGP5112 by Ivan Moc IMGP5114 by Ivan Moc IMGP5115 by Ivan Moc IMGP5116 by Ivan Moc
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NEWS of 12-11-2017: I have been invited by Ropa Maschinenbau, to join them at Agritechnica in Hannover Germany with my Ropa Maus 5, and my Ropa EuroTiger 4 XL, the coming Thursday and Friday the 16-17. in Hall 25, Stand G14. Come and have a look if you plan to visit this exhibition. Hi Guys, long time no see. Bondemand Clausen is back with some farming equipment. It is a Ropa Maus 5, which is used for cleaning and loading sugarbeets onto trucks or tractor wagons. This MOC is build in Scale 1:16, weighs 8 kilo. It has been presented at Lego World 2017, Copenhagen, and Skaerbaek Fanweekend 2017. First pictures shows the Machine in transport position. Unfolded and ready to work. It has 23 motors, 13 Servos, 2 XL, 3 L, 4 M and 1 Micro. They are controlled by 6 Sbricks, via Ipad. 10 of the servos controls pneumatic valves, powered by 4 pneumatic pumps. It has 11 pairs of PF LED lights. The real machine the Ropa Maus 4, Cleaning and Loading my Sugarbeets in 2013. -
Hi All, I know, I have unfinished projects enough (published here too), but time for another long-term build. I was lucky enough to find great deal on pneumatic cylinders, and finally I own Claas tires too, these caused to raise the Skidder-particle ppm in my haemodinamics. This is a very old plan of me, basically since I got back from my dark-age with the 8265 in 2009. So this is the plan: http://www.tigercat.com/product/630e-skidder/. I will not build a specific model, but a generous one (610/620/630/632 mixed style), because I am not that much interested in specific models - simply: I love them all (and beside that I am afraid of @M_longer's justifiable criticism ). Finally I found a working design for the grapple with nice range of movement. It has virtual pivot points, and floating cylinder (this is already differs from real-life counterparts), but I wanted to use 1 cylinder only due to tubing - which should be nicely hidden in the boom panels. Some might be not a fan of the Bionicle parts, but I find them right here, and they tend to close properly due the lucky combination of build slack and their pointy-thin design (I might figure out an offset for them, but wasn't successful yet). I made a pure Technic version too, in case. This is how it looks so far (partly built in bricks too - waiting for parts), with Power Puller tires in the model for the scale: Still a very long trip ahead, and I am not fast on building, but I feel passionate, which is a promising sign I guess. Special thanks to: @Lipko for inspiration and for the pneumatic parts in LDD from his majestic Backhoe, @nikolyakov for the beautifully purpose designed and inspiring TC10 entry, @BrickbyBrickTechnic for his 42054 C-model as final motivation, and for Bricklink to make it feasible to emptying my wallet... Every suggestion, criticism for improvement is welcome. -
This MOC is inspired by Tim Cameron's 700HP rig called "ShowTime". A one-off custom built rig made specifically for "Southern style Rock Bouncing" events. These machines are all about insane horsepower, near impossible climbs and pure strength. The chassis design uses over 60m of steel tubing as is often criticized as being ugly and "excessive", but the design is exactly what keeps this rig together after repeated crashes, rolls and torque-driven rock bouncing. The LEGO version is made to closely resemble the original at 1:10. It features a powerful driving and climbing ability from 4 XL motors, geared 1:3. It uses 2 SBricks for control and, just like the original, it includes 4 wheel drive, 4 wheel steering and 4 link suspension. During the outdoor driving, the MOC was very enjoyable to drive. Let's start with the video: Control: 2 SBricks Drive: 4 XL (1 independent motor per wheel) Gearing: 1:3 Steering: 1 Servo (4 wheel steering) Batteries: 2 AAA battery boxes Length: 60 studs Width: 30 studs Height: 28 studs Ground clearance: 6 studs Weight: 1.6kg (with batteries) Tires: Interco IROK 1.55″ from RC4WD The 3'rd party tires gave very good climbing traction over rock and loose dirt. The motors had no problem with torque. It was only the batteries that lost power very quickly with the high drain setup and the cold weather. The suspension could also benefit from harder springs in the front as the center of gravity is placed between the front tires and seats. The tires performed beyond expectation on the climbs, but did put strain on the single servo motor. The tread pattern having grip on the sides also makes them grip the body if there is not enough clearance provided when they reach steering lock position. The biggest challenge in this build were the axles. 4 wheel drive and 4 wheel steering was a requirement, as well as a look that resembled the original. After several attempts to include the motors in the chassis, a compromise was made to have 1 L motor directly driving each wheel. This gave the "compact" look I was looking for but performance was disastrous. After finishing the build, I decided to restart the axles using 1 XL motor per wheel and a portal hub with 1:3 gearing. The results in the end gave good clearance and enough torque to overcome some steep rocky climbs. The most exciting part of the build was the fully tubular body, in red! Since I didn't want to convert the colour scheme to blue, grey or black, I had to find 3'rd party hoses compatible with LEGO. The build ended using 3.5m of hoses, all cut to standard LEGO lengths. All the hose connections as well as the rest of the build was made using 100% LEGO parts. Hope you like it. Feel free to comment or ask questions! Thanks, Mik -
First of all, this is my first post. But I've been looking a long time and are very inspired by sheos RH400 I am working on an excavator with 6 V2 pneumatic pistons for the boom, arm and bucket. And 2 small LA to open the bucket. Same principle as RH400 and other large excavators. So far I have made the valve battery with 3 major LA which opens and closes the valves. But it does not work as intended. So I need ideas for a new valve battery. I hope you can help me with this project. Regards Jonas.
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Hi everyone, I would like to present you my new creation, the Volvo A25d 4x4 remote controlled. The functions and characteristics are: -4x4 drivetrain powered by one XL motor; -Steering is achieved with a medium motor and one small linear actuator; -Tipper bed controlled by pneumatic and compressor by another medium motor; -Full articullated and big ground clearance. I am very happy with the way I found for the mechanism regarding the tipper bed in which it is only required one motor to operate simultaneously and synchronously the compressor and the pneumatic switch. Since there is a differential between the two, when the motor starts, the power goes to the easier side which is the pneumatic switch. When the switch reaches its end, then the power goes to the compressor. The same is true the other way around. This mechanism is realy helpfull when trying to reach dificult and/or distant places from the battery box because you have the advantage of the lenght of the pneumatic tubes. The link to all the images is here: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=558887 Meanwhile, I am editing a short video to show you these functions. I hope you like it. -
Here's my model of a classic Liebherr exavator. I'm not overly happy with it, but my primary goal - full remote control of all pneumatics with a high degree of accuracy - was achieved. Oh, and that custom LED beacon is available here: http://bit.ly/buybeacon Photos & reading: http://sariel.pl/201...atic-excavator/ -
I am in a little bit of a creative lull right now, so I decided I needed to make something small and quick. I very much enjoyed doing the quick build of the 911 I did earlier this year. There was something enjoyable about posting nightly, and watching how something comes together in the course of a week or two. Plus the feedback was enjoyable and contributed to a better MOC. So I decided to do a small tow truck: an International DuraStar. Since I have spent so much money on many pneumatic parts, but find myself decidedly in the Linear Actuator camp, I figured a MOC with pneumatics would be a good challenge. The MOC will feature: Steering Drive Fake motor Winch Crane Crane extension Car lift Final colors will be yellow with blue highlights. Here is the first WIP picture, and more will be posted nightly (roughly). Here we go! -
Hi to everybody! It's been a while from my last MOC...a year and 1 day to be precise ..well, how some of you already knew, the last year I bought and refurbished a home and that involved much of my free time. Now that the home is almost finished (I doubt that it ever will), a baby is coming ...that's mean that I'm planning to do instructions, but I don't know when. Now, that's my new MOC. It's a Dump truck 8x8. The scale is about 1:11. It was inspired by the Iveco Trakker (more than anything else to derive the dimensions), but the front grid ended to be more a beheaded batman logo. It's 8 wheels drive, moved by 4XL Motors connected to the wheels via a driveline, it has a differential per axle. 2 XL Motors drive the 1st and the 2nd axle and the other 2 drive the 3rd and 4th axles. This allow to have a virtual central diff and stress a bit less the drivetrain since the torque is splitted. A fake 6-inline engine is connected to the driveline of the 1st and 2nd axles. The 1st and the 2nd are steering axles via 2 PF Servo motors (one for each axle), with different turning radius and working steering wheel. The suspensions system consists in 4 live axles. Shock absorbers for the 1st and 2nd axles, with an anti-roll bar for the 1st axle, leaf springs for the 3rd and 4th. The Pneumatic system consists in 2 small pump driven by an L motor, that provide compressed air for tilting the cab, elevate the bed and to an hypothetical trailer. The lightening system consist in 4 PF Led, 2 in the front and 2 in the back for the headlights (and 2 extension wires). In the back there is a connector where is possible to connect lights of a trailer. There is even a winch in the front moved by an L Motor. It uses 2 SBrick that control everything, with the exeption of tilting the cab and providing compressed air to the trailer, that are actuated manually. It has openable doors (manually) that allow access to detailed interiors of the cab and it has a trailer coupling. The truck itself is built to be a base for several future MOC/MOD. In fact, tipping bed system a part, everything is contained in the chassis or in the side tanks. Weight and dimensions: Length: 93 studs (74.4 cm) Width: 29 studs (23.2 cm) (without mirrors) Height: 42 studs (33.6 cm) (without antennas) Weight: 6 Kg PF elements: 4 XL Motors for drive. 3 Servo Motors, 2 for steering and 1 for the tipping bed pneumatic valve. 2 L Motors, 1 for the pneumatic pump and 1 for the winch. 4 Led, 2 in the front and 2 in the back. 2 Li-Po battery. 2 SBrick. 4 20cm extension cables. 1 50cm extension cables. Pneumatic elements: 3 new long pneumatic cylinders 2 new small pneumatic pumps 3 pneumatic valves 2 M pneumatic cylinders A video is coming soon For more pics see: https://www.flickr.c...157667401525315 I hope you like it! -
I present to you the "3" wheeled loader. The back wheels act as one, It was an idea spawned from a mix of the Bell 3 wheeled sugarcane loader and BM-VOLVO LM loader, so a three wheeled loader. Took me a little longer to build then I care to admit, because of the lift arms and the not having the hoses kink or bind. It's nothing special as far as build goes. It might look better if I had a little smaller bucket. The truck used for the demonstration is a slightly modified version of grego18's on Rebrickable. More pictures HERE. -
Hi all, always starting from this inspiring discussion... ... @Reker1000000 introduced me to a very particular locomotive: "DB V3201 seems like it would be an interesting starting point for a locomotive to model in 12v style with the red motor..." The locomotive we're speaking about is the DRG V3201, one of the first experiments to upgrade from steam to Diesel engines. In this case, Diesel motors were available , but problem was related to transmitting their power to the wheels. Gears were too weak, Hydraulic transimission was still in development...so the idea was to replace steam with compressed air, therefore maintaining the "old" transmission system (including distribution) used by steamers. In short, it worked this way: DIESEL ENGINE --> COMPRESSOR --> RESERVOIR -->CYLINDERS --> COUPLING RODS --> WHEELS More or less what is seen in some Pneumatic locomotives made in Lego (great stuff!) with electric motors. Well, seems great, but there were many problems related to the heating of compressed air, its cooling (!) and cylinders lubrication - all for maintaining its efficiency. Here's an interesting link! http://www.douglas-self.com/MUSEUM/LOCOLOCO/diesair/diesair.htm All in all - a very complex hybrid system, with many gaps to be solved with engineering "patches". But it's a cool locomotive and making it in 12v style could really be a challenging task. First of all, it's the most asymmetric thing I've ever seen , second - it's a very tormented design - which cannot be captured fully in 12v style, due to lack of parts at the time. It's however a very peculiar locomotive (depicted also in a postal stamp!!!) and it's worth to be tried. Here it is, just out of the shed , helped by a small V60. In reality, this event could not happen, since the V3201 was scrapped many years before the launch of the little shunter, but since we can do whatever we like with our fantasy, I was more optimistic and imagined a restored V3201 ready for some hystorical train! The V3201 is based on the chassis of a BR78, which - luckily - is one of the 12v locomotives I've already tried to create. Therefore, chassis was already prepared and only needed to be adapted to the longer body. This big beast has a quite boxy body, which seems to be made soldering together some parts of cabins, cut from steam locomotives. The central part of the body is sticking a bit out from the overall shape, and this is due to the big submarine diesel and air reservoirs. The main charachteristics are the two big gray radiators, the small windows on the corridor side, and those big stairs. Stairs were a nice thing to replicate, even if these are not the same as in the prototype. I did not use the big train doors, since these did not allow me to recreate the stairs and handrails. In the real thing, the stairs go over the cylinders, so using the 12v standard ones was quite a mess. I replicated them with normal parts. and this was not a problem. I had however to "cut" the stairs in half, the upper one being fixed to the body, while the lower one being part of the bogie (and turning accordingly). With the 12v motor, this design needed to be somehow adapted. On a real 12v motor, the central hole can accept an half Technic pin. Using a normal Techic brick some plates and tiles solved the problem. The ladder is kept in place by the pin and "slides" together with the motor. Between the radiator and the cabin there's a small, virtually transparent door since it's made of a panel full of small holes. The body in reality should be 4-wide in that point. I tried fences, door fences, everything did not fit and SNOTting was quite impossible (for me at least), given the limited parts available. Even Marklin's model is solid in that point, so I concentrated more on having at least a grille pattern. Using the ladder part was not so nice, it was just confusing. I therefore tried the just seen @zephyr1934 technique (thanks to you and Katy!), to have some visible horizontal lines. I used 3794b parts (jumper) . It works also with normal plates, but this is way better. Doors features a possible, even if not used at the time, SNOT for the door hadle, using headlamps bricks. Here's a shot from above, showing the 7-wide central part of the locomotive. As you can see I played a lot with the jumpers parts. And here's the "blind side" of the locomotive there's not so much to say ,being pretty smooth! Apart big red wheels and red motor, 2x1x2 and 1x1x2 black windows are there, just to remember there's some 7730s and 7750s blood inside the veins of this "thing". Here is visible the big radiator... ...and here is visible the smaller one. Looking better at the central headlight you can see some "white stuff" between the bricks - it's the classic 12v light brick with the addition of a small diode. This old trick allows the headlight to be lighten up according to locomotive's direction. Radiator is made by 1x1 plates, trying to replicate the "pattern" of the real thing. I put here red lights in 7777 style, even if these should be white, according to prototype. A brief mention to the Shed - it's an old MOD - I do not sincerely remember if I already presented it here in Eurobricks. It's a 7777 build, converted to a more shed-looking thing. Since I like to replicate dioramas in 12v style, this could be a nice addition to the overall scene. I hope you like it! Thanks again to @Reker1000000 for his inspirational idea! Ciao, Davide -
Hi, I designed a pretty compact inline 3 pneumatic engine: If someone‘s interested, I‘ll consider making instructions. Pascal Here are some pictures: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0nS1bu-NzDFND9IuROoaiSaQw https://bricksafe.com/pages/Paacsl/compact-inline-3-lpe
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Hello everybody! I have been recently thinking about building the V8 WK3 pneumatic engine, from Greek Gecko Workshops. On their page, it says that to get max RPM you need 116 psi, and you need to be able to hook the engine up to an air compressor. Does anybody know how to do this? I have not been able to find any answers. Thanks, LegoBuilder919
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Hello, this is a WIP of my latest moc: a MAN TGS 8X8 leafspring suspended fully RC with autovalve compressor pump! Plus many other features and functions. It also features many attachments, like a Fassi F1950 XP crane fully RC using new pneumatic V2 system! It also has a dumping load bed, a front snow plow (this will be shown later on when completed! The idea is to use the cabin and chassis as a starting base to develop more mocs like the XXL version of the same truck, 3 axle, 4 axle, 5 axle. Functions: - 8X8 driver train driven by 1 L motor - Realistic steering system with levers (plus different angles between 1 and 2 axle) steered by an M motor - Pneumatic compressor with autovalve powered by an L motor - 2 IR receivers that controls the drive, steer, 1 pneumatic switches (in this case used for tipping the bed) and 1 more motor for extra function (in this case used to rotate the crane) More pics here: http://bricksafe.com/pages/TheItalianBrick/fassi-f1950-xp http://bricksafe.com/pages/TheItalianBrick/man-tgs-44.480-8x8 I'll progress I'll take more and better pics. Enjoy what I have so far! And this is the crane, it's also a WIP but so far I'm happy with the result! -
I can finally disassemble this , my first "complex" MOC with instructions. At first I thought to do a specific dumper, a white liebherr, but at the end I did a generic truck because I didn´t want uncommon pieces and I wanted to use less room as I can. Everything is in the vid, is a simple MOC, very tight but simple I think. You can see the construction post here - http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=112319&st=0 . I hope you like it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3BMUcXSgqU&feature=youtu.be '>http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otIHXDS_dS0&feature=youtu.be -
I bought this blue item advertised as "Mini Pump Double Valve" on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/301854575416 It does not seem like a pump to me. It works like an actuated piston. Is the blue cylinder supposed to be a pump? -
Hi guys, can anybody recommend me / point me to a really small pressure regulator based on current PF switch (which cuts off power until pressure drops)... i know the basic principle but my question is mostly for size, SMALLEST possible size because in my MOD i have just very small space left... Thank you in advance!
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Hi everyone I need some help to troubleshoot an issue that I'm having with a Pneumatic Pump. It has a leak, but I don't think that it is the piston or the one-way valve. I think that there may be a tiny hole in the black casing. Please watch this short (2 min) video for details: Has anyone experienced a similar problem, or have a solution? I was thinking that I could use some glue (hot glue / super glue / two-part epoxy) to block the hole, but I didn't want it to seep in and block the air flow completely. I've had this pump for a few years, but I think this is the first time that I have actually used it. If this is a manufacturing defect, do you think Lego would replace it? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks. -
I triying to build the smallest pneumatic machine I can, 8 functions, 4 pneumatic autovalves and 5 motors but I don´t know yet... the fifth motor is just for the gearbox (yellow piece) without it I wouldn´t need a third receptor and in a small machine is a lot of extra room. Now you can see 4 motors, gearbox, 4 autovalves, the shifting mechanism and the outputs for the trasmision, I still have to put the stair and turntable mechanism, 4 pneumatic pumps, battery and 3 receptors with 1 motor or just 2 receptors, I am talking just about the body , I have to build tracks and two arms, normal and frontal type (this one needs the fourth autovalve to open and close it).
