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Well 2024 LEGO Speed Champions released 2 last cars (F40 & NASCAR) so came time to discuss about 2025. Somewhere in internet I read LEGO go all in F1 cars in 2025. What's your thoughts?
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Hi, guys! I know that, there is February yet and we're before March release, but let's start new topic! So, at first I want to say that 2023 wave is amazing. New brand, new mudguards, new windscreens! Whoah! And there are my speculation/cars I want to see in Speed Champions 2024: ~ Porsche 911 GT2 RS Clubsport 25 ~ Porsche Taycan ~ Audi e-tron GT ~ BMW M6 ~ BMW M4 GT3 & BMW M3 1991 ~ Ferrari 499p LMH ~ Ford Focus RS 2021 ~ Honda Civic Type R ~ Cadillac LMDH What do you think about my cars? What cars would you like to see? Show your speculation/wishlist.
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I'm sure like many other builders, I have been enamored with the 15 wide car scale ever since the 42098 Car Transporter came out. I have enjoyed all sorts of little cars by so many different designers, and have made a couple of them myself. The little axle base engines have been fun to see develop in many different applications, and make a great sound. Plus, being not too part intensive makes for a lot of accessible builds. As a longtime Porsche fan, I have longed to MOC some of their cars, but I have not been able to come up with a decent Boxer engine, which is key. @steph77 came up with a nice little design with a 911 designed a while ago, but I wanted another idea. I first came up with a little idea, but it did not save any space from the standard piston parts. And, visually, my eyes were drawn to the crankshaft and mounting, and not to the pistons. But I liked the rotating connectors. So after a little more tinkering, I came up with this: There are three cams on the crankshaft, and an upper pivot for each "piston." Each piston is mounted on the connectors, and swings in and out, as the crankshaft rotates. It's not perfect, but the size is right, and it makes a nice little racket while moving. Naturally, I needed to build a car for the motor. A 911 will happen at sometime, but there are not many Boxsters/Caymans out there, and I have a deep love for both. Also, after building the E30 series last year, I thought another car group would be fun. I stared with a simple mockup, with the engine in place and some other functions, and I like what I had enough to keep going. Steering with HOG is in, as is the rear differential. Then I realized I would need to have a convertible top. This may have been a step too far. I worked on a number of mechanisms using the draft table below. I think this is draft 3 of 8. The top is still not finalized, and might not be for a while. But I have enough of the placement of engine, axles, bodywork, to know the constraints I have for the top. I'll get there, but it may take some time. The idea is to have the HOG on the armrest when the top is down, and manually extended by an axle through the roof when it is up. I tend to build a Studio file when everything is done, but this project is requiring a little more design/redesign, so I have a couple of drafts in Studio now. And this is where the "final" draft currently stands. I'm not sure about the roll bars right now. I love the look, but the part is a little rare. We'll see where this goes. Not everything is working great yet, so if I can't figure it out, maybe I'll just end with only a completed Cayman. I welcome your questions, comments, and insults. -
It's been a while since I posted a personal MOC here, so it's about time to fix that! After the competition we had in Cluj in Romania last year, I decided to make an AWD version for my next competition car and to include the lessons I learned from the Sterrato, Mustang GTEX and others. For this version I used a single BuWizz motor to drive the model, which is realistically placed behind the rear axle. It drives a 28 tooth reinforced differential via a 12 tooth bevel gear from the fast, inner motor axle: Rear differential also drives and axle that in turn drives the normal differential in the front, providing front wheels with power. An L motor steers the front wheel to the maximum angle CV joints can provide, 25°. Exterior is loosely based on the 911 Dakar edition, though some details had to be omitted/recolored due to lack of small panels in white color: I also had to simplify the rear section a bit in order to fit the motor, but it still features details such as LED bar, lights, exhaust and a skid plate: Dimensions: 29 x 12,5 x 8,5 cm Part count: 595 pcs (actually very low for a motorized model at this scale) Weight: 650 grams Thanks to the redesigned front axle which uses the normal diff, I also managed to increase ground clearance to almost a stud, allowing the model to be driven over rough terrain as you can see here: As usual, the LDD file of the model can be downloaded here (remember to update LDD first): https://bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/116-porsche-911-dakar/1 to 16 Dakar 911.lxf While not the fastest or most powerful 1:16 model I've ever built, it sure is one of the, toughest, reliable, robust and simply fun ones to drive so far. To conclude, I'm also really happy with the looks, thankfully Porsches are quite easy to build with Technic and I think it's a good representation. Even kids recognized it as a Porsche while recording the video, which I think is a good sign. -
This is the second mod I have done to Lego's 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS set. I used the same height lift as I used on my previous Porsche mod and moved forward the bottom arms in the front and the rear of the chassis to add negative camber. The car was able to roll without the body on, but once I put it on, it couldn't roll. This means the car is now purely a display model. As much as a JDM fanboy I am, I'm kind of upset with the result of the car not moving, but at least I'm glad that I stanced this car anyways just for the fun of it. Although, quote automotive YouTuber GasKings, the camber angle does seem a bit too much on here like "a baby giraffe taking its first steps." So, what do you think of this mod I have done? Is it CamberGang worthy? I think it looks neat, but I would like to get rid of the camber (and the height lift) so I can roll this car around again. Here's some more pictures of the car I took. Thanks as always for checking this out, and I hope you'll stick around for my next builds. -
I'm new to LDD and it's fun and easy to start with. Trying to design a 911 engine/transmission drivetrain with 5+R gearbox, shift linkage, 4WD and torsion bar suspension.. Which should be closer to the old air-cooled Porsche. Nothing really new and innovate here, just try to combine all the existed thing together. The final build should be slightly smaller than the official 911 RS (42056) -
Here's my replica MOC of 42056 set: Porsche 911 GT3 RS in medium scale You can see many references to original set design and the Power Function system. Check the video: The model has: - PF: 2L, Servo, IRv2, LiPo - Full independent suspension - Floating differential at the rear - Opening doors, bonnet, trunk - Adjustable seats. The car is a pleasure to drive: It is quite fast and manoeuvre. Building Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-12532/paave/porsche-911-gt3-rs/ -
Porsche Carrera GT Specifications Scale 1:8,5 Length 67s / width 29s / height 17s (54/23,5/13,5 cm) Weight: 2500 g Front suspension: independent pushrod Rear Suspension: independent multilink pushrod RWD Functions Driving - 2L Steering - Servo Moving spoiler - M LED headlights Working steering wheel V10 dummy Openable doors, hood, trunk Removable roof – like the original After a longer break I would like to present the Porsche Carrera GT. In my opinion it’s the best Porsche ever made. My nick commits, so I decided to build it ;) Original car was produced in 2004-2007, had V10 engine with power 612KM and the maximum speed at 330km/h. The construction isn’t very complicated. Porsche is driven by 2L motors with ratio 1,4. It eliminates resistance, which would be in the gearbox. Thanks to that the car is quite fast. My first decision was to place the Battery Box in the middle of the model for easy battery replacement. That’s why I had to build the frame a bit different, because in the place where usually were liftarms, now is Battery Box. The spoiler is moved by 2 mini linear actuators driven by M motor. The front and rear suspension is similar to the original one: independent pushrod. It works same as in F1 cars. In front there is also Ackerman geometry. For depreciation I used 2 springs from yellow 6.5L absorbers (in front) and 2 yellow absorbers 6.5L per wheel (in rear). Suspension would have worked a bit better, but it’s imitated by the original, and in the real Porsche all the links are form metal, here are plastic. The steering is really simple – servo, gear 12 and gear rack. I’m generally satisfied with the model, it looks and drives quite good, but the suspension would have worked a bit better ;) Pictures – of course with comparison to 42056 Gallery -
This is Lego's 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS set with some unique rallycross-inspired features I added making it the perfect sports car to drive in the snow. Features Suspension system raised to make the car about two studs higher Wheels and tires from the 42037 Formula Off-Roader Mudflaps LED light bar Front off-road lights Rear bash bars Optional snowplow that attaches to the front The lights are fake and don't turn on, and all of the other lime-colored pieces are from the 42037 set as well. I had a lot of fun making this. I just had to switch of the area of the springs to change the height for the rear without any pieces needed, but for the front, I had to remove the entire Porsche's body to make the lift there using a variety of pieces. Overall, I'm proud that a got the result I wanted, which was making the Porsche 911 GT3 RS higher (so it wouldn't bottom out) and equipping it with off-road features so I could have fun with this set in the winter. It does need to drive in snow only about an inch high so I could move it without getting stuck (and so the plow can move the snow too). I recommend to anyone who has the Porsche set to try these mods out for themselves this winter! Here's some more pictures of the car and a desktop wallpaper that I created wishing everyone at EuroBricks Happy Holidays!
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Hello everyone! As this is my first real topic in this forum after a few years of reading silently, I will say the following about myself: I'm from Germany, just finished the Abitur and I love cars as well as Lego (Technic), especially Porsche, and I will probably start studying mechanical engineering this year. Sooo, this project was a pretty huge thing for me in the last few months. As a huge fan of their cars, when the Lego Porsche was announced I knew I needed it, and got it early this year. When it stood in front of me on the table, finished, I already thought about how awesome it would be to mod the sh*t out of this monster. I started with technical modifications on the gearbox, adding working door knobs, gearing the steering wheel up to have a rotation close to 900°, filling some holes in the body and including Didumos' Ackermann steering mod. After various tries, I kind of rebuilt the chassis for rc use. While the servo was pretty easy to throw in (while it was tight and a perfect fit), the whole gearbox flew out for 4 M-Motors. While at first I had one technic battery box laying on top of the rear suspension cover, I soon changed this solution to having two train bbs in the engine bay. The gear driving the differential which comes from the motors required the fake engine to be moved down as far as it goes, but this gave me the possibility to keep it inside. Next thing to do was the lighting, which I did by using the cables of broken PF motors to connect 10 white 9V LEDS from ebay. I then continued to see something new to be improved everyday and fix this one or that one, until I finally decided (about 2 months ago), that it is time to move on to the real stuff. So i bought RAL 6019 (the green one), RAL 5002 (blue) and RAL 9005 (black), 1200 ml each, and just started spray painting the parts. I did the panels and small parts laying on a metal sheet, rear side first, while I did the liftarms by putting them on a string with the middle hole so they spin when being sprayed. While the most turned out well after the first few rounds of painting, some got pretty ugly when drying, which I fixed by sanding the parts and spraying a thin layer over it. While the parts were still drying and between the paiting rounds I already did the interieur - removing the right seat, changing the seat colour to gray/black, removing the shifter knob, replacing the old dashboard, changing the steering wheel to a more GT3-style-thingy, adding a fore extinguisher and changing the orange cage to black. I also ordered the neon-yellowish headlight bricks, which looks hella awesome at night or even more in twilight. At this point, technical improvements had all been made, I solely focused on asthetics. When I was finished with the colouring, I had to decide how I would do the stickers. After I saw the extremely low prices for custom stickers on websites of printing companies (about 200€), I looked for alternatives. I saw a YT-video with a technique I didn't think of till then which worked surprisingly well. All the stickers on the car are made this way. Finally, a list of all the modifications: - Full RC, 4 M-Motors, 1 Servomotor, 2 Train BB's, 2 IR Receivers with nearly invisible placement that doesn't disturb the looks - steering wheel upgearing - several body fixes - head- and rear lights, neon headlight bricks - spray painted bricks and custom stickers - change of the mounting of the rear shocks so they are more stiff to carry the heavier weight of the engine bay - (still) working and repositioned flat 6 despite the rc mod - interieur, wheel and dashboard changes - new centerlock wheel nut bricks (no RS anymore :D) - carbon fiber covered exhaust pipes, that front thingy panels (no idea what the english word is ^^) and - diffusor - chassis changes to make rc mod possible While these were all my own mods, I also used two mods from other guys: - El Squattore's working door knob mod adapted to the large shocks - Didumos' Ackermann steering, also changed a bit because I was missing a few of the bricks. Man, I can't tell how many times I thought i just threw 200€ into the trash by f***ing up some of the bricks when painting them, but I think in the end it worked out more than just well. :) There's probably a video/car porn coming as soon as I find time and a nice location for it. Anyway, thanks for reading and let me know what you think of this thing!
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My dream Porsche lives in the spirit of the 914 and the 924: A compact, lightweight, mass-market, rear-wheel-drive sports car. It has a long hood, short overhangs, and a roofline that alludes to Porsches of today and yesterday. Much more at thirdwigg.com, and the full Flickr gallery may be seen here. Features: Boxer 4 Engine with optional Boxer 6 Engine Rear Wheel Drive 6 Speed short throw manual transmission Limited slip differential Front short/long arm wishbone Steering geometry (caster, ackerman) Rear short/long arm suspension Tilt steering wheel Opening doors Opening hood Internal roll cage The two engine options And the Chassis Hope you all enjoy, and good luck to all the contestants.
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As soon as I heard about the competition I started working in LDD to make the most functional and realistic representation of the legendary Le Mans racing car. Here's what I wanted to encorporate: - Pushrod suspension - 6 speed sequential gerbox driven by rear wheels - KERS with front wheel drive - Working steering wheel - Detailed V4 engine - Realistic dimensions and looks And this is what I managed to create with my limited amount of bricks: All the functions I wanted to incorporate have been squeezed in this small 1:10 scale 47x18x12 cm model and more! The additional features are: - Opening doors and engine covers - Working lights - Double dual speed KERS gearboxes Here's a gif to give you an idea, just how crammed everything is inside (for some odd reason the battery box and steering M motor were not rendered): And a still picture with various color coded modules: Getting back to the real model at hand, notice the eight working lights: The rear covers can open, exposing the V4 engine and the KERS generator unit: Here you can see the rear suspension and the massive spoiler with integrated lights: I even managed to make some room for the driver's seat and the detailed working steering wheel. The orange arms with towballs are the switching paddles. The yellow handle switches the KERS powered front FWD's gears: Just like in the real one, the batteries are where the co-driver is suppose to sit: And this is how the model would look like if I had all the pieces in correct colors and some custom stickers: Oops, I meant like this And finally here's a short 1 minute video of the model in action: To finish up, this has to be one of my more crammed and densest models to date. Even though its smaller than the 42039 it uses almost twice the number of pieces. This makes the car really stiff and heavy, so driving in the high speed is a bit demanding from the 2 L motors. I also had to use a different than usual approach in the rear suspension, since I wanted the car to be in 1:10 scale. This meant I had to find a way to bring wheels closer together, yet still have drive on both axles. The rear axle uses a live-axle driveline, but the wheels are independently suspended. The front wheel drive uses two 90° gearboxes to power the individual hubs. All in all I am quite happy with it, even though it uses a bit too many different colors. It's one of my prettier models, though it may not be as pretty as the competition. But one thing is sure. It doesnt get more technical and functional than this Oh and before I forget : Oh and one more thing. If you are intrested the LDD file, than please wait for a few days for me to make a video on how-to use LDD in developer mode. The model was made in that mode and cannot be correctly opened in normal mode due to all the collisions.
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Hi there This is my entry for the Rebrick contest Build your dream Lego Technic Porsche The model 906 was build in 1966. Now we are 50 years further, so i thought it would be nice to build a 50 years anniversary edition. My entry of the Rebricks contest: Build you Dream Lego Technic Porsche. The Porsche 906 was originally build in 1966.Exact 50 yesra ago So i thought it will be nice to build the 50 years Anniversary edition. The real 906 had a great front but a very "simple" back . So i figured: why not build the model from the old days, combined with a modern feature on it So heres my creation: The model has • Automatic rearspoiler. (This spoiler rise automaticely when in 5th gear) (Unfortunally i only have the normal batterybox for feeding the servomotor. My plan was to use the rechargable one. That has a speed meter, so that the spoiler will rise slow) • Full independent suspension of all wheels • 5 + R gearbox • Fake boxerengine with moving pistons and airintakes • Bucket seats • Working Handbrake • Opening gull-wing doors and hood • Real steering • Front and rear lights with switch Measuring: L: 48 cm, W: 19,5 cm, H 13 cm More photos coming soon enjoy!
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Hello! Im glad to present my new model for LEGO Technic Porsche contest. I hope it will be published soon at rebrick =) Porsche Carrera GT Features: - 1:10 scale - realistic Carrera GT V10 piston engine in mini scale - full independent suspension - rear wheel drive - HOG steering with working steering wheel - openable door, hood and trunk - rising rear spoiler Video below shows some of these functions. I recorded very simple video just for the contest, without any titles and sounds. -
This topic was updated with new movie: Hello! Sorry, it's one more Porsche :) It was very busy month but I’ve finished it :) I’m glad to present my Porsche contest model OTR-666 – Off-road & Track Race with 6x6 All-Wheel Drive, 6x6 All-Wheel Steering, two-stage gearbox and adjustable clearance. Dimensions: 58 x 25 x 17 cm Clearance: 3.5 cm (yes – 3.5 cm) Weight – 2.1 kg Propulsion: 2 x XL motors Steering: 2 x Servo-motors, front and rear independent Gear shifter: M-motor, 1:1 and 1:3 ratios with central differential gear Clearance adjustment: M-motor + pneumatic valve + air tank Short video demonstration: Photos in high resolution you can find on my Flickr page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/141718063@N06/albums/72157671430854875 Thanks for watching! -
Hello, this is my entry - Porsche 914. My model has flat four-cylinder engine, realistic rear suspension with trailing arms and double wishbone front suspension, openable: hood (with prop), trunk (in which the roof is stored) and doors (with fixation), and also very nice seats, adjustable working steering wheel, sun visors (which are also parts of the roof) and rising headlights (controls from passenger compartment). Roof in the trunk With roof Interior Rear supension and flat engine My favorite feature - rising headlights:) I hope you like it, more photos on my flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/139343351@N04/ -
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The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. The following summarizes what has been included concerning the gear shifting mechanism: I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). The following summarizes what has been included concerning the drive train: I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering. If there is anything unclear or if you find errors, please let me know. The idea is to make thing more fun, so all should be clear and correct. Thanks to everybody who shared his/her improvements! -
Hello everyone Here is an attempt to build a Porsche Spyder. Basis is still the 42056, although it has been modified and rebuilt, approximately 76.5% :wink: The panels are painted ... I think I need to revise still a lot. But everything then after my vacation ... I hope you like the first attempt.
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Finished the 816 RX I wet for a bit of futuristic design and I hope to receive some feedback about it. Shall I remove the Mindstorms logo, or it looks good? Photos: -
My porsche in less than 50 km steering mode so far... I won´t finish it but it will be funny try it... Great mode for easy parking. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3BMUcXSgqU&feature=youtu.be '>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfU6ndAW4uE&feature=youtu.be -
Ultimately playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS Now that I have finished Box 1. and got the shifting mechanism and drive train working properly, I thought I might start my own thread about this project. I plan to submit the result to the Porsche of Your Dreams contest. With this project I aim for playability rather than authenticity. So McPherson strut suspension and rear wheel steering? Probably not. But HoG steering and HoG shifting? Yes. I'm actually working on 2 versions, the minimal version and the ultimate version. The minimal version includes all 'must-have' modifications - or fixes - that I listed in the minimal sections below. The ultimate version will include rear HoG steering, rear HoG shifting, a more sturdy chassis, a dashboard gear indicator, Ackermann steering and a stabilized gear rack. The ultimate version also includes all essential fixes, but sometimes implemented in a different way to fit the more advanced modifications. I will keep an index here on the OP of this thread of all the modifications I implemented or plan to implement. Ultimate version - Planned features Lockable doors Ultimate version - Implemented features 4th to 1st gear block Hand of God steering Hand of God shifting Sturdy without body Geared up engine Dash gear indicator Ackermann steering Stabilized gear rack Secured wishbones Improved clearance Improved shifters Removable body Ultimate version - Building directions (link) I do not plan for full-blown instructions. For now I can only offer this thread with reports on all MODs and a LXF-file showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group. I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version. If you want to build this using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers: You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction. Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play. When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference. Note that the 3L pins with 1L axle inside the PDK-unit need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what the LXF-file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion. Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs. Also check the changes to Box 3 and 4, which are needed to make the body removable. Minimal version - Gear shifting MODs (link) I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). Minimal version - Friction reducing MODs (link) I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. Minimal version - Building instructions (link) For the minimal version I made building instructions in terms of errata. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. and on Rebrickable. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anhyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I also made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering.
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So, this is the set TBB already dubbed a "breathtaking perfection" (because it's pretty, you know) and a whole lot of people will buy it just for looks. Unfortunately, I see a Technic badge in there, and Technic line used to be about something more than just looks. That's why I'm going to review it considering its functions, and to put it shortly, when it comes to functions the 42056 feels like a slap to your face. Sorry TBB, someone has to do the ugly job of raining on your parade. This is literally the most expensive set in the entire Technic line, a set which is being promoted by Lego as if their lives depended on it. It's literally being announced as "ultimate supercar" and "art of engineering". Well, bad news. The art of engineering 2016 edition looks like that: - no PF in sight, literally no electronics, nor an easy way to make this set RC - dead simple suspension that has been done dozens of times. Were you wishing for something fancy, maybe McPherson struts, Ackermann steering, caster angle? Too bad, the suspension is the same as in $60 sets. - dead simple steering with new wheel hubs added only so Lego could pretend there are brakes. All these fancy new wheel hubs and fancy new wheels still don't turn in the center like 8448 set's wheels do. - Lego could give us working brakes. Lego could at least give us a realistically looking calipers and maybe some nice brake discs. Instead, Lego gave us a 1x4 tile with a sticker. - a transmission that takes half of a chassis, then works poorly and doesn't really do anything useful Seriously, for $300, which is the money that will buy you e.g. both new Claas tractor and Volvo excavator, you get a bunch of beams, panels and gears. Note how short the parts list is. What this money gets you is a big, great-looking car that is only really good for display. Functions? Steering with a lot of backlash, ridiculously simple suspension and transmission whose main job is making grinding sounds. Yeah, really, the transmission has so much friction in it, Lego actually threw a 24t clutch gear in there to let the wheels rotate when transmission locks up from abundance of friction. Someone had this weird idea to make a 4-speed sequential transmission and then add a separate forward/reverse selector to it, resulting in up to TWENTY gear wheels being active at the same time. And the best part? Well, there are two: first, the transmission only affects the piston engine, and you can't really see it because it's all covered up under the body. So the only real job for transmission is to change the frequency of the grinding sounds. Second, the transmission's speeds are actually messed up because as Crowkillers has noticed, someone put two gear wheels wrong in the instructions. Thus, for a paltry $300 you get a transmission that goes 1-3-2-4. Art of engineering indeed. The biggest problem with the 42056 is the price. Consider 42055: it's bigger and has PF, yet its price-per-piece is much lower. If Porsche had the same price-per-piece, it would cost around $192 - a not unreasonable comparison since these sets are released at the same time. So what's the extra $100 for? Just the Porsche license and a fancy box? For that kind of money you can get a proper RC car from an established manufacturer, with high performance motors and waterproof electronics. Yet Lego expects you to cough it up for something that can, um, look pretty (if you don't mind the gaping holes, that is). Pros: - really big, impressive and exquisitely looking unless you hate orange - finally it's not red again - the box and instructions are so good, they make UCS sets look like something you drew in class when you were 10 - a lot of new useful pieces, including the wheels - superb "starter pack" for those who want to build their own supercars Cons: - this is a $300 set with roughly $192 worth of Lego pieces - the "art of engineering" can't hold a candle to the 8880 - seriously, there's barely any function in this set that works flawlessly or makes actual sense. But hey, you get a luggage compartment and a bag with Porsche logo so who cares, right? - there's no PF nor an easy way to add PF - size, weight and limited functionality make it more of a display model - instructions come with an error - there's no B-model - $300 for what? Some comparisons: -
Check out my newest brickfilm with crazy race. It was made for LEGO and Porsche contest. Soon I'll write longer blog post with more info about the production and with interesting photos. Meanwhile enjoy the movie :) Link to YT: Follow my new MOCs and articles at: Facebook | Flickr | Google+
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Dodge Challenger is one of my favorite cars. Both, the first generation and the current one, regardless of the edition, always gives me the effect of an uncontrolled wide smile on my face. After Lego released the Technic 42111 Dodge Dom set, which didn't really appeal to me, I lost hope of a 16 stud wide Creator like Mustang. However, in order not to disappoint Dom and faith in the family, the idea was born that it could be built from the 10295 set. In anticipation of your comments, yes I know it is too short. It would be useful to extend it by 2 studs. One on the hood and the other in the cabin. In the middle part it was my conscious choice, but the second one turned out to be an accident at work. Unfortunately it can be seen very much. The second biggest problem with the Challenger is the B-pillars and the roof. I'll not talk about it. Contrary to the Hummer, I tried to make as few compromises as possible and used most of available bricks. There is a steering axle connected to the steering wheel. 16 studs wide. Openable door and hood. A mock-up interior with folding seats. What I am most happy about is the back section, which I had absolutely no idea for when building it. These single-set rebuilds are a lot of fun. It reminds me a bit of the times when as a child I got my first sets and tried to reproduce the models that were presented on the back of the boxes. It seems to me that the fashion for rebuilds came from nostalgia for those times. In my case it is just like that. In addition, creating instructions is something completely new which also gives a lot of satisfaction. The one for the Challenger took me a lot of time and work. Its design is as challenging as the model itself. Technical info Rebuild of the set 10295 Creator Expert Porsche 911 Model: Dodge Challenger SRT Parts: 1247 - also used extra parts Height: 15 studs (12 bricks and 1 plate) Width: 16 studs (19.5 studs with mirrors) Lenght: 41 studs Functions: Opening doors and hood, moving wheels and a steering axle connected to the steering wheel. Instruction: 342 steps on 248 pages. Brickshelf Flickr Instagram Rebrickable
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Hello Porsche and Speed Champions fans, Porsche 906 aka Carrera 6 is a street-legal racing car from Porsche. It was announced in January 1966 and 50 examples were subsequently produced, thus meeting the homologation requirements of the FIA's new Group 4 Sports Car category to the number. The type would also compete in modified form in the Group 6 Sports Prototype class. For the year of the car's debut in 1966, it achieved numerous victories. The main inspiration came from a plastic toy car which I received as a child. Building instructions are available on the following links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-106735/_TLG_/porsche-906 It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer the brick built solutions to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore only a standard vehicle registration plate sticker is used. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the emblematic front, the side view mirrors, the side air intakes etc. . Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic headlight, lots of solutions were tested before the final one. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for one minifigure. I suggest to use a helmet or small hair. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Porsche 906 - Instructions 1 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 2 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 3 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 4 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 5 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 6 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 7 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 8 by László Torma, on Flickr
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