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BrickController2 is an Android and iOS application that allows you to control your Lego models using a compatible gamepad. It supports the following devices: - SBrick - BuWizz 1-2 - BuWizz 3 (basic support) - Lego Powered-Up devices: Boost, PUP HUB and Technic HUB (or Control+) - PF infrared (on Android devices having infrared emitter). Features: - Multiple profiles for a single creation - Multiple motor (or output) assignment to a single controller event - Different types of devices can be used at the same time - The same motor (or output) can be assigned to multiple controller events - Different joystick characteristic settings - Different button modes: normal button, simple toggle, ping-pong toggle, carousel toggle, ... - Train mode on joysticks - Normal and servo mode for the new Control+ motors - Sequences (like for flashing light) BrickController 2 on the Google Play Store: BrickController2 android BrickController 2 is also available on the Apple App Store. BrickController2 iOS Video tutorial created by @kbalage (many thanks for this): And another great video by @kbalage: Older versions: BrickController Android application. It lets you to control Lego creations via Lego infra-red, SBrick and BuWizz V1 and V2 using any Android compatible game controller: Current version: BrickController 0.6 User guide: BrickController User Guide Minimum system requirement: Android 4.4 and bluetooth low energy support on the phone (or tablet) Video on the older SBrickController application: -
I have recently acquired Cargo Train 60198, which is a great set. I figured out it could do with a shunter, so I started designing one. The main things I am after are: Something small With accurate and releastic speeds (slow!) and acceleration (slow!) Playable and not too difficult to build So the following is largely inspired by other topics, including: There it goes: Unfortunately, the Powered Up motor takes up too much space for the driver to sit inside the cab, but at least they can hang out from the door! Designed largely around placement of motor + battery box like this, giving it the same overall length and wheelbase I think of Shunter 7760.
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Hi guys Finally, I could continue with my Scania with Palfinger project. With the ordered parts I could finish the chassis of the truck. The truck is controlled with on PU Hub and a mechanical selector gera box for 2 x 3 functions. I tried to document the funtions in the following video: -
I started playing around with the idea of European style semi truck again. I built a prototype to test the chassis design with motors side by side. The core idea here is that both motors are oriented towards back so you can put the medium Technic frame on top of them as well as have cables managed up front. EDIT: final version of the semi: Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-90482 (RC Semi Tractor) https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-90484 (Box Trailer) Update: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-152433 (Manual Semi Tractor) The first iteration/prototype: Prototype showcase: It'll take some time before I'll finish the whole semi truck build, but I prepared the instructions for the chassis so you can build it. Instructions are available for free on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86118 Sneak peek of the instructions: -
As soon as I saw the new parts in the 42159, I knew I just have to use them to upgrade the previous version of the Universal 4x4 off-roader. After tinkering for a few weeks in LDD, and actually building it IRL yesterday, it is officially finished: The V2 has a big list of upgrades comapred to V1. Dual independent drive, one for left and other for right wheels - allowing skid steering Two 3 speed gearboxes - that's right, this is my first off road vehicle with 3 gears for optimal performance Improved steering system - much more direct, accurate and responsive Highly modular design - easier access for maintenance and charging Top speed has been increased by 40% both in low and high gear - the previous version had ample torque, so I geared up all the ratios by 40% and added a middle gear Increased suspension travel at the rear - first time I'm using 11 studs long suspension arms Improved drive motor mounting - now they are no longer at a weird angle Similar part count to the V1 - even though it's 2 studs longer and has way more functionality it has only 20 or so extra parts, totalling at 796 (I tried to keep it under 800) Here you can see how the model looks in LDD: Overview of drive, switching and steering drivelines: The dual driveline is powered by 4 BuWizz motors, 2 motors for each side. The lower PU L motor moves the steering rack via an 8 tooth gear. A second, higher mounted PU L motor spins 4 wave selectors via 8 and 28 tooth gears which in turn switch between the 3 gears. The gearboxes have the following gear ratios: First gear is 20/16 = 1,25 - totalling 4,32:1 gear ratio from motors to the wheels Second gear is 24/12 = 2 - totalling 2,7:1 gear ratio from motors to the wheels Third gear is 28/8 = 3,5 - totalling a 1,37:1 gear ratio from motors to the wheels Thanks to the 3 speeds gearboxes, the model has plenty of torque to climb at 45°+ degrees angle, yet can also reach a speed of over 18 km/h, making it my fastest dedicated off-roader to date: Testing it outside, jumping over pump track course, driving through tall grass, etc... I have yet to encounter any major issues. The model is reliable, fast and can take a beating/rollover with ease. So far I'm really happy with it and can't wait to record more media and publish it soon, so stay tuned! -
Control Lego Control+, Lego Powered Up, BuWizz 2.0, BuWizz 3.0 devices. You can create a profile for your MOC model on your smartphone or set up gamepad controls. Supported: - Lego Technic Hub, - Lego Boost Hub, - Lego Smart Hub, - BuWizz 2.0 (BuWizz extension pack), - BuWizz 3.0 Pro (BuWizz extension pack) Motors: - Powered Up, - Control+, - Mindstorm Robot Inventor, - Spike Prime, - Power Functions Get app: [AppStore] [Google Play] -
Hi This weekend I could finsish the 8x4 dump truck project which I started somewhen in February. It is a simple 8x4 dump truck inspired by Scania G450XT. The functions are driving, steering, dumping and automatic tail gate locking. Everthing is controlled via Powered Up. I control the model with the brickcontroller2 app. For propulsion I used 2 x PU L motors and for steering and dumping one PU L Motor. I'm really happy with the PU system. For this moc it works great and the model is powerful. At the front axle I developed a new supension system. it is inspired by leave spring systems. However, there are no leave springs since I haven't found a proper solution for LEGO. Anyhow, the suspension works great. The model is built in scale 1:16.5 and fits to my telehandler and other mocs and Technic sets (42043)
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I'm puzzled over very similar specs of Powered Up L and XL motors, according to Philo's research. I believe I'm not the only one though )). It looks like a good move to invest only in L motors, since they are lighter, smaller and just as powerful. But what's the catch? Are there any insights on the subject? Any additional field test results? Looking forward, thanks!
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Hi all, I would like to introduce you to my latest biped based on the Powered Up platform. Here's a copy and pasted quick introduction - Introducing Bot 7 - My 7th generation LEGO Powered Up humanoid biped. The bot is built with 8 Technic Large motors. Bot 7 has 6 DOF for leg movement and 2 motors for shoulder joint and arm movement. The bot has been programmed using the Powered Up app. Battery boxes have been placed on the side of the bot to improve body tilting for movement and provide stability when the bot perform a hip + knee tilt. This bot features - * Large step size continuous movement (forward, backward, left and right turn) * 360 degrees shoulder movement * 270 degrees arm movement * Incredible hip + knee tilt without touching the ground * a highly recognisable t-shirt 7 :) Comments are welcome, happy building! /cheung -
Hello Train Tech! I haven’t been here for a while, but I have been building trains! I recently came across an old thread on the Boston and Albany 4-6-6T suburban tank engine, and I saw a comment about its smaller sibling. Well, I am here to share not one, but two suburban tank engines, including the aforementioned 2-6-6T, which I still consider one of my best models to date. To make things as confusing as possible, the NYC called both of these engines D-2a, though not at the same time. The 1912 D-2a (2-4-4T) went out of service shortly before the 1928 D-2a (2-6-6T) changed names. Both engines can navigate all R40 geometry and are much more buildable and usable than my first suburban tank attempt, though the 2-4-4T has to use Powered Up due to size limitations. The two videos at the end go into more detail about each engine and build. -
Hey Guys. I have been working on this project on and off since September of 2021. It is not my first MOC, but the first I care to show off here as I feel it is of a sufficient standard. Small Powered Up Shunter - Pybricks Control The brief was originally a clone of @BrickPirate's Small PF Shunter, and I was indeed using Power Functions parts in the beginning. As there were no instructions or files available, I reverse engineered what I could and went on from there. Then I decided I didn't want the smallest shunter ever, just the smallest on my layout. I also liked a more rounded styling and incorporated that into the design. The colour choice was pretty much determined by what I had to hand after designing a previous MOC (An Emerald Night clone in dark azure with a custom tender and 2L PF motors in the boiler). The white was to somewhat hide the Powered Up Hub in plain sight. The side covers are shamelessly ripped straight from the aforementioned MOC. I put a couple of round times with holes on the front long hood to allow the hub's light and power switches to be accessible. Previously I was removing tiles to access the power switch. Now I can use an axle or whatever I have to hand to power on and off. But there was a little unused space in the rear electrical box hood, so I made a little starting pin which can hide inside if I'm ever anywhere without a technic axle to hand! It just pops in the hole, then a couple of presses later the hub is powered on and the Pybricks program is started. The pin then gets stowed in the rear again until it is time to switch off. I originally had this on PF with a train motor in place, which I decided was just too fast and uncontrollable for slow shunting work. So I decided to put in a Powered Up linear motor. The medium was the only one which was able to fit. The square profile helps with fitment as it is only connected to the chassis physically by the axle to the drive gears. Otherwise it just sort of rests in there. The sided and rear short hood hold it in place against the back of the PU Hub. The wiring is a mess as it has nowhere to go but up in this configuration, but there's no room for a Minifig, so not too much of a sacrifice. The drive software is actually from another Train Tech thread. Control your trains without smart device - with Pybricks courtesy of @Lok24 With the custom profile they designed I can now move around the layout at reasonable speed pulling a consist, and then with a press of the centre button on the PU controller, I can switch into super low speed shunting mode. The benefits of the linear motor here are that the Hub will control voltage to keep the loco moving at the desired speed according to load. Plus the gear drive sounds a little bit like cooling fans spinning so I can pretend a little bit! Overall I'm quite happy with it for now, but I will probably end up changing out a few more things as time goes on. If I can get the motor mounted horizontally I may be able to get the drive line top a 4WD version, but I'm not holding out any hope. Poor little guy could really use 4WD! It can get stuck on points and does slip quite a bit if I load it up with too many pieces of rolling stock. I have custom traction bands on in place of the standard Lego ones for more grip but it does struggle for it sometimes. Thanks, hope you enjoy the pictures. I'll see if I can get a little running video together later on.
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*A Lego IDEAS submission* Frankie's Farm by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Welcome to the farm! This is a farm-themed freight train set that features the small diesel engine Shiro-chan. Shiro-chan v2 (front) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr There are three freight cars to transport cargo from the farm to your LEGO town. These are an all-purpose gondola, a tanker car, and a wood-paneled livestock car. Gondola (v2) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Tank Car by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Stock Car (open) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr The farm consists of a barn with a loft, a mini tractor with a trailer, and a raised goods platform with a crane hoist. Barn Full by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Tractor (front) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Farm Platform by Nick Jackson, on Flickr In the barn's loft there is a spot where a minifigure can take a quick nap next to the hay! Barn Loft by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Barn Open by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Drive the tractor and trailer to haul crates' worth of goods and supplies between the barn and the platform. The cargo platform has attachment points in the base which allow you to rearrange the ramps and staircase. The barn can also attach to the platform. For minifigures, there are two train operators, three farmhands, and an assortment of farm animals including cows, chickens, dogs and cats. Barn, Tractor, & Minifigs by Nick Jackson, on Flickr I built this digitally via Stud.io, but I have also built Shiro-chan (the engine) in real life. Depending on how the support campaign goes, I will attempt to construct the rest of the set. Not all of the parts exist (yet) in the colors depicted however. Thanks so much for taking some time to look at my project! **UPDATE** 6/28/22 So, I ordered some parts and set about building this in real bricks! I think the set turned out rather well! Can you spot the differences between the renders and the irl build…?
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Hi Everyone, Here I describe a method for measuring the efficiency of a gearbox using the Lego Technic Powered Up hub (Control+) and a motor to lift a weight. Gearbox efficiency is defined as the ratio of the output power to the input power and here I show how to measure each of these values to allow you to calculate the overall efficiency. Gearbox losses are due to friction within gears and axles rubbing on the liftarms. By measuring these losses gearbox designs can be tested and improved. Efficiency values are calculated and shown for several gearing combinations and for an automatic gearbox design. -
So I was working on a trophy truck/buggy sort of thing with powered up in Bricklink Studio and I was wondering if it is possible to use a buggy motor with an adapter cable together with the large technic hub or train hub. If someone has the proper components to test this idea out, I would really appreciate it. Here is the sort of thing I am trying to build. -
Problem: Powered Up hub Bluetooth disconnects shortly after running a custom program in the Powered Up app Details: I have the Crocodile locomotive that runs perfectly when I'm using the Lego Crocodile program. It will run without the Bluetooth disconnecting. Recently I made a small custom program in the Powered Up app and noticed that the Bluetooth was disconnecting frequently. I've tried a lot of different combinations to see if I could isolate the fault of the problem. 1. (Android device) Ran the Crocodile locomotive using the Lego Crocodile program and timed how long it would run before Bluetooth disconnected - Ran until I stopped it. 2. (Android device) Ran Croc using custom program and timed how long it took for Bluetooth to disconnect - Disconnects in about 30 seconds. 3. (iOS) Ran the custom program with my iPad and Bluetooth stayed connected longer, but still disconnected after about 2 minutes. 4. Got a reply from Lego Tech Support - Mostly checking settings, etc. (I checked settings and didn't find anything I needed to change). 5. Did some more testing - Verified with Android and iOS that the Lego crocodile program will run without Bluetooth disconnecting. Works perfectly (Ran the train for >5 minutes) 6. I tried putting iOS and Android device in different locations to see if that would make a difference; it didn't. I am <5 meters away from the hub. 7. My Android is up to date and so is the Powered Up app. I've probably tried some other things that I forgot to list. I've searched for others with the similar problem but I haven't found anything that matched. Any guidance on why the Bluetooth works fine when using the Lego crocodile program, but when using a simple custom one, it loses connection within minutes? I am planning to run a multi train set up with programmed stops, etc. Thank you in advance for any replies!
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Hey I purchased 60198 City cargo train set and I run may train either with the remote or with my smartphone powered up application. For me powered up has much more potential when used with pybricks. So I tried to use my city/train hub with pybricks to write some programs to run my train. Unfortunately, I got stuck on installing firmware for pybricks (bootloader). I followed guidelines from their webpage, so was holding green button till light started blinking in purple and then clicked "Install Pybricks firmware" button in Pybricks code webpage opened in my browser. Light on hub is blinking red/green/blue and there is shown progress in % (Pybricks code webpage) after it reaches 100% error message occurs: "Hub took too long to respond" and hub led blinks red/green/blue in infinite mode - you need to put off batteries to stop it. On Github pybricks/support I found whole topic regarding that error message "Hub took too long to respond" and probably there is solution to that problem but I am beginner at Python programming so don't know how to solve this problem. Should I write some kind of input file to get through that issues with bluetooth or other? They put some code file there but I totally do not know how to use it. Here is link to that support page: https://github.com/pybricks/support/issues/256 Any help welcome :) Regards
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This part is already faulty. The hub could not detect it. Lego has replaced with a new one. Thanks. But I am curious. What has happened inside the motor. Can it be repaired by a non electronic man? So, let's open it up. There is no screw or any opening... Then I need to be a little bit tough on this. I used a knife and Philip screw driver. So, that's it. Well, if you think this 13 minute video is boring, please forgive me. Thanks for watching.
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Hello, I've been wondering wich would be the best set to gather basic PU components so I have put together the following table from bricklink & Eurobricks reviews. I hope you find it useful Set number Name Parts Price RRP (€) Hub 4 ports (22127-clip) (85824-screw) PU Motor XL PU Motor L WeDo Motor M (no position sensor) PU Motor Angular Large Planetary Hubs Longest Lin. Actuators CV ball joints Wheels 42140 App-Controlled Transformation Vehicle 772 130 1 2 96 standard tracks & rubber attachments 42129 4x4 Mercedes-Benz Zetros Trial Truck 2110 Parts 300 1 3 1 4 3 Log + 7 std 4 Medium Claas Tires 42099 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader 958 Parts 230 1 2 1 4 8 4 Claas tires 42114 6x6 Volvo Articulated Hauler 2193 Parts 250 1 1 1 1 2 6 Unimog tires 42109 App-Controlled Top Gear Rally Car 463 Parts 135 1 1 1 2 boring tires & 2 ugly tires 42100 Liebherr R 9800 4108 Parts 450 2 3 4 6 104 grey Threads 42124 Off-Road Buggy 374 Parts 130 1 2 4 new spiky tires 42131 CAT D11T BULLDOZER 3854 Parts 450 1 2 2 2 2 116 yellow Large Threads There are several interesting discussions on set prices and value for money across the forum (one in the the recent and excellent review of the 42131-cat-d11t-bulldozer ) and I am not going to dare to suggest any of them. It will depend on your current collection and your future plans but the facts to make your own decision are there. Robot inventor 51515 is a bird of different fur, so I am not considering here, but could be a possibility for some. -
Lego released a new Creator veichle and as a tradition I have motorized it with remote control. A bit easier to hide all electric parts this time as the car is really big. But it is also heavy and slow with only one L motor for drive. There are some small changes to the interior, but all details are still there. I have created instructions to build it with Powered Up parts, but if there are any interest I might add instructions for other power systems later. Rebrickable Instructions Youtube Video
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Hi guys Recently, I finished another model. It is a tractor unit inspired by Scania S-Series trucks. It has 6x4 drive and suspended axles. The front axle is suspended with normal LEGO hard shock absorbers. The rear axles have rubber suspension which imitates air-suspension as used in real trucks. The suspension at the rear axles is a bit hard but chassis is in return flat. The fifth wheel as a self-locking mechanism so that you can couple a trailer easily. To open the fifth wheel a small linear actuator is used. For steering a PU L motor sits directly on the front axle. For propulsion I used two PU XL motors. But check the pictures and video: Instruction at Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86508/FT-creations/6x4-tractor-unit-inspired-by-scania/#details
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01 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr Hello, Bozos! You can support Johnny 5 on Lego Ideas to turn him into an Official Johnny 5 Lego Set here: Johnny 5 on Lego Ideas Who is Johnny 5? Those who don’t know him, Johnny 5, also known as “S-A-I-N-T Prototype Number 5” or Number 5 for short, is a very lively and inquisitive military robot prototype who’s perpetually hungry for more “input”. He is the star of the 1980’s movies Short Circuit and Short Circuit 2 and a TV special called Hot Cars. He became sentient when he was luckily struck by lightning during a combat demonstration. Although he is designed to serve the military as a robot prototype, he has an adorable child-like behaviour and has a great respect for life. He is a peace-loving robot and refuses to use his military capabilities to harm others. Despite being very intelligent and inventive, his naivety and trusting nature has been taken advantaged of on several occasions. Design This model is fully motorised using Powered Up motors and hub and controlled through a mobile device using the Powered UP App. It uses Technic parts to ensure stability of the structure, and System parts to capture the look and form of Johnny 5. The following are the playable features of the model: Movement – This model can move around on tank tracks and uses skid steer to change directions. Body – Johnny 5’s body can tilt using a Powered Up L motor and controlled using a mobile. Arms – Arms can be raised and lowered individually using the Powered Up App. The fingers can be adjusted manually as well as the elbows. Head – The head can be tilted and turned using the Powered Up App. Eyebrows – Eyebrows can be manually adjusted to suit the desired facial expression. Laser – The laser at the back can be raised and lowered using the Powered Up App. Watch the YouTube video here to illustrate these functions better: Johnny 5 on Youtube Total Pieces: 2,711 Dimensions: Studs: W 68.4 x L 36.1 x H 73.5 Inch: W 21.5 x L 11.4 x H 23.2 cm: W 54.7 x L 28.9 x H 58.8 Weight: 99.8 ounces or 2.83 kg Johnny 5 MOC Pictures: 02 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 03 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 06 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 05 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 04 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 07 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 08 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 09 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 10 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr -
Hello My first post here. Found some posts regarding the comparison of Powered Up (PU) and Power Functions (PF), but it was rather related to Technic. Couldn't find any similar for trains. So I am considering to buy 60198 Lego Cargo Train which is powered by Powered Up. However, I read here about PU system that it is inferior to PF system, as considering it in LEGO Technic. So how it is in the Trains department? As far as I see: PF for trains has remote IR intutitive controller with two knobs; for A channel and B channel with max. 8 trains to control (with 4 controllers). Additionally battery box and seperated IR recevier is needed. PU has bluetooth remote controller, so clunky smartphone control can be omitted? But is PU remote controller in any point inferior to older PF controller? PU battery box has embedd bt receiver so less space is needed inside the locomotive, so it seems its better (less flexible though?) Coming back to 60198 buying consideration; I saw some offers of used PF systems for trains (separated or with a locomotive), but they are quite pricey: 55 EU for control set, and 100EU with control+locomotive (from 60052 or 7939 set). So is it better to buy this new set with PU or invest into older used (but better?) PF sets? Kind regards
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Johnny 5 needs your support to become an OFFICIAL JOHNNY 5 LEGO SET. Click the link below to support and feel free to share. - Link Removed - Who is Johnny 5? Hello, Bozos! Those who don’t know him, Johnny 5, also known as “S-A-I-N-T Prototype Number 5” or Number 5 for short, is a very lively and inquisitive military robot prototype who’s perpetually hungry for more “input”. He is the star of the 1980’s movies Short Circuit and Short Circuit 2 and a TV special called Hot Cars. He became sentient when he was luckily struck by lightning during a combat demonstration. Although he is designed to serve the military as a robot prototype, he has an adorable child-like behaviour and has a great respect for life. He is a peace-loving robot and refuses to use his military capabilities to harm others. Despite being very intelligent and inventive, his naivety and trusting nature has been taken advantaged of on several occasions. Why Make a Johnny 5 Lego Set? In Short Circuit 2, Johnny 5 set up a new business with his old friend Ben Jahrvi that builds and sells toy robots made in Johnny 5's likeness. This little robot never made it into actual production after the film. Johnny 5’s popularity and the unavailability of access to these cute little Johnny 5 robots made people clamour for this toy. To date anyone can google sites for 3D printing Johnny 5 robots and websites dedicated to producing both life-like and miniature Johnny 5’s. Johnny 5 is one of the iconic fictional robots in cinema to date. He’s part of every child who’s lived through the 80’s like me who are now AFOLs and longed for the Johnny 5 toy that never came out. Design This model is fully motorised using Powered Up motors and hub and controlled through a mobile device using the Powered UP App. It uses Technic parts to ensure stability of the structure, and System parts to capture the look and form of Johnny 5. The following are the playable features of the model: Movement – This model can move around on tank tracks and uses skid steer to change directions. Body – Johnny 5’s body can tilt using a Powered Up L motor and controlled using a mobile. Arms – Arms can be raised and lowered individually using the Powered Up App. The fingers can be adjusted manually as well as the elbows. Head – The head can be tilted and turned using the Powered Up App. Eyebrows – Eyebrows can be manually adjusted to suit the desired facial expression. Laser – The laser at the back can be raised and lowered using the Powered Up App. Total Pieces: 2,711 Dimensions: Studs: W 68.4 x L 36.1 x H 73.5 Inch: W 21.5 x L 11.4 x H 23.2 cm: W 54.7 x L 28.9 x H 58.8 Weight: 99.8 ounces or 2.83 kg
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On the basis of a post I ordered the parts from AliExpress to make a Powered Up Extension Cable. I would like some advice. The photo shows my best efforts. When I plug in the light sensor - it lights up ( but I did not test beyond this) The train motor does not run. Without a crimping tool and rather basic soldering iron I was able to make a cable. I have tried to test the voltage and all seems OK, but I must admit I don’t really know what values I should be getting. I would also seek some advice on how to test the voltage values of the pins. I’ve used computer ribbon cable, is this OK? The extension cable that I made is about 100cm, it this too long? The size of the male plug from AliExpress had to be trimmed and reduced in size to fit into the LEGO HUB. I’m absolutely stumped. Any advice would be gratefully received.
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This video presents a revised version of an earlier Lego Technic Powered Up 3 speed automatic gearbox that I created. The previous gearbox used a differential for torque measurement and used a powered up large motor to convert the differential rotation into a torque measurement. However as many viewers have pointed out, it is possible to simply use the main motor speed measurement to infer the torque on that motor simply through the inverse linear relationship between the motor speed and it's load or torque. This saves the entire torque measurement portion of the gearbox resulting in a more compact and robust design. I also discuss the optimal gear switching points based on the gearing ratio R between the higher and lower gear. Thanks to philo (https://www.philohome.com/) for the torque vs speed graphs for the powered up motors.
