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Someone on Reddit noticed that several key PoweredUp train components are marked as Retired on the Australian LEGO site. This includes the hub (88009), the train motor (88011) and the color sensor (88007). I have checked the same on the US site and these components are either backordered until the end of March, or "Sold Out" (and not "Temporarily Out of Stock"). Does anyone have any idea of what LEGO is cooking up? PoweredUp was introduced 6 years ago (2018), and after initially being meh on it, it has really grown on me, especially with PyBricks. I placed a few orders to get more stock of the key components, but curious to understand what is happening.
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Based on a truck called the Albatross from the game Mudrunner Expeditions, I made this MOC: The truck in the game: It has the following functions: - 6WD powered by 2 PU XL-motors - Front and rear axle steering powered by a PU L-motor. - V8 fake engine. - Winch at the front and rear of the truck, powered by a L-motor and through a little gearbox you can select if you want to power the rear or the front one. - Independant suspension. A video of the model: A few more photo's: The "fuelcap" (the black ball) on top of the "fueltank" turns on the hub. The bionicle tooth you see below the bed at the rear is the gearbox switch for the winch. Technic fig compatible I am really pleased with how the suspension works. The first 2 axle have 1 hard spring per wheel, the rear axle has 2 hard springs per wheel, because of the hub in front of that axle and the overhang at the rear that houses the motor for the winch (and with this setup it can actually carry a load of cargo too ) To remove the batteries I have to remove 2 liftarms and a part of the drive axle, which I build so it can be easily removed by me. A few things I didn't manage to do, but wanted to are stuff like a 2-speed gearbox and diff locks. but I simply could not make them fit while keeping the functions that did make it into the model. I wanted to keep the central column of the chassis slim (like the truck in the game) and keep the bed clean for actual cargo, so that put a limit on the space I had available. Diff locks either meant a higher drivetrain (at the cost of the V8 and bed probably) or a wider model (I can't think of a diff lock mechanism that takes less than 7 studs in width). A greater desire to use these parts for the independant suspension combined with the planetary hubs meant it would get 2 studs wider, which felt too wide for this tiresize. I also feel like the front of the cabine should be 1 stud longer forward at the expense of the hood, but I loved this Technic panel on the hood too much to let that go (and the tiles on the sides would be very hard to attach if I put it 1 stud forward, so hard for me that in the current build I stole a stud from the door instead to secure the A-pillars ). Sorry for no video yet, I might make one in a few weeks. The problem is at the moment that I have to use the one thing that could make a video to control the model through the Brickcontroller app Thanks for watching and reading! -
I have a powered up hub with 2x2 motors (+1 extra motor for steering) and I really dont like how close the hub motor axles are to the ground. Can someone help me make some kind of suspension, or not even suspension just extension so that the wheels of my RC car can still be controlled with the motors but they are not directly on the default axles? See the picture below of what it looks like and what I want it to look like:
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Dear all, as discussed in the TrainTech forum, I am posting here in the Community forum some modding on a 10-wide BR 89 fully LEGO compatible display model from BlueBrixx, I got as birthday present this year. Why in the Community forum? Because this is - well - a BlueBrixx (BB) set MOD - mostly using LEGO stuff though. This is how she currently looks like (see below for changes to the original BB model) featuring a PoweredUp (PUp) City hub, PUp L motor, PUp color sensor, and custom rods: The TrainTech forum post referenced above shows in addition a turn table I made explicitly for the BR 89 – as I don’t have any more space in my attic to 1) accommodate a full circle of track and 2) no more floor space at all. Which means she has to run on slightly curvy track mounted to the sloped walls in my room, and since I don’t want her get too bored when just steaming back and forth, I thought she might enjoy being turned around at one end of the track section from time to time … Why the BR 89? Because I got her 50 years ago as H0 model from Märklin (in German) as Christmas present from my parents – but then really never got into model railroading – LEGO just was so much more attractive to me back then. Nevertheless, this engine is still available today from Märklin, and the 10-wide BB model looked really nice to me on their website. Some remarks BB BR 89 original set €70 – which a very good deal, bricks and plates with good quality having mostly superior clutch power as compared to LEGO pieces. Colors: I am a bit color-blind, but an expert on shades of gray, and there is room for improvement (some black pieces). However, I like the less perfect, less glossy appearance of a steam engine – have never seen a real one, even when perfectly restored, in super-glossy colors. Changes/additions Rebuilt the lower frame/driving gear/running gear. Main changes: Front axle driven by a PUp L motor (original: center axle/BB PF M motor). This also allows removing the clearly visible “Technic gear 20 Tooth” as seen in this step of the original BB instruction: Furthermore, narrowed the frame at the center axle/wheels from 4- to 3-wide, allowing the flanged center wheels to move inward when negotiating corresponding curves. As the BR 89 is running in eye height in my room, I simply do not like the blind wheels. These are perfect and unavoidable in other builds, however in this case I reverted to the split axle design originally shown by @Ben Beneke on his BR 23 and used all six wheels with flanges. I have motorized Ben’s BR 23 over 10 years ago using the same approach as shown here:With regard to the 89 it is even tougher for her to manage R40 curves, see MLCad picture below, as the front and rear axles are 13 studs apart and the big train wheels don’t help at all. On the split axle there is a piece of medium soft foam inserted between the “Technic axles 2” pressing the wheels very gently onto the connecting rods. When going through a curve, the inner wheel is moving correspondingly and moved back on straight track: Lowered the position of the motor within the frame and moved it forward. This is required when the cabin space shall remain (almost) as “spacious” as in the original, as the PUp L motor is two studs longer than a PF M motor. Added/moved some plates here and there to make the frame a little sturdier, as it became rather “brittle” with the PUp L motor installed. Rebuilt the lower section (frame) of the smoke box to attach a PUp color sensor facing down as well as for the wires (motor and sensor) and accommodate a PUp City hub, which is 3 plates higher than a BB RF battery box. The upper body of the engine seen from below in the picture below does not fit this way onto the frame - this was work in progress. I disassembled the upper body layer by layer and rearranged the layout on the fly when building up the engine on the new frame: Rebuilt, raised (1/2 stud), and moved (1 stud) the cylinders so that the valve gear still runs free, the piston rods are almost on the same height as the wheel axles, and the main rod does not become too long: Moved the connection point of the main rod to the rear wheel (as in the real engine) using custom connection and coupling rod(s) and added some "valve gear": And placed the PUp City hub partly on top of the motor with a one-plate-spacing for the wires: An ESP32 Dev kit (nothing else required, about 10€) programmed within the current Arduino IDE (C++) using the current Legoino library from Cornelius Munz is controlling the setup (turn table and engine operation). Manual control can be done with the PUp remote (left dial keys: turn table motor fwd, rev, stop; right dial keys: BR 89 motor fwd, rev, stop; center key: emergency, all hubs turned off immediately), however this is intended for debugging only, as the setup runs autonomously. The turn table features a PUp L motor as well, so on both table and engine, repeatedly pressing the fwd key increases speed (not power) by 5% using a smooth acceleration profile; same for rev. Stop is a brutal stop though! Some remarks on the original BB BR 89 set: As said, the original BB version is a display model. It features 6 flanged driver wheels; in addition, they give you two blind drivers as well – which tells you that this model is already sturdy enough to go through curves. The original idea is to put the engine onto a (very nicely done!) stand, which elevates it slightly above track level, and then use a BB PF compatible M-motor along with the BB RF battery box and RF controller to "just" turn the wheels. A PF M motor is not powerful enough to run her on track. YouTube's user Bricked4You has published some very nice videos on retrofitting the original display model into a nicely performing LEGO track compatible engine (in German), which is also nicely coping with R40 curves, using a BB PF-L compatible motor. Instead of using BB’s PF compatible stuff (L-motor, RF battery box, RF controller) I wanted to operate my 89 with TLG’s PoweredUp gear – why? Because using a tacho motor (e.g. PUp L motor - BL price for a new motor is about 1/3 of what LEGO asks for on their shop website) along with the “SetSpeed” command (rather than “SetPower”), she moves slowly but steadily, curved track or not, i.e., is far less affected by changing friction forces. The regulated rpm setting is ensured by the motor’s built-in rotation sensor and the PoweredUp hub hard/firmware, which reads and translates the rotation sensor data into appropriate power settings to maintain the "desired" speed. I really like to watch the valve gear when a steamer moves slowly … And I wanted the entire setup (BR 89, turn table) to run autonomously without any user interference (other than moving the BR 89 into startup position). One issue in this scenario is “safety”. When the 89 dives from the approximately 1.5 m height and crashes into the 9/12 V train layout below, serious damage is to be expected – and I don’t want that to happen (I also don’t like crash-videos ...). The TrainTech link given at the top of this post shows the (elevated) track the BR 89 has to negotiate along the wall. (Note that the following two files are deep linked on BrickShelf - thus you are taken directly to the file content. When moderated, I will change this to point to the files) LDraw model including the PUp stuff is available here (note that there are two versions of the drive mechanism – the “new” one is described here); current Arduino sketch as well – rename .txt file to .ino to load it into the Arduino IDE. Video will hopefully follow in a couple of days, I sure hope – I am terrible at doing videos . Best regards, Thorsten P.S.: YES, there is also real cheating going on here : I filed off the "flange"(?) at the long side of the "Technic Pin 3/4" (LDraw #32002), which is driving the center wheel and thus needs to slide in and out in curves as well, as the wheel is moving but not the side rod. On the short pin side, it is legally attached to the center hole of the custom side rod. The would-be Walschaerts valve gear is missing (among many other things) the union link - and the combination link is made from a broken "Technic flex system cable". The intact cable terminal is legally fixed to the upper "Technic flex system pin hole connector" (LDraw #2900), the broken cable terminal is (illegally) just sliding in and out of the lower connector. I like illegal stuff
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Update: I have posted the BR 89 MOD that goes one on one with the turn table MOC presented below in the Community Forum, as per the EB rules: Update 2022-6-3: This is the video link: (Link only, as there is evil content to be seen) Good evening, OK, mods, or favorably @JopieK ;) I have a problem (the Houston type thing ). Let's assume I have purchased a BB BR89, 10 wide, beautiful original BB design; a display model. For less than 70€ ;) Let's further assume, I watched YouTube videos (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dx6zkcSzdDo - only embedded here as link, due to forum regulations), whatever, how to motorize it. Bricked4You is a genius! Let's further assume, I learned from him how to do this, but wanted to use TLG's City Hub and - more importantly a tacho (PUp L) motor, to go with speed regulation but not power settings - to let the BR89 slowly negotiate what is in front of her - without loosing speed. Let's further assume, I added a color sensor (TLG) to the engine, which "reads" the track. Let's further assume, I made a 99% TLG brick built turn table embedded into an IKEA "Lack" shelf - to turn around the BR89, as I don't have any space anymore in my attic to accommodate a full circle of track for this beauty :D. Let's further assume, the 3 axles on the BR89 are featuring flanged wheels, but she does negotiate TLG's curved track (OK, lame, I know, @Ben Beneke has done it decades ago with split axles). And all that runs automatically on an ESP32/LEGOINO, telling the loco and the table what to do. My question is: Where do I post this; in TrainTech or the Community Forum? Best, Thorsten
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Truck, Forklift, Trailer and Pallets for Load Zone / Rig & Roll competition. 8 PoweredUp motors in a very compact design. Controlled by PU remote and Pybricks, no device. It was a lot of fun to design, build and is a lot of fun to play with. Truck heavily inspired by the Seahorse Truck of Mahj, redesigned from the ground up. Forklift lift design by Jovlem/Appie-NL and adapted. Free building instructions per model and python code for Pybricks on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-105435/Berthil/load-zone-rig-and-roll/ -
Hi everybody! I present to you Remote Bla Bla. Remote Bla Bla is a Pybricks (https://pybricks.com) program for a LEGO PoweredUp TechnicHub and a LEGO PoweredUp Remote Control where you first define how each device answers to remote control button actions (config mode) and then you play with your MOC/Set using the defined configuration (play mode). The configuration is saved so that you can turn off the hub, change batteries if needed, go back to your hub and everything is there. Just play. If the configuration is not what you want, you can go back to config mode and reconfigure the behavior. Keep in mind that this is a computer with an input device of 7 buttons and an output device of just two LEDs. This is a Star Trek like interface, a real YDSWIG interface: you don't see what you get. However, once you learn it, you will notice that it is simple. No screens attached! It is working with the latest release of pybricks (v3.1.0). Documentation here. Get it from here. Example usage video: Zetros controlled by Remote Bla Bla: Hope you like it, tell me what you fill about it. I will try to publish some usage examples later. PS: this is a pure software MOC, maybe it should be in the LEGO Mindstorms and Robotics Forum... but I have the feeling that most interested people are here in LEGO Technic Forum. Admins, tell me what you think. VascoLP -
Some might remember Mahjqa's topic where I made a chassis based on AutoBacon's MOC. This is the finished model: It's driven by a PoweredUp City hub and 2 L-motors. The truck weighs 752gr (including batteries). It's downgeared with 2x 12:20 gear combinations (1 at the motor and 1 at each axle) which makes it pretty good at overcoming obstacles. In case you wonder, the choice for knobgears was because I couldn't figure out something else that wouldn't skip in the available space. The half pins which are inserted into plates below the hub help with the structural integrity of the chassis. In the stud.io file I made for the chassis I had a 9L link across the width of the model in that area, but I later found out the front wheels might touch that construction during steering. I'll adjust this in the stud.io file. Tried my best to give the model an interior. Below the black tile of the "seat" is the hub and liftarms that give the chassis its rigidity, so I didn't have much room to play with. To turn on the model I need to use an axle to press the button below the "passenger's seat". I would have loved to have a video for you, but I only have 1 phone which I use to control the model through the Brickcontroller app. @mahjqa has made some video's of an event last weekend where I used this little car (with slightly bigger front fenders), I hope he releases a video soon Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoyed it.
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I had seen the Volvo FH Aero cab a couple of times before it was publicly presented but I hadn't decided to actually build a lego version of it until the weekend before the press release Last week my model premiered at the Volvo Trucks Factory in Ghent, where I work. I'm not so happy with how the upper front grille turned out, my previous model really was spot on, in fact I dare even say that that one is the best out there when it comes to that section. But! There is a good reason why this one's upper grille is rather mediocre, I managed to include a cool feature that would not have been possible on the previous model; Cab Tilt! I have more pictures in my Brickshelf gallery, for some reason I am no longer able to embed those in here. You can check these out once the gallery is public: Brickshelf. As you can see in the video, the model is motorized: A System PoweredUp hub sits under the cab, an L motor for drive and angular M motor for steering are fitted in the wheelbase area. The model features front and pusher axle steering. However due to the unbalanced weight distribution I have experienced a lot of issues with the driving stability. The weight on the front axle is massive, giving the rear driven axle a hard time to find some grip on the road. A reflection I had; I'm quite happy with the fifth wheel, it's the first one I ever made and I wanted it to actually look like a real fifth wheel. Strangely no one else seems to care much about a realistic looking fifth wheel. Don't forget to check out my Volvo FH Hooklift! -
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This is probably optimistic, but I am in the planning stage of building a massive landship /vehicle transporter. I do plan to build it for real after I complete the studio model. These are the functions I would like to have. The 1st pic is certain - drive, steer, lift. The 2nd pic are functions that would be nice to have - secret door and crane. The 3x19 frames are just to show the distance. This is what i have so far: This all started when I saw this video in my YouTube feed. Then a little while later this came up and so then I wanted to make my own version of a landship In more detail. This is the rear axle: This is the lift mechanism in more detail. The backboard of the lift would be removed for the secret door to have vehicle storage under the deck a bit like an aircraft carrier: Also feel free to suggest a better name for the vehicle. I am keen for suggestions and feedback. Thank you for taking the time to read this. -
In a lot old threads I've seen comments, that the L and XL motors would not be fully compatible with the Boost Hub in the Powered App. But that this might change with future updates. Can anyone tell me if they don't work at all or what the problems are? Or if it's maybe already fixed with the current app version? Currently I only have a Boost Hub and would like to get an additional motor with more power and the possibility for absolute positioning (servo/tacho mode). But I'm not sure if I would have to buy a new hub as well to use it... Thank you for any hints, Tobias
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I am building a RC version of the Lego Land Rover Defender (42119) and it will include a 3 speed sequential Transmission. It will be operated from the Powered-Up Lego app. using 3 buttons and it includes a dial that shows the selected gear. I am using a Technic Hub (88012) and a Technic Medium Angular Motor (45603). The Remote Control has 3 buttons; up-shift, down-shift and neutral. When the application is started it calibrates the shifting axle to be at the "neutral" gear and sets the angle to 0. Pressing the up-shift button will engage the 1st gear, then if pressed again the 2nd until it reaches the 3rd gear. If you press the up-shift button more times it will not move the shifting mechanism but will make a "clanking" noise. Pressing the down-shift button will sequentially shift to the next lower gear until it gets to neutral where again will make a "clanking" noise trying to go lower. To the right of the 3 buttons there is a dial that indicates the gear is selected. [Media]
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Hi, I have found a few quirks with the Powered Up app, I consider these bugs. I have made a post about these on my microsite: https://www.biasedlogic.com/index.php/lego-poweredup-bugs/ In short summary: While LEGO advertises the Large Technic Motor (not only) as having an absolute position encoder there's no way of getting this position in the Powered Up App While all data ports in the Powered Up app support very large numbers without a hitch, you can't type in / read out anything beyond 9999.99. Annoying as position for motors can be only specified in degrees and 9999 degrees is less than 28 turns. Specifying negative relative distance for a motor to move makes it still move in positive direction (WTF?) Logic functions have only AND and OR, but not XOR or NOT, especially the missing negation is hard to understand. For some issues there are workarounds, I have described them on my site with pictures, I don't want to redo the work in the forum and pictures are worth 1000 words... Am I missing something or these are actual faults? best regards, M. -
Hello everybody, After thinking about it for a couple of months, I've decided to invest in the new PoweredUp tech and bought Hub and L-motor for my Crocodile locomotive.< So far the process of using the new tech has been.. terrible. The hub, when turned on, shows a blinking pink light (firmware update needed). The app finds the hub (from the app, I choose the Croc, shows the interface to run the train, and the BLE icon shows a few colors) - I suppose it starts the download of the firmware: it shows full screen a picture of the Hub with a big 0% - I suppose that it is meant to show progress and go to 100%.. except it doesn't. It stays at 0% for a few seconds, then it shows a list of connected hubs. The list has only one element "Lego bootloader", the app is frozen, the hub is "off", meaning it shows no light, and pressing its green button does nothing. The only way out is to restart the app, restart the hub (open and close the lid, disconnecting power). Nothing changed after repeated attempts, I tried on two different smartphones, one Android, one Apple, in case it was a phone problem - it isn't. I don't know what to do. Calling Lego is an option, but their traffic volume is high, I am not expected to speak to any human for hours... Any useful suggestion?
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Hi After bricking bavaria 2022 I could finish my trailer with remote controlled sliding curtains, landing legs and parking brake. the mechanism of the sliding curtains works with one PU L motor for each side and two winches at the front and rear of the trailer. Over the winches a cable runs trough the floor of the trailer which pulls the sliding curtains. I'm really happy how the mechanism works :) But check it yourself in the video: The instruction for the model can be found here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-130914/FT-creations/trailer-with-sliding-curtains/#details And some renders because I could not make any resonable pictures until now: -
Hi everyone Last weekend the Bricking Bavaria 2022 took place in Fürth, Germany. LEGO builders from around Europe travelled to Fürth to show their models. This year large cranes, lang heavy load transporters and even a technic locomotive in scale 1:17 were shown. It was really inspiring to meet other builders and learn about their building techniques, concepts and how their model work. For all people who had not the possibility to come to BB22 I cut a video with as many models in action as possible.
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A question for the PoweredUp app users. Can the device number of the PoweredUp hub be set as a variable? This would make coding with multiple hubs much easier. The coding example does not run the motor. When the variable is removed the motor runs when the device number is set 1…4 Am I coding the variable correctly or does the coding block require a number?
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For all the C+ nerds out there, here is a quick demo for using the PoweredUp remote directly with the Control+ Technic Hub using PyBricks. This is the code I'm running on my motorised 42110 Land Rover but can be used with any model using 2 drive motors and 1 steering motor like the 42099 4X4 X-treme Off-Roader set. The code has two control modes: Bang Bang mode simply acts as an on/off controller similer to how the PowerFunctions remote worked in that it turns the drive motors on while the button is pressed and then turns them off when button is released, The steering motor also goes to full lock while the button is pressed and returns to centre when released. Precision Mode acts as a speed controller for the drive motors and provides 10 speed steps in either direction and increments to steering motor by 10° on each button press to give 8 angle steps. The red stop buttons act as emergency stop buttons and the green centre button is the control mode select. I have published the code to my Github account should you wish to download it and try it for yourself. Please make sure you configure the "User Definable Setting" and the " Initialize Motors" sections to suit your needs before running the code. This code is released under the MIT licence, so feel free to download, use, edit and share this code under the terms of the MIT licence, full licence details included in the repo. You can download the code here: https://github.com/MxWinters/PyBricks-Remote-Technic-Hub -
I am very happy about all the feedback and contributions which take the library to that step. Today version 1.0.0 of the legoino library is released! After over a year of learnings and feedback i have reworked the library to be more consistent and to make some things easier. Unfortunately this was not possible without breaking changes. This means some functions and methods has to be removed or renamed. To make the migration of your sketches easier, just have a look into the Migration guide provided on the github project page: Migration guide New features Duplo Train support Enriched Motor commands (maxPower, brakingStyle) Support of setAbsoluteMotorPosition, setAbsoluteMotorEncoderPosition Callbacks for changes on hub properties and sensor values PowerFunction (IR) functions included Hub Emulation (powered up to powerfunction translator) Adding of getHubName rework of log messages to the standard log_d, log_w, log_xx messages. Log levels could now be switched via the Arduino environment Contribution I am very happy about the whole community who participates in that library and contributes with ideas and your cool projects that uses the legoino library. If you have any questions, ideas or need help, you can just contact me. Looking forward to all the cool stuff you are building with the new version of the library. Cheers, Cornelius -
Hello everyone, I was trying to figure the below down on my own browsing forums, searching for answers, reading a lot of articles from last 2 years however I did not find strict answers to my questions. I am sorry if some answers were already posted here and I did not find them. As I am about to spend some serious money (for me personally as I am not rich) on Lego Technic and I want to be able to create custom machines later I feel like I HAVE TO decide between Power Functions and Powered Up. 1. Is (or will) Powered Up system be customizable using Lego official App or 3rd party app? Will I be able to use Power Up motors and customize them into different than original machine so it works? 2. Should I even be coinsidering Powered Up systems for future and creating custom machines? 3. Is Power Functions a better choice for now and for future for creating custom machines? Is it easier to customize controls? 4. Are there any news or leaks that Lego will allow to customize controls of new Powered Up motors? 5. Is Power Functions better for building custom machines than Powered Up? 6. Does BuWizz or Bricks going to support and customize Powered Up? I am sorry, it all feels so overwhelming as for a beginning person that has limited budget and needs to pick carefully and plan everything ahead.
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Hi! A few days ago I joined to find answers on the communication with the elements of the PoweredUp! train control system. Well, I didn't get a reply, and found the solution myself. Yesterday, I made a reverse engineering session and wrote a document listing all the information I could find - hopefully in a concise way. I also added some questions both about the Handset as well as the Smart Hub. Questions I intend to direct at LEGO, too, via the LEGO Ambassador Network. I want to thank Jorge Pereira of the BOOSTreveng project for helpful pointers about the command structure - The old "I could only see that far because I'm standing on the shoulders of giants" definitely applies here. I will continue my work on this document - I'm waiting for the BOOST color sensor to arrive, and want to get my hands on the motor used in the Batmobile - and if someone here has suggestions or additional information, don't hesitate to contact me. PoweredUp! Documentation The next step will be the design of a going-in-between app, which allows me to control my trains with the PUP Handset, but relayed over a computer (maybe a Raspberry Pi) that does things like drive both motors simultaneously, control the lighting, or react to the readings of the color sensor. UPDATE December 16th, 2018: Expanded the documentation with new findings: Battery power readings and conversion factors, blinking and shutdown thresholds. Document is now Version 0.3
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This is a new project I just started. As most of my projects it will probably never get completed but will be a good showcase of some ideas for other projects. I usually don't do MOCs, just like to automate things and add some unusual effects. Last two years I've been collecting some monorail parts with the idea of making something monorail-based, with a few 4DBrix parts to control my budget and also to let me control the movement of the train. When LEGO launched the LEGO 75217 Imperial Conveyex Transport I had the idea of using it as a monorail but adding the new Powered Up hub so I can control it with a MINDSTORMS EV3. So this is the first proof of concept: the EV3 pikcs the Conveyex and make it move until an ultrasonic sensor detects it: To connect the monorail motor to the PUp hub I modded a PUp lights cable, soldering an old 9V plug to the power pins (1 and 2) of the cable: This makes the monorail motor be seen as a Light by the Powered Up (and BOOST) hub so it only works with apps that accept Lights but for me it doesn't matter since I intend to use my own bash/python script. But for manual control and my kids pleasure it also works fine with the PUp train handset: Roadmap: - add a micro-motor to the Conveyex to also control the linked chain track - use EV3 motors (or perhaps 4DBrix motors) to control the monorail Y's - sell a kidney to get a few more monorail parts - integrate the monorail circuit in a Star Wars diorama, with the help of a PLUG mate that is an expert in Star Wars universe The MINDSTORMS EV3 is running ev3dev (linux). This allows me to use a Bluetooth USB dongle to talk BLE with the Powered Up hub. And will also allow me to use some gadgets like NFC sensors to detect the train position or IRLink to control some Power Functions automations (like the AT-ST head). Questions and suggestions are welcome.
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