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Showing results for tags 'problem'.
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Hi there, I've noticed whilst testing 'Electric Technic Motor 9V Geared 480rpm' (47154) http://peeron.com/inv/parts/47154, it was making a strange buzzing noise whilst going both clockwise and anti-clockwise. Could this mean one or more of the internal gears are failing? Thankfully, there are four thin screws on the bottom which allow the motor to be taken apart. Are replacement gears obtainable? If not, then I have to have them either 3D Printed or cast in a silicone mold. Thanks. -
Hi! I built a Lego train and it has a 2-wheel bogie. If the train enters into a straight section from a curve the bogie doesn't turn back. Also, another problem is that the in a straight section I can move the bogie freely. I can't use 4-wheeled bogies, because the train that I built doesn't have that bogie in real life.
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I know I normally post stuff on the forums about Lego Technic, but I also enjoy building Lego MineCraft sets as well and connecting them together. Today, I looked at my The First Night set and noticed something very odd. I got the set on Christmas Eve 2015, and I never noticed this problem the entire time I had it. This is Lego's official picture for the set. Focus on the green 2x2 plate with knob above the brown 2x2 brick with the rose on the right of the pig. When you build the set, the instructions show that there is no green plate below the rose. I don't think there is even a spare piece for it. I checked the internet and I believe nobody ever noticed this before. I'm perfectly fine with it though, since everyone occasionally makes mistakes. What do you think? Has anyone here saw this mistake before?
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Hello, I have a problem with my NXT 2.0, My colour, supersonic and light sensors are not working however, touch sensors are working, Even there is no light at my sensors. Is there anything for me to solve this problem. Is the problem on my sensors or on brick ? -
Not really, but I found out that the motors in my GX EV3 peform better in IR Control mode than how they do in my program, and I believe that it is because the motor power is different. Each block in the EV3 programming software that moves the motors has a digit for how much power each motor should have. I'm wondering what this digit is in IR Control mode, because the motors act much better in this mode than how the do in the program. If anyone here knows the power of the motors when the EV3 brick is in this mode, please reply as soon as possible. It would be very appreciated. -
I'm back with one last issue in my GX EV3 build. I just got done finishing the doors, side panels, rear trunk door, hood, and some part of the roof. But the vehicle was so heavy that when I drove it around, it kept on doing the same thing. The diffs were clicking and the car had very much difficulty moving. Here is a picture of the bottom of the vehicle. Most of the clicking seems to be coming from the rear diff when I move the wheels by hand. I can either do two things. 1. Reinforce the rear diff somehow. 2. Improve it's off-road performance and stop the clicking somewhat by replacing the diffs with knob gears. But this will come at the cost of independent moving between the wheels. What should I do? Please give me the best response you can so the clicking will stop and I could finally take this AWD machine through some rough terrain like a real SUV. I really appreciate any advice.
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Hey guys I do not know if it is only me but all notifications from Eurobricks about new comments to a topic I am following or new personal messages have stopped suddenly - what is wrong? I double checked if for some reason my settings are reset or if I do not make Eurobricks signed accidentally as a spam in my email but nothing like that. Any thought/help would be great... P.S.: I also noticed it does not appear as notification here at the top of the EB site as well so I guess it is something with the EB site itself, right?
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I've been testing leJos with my old NXT brick and something seems to be wrong.When I flash the brick with latest leJos firmware, it works fine. After some time, it starts spewing some garbage onscreen: The only thing I can do is press Off button, but then it doesn't boot up again and I need to try multiple leJos/official firmware reflashes to get it to work. Has anyone encountered anything like that? Any help would be greatly appreciated. -
As I have decided using just the exact real life brick colors (I mean combination of specific brick and color) I have quite a problem with LDD naming scheme as its color names in many (if not most) cases do not fit official LEGO colors naming. For example, which colors in LDD represents these as of now for me very crucial colors: Light Bluish Grey (I am using LDD color 208 - Light Stone Grey) Dark Bluish Grey (I am using LDD color 199 - Dark Stone Grey) Light Grey (I am using LDD color 2 - Grey) Yellow (I am using LDD color 24 - Bright Yellow) Dark Grey (I am using LDD color NO USABLE COLOR!) Flat Silver (I am using LDD color 298 - Cool Silver, Drum Lacq) Trans Purple (I am using LDD color 126 - Light Bright Bluish Violet) Trans Neon Orange (I am using LDD color 47 - Transparent Fluorescent Reddish Orange) Metal Blue (I am using LDD color 145 - Metallic Sand Blue) Can anyone participate and tell me if those are correct or there are some others that I should choose as their LDD equivalents (ehm, there are no others in LDD as a fact actually )? I am a bit lost and really really need help (as I have to be as much accurate as possible so my renders would represent real brick model rigorously)! Besides I really do not understand why they did chose such made up naming and not the ones from real existing LEGO brick color names, to me it is quite misleading and unnecessary mess.
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Hi ! I'm having troubles with bending cables on LDD, using the flex tool. When I first click on the end of the cable I want to bend, there is no problem, it bends how I want, following my mouse. But when I want to stop it bending in a precise position, I left click, and the cable returns to its original form (straight). The pipe in question is 76270 ( which is a piece we can bend!! ) What am I doing wrong ? Thanks for helping Greetings Yann
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Sorry for the little bit misleading title but I was building and found out that unless the wire is in the exact right spot my XL-motor does not work What makes me so mad about this, is that it has happened to me MANY times (4 times) before and the motors are only about a year old. It first happened to my servo motor and I contacted Lego about it and then they sent me a replacement and I was happy about that, then a few weeks l was using 1 of my M-motors and the same thing happened, but the wire was already damaged from another project so I let it slip. About 2 months later I was using my other M-motor that was in perfect condition and found out that it had happened that that motor too, and then just now as a already described it happened to my XL-motor. I am wondering what should I do at this point, I want to contact Lego to get replacements but I don't think they will believe that within a year 3 of my motors have had the same problem and they have already sent me a replacement servo. Should I contact Lego and find out if they will sent me a replacement, or just suck it up and hope it dose not happen to my 2 L-motors? Sorry if this topic is kind of useless. -
Hi, I bought my son a Volvo 42030 for X-mass and after building it we found that it wasn't responding to the remote controls from two 8885 remote units: http://shop.lego.com/en-US/LEGO-Power-Functions-IR-Remote-Control-8885?fromListing=listing I tried replacing the batteries, with no success. When I used the speed remote 8879: http://shop.lego.com/en-US/LEGO-Power-Functions-IR-Speed-Remote-Control-8879?fromListing=listing the loader was responding. Finally I did the cell phone camera test where I issued the commands through the remote and used cell phone camera to image the transmitter and I saw no lights on either of the 8885 remotes, but I could clearly see it on 8879. My question is has this happened to someone else and am I doing anything wrong? I did make sure the polarity of the batteries is correct, measured the voltage on all batteries (came at ~1.5) and finally contacted Lego for parts replacement. It just seems strange that two of these receivers would malfunction straight out of the box. Thanks Darko
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Hi guys, i'm here because i found an issue in some pieces present in the lego digital designer palette. Some pieces have non uniform measures and this imply that these pieces cannot be correctly mounted upside-down. Note that in the real pieces these problems don't occour. In the first image the distance between green and red pieces should have been of 1/6 of lego units, that corresponds to the distance indicated by the grey piece. But, as you can see, this distance is slightly less and this doesn't allow to create a perfect match between upper and lower pieces. In the second image the height of the red and green pieces should be the same but in LLD they differ slightly, as you can see from the small step between the upper surfaces of both red and green pieces. I don't know why LDD presents this error, but it affects a lot the techniques we can use while creating a model. If someone can help me find a solution i would be so thankful. Luca
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I need to change a minifigure's head around for a moc but the head won't move, is there a way I can solve this problem?
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I want a 1x3 plate to sit on the underside of a 4x4 round plate, but turned 45 degrees. See photo below. When I try it in reality it works, but now when I'm about to make the instructions in LDD I can't get it to work. Is it possible to do? If not, are there any other tricks that can achieve this? (just saw that the headline was cut after I posted this. "turned 45 degrees" it is supposed to read.) -
I am struggling with the hinge tool in LDD. I use technic beams, turn plates, rocker bearings, and pegs to make various types of doors and ramps. Each time I think I have the hinge tool figured out, I get different results. When it comes to a """technic beam via pegs""" type of hinge, each beam and peg can be selected for manipulation, causing circular arrows to appear. My problem is that the entire model moves most of the time instead of the part that I want to move. The starships I make are massive and LDD freezes for up to thirty seconds each time the entire damn ship moves. I have experienced this happen while manipulating pegs or beams. At first I thought that the entire model would only move if there was a red box highlight around the entire model, so then I made sure that only the piece I selected had the red box highlight. But sometimes the entire model moves while only the one piece has the red box highlight. Every instruction and video I have experienced, neglects to explain how to actually use the hinge tool, they just cover the basics like CLICK, ARROWS, DONE. I wish it was as easy as grabbing the door and moving it with the mouse cursor. While building, I often mistakenly grab bricks from the foreground, could this be what is happening when the entire model moves instead of the door? If so, the only way to prevent it from happening is to zoom way close to the arrows, but then I can not see what is going on. I am not trying to spend most of my time zooming in and out. Regarding using the arrows, which part of the arrows should be crabbed by the cursor, the arrow head, the body or can both be used. Should I move the cursor in a ring following the contour of the arrows, or should the cursor be moved up and down? It may just be me, but if I engineered a program, I would explain such things, instead of simply stating that the hinge tool is used to manipulate hinges. Yeah but how? What part must be clicked/selected? How do you use the arrows? How do you know if the door will move, or the entire model? A couple days ago, while tinkering with hinges, I noticed that the entire model was rotated horizontally by about 20 degrees. A consequence of messing with hinges that I did not notice,.. well I noticed it, but I thought that I had accidentally clicked one of the annoying, hardly visible pan arrows. I had already saved lots of work so reloading was not an option. I ended up correcting the 20 degree rotation but forgot how I did it. Though the 20 degree rotation was corrected, the ship was now moved from it's original location. This was upsetting because I had multiple free floating objects like sliding doors that were not connected to the model, which were now outside of the ship. How would I be able to fine rotate an entire selected model, instead of the limited 45 degree changes that the keyboard arrow keys provide? Or is my only option to perform a (((disappearing hinge trick)))? Regarding the hardly visible pan arrows, why were they designed to rotate the users perspective, instead of move the perspective left/right up/down? Is there any way to invert a model? Like to turn a left into a right? Without this ability, building takes more than twice as long. Is there any way to make a brick attach to a tile plate without performing the (((disappearing stud trick)))? I noticed that not even a Lego figure can be placed on a tile plate which blew me away. My floors are always tiled because as a child I knew that walking on floors with bumps everywhere would be annoying. When I watch tutorials on YT regarding LDD, their brick selector to the left has the pieces shown in a rainbow of colors which would make finding pieces easier, but mine are all red. I like all red so I know what bricks were recently placed, but I fear I am lacking something. Also when I select the decoration tool, the popup selection window has only a couple designs to choose from. My real Lego collection had at least 150 different designs for 1x2-1x3-1x4-1x6-2x2 tile plates, yet the only tile plate in LDD that has more than a couple options is the 1x2 plate, which has a couple dozen. I fear that I do not have the full inventory of parts. Is there an update or library pack that I need to install? Any way to permanently link bricks together so in the future, when one of the linked bricks is selected/moved, the other linked bricks are selected and moved with it? When I open the color pallet window, the "Legacy" colors at the bottom are cut off by the status bar so I am unable to see all of the colors. Is the color pallet moveable somehow, or must I use a larger display in order to view it all? My lap top is only 720p. I included an image. I am unable to move this ramp door at all, but sometimes the entire ship moves while the door stays put. There is nothing blocking the movement, hidden or visible. I have worked with real Lego's since I was eight so I know every Lego brick very well. I would be having so much fun if I could actually see the things I create function, instead of massive confusion and frustration. Version - 4.3.10 Brick Version - 2248.1 WIN10
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I'm programming my EV3 vehicle to be operated by an IR beacon remote. I've successfully got the car to be able to move, but I'm stuck on something else. My vehicle has a 4-speed transmission, and a medium motor shifts the gears. I used the remote's topmost button (the one that turns on the green light on the remote) for shifting the gearbox. But when I press it, something goes off. It's really hard to say, but what I know is that the topmost button isn't acting like a normal button. So the motor keeps on moving until the IR sensor realizes the green light is off. I really need help with the program because I just want the topmost button to act like a normal button so I can press it to make the medium motor shift one gear with a one second wait before shifting to the next one. I would love a very helpful response from someone that knows how to program the IR remote and if there is no way to get the topmost button to get the result I want, an alternative would be nice so I can be able to shift gears with the push of a button on the remote.
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I said before in my previous post that I had some problems with my GX EV3 4x4 chassis that I needed to fix. Once again, it's more gear grinding/clicking, but this time it's only in the front and rear differential gears. The grinding occurs whenever the chassis tries to drive into a wall or when it tries to drive in different conditions (because as an SUV it should drive smoothly in dirt or uneven terrain). What also annoys me is that when I push the car, instead of letting the motors move, the differentials make clicking noises that, like I said before, sound like a machine gun. I really need help so I can stop the differentials from clicking so when the car tries to drive into the walls, the motors won't still move while the differentials click, and so the car can be a lot more versatile on uneven terrain (such as what I used for testing, blankets) without the differentials causing a problem when the car moves. Here's some pictures of the bottom of the chassis.
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I'm back again with another gear grinding issue but this one is a bit less critical. The grinding only occurs when my 4x4 SUV chassis (with Sariel's 4-Speed Sequential Transmission) is in a certain gear. Here's some photos of the chassis. The transmission is shifted to the speed where the nonstop grinding occurs. When in this gear (I believe it may be 3rd) The car is supposed to move, but it does very slowly while clicking noises fire like a machine gun. This is the only time when the gears grind other than, say, if the chassis hits a wall. When the clicking begins, I hear the driving rings shake (which awfully reminds me of the somewhat gear clicking in the Mercedes-Benz Arocs set). I would love a response a soon as possible to address the clicking problem so I can finish the chassis once and for all.
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This is my second post on the EuroBricks community and another question asking for as much help as I can get to master the art of the technic gearbox. Like I said in my previous post, for my Lexus GX EV3 4x4 SUV, I tried my best to use Sariel's 4-speed sequential and it ultimately failed on me. Quoting one of my replies... I would be relieved if I could finally finish this creation after five months of difficulty. Here are some pictures of the entire chassis. I said before that the issues with this was that the gears clicked a ridiculous amount at the highest gears which stopped the car from moving. (Hence the reason why the transmission I want needs to have a clutch gear to absorb the large amount of torque)
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I have just had another 8885 or controller fail. It is also the replacement I got from lego!! If you have any other problems I would like to hear them. Thanks. Aventador -
I'm building a SUV drivetrain for my Lexus GX EV3 project that has independent suspension, four-wheel-drive, and a four-speed gearbox with a medium EV3 motor that shifts the gears. Unfortunately, after testing the drivetrain, I found that when in 3rd or 4th gear, the gears make a clicking noise when moving forward and then straight to backward. However, this clicking somewhat occurs less when going from reverse to forward. This clicking really "grinds my gears" and I don't know what to do to stop the gears from clicking. My gearbox is a custom version of Sariel's four-speed sequential that is fit for the vehicle I am building. The input in the transmission is switched to provide more speed. Two large EV3 motors drive the input. I've noticed that when the vehicle stops, it goes the opposite direction for a little bit. Also, like I already said, this clicking only happens in 3rd or 4th gear, but mostly the 4th gear since it brings the most speed. I tried to solve this clicking with different gears and whatnot, but no matter what they still clicked when the vehicle moved forward to backward. The motors and the gearing also bring a lot of torque as much as it brings speed, and this might be one of the problems. Is there any way I can solve this issue so the gear clicking will stop in this situation (moving foward and then straight to backward) for now on? Here's a photo of the bottom of the drivetrain. Thank you in advance for any assistance that you may be able to provide!
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Hi all. I don't think I've posted something in this sub-forum before, but here is a MOC I made last September for our monthly LUG build challenge, the theme was Futuristic. And there is nothing more futuristic than Futuron! Problem in Experimental Reactor #3 "Those crazy Futuron Scientists and their Experimental Reactors will be the death of us all!" - Unknown Classic Space Engineer Problem In Experimental Reactor #3 Photo1 by Magma Xenoliths, on Flickr Problem In Experimental Reactor #3 Photo2 by Magma Xenoliths, on Flickr Problem in Experimental Reactor #3 Photo3 by Magma Xenoliths, on Flickr I really enjoyed building this one - Classic Space/Futuron was my favourite as a kid. I'd been impressed with someone's spaceship MOC that used Electro-Luminescent wire for a lighting effects and bought some of it to try out for myself. I also had a bunch of trans-blue pieces from buying several Space Police 3 main ships and sooner or later was going to do a Futuron MOC - this reactor was the result. The EL wire actually spirals up in a helix through the middle of the tower, which may not be obvious from photos. The wire itself fits almost perfectly into a 1x1 plate with clip piece, so I just connected it at each level on different sides to keep it in position. The reactor "wall" and the observation room are inspired by pictures I'd seen of early atomic reactors - and maybe a bit of The China Syndrome movie too. And obviously Classic Space folk are keeping an eye on these Futuron engineers and their strange experimental technology.... ;-) Thanks for looking!
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Hi. I was working on my car MOC (with a four-speed gearbox designed by Sariel) and had some unfortunate events happen. As stated in the title, the differential is somehow making the gear ratio higher than I need it. The gear moving the diff is moving at the same speed as the power input, but the wheel hub moves one rotation for every 3/4 rotation that I move the input shaft. Is this differential piece supposed to do this? I want the wheels to move at the same speed as the motor at 4th gear, which brings me to my next problem. I hear rapid-fire clicking noises every time my car is in 3rd and 4th gear. This happened to my other MOCs too, but I was able to solve it. Since the car is to be powered by two EV3 large motors, I actually believe there might be a clutch mechanism in the motors such as in the Technic linear actuators that also make a terrible clicking sound when they move all the way up or down. Whatever it is, I'm open to responses and hope the Eurobricks community could provide an explanation and solution about both of these issues. Here's some pictures, the orange and red pieces in the first pic were for testing the rotations. ' Thank you for your time. -
Hello, we got a Lego boost as a christmas present and the first days everything was fine. We build the robot and the guitar, yesterday we tried the cat and the move hub won't start anymore. When I press the green button, the white light flashes and after 5 seconds it turned in steady green. Then 5 seconds later the white light flashes and the hub goes off. I tried this with 2 compatible devices... I tried to reset the move hub by pressing the green button 10 seconds, the light blinks in violett and doesn't change the color like in the troubleshooting manual. Has anyone an idea how to solve this? Thanks Robin
