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Let´s start with brand new model for the LEGO Technic Challenge. A 29 cm tall figure of American astronaut with moving wrists, elbows and shoulders. The helmet is equipped with two PF lights and both arms are operated by PF M motors. The model is remote controlled and powered by rechargeable LEGO battery.
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Hi, It's been a while, but this winter I got my hands on the Audi RS Q e-tron set with the new wheel hubs for the strong (RC-capable) CV-joints. A year ago I got 2 Buwizz 3 units and a couple of Buwizz motors (their buggy motor remake) and with the hubs and diffs from the Audi I could finally continue a concept that I have working on every now and then over the past few winters. The idea was to create an off-roader with ruggedness and capabilities comparable to my Greyhound 4WD RC Buggy and Make a modular build with an easily removable body, just like with real RC cars Make the Buwizzes easily removable, so you can use them for multiple models Make it easy to reconnect the steering ball joints if impact caused them to detach The wheelbase is 3 studs shorter and the trackwidth 2 studs narrower compared to the Greyhound. The roof top is also 2 studs lower. All in all I strived for a little bit more of a race look. One of the ideas that I started with (about 2 years back), was a setup with 9L steering links that are positioned with a small angle, such that they are actually a little too short (about 0.8%), which gives them a nicely tight fit; when you use them at both the front and rear side of the steering setup that is. With this setup any rotation in one wheel hub translates to immediate rotation of the other wheel hub, without any slack. I also wanted to use 4 Buwizz motors to make the whole thing capable. At a certain stage I had a setup with the old wheel hubs and the new RC-capable CV joints, but I could only make that work for a RWD model, not for 4WD. 4 Buwizz motors on a single axle did not turn out to be a good idea. With melting axles and frames as a result. With the new wheel hubs of the Audi RS Q e-tron I could revert to 4WD and I could finally make the whole thing work. Here's a video of the first successful test-drive with the chassis only. -
Hello, long time lurker but never contributed anything. I been considering ideas to let my 12v trains also use the 9v/RC tracks and one of the problems was to make the 12v curved rails fit I guess other people have tried this to, but I realize by removing in total 4 stud I would get a snug fit and also a more convenient way to build track layouts. I also modified some straight tracks to be able to connect them with 12v rails switch points etc... I made as short video showing the process using cheap RC tracks and the next step would be using copper tape (and I need a extra set of 9v contact points) for the 9v system, not sure if I want to tape the 12v switch track but I guess I can test it out on a "broken" track. I thought that traction could be a problem but it seems to handle it well (test drive at the end of the video), there is some spinning when starting the train with "high" voltage but at soon as it moves it's coping quite well.
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Hello! Today I would like to present my first foray into the city theme. This truck started out as a load for a planned train (rolling highway), but I also wanted to know: can I build a trruck that can be driven by remote control? Without hiding the electronics in a Container box.... Yes, I can! The little one is fully roadworthy: 1x Cicuit Cube HUB, 1x Circuit Cube motor as drive motor and 1x CaDa MicroMotor for the steering (here the PF plug had to be exchanged for a Circuit Cube plug, soldering skills helpful). And because it's nicer: front/rear light in the truck ;-) A matching semi-trailer was also built, of course with a prototype. I like the north of Europe, so I often see the semi-trailers of the Freja haulage company and my daughter is also called Freja (only in the German spelling). So it was obvious which haulage company would serve as a role model for me. And the logo was a great snot job: approx. 200 parts per logo.... The trailer has a retractable/extendable pillar, operated by hand via a gear wheel at the front. It's hardly noticeable there and could also be a ventilation detail... I also built a manual version of the truck with “Hand of God” control: no soldering, just drive, no foeign parts required.... .... and with twin tires. I'm still missing them on the RC version and have fallen victim to the lack of space. And because only pictures of moving trucks are boring: I have created a (attention, longer^^) video of the development and with many detailed explanations (but in german, sorry) : have fun watching it: I hope you have as much fun watching the photos / videos and reading here as I had building ;-) Thomas / Ts__
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Hey Guys, I'm back with my second alternate model of the Zetros set (42129). As you might remember from the presentation of my Unimog alternate, I was originally entertaining the thought of rebuilding the Zetros into a Jeep, but I passed since Tim has already built one. However, as I kept thinking of how I would do it, it became clear that I had quite different ideas in mind, and it was just too tempting to do it, so I gave it a go. Here I will write down the design process as that seemed to be something interesting for you guys in case of the Unimog as well, and I also prefer such presentations. Features - 3-link floating axle suspension with Panhard rod at the front - simplified rear floating axle suspension with 2 links of limited degrees of freedom and a Panhard rod - 2-speed gearbox with coupled RWD/AWD selector (hi gear is RWD, lo gear is AWD) - smooth and highly colour consistent bodywork - openable doors, bonnet and trunk - detachable hardtop - detailed interior with green accents, built seats - detailed engine, snorkel, minor extras (roof rack, jerry can, fire extinguishers) Here's a real 2-door model in dark grey color which I used as a visual reference: I also used a blue print to roughly set the proportions in a 1:10 scale. Bodywork Interestingly, this model started out from the bodywork, which I don't do often. As a fan of Jeeps, I have long been wondering what the best ways are for replicating its characteristic details, such as the hood and the grill with Lego parts. My Willys Jeep (alternate of the Defender) uses system parts for the (flat) hood and a simple vertical grill, but I wanted to build one with technic panels as well, replicating the slanted surfaces. I have seen two major techniques, one with the long wing-shaped panels (such as the models of @Madoca 1977 and @rm8), and the other with the long curved panel, mainly the classic model of @Sheepo. Since this set has those curved panels in DBG, and the wheels are about the same size as on Sheepo's model, I was wondering if a similar front could be built from the set, especially the angled placement of the curved part, along with the downward slanting of the whole hood, which also needed to be openable. It turned out that with quite a few alterations here and there, the hood could be built, and even better, they could be built using a few large panels only, which makes it look more clean and uniform.. Some arches needed to be redesigned, and the whole became 2 studs narrower, but the proportions worked fine. Then I moved on to the front and the grill, where much more redesign was needed due to different parts available, but after a few iterations with increasing the width and height of the vertical 'bars', I found the one that fit nicely with the smaller lights in the set and the newer curved small panel extenders (and as far as I can tell, newer Jeeps has such bigger grill, so it seemed fine). From there, I moved on to the sides. I knew it was critical to use the BDG panels carefully, because otherwise there would not be enough DBG beams to build the whole body, and I wanted a clean and colour consistent body. I quickly concluded that the doors can easily be built with the large panels, and the windows can also be built with the DBG connectors. The next critical point was to use the thinner long DBG panels in the rear part above the fenders. The difficulty was that they only left one possibility to mount the pieces of the fenders, so I had to use all those black angled beams there, and I had to build the fenders a bit wider so that I can actually connect the two ends to make it a stable piece. Fortunately, the wider fenders also made it possible to build the front ones from black beams at the same angle, even without more available angled beams using triangulation. The last critical piece was to use the small BDG panels in front of the doors, which just fit there tight. If I had to build that section from beams (as I started out), it would have cost too many beams and connecting them to the chassis would have been difficult as well, but the panel solved both problems (unfortunately, it has a drawback as well, which I will cover later). The remaining DBG panels were used in the back, also allowing for an opening trunk. The last tricky part was the rear corners with the lights. I wanted to make them more rounded with the curved panel extenders, but they would have screwed up the proportions, so I just used a slightly curved system brick to give it some curvature. Also I managed to use the black arched beams to replicate the characteristic rear roll bars, and the black tubular parts to build the roll cage, along with the 15L flip-flop beams, which proved to be critical for mounting the roof. The many flat black panels of the set were enough to build the whole roof, along with the side windows in a way that the whole hardtop is detachable from the roll cage as a single piece. Later, when it was more clear what parts remain, I also added the two bumpers, and even a nice snorkel and minimalistic roof racks were doable to give it more interesting details. Gearbox After being satisfied with the rough bodywork, I started designing the functional parts, which I also wanted to put emphasis on, since that's what technic is all about. However, since my Unimog alternate was about the suspension, this time I wanted to focus more on the RC gearbox and build a less articulated suspension which takes less space. I have been tinkering with the idea of a coupled 2-speed gearbox and a central diff-lock for a while (and @Pattspatt also teased me about it), but I never managed to design a compact one, where the drive motors are also placed conveniently. When I looked up a Jeep Wrangler drivetrain, I found this image, which was particularly interesting for me because of the front wheel drive that can be decoupled. Being offset to the side, I thought this could actually be nicely reproduced with lego clutch gears (something similar I already did with my Willys Jeep alternate, not knowing that it's done similarly in real life). After a lot of juggling with the placement of the motors and the gearbox components, I came up with this quite compact drivetrain setup with the gearbox inside the 11x7 frames, which not only includes the drive motors, but the steering motor too (later on that as well). The key ideas regarding the overall chassis structure are the following. First, I use a simplified (limited degrees of freedom) rear suspension, which requires only one CV joint, which makes the rear part of the drivetrain shorter, making more space for the gearbox, which is placed a bit to the back. Second, I placed the motors to the front of the middle section, and use the back of the motors as the mounting point for the front lower suspension links. Thus, the motors play a major structural role in the chassis. Here is the central part: And here is the whole drivetrain without the motors and the frames: As you can see, the rear part is short, and the front is offset to the side, and can just be routed between the drive motors, under the steering motor. Another interesting thing about it, is that it actually has two shafts (yellow axles at the front) coming from the two drive motors (but they are coupled by the red gear in the middle), and one of the shafts powers the 2-speed gearbox, that then goes to the rear axle, and the other shaft powers the the front axle, so the front axle drive does not pass through the gearbox, as it's only active in low gear. The orange selector switches both the gearbox and the RWD/AWD switch at the same time, activating the front of the drive train when low gear is selected. As with my Unimog, the placement of the gearbox motor was again difficult, as a lot of additional elements (end stoppers, clutch gear protection, down-gearing) need to be placed, so the gearbox motor had to be routed out to the trunk. Suspension As I outlined above, the rear suspension is a somewhat simplified live axle. I saw this trick first in @nico71's Ford F150 alternate, but builds of @rm8 use it as well. It is like a ball-joint based suspension, but without the ball-joint as support that prevents the axle from rotating forward/backward. In case of non-motorized models or smaller RC ones with less powerful motors, the joint itself is enough to keep the axle from rotating, but it was not enough in this case (the coupled motors could just rip apart the driveshaft), so I had to fix it explicitly. I opted for a suspension link that does not let the axle rotate forward on the far end, only tilt sideways (not using towball pins, just regular axles). This setup provides strong enough support to prevent the torque from ripping the driveshaft apart. A Panhard rod further stabilizes the axle to prevent sideways movement. Unfortunately, it's still not as solid as a ball-joint would be, and does not relieve all friction from the driveshaft. On the front, I used a similar 3-link suspension as the Unimog, but I had to move the Panhard rod behind the axle as the space was even less in the front, and managed to move the springs further in, giving it a softer and longer travel. It actually came out too articulated and had to be limited, as the wheels hit the fenders. Also, I used a better steering geometry than the Unimog (no anti-Ackermann geometry), and the max steering angle became very good, too good actually, as the wheels hit the bodywork at max angle, and can get stuck in it, so I limited the angle a bit, but is still better than the Zetros (the limiters are just half pins, which can be taken out to get a lot of steering angle, at the cost of risking the front wheel getting stuck in the body at max angle and max articulation, but work pretty good on flat surface). So the suspension is not bad actually, limited a bit by the bodywork, but the model still drives around quite okay on real terrain. Also, I wanted to experiment with a different steering setup, not placing the steering motor onto the axle. As said above, I found it a nice place between the drive motors, and using the CV joints there was just enough space to route it to the axle. It works okay, however, the two joints already introduce some lag in the steering, which is most noticeable when trying to automatically return to center, it does not center totally. But it's still okay and can be controlled with fine adjustments. Interior As the seats in the Zetros set were too small for this scale I needed to build bigger ones. Since I did not want to use the green beams on the outside, I used them as accents on the inside, they were enough to build seats and to be used in the middle console. I entertained the idea of making the steering wheel functional, since the steering motor is not on the axle, but there was not enough space to route it to the steering wheel, and furthermore, the curved panels used as a dashboard just block the way, and otherwise they are important structural elements that hold the front and the sides, so I did not want to alter them. The battery is placed between the B columns, as there was no other convenient place, and there it's easily accessible. The seats can be folded forward, to give room for replacing the batteries. The engine details are just some imaginary ones built from the remaining parts (nothing working). But the snorkel tubing continues on the inside :) Here is the whole chassis with the interior: And here are a few more renders and photos of the complete model, but much more is available on Bricksafe. Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor -
Hi Folks! Let me show you a build that has been sitting on the shelf for a while but I only got around finalizing its presentation lately: a Zil 130 6x6 trial truck built for the mini truck trial challenge in Buwizz camp 2024. The model is actually a predecessor of my Ford F150 built at the same scale and color. As the rules of the competition said that one can only enter with a proper truck (not a pickup truck), I had to build something new, but as I did not have much time to build, I wanted to reuse some of the chassis/suspension setup, and the small blue fender parts. Because of the blue color, the Zil was a convenient choice. However, I decided to make a 6x6 version for better traction and for the challenge of building a dual rear axle, which I have never done before. Features All wheel drive with independent rear driveshafts, 2x PU L motors 5-link live axle front suspension with coil springs Live axle rear suspension with leaf springs by flex axles and support links Linkage based steering of front wheels by PU L motor Openable doors and removable cargo bed (for more flex in trial) Simple but complete interior Chassis and suspension design When I started out, I knew I wanted to keep the motor layout and front axle design from the Ford F150, but I also knew the rear axle design had to be changed because the coil spring setup was not a good fit for a truck (too high). So keeping the motor layout, I adapted its rear end to a truck, and also removed the gearbox and its motor to give space for the double driveshaft. The bare chassis looks like this, simple and slim: Then I started experimenting with leaf spring setups using flex axles, which have been used by many (I especially like the work of @paave in this area), and looked promising. However, the existing designs I found were not completely satisfactory for my needs; they took up too much space for two axles close to each other, and they were a bit stiff for my lightweight truck (I wanted something with a lot of flex). Typical designs start out with a bent (11L) axle in a downward looking quarter circle, and then the axle bends upwards upon articulation, which gives a preload to the flex axles. I found a configuration which starts out with the flex axles flat and then bends them upwards upon articulation, which allows using shorter (7L) axles with a tighter mounting, while still having a soft flex. The rear axles are really slim, consisting of only a main beam and wheel mounts. They look like this installed into the chassis: To keep the rear axles in position, a row of lower links run underneath, and and towball arms secure it from the top. The two rear axles can articulate completely independently, the are not coupled. I am really satisfied with how this came out, it's very compact and even looks somewhat realistic. Bodywork and interior To build the body, I used a mix of technic and system parts. The blue fender pieces are quite a good fit for the Zil, and a few curved slopes around it can fill the holes. The micro panels add nice curvature to the doors, and further sloped system parts can be used for the B pillars and of course the hood. Also, I wanted to have a brick built front face / grille, which I also managed to realize with system parts built in various directions. In general, the technic micro panels and curved system slopes play very well together, I love to mix them at smaller scale! As for the interior, two small seats are perfect, and I had space to add a dashboard with steering wheel and a gearstick. Running the cables through the cabin was a tough part though.. Furthermore, besides the bare trial version, I wanted to make the model so that it can be a complete truck with a cargo bed, so I made a simple detachable one using a few large panels. A key to this is that the rear section of the chassis is low enough due to the compact suspension. Here are some more renders and photos as well. More pictures are available on Bricksafe, and building instructions are available on Rebrickable. As for the performance of the model, without the cargo bed it is really a cute little agile beast :) The two L motors provide ample power, the suspension has a lot of flex, ground clearance is also quite good for the size. Unfortunately, the turning radius is not so great due to the length and that only the front wheels are steered, which proved to be a disadvantage in the trial competition. Also, the competition allowed for bigger tires (up to 62mm) as well, which I did not max out, but wanted to use these smaller ones instead because they look so cool; that also put me to a disadvantage against other competitors, so I did not place well. But when just playing for fun and making the video, this little truck gave me a lot of joy :) Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor
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Dear all. Allow me to introduce my latest MOC which was in development long time now, its supposed to be scaled replica of CLAAS Torion 1914 wheel loader from CLAAS company in 1:17 Scale. The reason why i chose this moc was due to lack of other "colour" machinery in this segment and also being kind of specific wheeloader for agrocultural sphere which i love. Claas Torion 1914 is colaboration with Liebherr on joint wheelloader project, Liebherr version is L550 and up. Model is combination of technic chassis and functions with system easthetics. Over 2000 pieces and 4 motors of Control + type allows for good looks and good playability, althrought a bit limited by weaker PU motors compare to PF, i chose PU to get in new wave of tech + easier and cheaper accesibility on market as the PF functions are getting more expensive. Functions are provided by 3x L PU motor and 1x XL PU motor Driver 1x XL Steering 1x L Pneumatics #1 1x L Pneumatics #2 1x L Each L motor serves for pump and switch together by sariel pump/switch combo, but modified to suit my needs in this build. there are two 6L pumps connected to each motor without any air tank so the actions are not so snappy and responsive and it all depends on the power of motors and batteries. due to this i am seriosly considering upgrading to Buwizz 3.0 to see if it will make it perform better and faster. I don't usually know what more to type about the MOC so i will answer every question in comments section if i will be able. Enjoy the photos (video later today) -
Hi everyone! Today I want to present you an off-road car, that I've been working for quite some time. There were several attempts, some of it ended up as unpolished models, without all features I initially had in my mind, and some were just concepts of gearbox, axles, etc. These were my initial assumptions on the model: Sturdy drivetrain and gearbox with a wide range of gear ratios Remotely lockable both front and rear axles Up to 1:10 scale, nothing bigger Utility vehicle - it must be able to climb step hills and also provide decent speed on plain terrain Removable body (if it would have one) Precise low speed control - to provide maneuverability over a variety of obstacles Planning the wheelbase and car elements, based on an existing vehicle - to ensure the authenticity of the model Using trusted A2212 1000kv BL motor and other RC components to power it Gearbox I always try to start with a gearbox if my model would feature one. The idea was to make it simple, yet robust. In order to achieve it, I needed to make sure each important gear will be supported by another. My other goal was to make a gearbox with a wide range of gear ratios, so at least for example 1:1 - 1st gear and 1:3 - 2nd gear. The Gearbox I use worked well in my previous concept model I didn't present here. Final gear ratios are: 1st gear: 63.787:1 2nd gear: 16.329:1 3.9 times difference between first and second gear! Now you may ask how I achieved this based just on a picture below, but we will get into that later. Axles I went through massive amount of research to have a working concept of both front and rear axle, that is driveable, able to turn (front axle) and also featuring locking mechanism somewhere. None of the concepts on the Internet were actually fitting my model. I do not have small technic pistons (I am looking at you Lego Technic Emirates), and it didn't seem I would have a chance of finding something different that will work in my case (rc car). I also knew I would use geek-servo for locking system, so only 90-degree turn must provide option for locking and unlocking mechanism. Gray 2L driving ring is actually a new one - 2473. It is not yet added to Lego studio, but the existing ring was working for me just fine. With that concept of the axle, I just needed to make sure the upper steering arm is angled, because other way it would collide with the gears. That angle is perfectly calculated, so I could work on finishing the axle, adding steering (for the front) and most importantly - locking differential mechanism. The finished front axle features: 2x 9.5L hard springs, 3x steering arms to cooperate with springs, 4x steering links, lockable differential mechanism. Did I tell you this was my own first solid axle build attempt? I guess it may be called multi-link suspension, but you have to correct me on that one. Locking differential mechanism on axles As you probably already noticed, this whole model is based around locking differentials functionality. When I was organizing my parts, I came upon instruction of my CADA C61006W, which featured locking differentials in similar scale. The idea of having one gear turning around 90 degree and pushing by it two different gear racks at the same time was splendid. That movement could rotate 6641 Changeover patch part, and thus lock and unlock 2L differential, that was the key of my goal. I went to the drawing board and after some time I created this. As you can see, If I would rotate 12T black gear to the left around 90-degree, it would push by using 6641 and 64781 parts the 2L 2473 driving ring. I just needed to make sure pivot points are correct, so the mechanism wouldn't move unnecessarily during suspension work. Chassis It needed to be as symmetrical as possible, due to previously mention features. I simply wanted it to be robust. I do not focus much on exterior or accessories - it just adds unnecessary weight to the model. The chassis also needs to have all points to attach both axles to. Body Let me just start with one sentence, I am not proud of the body. I am also not a great body sculptor. The overall design was based on Ford Bronco Badlands from 2021, but I only planned wheelbase and door placement around it. The rest was improvised, simply because I don't like rebuilding 1:1 real cars in Lego. The body is detachable and features opening doors and hood. Power system and drivetrain Ah yes, we are approaching icing on a cake. The model is, like I already mentioned, powered by A2212 1000kv BL motor. It also features 3x geek-servos: steering, changing gears and locking differentials. On top of that, I developed some sort of RC-hub (mostly because I want to organize everything in one place). This hub contains 3s battery, receiver and esc. It also features Lego Technic dimensions: 9x9x4 studs. If you want to know more about all of that, check out Brushless motors in the lego world - general topic. As you can see in the top right corner, there is an A2212 motor directly hooked to the planetary hub. This way revolutions are downgraded to let's say civilized number (from 11100 RPM to about 2000 RPM - similar to buggy motor in fast output). This also provide us built up torque, which we will for sure need in off-roading. Summary I am really proud of this model. Especially because it taught me many new things in Lego Technic world. I believe some of you can also learn from my problems and how I approached them. Here are some numbers that may interest you: Weight: 1.590 kg Length, width, height: 43x19.4x16.9cm Theoretical max speed 1st gear: 2.67km/h Theoretical max speed 2nd gear: 10.44km/h Soon I will be able to record some footage of all the features of the car and of course playtime! For now, I have more photos and GALLERY for you. -
Hi Eurobrickers! This time I'm here with my first build that explores non-lego electronics components for maximum off-road performance :) I have always been curious about what proper RC electronics could do with Lego, how far the performance could be pushed without damaging lego parts or using metal parts. So this is the first chapter in this exploration. As usual, I am more interested in off-road stuff as opposed to super fast cars, such as crawling, precision, maneuverability and good suspension. I start on a fairly large scale for two reasons. One is to see what the electronics and the parts can handle, and second is that on this scale I can maximize the performance os suspension / drivetrain. For crawling, live axles are great, planetary hubs are a must to minimize the stress on drivetrain components, and on this scale the axle design of @Attika is superior, especially with deep rims and 95mm RC tires, so I started with adopting that to my needs and building a generic chassis around them and the electronics components. For the bodywork, I choose a truggy because they are designed for crawling and are typically minimalistic, which is good for weight saving. And when I started searching for truggies, most of what I found turned out to be a Toyota Hilux, so I just went with that. The largest wheel arches are a good match for 95mm tires, and dark blue was a color in which they are available and I already had many parts in, so it was an easy choice. Features All wheel drive with about 6.5% front wheel overdrive Triangulated long travel 4-link live axle suspension on both axles Independent 4-wheel steering, servos on the axles Detachable body (single piece), openable doors Custom electronics Buggy motors inside L motor housing for drive GeekServos for steering Injora ESC 3s LiPo RC receiver and transmitter (FlySky) Custom cables with PF connectors Chassis, suspension, drivetrain I started with the design of the axles based on that of @Attika with the planetary hubs, but I made them 4 studs wider wrt the original 17 stud design because of using the deeper rims and also for a wider stance. My main objective was to integrate the GeekServo on top of it. A key simplification factor I used is the lack of open differentials (would be locked for crawling anyway), this way reducing the space requirement of the gearing, and allowing a flatter profile and lowering the servo while fixing it in a simple and solid way. The steering linkage has really small amount of slack, and the 8T gear on the rack allows very powerful steering. In fact the GeekServo is so strong (especially in this configuration), it can steer the wheel under any circumstances on any surface I tested. On the rear axle, I managed to lower the springs for a more compact suspension to leave space for the bed above it. The suspension is a 4-link triangulated one using 9L links that keeps the axles in place even without a panhard rod. In the drivetrain I wanted to experiment with front wheel overdrive. First I built one with 25% overdrive using 16:16 gearing on the back and 20:16 gearing on the front. It worked, however it felt a bit too much and was not flawless; the 20:16 gearing offset the front driveshaft to the side which created an asymmetric load at the point of the driveshaft entering the front axle which generated quite some wear over time. Also, first I used 12:12 gearing inside the axle as a closed differential, which also worn out after some time. After seeing an RC video that tested 5-6% overdrive against 25-30% overdrive, and concluded that significantly more than 5-6% is not really beneficial for climbing, I thought I'd try a more modest one. The current one on the image below uses 20:12 = 5:3 gearing in the front, and 2 stages of 20:16 gearing on the rear, resulting in 25:16 ratio. The ratio of the front/rear is then 16:15 = 1.0666, so roughly 6.5%. Most importantly, this setup is symmetric, keeping both ends of the driveshaft centered. At the same time I used a 12:20 gearing inside the axle as a differential, taking some load off. So far it has not cracked.. Here is the overall chassis. The motors look like L motors, but they have their insides replaced with that of a buggy motor, as that has the same size as the L motor's, so fits perfectly. This modification is not my own, but was done by @Jantayg and he lent me the motors for testing (the pinion gear was replaced and the thermistor was taken off and soldered back in). They are quite amazing. I measured their speed and torque against the Lego L motors, and found that they have about 1.8x speed and 1.65x torque, so almost 3x power overall!! At the same time, their speed is also in a very reasonable range, about 900 RPM on a 3s LiPo, which means good speed control but a good amount of punch at the same time, quite perfect for lego crawlers. All in a very good form factor! I only wish such a motor was available off the shelf. Luckily, the red chinese PF replicas you can find on Aliexpress approach these ones in performance; I ordered some and measured that they have about 2.5x the power of a lego L motor, only a bit worse then these modified ones. I haven't yet tested those in a build though.. Control Electronics For control, I am using this Injora ESC. It's quite small, about 5x3x1 studs in a nice housing that can be easily attached to Lego parts with sticky tacks and has a turn-on button and status LED. It is designed for smaller scale RC crawlers, but for lego motors it is more than enough, and allows for quite precise speed control. In fact, in the video the model often moves slowly not because that is its max speed, but because I wanted to move with precision; its top speed is much faster than that. Apart from that I use a FlySky transmitter and receiver, and a 3s LiPo. I also had to make some custom cables for connecting the motors to the ESC and splitting the output of the ESC for the two motors to avoid stacking them on the same PF port (I made several versions). Unfortunately, currently the cables result in a bit of a mess.. It would be nice to house these electronics in a 3d printed box or something.. Bodywork For the bodywork, I was aiming for something simple but rugged, but at the same time I wanted to test how the whole setup would work with some actual weight, whether I can later try to build a more detailed scale model at this large scale. I really like 95mm tires, both Lego and RC ones (I bought these inexpensive ones from Aliexpress, option TN1003), as they go really well with large 15 stud fender parts, both the Defender ones and the ones from sports cars. So as I mentioned in the intro, a Toyota Hilux truggy seemed like a good choice, and the Bugatti fenders went well with that, along with some long curved slopes for the hood available in dark blue. I wanted to replicate the characteristic front grille, which I managed by using large window pieces and a lot of small grille parts :) The rest of the body is a just a few large panels and beams, and a simple bed to accompany it with some roll-bars, all connected together to a single piece so that it can be mounted in the chassis on a few points, like in a 'real' RC car. Here are some more renders and images of the complete model. More images are available on Bricksafe. I haven't made instructions for this because of the large amount of custom parts, but the Studio model is available on Rebrickable. Altogether, the model has very good handling, both for speed and steering, and I am quite satisfied with the power of the motors. This all shows to me that Lego RC has much more potential, than the official electronics. And out of all these components, the only 'dangerous' one for the plastic parts are the powerful the motors, but even that danger is minimal in this setup; for smaller models it would even be less (even with this heavy model, the wheels rather spin under it than get stalled). It was really fun playing with this model and making all these video footages! Let me know how you like it and what you think about all those possibilities with custom electronics! Cheers, Viktor
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Hi everyone. I’d like to introduce to you my latest MOC: Technic RC Pneumatic Dump Truck. It is on 1:17 scale, weighing in at 4.32kg with just over 5,000 parts. It is loosely inspired by the SinoTruk Howo 8 x 4 Tipper Twin Steer. I would love to get your thoughts & feedback! More pictures on Flickr HERE Instructions: BuWizz, 2.4GHz Feature Summary Powered by 2 x BuWizz 2.0 or 2.4GHz Box. RC Drive 8 x 8. RC Twin Steering. Springless Live Axle Suspension Front & Rear with maximum roll stability. RC Compressor. RC Pneumatic Functions. Tip Dump Bed & Driver Cab independently. Dump Bed Automatic Gate Lock with optional Manual Override. Opening Doors with Spring-Loaded Latch. Foot Pedals (Brake & Accelerator), Signal Levers, Gear Shifter, Air Horn Chain, Ignition Key, opening Glove Compartment. Working In-Line 6 Cylinder Engine (Connected to Drive Shaft) Working Steering Wheel full-time, even when Cab is tipped. Opening Hood, revealing Engine Fan. Adjustable Sun Visors, Mirrors, Windshield Wipers. Technic Figure Compatibility. Locking Feature to secure Dump Bed & Driver Cab to Frame to add rigidity & facilitate ease of model transport. Video Comparison Pictures Locomotion All motorized functions are powered by dual BuWizz 2.0 or 2.4GHz Units integrated into the Cab. The model features RC Drive, with a full 8 x 8 train. Propulsion is delivered by 4 x PF XL Motors, geared down at 2 to 1 with the help of Planetary Hubs. There are no Center Differentials, which ensures that all 4 axles are driven full-time. The drive train is also connected to a (cosmetic) inline 6-cylinder Engine, complete with a fan. With an empty Bed, the weight distribution is closer to the front, which limits the traction on the rear wheels. In practice, the 8 x 8 drive configuration results in much better outdoor & overall performance (particularly over uneven terrain). Individual axle-mounted PF Servo Motors steer the Truck through a Rack & Pinion system, & this is independent of Suspension flex. Axle 1 (forward) has a tighter turning radius than Axle 2. There is a mechanical linkage connecting the system to the Steering Wheel in the Driver Cab with a +/- 167 deg range for a more realistic look. This function remains operational even when the Cab is tipped. Suspension All 4 Axles feature Live Suspension. Both the front & rear wheel sets are connected in tandem, similar to a Walking Beam configuration. By combining traverse & longitudinal pendular levers, articulation is achieved without the use of shock absorbers. This also offers maximum roll stability for high center-of-gravity applications. This idea was inspired by the All Terrain Crane by @Jennifer Clark. Pneumatic System The Pneumatic Circuit uses compressed air to control the pistons that operate the Bed & Driver Cab tipping functions. A Compressor generates pressurized air that is then redirected towards the pistons through corresponding switches. At the heart of the Pneumatic system is the Air Compressor. It is driven by a PF L Motor using 2 Pumps aligned out of phase for smooth flow. Compressed Air is fed to the Pneumatic Switches that control the tipping functions. The model features 2 Pneumatic functions: Tip Driver Cab & Tip Dump Bed. The air supply from the Compressor is redirected through Pneumatic Switches, which in turn control the Pneumatic Pistons that operate the functions. The Switches are activated by PF Servo Motors. With the Compressor turned on to supply airflow, the Servo angle (-90, 0, 90) corresponds to the Switch positions (-1, 0, 1), which then moves the Pneumatic Pistons as (retract, neutral, extend). Full credit to @functionalTechnic for the original RC Pneumatic Servo set-up. The Dump Bed tips at up to 45 deg & has a lifting capacity of 2.5 kg, with a total volume of 3,623 cubic cm. Gate Lock The Dump Bed contains a gravity-based Lever that automatically releases the Gate as soon as tipping begins. Conversely, it is timed to lock the Gate once the Bed is horizontal. An optional pin is included that secures the Lever in position so that it doesn’t release the Gate upon tipping. Driver Cab Details The Driver Cab features functional doors with a spring-loaded mechanical linkage to open & lock them. This mechanism fits in a single stud width & once locked, the door is fully constrained to the Cab. The driver side contains Foot Pedals (Brake & Accelerator), Air Horn, Signals, Ignition Key, Gear Shift Lever. The Windshield Wipers, Mirrors & Sun Visors are all independently adjustable. The Hood on the front opens to reveal a working Engine Fan. Finally, Technic Figure compatibility has been maintained using vintage seats. Admittedly the Technician scale isn’t 100% accurate, but it is never a bad idea to include them. Locking Elements Both the Driver Cab & Dump Bed feature locking mechanisms that reinforce the tipping functions. This is ideal for model transport, where it can be easily lifted from above from any of the sections. Typically, it would be carried from beneath or by holding the front & back. Aftermarket Tires While the standard 62.4 x 20 tires work well, but the RC4WD 1.2” variants have always been preferrable. They are a bit larger & have a more rugged look overall. Due to the weight of the model, the supplied foam inserts were not sufficient for the tires to retain their shape. To overcome this, custom inserts were designed & 3D Printed for the Dirt Grabber option. They consist of symmetrical halves that are joined together on the rim & secured with Technic ½ Pins. The ID features inner shoulders that prevent lateral movement relative to the rim. More Pictures -
Hi, As a winter project I'm working on a 4WD RC buggy. It will be heavily inspired by @agrof's Class 1 Ultimate Buggy, for I very much like the behaviour and the looks of that model. With this model I will also deliver to my promise to @DugaldIC to make an RC model. I was planning on finishing this MOC without a WIP topic, but I simply can't work without the feedback . It will have 4 L-motors and 1 servo motor. No buggy motors, for I will be using current-date parts only. Control will be done with SBrick. Sofar I have been working on the axles. The rear axles are very much inspired by agrof's model, but this time everything relies on perfect fits. They rely on the Pythagorean triple (5,12,13). The front axles are my very own addition to this model: 2 L-motors are integrated in the double-wishbone setup. Making everything rely on perfect fits, is one of my main challenges. The second challenge is to make everything relevant form-locked. And of course the model needs to perform. All wheel hubs are turn-table/u-joint based: Sofar I have only been designing digitally, but I did check the most essential constructions in real life already. I will show progress when ever I have something to show. If you have any comments, feel free to reply. I'm new to motorized building so I can use some feedback.
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Hi Eurobrickers! I'm back with the new MOC - this time it's a new Mammoet SK 6000 crane! Current configutation is Mammoet SK6000 + Mammoet SK350 Fixed jib (which is compatible in real life) Original ring crane was just recently released by Mammoet in Netherlads! This is fan work. For built used only open source resources from WEB! Ok, also this MOC was built with unofficial consulting with Mammoet engineers, because it was a lack of the info in WEB, so I have to ask some thiings to match the real masterpiece crane. UPD: I was invited to the real crane's world presentation on last (or prevois) Friday to the Netherlads with my Crane MOC to show it at the mass media day near the real SK6000! Unfortunately I was on vacation that time and lost this once in a lifetime chance.. How it works: Centered counterweight is fixed and non movable, around it there are two train racks (imne are almost 180 degrees), so the crane is rotating arong the ballast. Real SK6000 does not have it, but from SK350 I took the jib which was surprisely fix and not luffing - it has no adjustments. Machine is able to lift 6000 tons and lift 2000 tons at the lenght of the footbal field from the basis !! The main feature of this crane is that it does not use winch to operate the boom - it uses special mechanism with chain, so I implemented this also :) Please enjoy the video first: Built with genuine Lego technic parts + 3rd party strings + 2 BuWizzBrick 's. I refused using trixbrix curved rails because found a solution with genuine lego parts. The model has 7500 parts which makes it the biggest MOC in my career! It has 8 L motors for smooth operating, powered by two buwizzes. Crane weights 8,3 Kg excluding power sources (battery boxes) and counterweights!! And the height is about 2.3-2.4 meters. More images are available: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aleh/mammoetsk6000 Building instructions already available. Built took 1760 steps, which required a lot of effort to prepare it. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-195537/OleJka/mammoet-sk6000/#details
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Hey everyone, CrazyKreations Here is my entry into the Tc27 Moc Competition, an Aussie pickup truck with a camper trailer! We have always wanted to create a small-scale truck with 4WD, Control Plus and a special rear tray that replaces the traditional ute bed, giving this truck a more Australian style. In WA there are sooooooo many of these beautiful vehicles that go offroad every single day! (they are just pavement princesses) I wanted to add my spin on the classic pickup truck and show how this purpose-built vehicle is useful and cool, so please follow the thread below everyone, I would really appreciate it! I want to have at least the basic features below: Opening Doors, Partially opening hood Springless Front Torsion Bar suspension with inbuilt motor for steering Springless Rear reinforced axle using Torsion Bars 4-wheel drivetrain with locked differentials Multiple front bumper attachments, (3+ different bumpers to choose from) Snorkel Running Boards Fog Lights Detailed Interior Tradie tray with 5+ opening compartments including a; slide-out drawer 4 opening compartments Large canopy with separated sections for storage Slide out coffee machine and table that folds out of the tray. (Yes, it's a must) I have a few photo examples of the sort of design that I am going for and one of them looks like this: Anyway, I have this week off and next off, so I will use this time to build as much as possible and update you guys. So, my first update is the axles I am using... I wanted to incorporate springless suspension because it is more compact and also is better for the weight of the vehicle as all the attachments will make the vehicle a bit too heavy at the back. The front and rear axles are here below, I'll probably update the chassis later today or maybe tomorrow actually but please stay tuned. (I have time on my hands so I decided to put this image through Canva and mesh it into 1) Both axles are around 13 studs wide and fit the wheels that the competition allows. -
Hey everyone! Today I present to you: My RC tracked snowplow! For propulsion, I used 1 Spike Prime M-Motor to drive each tread with a 1.67:1 gear ratio. This enables it to make a perfect zero point turn. The two Control+ M-Motors seen above control the lifting and angling of the plow blade via two large linear actuators. The plow is easily removed by pulling the red 6L axle out of the front teal axle-pin connectors in the center of the plow and disconnecting the 5L black liftarm connected to the linear actuator that controls the blade angle. The hub is accessible by lifting the roof, and the blade can be easily stored inside the vehicle: Here are photos of the code and control panel: I did not make instructions for this, BUT I am planning on making a similar vehicle: a tracked RC offroader. Although it will be similar, there will be some major differences and upgrades. I DO plan to make instructions for that.
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I started playing around with the idea of European style semi truck again. I built a prototype to test the chassis design with motors side by side. The core idea here is that both motors are oriented towards back so you can put the medium Technic frame on top of them as well as have cables managed up front. EDIT: final version of the semi: Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-90482 (RC Semi Tractor) https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-90484 (Box Trailer) Update: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-152433 (Manual Semi Tractor) The first iteration/prototype: Prototype showcase: It'll take some time before I'll finish the whole semi truck build, but I prepared the instructions for the chassis so you can build it. Instructions are available for free on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86118 Sneak peek of the instructions: -
Hi, I would like to present you my first MOC prepared especially for official LugPOL Truck Trial Championship. MOC is based on very famous, polish truck with good off-road capabilities - Star 266. I choose polish truck to introduce some local technology to the competition dominated by soviet machines. Instructions are free of charge, so if you have parts and some time, you can enjoy off-roading with this model pretty easy. LINK Here are my priorities when designing this truck: to fulfill LugPOL Truck Trial Championship rules and to provide truck which will be accepted by judges to prepare truck with good off-road capabilities to build it to make it recognizable Couple of LTTC rules: scale: 1:12 to 1:14 number and type of axles true to the real machine type of suspension true to the real machine must be RC and all-wheel drive the truck's cabin true to real machine, with roof, seats, steering wheel, floor and with openable doors All above rules were fulfilled, below there are couple of more details: scale: 1:12 drive: 2x PF XLs coupled, if necessary, each wheel can harness power of two XL motors steering: PF L motor weight: ~1990g dimensions: W x L x H: 25 x 64,5 x 32,5 studs (width without wheels and tires) Star is powered by Buwizz 2.0, but since it uses only PF motors in very simple configuration, it can be powered by anything you have Truck was designed to work with 96mm Tamiya CC01 tires, and those tires you will see on the video. But in the instruction I used the closest in case of size official Lego tires. You can of course put bigger tires, like Lego tractor tires: 107mm, but some rubbing during extreme off-roading is possible. Couple words on the truck itself: Star 266 took part in two competitions in 2023, so it is well tested, any minor issues were eliminated and I'm convinced, that it can be used in hard terrain without any worries. It is rather simple construction, to reduce the weight. Details are there mostly to be able to fulfill competitions requirements. The truck is the mix of many ideas I had during designing and I wanted to test during proper, official competitions. Some of them proved to be hard terrain effective, some of them, not. So this is for sure not the ideal trial truck. But it is not afraid of outdoor obstacles, mud, dirt, stones etc. Pros of Star 266: high ground clearance (7 studs with 96mm tires) high approach, break over and departure angles highly response suspension with long travel to fast and precise surface adaptation each axle is connected directly to coupled 2 PF XL motors, which allows to stable, equal speed of all wheels and provides (when needed) all available power for the wheel which needs it the most steering is done with PF L motor for speed and strength, possible steering angles are > 45 degrees per site Cons of Star 266: turntables used in each wheel introduce friction, quite a lot of it, I highly recommend to try to reduced it as much as possible (I advise to use a bit of sanding or lubrication, or both) due to lack of any shock absorption, stability is only on decent level truck's cabin shape and location is not the best in case easy passing the gates during competition, but this is my personal opinion Internals of the MOC, so drivetrain and steering with motor on front axle More photos: https://bricksafe.com/pages/keymaker/trial-truck-star-266 -
This is my next MOC: Monster Truck MK4 Features: - 4x4 transmission - Buggy Motor (MK) for drive - Servo Motor (MK) for steering - Mould King 4.0 for power and control - Dependent suspension - Modular construction Video: One more image: Instruction: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-187804/paave/monster-truck-mk4 -
A bit background about the last few months of tinkering: Some might have seen that a few users, including me, experimented with small non lego/bricks brushless motors and rc parts to build either smaller cars or trophy trucks. I had my own shot on a trophy truck but sadly at that scale some problems couldn't be solved properly. One of those problems was the wheel mounting, i did use hubs with ball bearings from Zenebricks, but with just pins holding them, they would still come of at higher corner speeds. But i didn't want to give up on fusing RC components and bricks, as i love rc cars and i love building stuff. So i thought maybe even with reinforcements a live axle/multilink suspension at RC speeds and offroad just won't work as i want. That's when i thought ok, then maybe some proper on-road or rally car, best with awd or at least 4wd to get more traction and stability. At that point i only had the Zene wheelhubs with bearings and some might have read the conversation about them, they are not suited for a driven and steered axle. I tried to solve that problem but it boiled down to the fact that i needed at least one custom part, either a shortened/custom u-joint or something else. And as i knew that m3 screws fit well into pins i figured that RC parts that are mounted with m3 screws might fit the lego system aswell, so i ordered some cheap tamiya parts as those are widly available and it did fit well. That set the direction for my experiments, fusing RC wheelhups with Lego/Bricks. But wait..they can't connect to Lego axles, so i needed an adapter. I found someone who helped me with a proper cad design and specs, as some of you might have seen in the brushless post, and i ordered some parts. I got them 2 weeks ago and it all worked so well and i build a small prototype. The advantages for me were/are huge, for one, except for the custom parts every other RC part is cheap to replace, all 4 wheelhups cost less than 10€ together. I can replace worn out ballbearings in the hub(and i can clean them) for very little money and there is almost no slack at all in the stearing. Apart from that, by using toe-in/out can be adjusted, left and right wheel steering can be adjusted and the big problem was solved..RC car tires are secured with a proper nut and won't just come of that easy. Fast forward, after all that text, here are some screens: More screens here -> Bricksafe gallery That is my current prototype chassis, currently with on-road touring tires with 82mm diameter. The whole layout is roughtly oriented on most on-road RC cars, except that i choose to center the motor to move it further back and get some weight on the rear axle. Also i choose to not use geekservos even thou it complicated the steering setup but with all that traction i was worried that the geekservo wasn't strong enough. Also i need them for another project, so i put in a cheaper 15kg servo. Features: AWD Adjustable ride height Adjustable steering Adjustable toe-in/out RC shock absorbers Aluminium axles Zene metal differentials Uses common 12mm (1:10 scale) hex mounts for wheels Internal gear ratio is 7.95:1 (spur and diffs) 3250kv brushless motor on 2s (3s possible) 82mm tires And now for the magic custom part: That small part provides the connection between how RC wheels are driven and the lego system and are currently made out of aluminium. It offers a 1 stud long axle part so any axle connector can be attached, be it an common axle connector or a u-joint. The movement range is a bit more than the old lego cv's, i would say about 40 degrees, but that also depends a bit on the RC axle part. A 2mm driveshaft pin needs to be pressed through the hole at the ball end, i designed it that way cause it's easier to manufacture and the pins tend to wear out after some time, so this way i could replace them. There you can see how it's used an the mentioned driveshaft pin that needs to be pressed in. They do need some space to move that's why there is an o ring in the RC axle and a small spring that pushes the driveshaft in a bit. That was only neccessary for the front axle as there is more movement. A first testdrive showed that all the work was worth it. The prototype is fast, stable and fun to drive until a screw(metal 2l pin substitude from a uk shop) got loose cause it was the only screw where i forgot to use locktide :D Next would be more testing and deciding what kind of bodywork i want to do. From the dimensions it's based on a Subaru Impreza WRC but a Skyline should fit aswell. Think it all depends on whether i can find good 80mm rally tires or not. Feel free to ask questions and discuss and thanks for all the fish. Edit: Had finally the opportunity to make a shot vid. Sadly a 2L axle at the front left drivetrain broke, rendering the whole thing into rwd. Think that was an old brittle part and broke on a 360spin, but then again i added those weakspots on purpose to have cheap and easy to replace points of failure. So that testrun was on 2S LiPo and abour 50-60% throttle. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Cuvu2y7sEfA
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One BuWizz, it's good. But two, it's better, because you can make MOCs having 8 functions! I have already done a full RC compact excavator, but with LEGO IR receivers. I wanted do make another excavator without the gearbox allowing to choose between the rotation of the arm and the pneumatic pump. Furthermore, the M motors were just enough powerful to move the arm. On this new excavator, it's different. I tried to make the mecanic as compact as possible. And the arm is controlled with more powerful motors: 1 L and 1 XL. So now you can... dig on gravel with a GoPro attached on the arm, and the motors bear that easily! There is a good speed and so much power to do anything you want! For the design, I tried to cover the maximum and I kept a color scheme close to the one of my previous excavator. To switch on the BuWizz of the turret, you need to open the part behind the cab. The hood is also openable, but there is nothing interesting to see. ^^ So the functions are: -> Controlled by the bottom BuWizz: Left track (M motor) Right track (M motor) Blade (M motor) LEDs (of the cab and the arm) -> Controlled by the BuWizz of the turret: Turn table (L motor) 1st part of the arm (XL motor) 2nd part of the arm (L motor) Bucket (M motor) You have certainly noticed that there are shock absorbers. It's for the tension of the tracks. The LEDs: And the video! The BuWizz are in Fast mode and I used the app BrickController, done by @imurvai. It's perfect for this MOC! -
So I was working on a simple rc program on my computer today with my new 51515 set and was trying to make it rc using the keyboard (up arrow=forward down arrow=reverse left arrow=left right arrow=right) But it is hard because there is no "when no key pressed" block to my knowledge. The robot I am using is THIS. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -
Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I have been busy with my latest model, the WWII German prototype vehicle E-100. This one being my second rendition of it since 4 years ago, when I started building MOCs. This one is smaller and greatly improved scale accuracy. more information and photos on my blog. http://tommystyrvoky.blogspot.com/2018/02/e-100-super-heavy-tank.html instructions https://www.rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-13061/TommyStyrvoky/rc-e-100-super-heavy-tank/#comments The process of rendering all of the animations for this video took some time, as I rendered all of this on my laptop, the end result, each frame requiring about 5 minutes at only 720p , and well there are a few thousand frames rendered for the animations, and I also completely redid my channel outro with the new PBR shaders from Meccabricks. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr And after all of that time rendering I realized that I forgot to include the second turret hatch... This is probably one of my most accurate vehicles so far, given the constraints of lego, and the mechanical challenges. Though I am still striving to do better in the future. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr and a comparison with blueprints from the real one. E-100 Blueprint overlay by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr -
Hey! Check out my Lego Boeing 737-600! Working: aileron, rudder, elevator, control column RC: flaps, slats, spoilers, landing gear, thrust reverser Length: 110 cm Wingspan: 125 cm Height: 40 cm Weight: 2,8 kg Video here:
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Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT -
Once i wanted to make a baja truck, and i failed. though as you should do in life, i stood up and tried again. and suddenly, i had a frame. and a 'little' later i had a baja truck. fuctions: Full suspension: Front; double wishbone (travel: 1.5 studs) Rear: live axle (travel: 5 studs) RTC steering (Servo motor) RWD (XL-motor) Full RC I started making a front suspension which had to be soft and a good height clearance and RTC stearing. After a while i had a very sturdy stearing module, so i started making the rear axle.The XL motor is mounted on the live axle. it has a 1.66:1 which gives it a speed of 243.4 RPM and 8.7 N.cm. of torque. I used the short steering link to make the suspension freëer then used the 3X5 L links to connect to the springs. The battery is pretty high above the center of mass, but it doesn't affect the performance weardly. the IR receiver is possitioned just under the widnshield which makes it pretty easy to reach. The body is made out of 3 pieces, The bumper, a nose scoop and the rest of the body. the body is connected in 14 points to the chassis, the scoop only at 2 and the bumper in 6 places. I might do instructions on the chassis, but i don't know if i will on the body (only if enough demand). Greetz TNLD more pictures:https://flic.kr/s/aHskvfPA6Y LXF file of the chassis: http://www.mediafire.com/file/2w3uet74f11bamk/Baja_Truck.lxf -
Here's my replica MOC of 42056 set: Porsche 911 GT3 RS in medium scale You can see many references to original set design and the Power Function system. Check the video: The model has: - PF: 2L, Servo, IRv2, LiPo - Full independent suspension - Floating differential at the rear - Opening doors, bonnet, trunk - Adjustable seats. The car is a pleasure to drive: It is quite fast and manoeuvre. Building Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-12532/paave/porsche-911-gt3-rs/
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