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You know when you build a huge MOC and your lamplight doesn't illuminate the whole thing and you have to constantly aim and re-aim the lamp? You might not know it but this adds no less than 42 minutes to your overall build time! Outrageous! Luckily, I've found the solution: The video may be left to speak for itself: Now the build is pretty simple. The base was the toughest part. Getting two independant spinning axles througha turntable while keeping the area nice and clean! The whole structure rests on four tyres to eliminate vibration and the resulting sound. the bulb is clamped by a worm and 8-tooth gear. I did not alter any bricks to fit the bulb and the bulb can be taken out at any time if anyone requires a purely LEGO lamp. And who would dare! The lampshade is how it is because the lighbulb was very mean and melted through the system bricks that formed the first prototype. It brought a respectable amount of tears to my eye. This new framy lampshade has endured over two hours of maths homework with no sign of wear! Now, the programming did require some little thought. The aim in the vertical plane is done through a load of trigonometry, while the horizontal aim works directly with the IR sensor's "beacon heading" output. One thought I'm particularly proud of is my use of squared and cubed values to slow the motor down as they approach their desired positions, thereby eliminating any shaking from hesitation or even indicision! That's all I have to say but I'll be more than happy to answer any question from a fellow moving-LEGO-lamp enthusiast, if there ever was such a thing! Please check out my Wind-up Robot on LEGO IDEAS! Thank you, for reading my words! -
Hi guys! At least I has finished my next MOC and want to introduced the finished model to all of you! Welcome my International Lonestar truck! It's dimensions are: - Lengh: 101 stud or 80 cm - Width: 31 studs or 25 cm without mirrors - High: 37 studs or 30 cm excluding antennas and exhaust pipes. It consists of more than 5000 Lego parts, including 9 motors. It has: - Great Charbel's 8 speed gearbox, modified by me to the 16 speed one by adding high/low gear to the main output. It has a special shifter. It's all RC. - Independant powerfull pneumatic brakes on each wheel. Inspired by Sheepo's Peterbilt. - Pneumatically controlled fifth wheel. - Independant suspencion on front and dependant one on the rear axles. - Suspended driver's and passenger's seats, doors with locks and shock absorbers. - Detalized interior. - Inline 6 cylinder engine like the real truck. Power functions is described at the picture below, I think this is more interesting than just to read. Also I include pneumatics sheme. Enjoy the pictures please, I hope some video will apear nowadays. Unfortunately, rear differentials can't cope with such a huge torgue and truck cant drive fast on the floor, sorry. Please visit my Bricksafe page for more photo. Building instructions are available here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-9788/OleJka/international-lonestar-truck/#comments VIDEO AVAILABLE NOW!! -
Hi all, A little presentation of my LEGO Forwarder named XXL for obvious reasons :) It has been a project in my spare time for some years now and still not finished (probably never will be...) Most basic facts: Weight: 6,7 kilograms Dimensions: 95xx36x50 studs Drive: 8 XL motors + hub reduction Steering: Forced by controlling front left with rear right and the other way around (because of the weight in combination with the huge friction from the wheels) Wheels: From 8466 (4x4 Offroader) Some vids from Youtube: Feel free to comment or ask questions, I´ll try to answer them :) -
I'm not really a regular truck builder, but I like to think of new systems that do not exist in real life yet but that do improve the life of, for example, truck drivers. When something like a big tarmac machine has to drive onto a trailer to go to the next building site, the slope of the trailer should be very small. That small slope is nowadays achieved by making very large ramps that fold up vertically for transport, causing massive air resistance and therefore unnecessary fuel consumption. A way to make these ramps shorter is to decrease the bed height, because that asks for smaller vertical ramps. The second option is making the wheels below the bed smaller. But decreasing the wheel diameter increases the rolling resistance. Another way to solve the problem is placing the bed betweeen the wheels, so that it can be much lower, but that limits the cargo width: the tarmac machine can never be wider than the bed width, which is not handy if truckdriver x has to transport many different tarmac machines. Read the rest of the story and how I solved these problems with my my DAF CF with 3-axle trailer on http://mocpages.com/moc.php/421622 Or watch the video here: To give an idea of the model, I have posted one photo below, the others can be found on http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=560197 in a better resolution.[/font][/size] -
So this was a quick, fun project. I gave myself the weekend to build the smallest RC car I could. My goal was 4 studs. This seemed reasonable since a battery box and SBrick are both 4 studs wide. With the width set in place, I quickly realized that making two connected parts would be the way to go so the model naturally became a camper van/RV with a trailer. The main car holds 2 micromotors and the trailer has 1 old-style battery box with the SBrick directly on top. More photo's here. Assembly photos are here. PS: I must also thank Mbmc as some of his micro RC MOCs were a good inspiration for this project. -
Hi guys, I've had a chance to test a prototype of a BuWizz - an interesting device that combines remote control unit which allows controlling stuff with your phone AND a power supply which is surprisingly powerful. My video test is below, keep in mind that this is a prototype and you can make the finished product happen by supporting it at Kickstarter: https://www.kickstar...for-lego-models Project website: http://buwizz.com/ -
This is R.O.R.S.H.A.H Robot Of Remote Speech Human-connection And Handshake EXPLANING THE IDEA Well. this is not just another MOC which sole purpose is to collect dust on a shelf. No. This one has a real purpose and it is been in use in my family for quite a while now. As you all very well know, there are all this pandemic thing around the globe. And because of it a lot of people lockdown-ed in different countries and not able to travel to meet their relatives and friends even on holidays. So, to solve this problem at least a bit, a have created this little one. It is not actually a robot, but wheeled platform with attach point for tablet. Idea itself is not anything new, as example, you may know BUDDY the Emotional Robot by French company Blue Frog Robotics, model of which I once have made. Point is that actual robots are complicated (include more than just that function), not close as cheap as even big lego technic sets, rarely customizable and not available on market or can be purchased by only very big hospitals with political connection or smth like that. Lego on the other hand is affordable (mostly) and easy to use. So, why not to use it instead! WHAT YOU WILL NEED To build yourself such a Robot you will need: -At least two motors for each wheel -Optional third motor for tilting tablet -Optional fourth motor for extra function -SmartHub -Two wheels (use may use whichever you want, but narrow ones are better choice) -A bunch of technic parts to build the chassis -Smartphone to control the robot -Tablet or second smartphone for videocall HOW TO USE IT The idea is simple, imagine, that you have a family member or friend who has stucked in other city or country. But you want him to be present on family gathering, usually you would connect with him via videocall, which is good,but boring - as he will be present only as picture on the screen. Why not to place tablet with opened videocall on a wheeled platform and give the person on the screen an ability to control this platform. Such he will have some kind of a free will of movement around your table or floor. This is a purpose of such robots - and of this one too. After you've built your own RORSHAH - you should set an interface to control it in app that you prefer to use - my app of choice is ControlZ Then you should share the screen of your phone with the person you want to use the robot. (I recommend using Parsec - as it is free) - make sure to share the screen in app that allows to control scren via sharing. After this you make a videocall and place tablet with active call on your robot - and voi là - your friend can see you,talk to you,drive around your room,look around and even shake your hand! Here is the video,demonstrating RORSHAH in use: Thanks for watching! P.S. What do you think? As for me - this is really useful invention which really enhances connection between people divided by borders. -
Hello My first post here. Found some posts regarding the comparison of Powered Up (PU) and Power Functions (PF), but it was rather related to Technic. Couldn't find any similar for trains. So I am considering to buy 60198 Lego Cargo Train which is powered by Powered Up. However, I read here about PU system that it is inferior to PF system, as considering it in LEGO Technic. So how it is in the Trains department? As far as I see: PF for trains has remote IR intutitive controller with two knobs; for A channel and B channel with max. 8 trains to control (with 4 controllers). Additionally battery box and seperated IR recevier is needed. PU has bluetooth remote controller, so clunky smartphone control can be omitted? But is PU remote controller in any point inferior to older PF controller? PU battery box has embedd bt receiver so less space is needed inside the locomotive, so it seems its better (less flexible though?) Coming back to 60198 buying consideration; I saw some offers of used PF systems for trains (separated or with a locomotive), but they are quite pricey: 55 EU for control set, and 100EU with control+locomotive (from 60052 or 7939 set). So is it better to buy this new set with PU or invest into older used (but better?) PF sets? Kind regards
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Hi! I want to share with you results of my recent works, which you may find interesting/useful: Motorization of 42164 Off-road Buggy with Circuit Cubes Web-browser remote control for Circuit Cubes supporting return-to-center steering. Controlling Circuit Cubes using Lego remote with smartphone as hub. 1. Motorization: Despite the small size of Circuit Cubes squeezing Bluetooth Hub and two Cubit Motors into 42164 Off-road Buggy was quite a challenge, but it turned out to be possible - you can see results below: In case you wanted to build the model (free instructions available at rebricable.com) or use CC to drive your own MOC here are some notes about challenges and their possible solutions: A. Rear drive for 42164 There is not much space at the rear of 42164 - initially I hoped to put hub and motor symmetrically but it was impossible. Transmission of power from the engine to the wheels can be done using 3x 16-tooth wheels, but the resulting buggy speed was a bit low (wheels with small diameter do not help here). The solution that kept neat arrangement of the hub and motor was to use new 20-tooth and 12-tooth gears and chain to gear up the drive. It might be possible to swap hub and motor and move hub 1 stud to the bottom, to use 24-tooth and 8-tooth gear for further speed-up, but this reduces access to hub on-off switch. The power of cubit motor is absolutely sufficient (someone used CC to drive 42128 ), the only thing which can stop the buggy is extremely poor grip of the wheels. B. Return-to-center steering Fortunately putting motor in the front of buggy was quite easy, contrary to making working return-to-center steering. As this can be useful for somebody, here are a few approaches that didn't work, and the final one, which does: First idea was to keep original way of steering 42164 by leaning it left or right with use of the motor directly moving the front axle. This does not work, as the rear spring in buggy is too strong and rotating front axle to one side rather moves the entire front of buggy up, than leans it to the side. Fixing front axle horizontally (no more leaning) + 1x4 gear rack +16-toooth gear to steer the wheels and two rubber bands to return them to center. But Cubit Motor when not powered is practically impossible to rotate even by hand, so no rubber will make it move. I tried to use 16-toooth with pin-hole instead of axle-hole to make clutch, this would, however require to have rubber bands weak enough to allow running motor to steer the wheels, but strong enough to return wheels to center, when motor is not powered. I don't know if this is possible even in theory, but even if it was, finding proper rubber bands would be probably hard. As the mechanical return-to-center was hard to implement, other option is to do the steering to remote control side. Since the original CircuitCubes app does not have this feature, I decided to write custom remote control application using HTML/JavaScript, which would allow to use in in the web-browser in smartphone. But here comes another problem: Cubit motors do not have rotation sensor and rotating the motor by given angle requires powering it for precisely determined time interval. The required precision is of order of a few milliseconds and... it some times works, but sometimes not exactly. To reduce impact of this imprecision I used 8-tooth gear instead of 16-tooth, but still there were annoying situations where centering failed. So the question was: how to make return-to-center which would ignore small errors of the motor rotation angle? Solution is to make some part of the rotation idle and affect the position of wheels only when the angle of the motor's axle is big enough. The motor has attached thin 3-beam, which after some rotation touches the tip of , moving the wheels (see picture below). When it retracts towards middle, two elements center the steering rod. Misalignment due to rotation error sometimes happens, but it is rare enough to not to spoil the fun. 2. Web-browser remote control for Circuit Cubes supporting return-to-center steering The app allows to control 2 motors using Circuit Cubes Bluetooth Hub, the code is available in github repo. You can select channels where motors are connected, revert the direction of rotation (as it also depends on how connection was done), and adjust the speed of motors. Default setting of steering motor speed (125) make it strong enough to move the wheels steering rod and counter the rubber connectors, and slow enough to allow precise movement for the defined return time (90ms). 3. Controlling Circuit Cubes using Lego remote with smartphone as hub. As you can see the application has additional button to connect Lego remote. It turned out to be possible to implement small subset of Lego Wireless Protocol, just to receive button events. This allows smartphone to be a relay for communication from Lego remote to Bluetooth Cube. The only drawback is small delay, but it is not very noticeable. I am mentioning this topic separately, since my adventure with programming Circuit Cubes started from a thread on Lego Train Tech forum, where such relay was made using C++, Legoino and M5 Atom microcomputer (thanks for sharing your code @Asper!). It wouldn't be much work to expand my current application to control trains, and smartphone as a main hardware is more accessible than M5 Atom. If somebody would like to do it I am open for cooperation.
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Link to MOCPages: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/426649 VIDEO FOUND HERE: Hello, this is my first post on Eurobricks. Anyway, here I present my custom supercar RHM (Rage Hobbit Motors) Wutzwerg. Note: this model is on Lego Ideas, the link for which is here: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/136011. I'm not really expecting the model to get either the necessary votes or to get turned into a set, but hey, I like to be surprised. Propulsion: 1 x L motor Steering: Front wheel with 1 x Servo motor and working steering wheel Drive Type: RWD Transmission: 4-speed sequential synchronized V2 Weight: 1.3 kg (2.87 lbs) Length: 41.5 cm (16.3 in, 52 studs) Width: 18 cm (7 in, 22.5 studs) Height: 10 cm (3.9 in, 12.5 studs) Power source: 7.4v 8878 Li-Po rechargeable battery box Estimated part count: 1800 pieces Suspension: All-wheel dual-wishbone independent Opening hood, doors, and engine V10 piston engine connected to drivetrain through transmission Build time: ~60 days Short Description This is my first vehicle to be built without a real subject vehicle in mind. It has less of a focus on performance than my other vehicles, with only a single L motor for propulsion. It also has front-wheel steering with a working steering wheel, a new version of my 4-speed sequential synchronized transmission (link here: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/422999), and a motorized rear wing. Introduction For this car I was trying something a little bit different. I had just designed a new version of my 4-speed sequential synchronized transmission (link here: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/422999) and I wanted to use it in a car, but I also wanted to build something a little less performance-oriented than usual and thus fit in more functions. This time, there is no original vehicle; make what comparisons you will, this car is entirely a product of my imagination. I think. Drive Train Part of my plan for this vehicle was to eliminate one of my customary 2 drive motors, leaving only a single L motor for propulsion. This freed up space for another M motor, as well as allowing room for the V10 piston engine. The V10 piston engine located behind the front seats, and was connected to the drive system through the transmission; as such, it varied with whatever gear the transmission was engaged into. Because of space restrictions, I had to replace the usual cylinder brackets with a custom rig, after spending a solid hour determining the exact geometry of the original brackets. The transmission used in this vehicle works off of the same principle as my previous 4-speed sequential synchronized transmission; this transmission is also a dual-sequential transmission. What this means is that the transmission actually contains TWO separate transmissions which are shifted in such a way as to produce 4 distinct speeds. What differentiated this transmission from the previous versions is that the switches were not hinged: instead, they moved back and forth in a straight line. This can be seen and understood better from the video above, and you can expect instructions sometime sort of soon-ish. The transmission itself was shifted by an M motor geared 10:1. Because of the lessened power from using a lone L motor, the motor had a gear reduction of 1.25:1 before being fed into the transmission, and then another reduction of 2:1 before the differential at the rear wheels. The car wasn’t fast, but it did pretty well for a single motor. Steering and Other Motorized Functions Steering was simple as usual - with a Servo motor and rack-and-pinion system - but this time I added a working steering wheel. That’s just about all there is to say for the steering system. The final M motor was for the rear wing. This was no fancy job, just a linear clutch and lever mechanism to raise the rear wing, but again space restrictions made the implementation of this system difficult. The rear aesthetics were somewhat compromised to make room for the rear wing & mechanism. Aesthetics With this being the first time I’ve ever come up with my own large-scale car, I didn’t really know where to start, and all the online comments saying “Making your own car is SO hard!” were not particularly encouraging. The front was actually the first area to be built (because of the awkward and inconvenient position of the battery box) and the rest of the car was built using the front as a reference point. Obviously, I can’t give my own unbiased opinion on the car’s aesthetics - many hours spent designing it have probably compromised my opinion as well - but I think the aesthetics turned out pretty well. Please, give me your honest opinions in the comments section! Reflections Not bad, I think, for a first attempt at making my own vehicle. Space was a little bit cramped because of the scale I chose to build it in, but everything mostly fit together in the end. It functioned really quite well: the transmission, rear wing, steering, and propulsion systems all worked without malfunctioning even once in the final vehicle, despite considerable use. That may be a first for me. Despite having fun crafting my own vehicle, I can’t see this as being something I’ll repeat frequently. That’s not to say I’ll never do it again, but I do enjoy recreating existing cars, and of course brand familiarity with my viewers gives people something to compare to. Enjoy the pictures! -
I am looking for some suggestions. My daughter is building the Mars Rover set (go here for the details: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=98222) for a presentation at school and I told her I would help make it operate by remote control with one of the power function kits. Problem is that it is a lot more complex than I thought. (I have no experience at the expert LEGO building). I think I can maybe get it moving with a remote, receiver, and simple motor attached to one wheel, but I do not have any idea how to do the steering and don’t know how to move any of the other functions (camera, antenna, robotic arm). see It was not designed to be converted to power functions / motorized. Here is a photo of the underside: I am not sure the easiest / best way to add power for drive and steering. It just has to move a little bit in the classroom, not drive outdoors in all terrain. I posted in another forum and a member suggested that I post here. Any suggestions to help me figure out what I need to do and what to buy to easily make this work would be much appreciated. Thanks much!
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As a last goodbye to 2016, I present this small red car. It is not really built to be particularly good looking (I used a wire bodywork to have a low weight) or to have a particular high speed. But what it does, is put a smile on your face. Technics are kept simple, there's an RC buggy motor next to a PF lipo batterybox in the middle, a PF medium steering motor before the front axle and an IR V2 receiver to enable 1 metre of infrared range when going outside. Please Lego... Please... do something about it. The frustration and anger about this appalling range is powering companies like S-brick. And that's why my future cars are having an S-brick, leaving this model as one of my last PF IR remote controlleds MOCs... We're making a fun car, right? So there is a silly spoiler and huge rear tires. By the way, these wide tires provide excellent traction in dry conditions, which is important for low-weight cars like this. The interior had to be sacrificed to have a low position for the drive motor and battery box. Because of this measure, the handling was quite good, but made much worse by the slow PF IR remote. In the end, of course there is the video: The longer story can be read on MOCpages and better photos are on Brickshelf. Have a nice 2017!
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Already two years ago, I got inspired at defeating steep hills with the LiteJeep. That could already beat 50 degrees, but because of its high riding height (good for offroading) and relatively heavy PF L motors, I reckoned there would be more irons to put into the hill-climbing fire. Very important things for hillclimbing are sufficient grip, huge power and a low weight. Weight ultimately gives more grip, but it also causes the vehicle to flip earlier when it is located above the center of gravity. With these factors into the equation, I decided to create a vehicle with loads of grip, so with 4 rubber tracks, and with articulated steering to make a sturdy connection between right and left possible, which is essential for climbing: when any vehicle is climbing, the suspension does unexpected things, so a stiff frame and suspension setup are required. Lightweight design requires a low complexity too, so that is why articulated steering is chosen. Having a front and rear part to let the vehicle adjust its shape to the terrain is an option I used several times in my rubber-tracked vehicles. This is the first vehicle in which I used the maximum footprint instead of the triangular form, again for maximum grip. Please note that, when you choose for the sturdyness and simplicity of articulated steering ánd want to let it adjust to the terrain, the middle joint becomes very complex as it contains joints in two axes! There is always a place where pain comes back. The Law of Conservation of Pain holds here.. In this case, all the trouble was in the difficult joint, which took about 5 hours alone. Then for the power: initially an XL motor was used in the front, but having a driveshaft through the already complex dual joint proved to be impossible. And then the idea came. Why not generate the power at the place where it is needed? Why not, if there are two separate parts, have some powerplant in both front and rear? But then there was a problem: I have a very large project in which all my three L motors are used. This pushed me in the direction of using M-motors, which proved out to be a very good forced choice. Combined with the lightness of the overall model, they proved to have ample torque left with a 3:1 gear ratio, having enough torque to keep the four tracks spinning all time when grip was lost. This is amazing, and you can see why Lego has put two M motors in their latest Tracked Racer. But the limits of that thing are way lower than the Quattrack's limit. Using two PF medium motors for drive and one for steering, this one of my very few (and maybe the last) Lego Technic MOC with only 2006 components. The Sbrick will throw all range headaches away and have much less delay than the stone-age PF IR remote it is replacing. Why did I use such standard power functions components? The new PF servo is slow and quirky, a medium motor allows for much more smoothness in steering. Moreover, if you are driving at steep slopes like this, it asks all your concentration to keep it on the move. If you cannot feel where the remote control knobs are (The intrinsic problem of the Sbrick) the vehicle will fall of before you've compensated. So the old system proved to be the best system in this situation. The articulated joint actually contains 3 joints, to have a suspension force on it in both directions: up and down. That is why there are rubber bands and one shock absorber. By the way, also the steering joint is included. Now, because the front and rear part of the Quattrack are relatively conventional (no steering nor differentials), all the pain of good and accurate steering is shifted to the design of this central joint. I dare to state that the success of this vehicle relies for a big part on this 2D joint. In the video, the operation is explained. On this photo, it looks as if the ground clearance is half a stud. This is not the case; in fact, it is over 1 stud. The underside is very smooth, which helps the low superstructure to glide over obstacles. Because of the weight saving, I designed it to have very clean looks. Styling means more weight. However, I managed to squeeze in some little details like fake cabin flashing lights, front lights, rear lights, cabin seats and a steering wheel. The reason why I did this, is that I wanted it to be a possible real-life vehicle as well, not just a scientific experiment. Adding weight is bad for climbing ability, so I tested the Quattrack also with the cabin removed and say what !!? The climbing angle was the same. This front look shows all that. The Quattrack contains everything, but nothing more. You do not need a zillion pieces of Lego to break records. Only 556 grams of it is sufficient in some cases. The video is the proof of all my theories... [media] I have not put all text and photo's on Eurobricks. More is to be found on Brickshelf and MocPages. If you like my video's, you might want to take a look on my YouTube channel.
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Lego Trump is back, bigger, better and president of USA. Let's build big Mexico Wall. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcgaQVOlMbw
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Hello everybody! It is no secret that the Power Functions system allows smooth control of motor power and regulation of the angle movement of servo motor. I have studied this issue and developed a proportional remote control system which was first designed for the management of wheeled and tracked models. But in fact it is a universal device, which can control any Lego models with PF IR Receivers. The system is not a control panel by itself. It represents a set of sensors, control unit and an infrared transmitter module which are made in the form factor compatible with Lego Technic. Here's how it looks Сontrol unit: Sensors of various types: IR transmitter: All this is connected together by wires and must be installed in the transmitter model made from Lego Technic. The device can be fully configured using the front panel buttons but a lot of functions and menu system are difficult to obtain. I wrote a manual, but did not translate it into English yet. Here is a short video showing the basic idea. I'm sorry, my comments are in Russian. At the beginning of the video I configure my system for a specific console design (the system remembers the maximum deviation of controls in this design). At the end of the video I run track model with the remote control, which is shown at the beginning of the video. To manage such a model i have made a special control mode, which converts the signals of throttle and steering into the power of left and right caterpillar motors. I want to find out, whether it can be interesting to someone?
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Hi, Here's my modification of 42008 Service Truck set, fully motorized and remote controlled. I decided to keep the original functions (including pneumatics) exactly as they are while adding some extra features as well. The additional functions are driving, tilting of the driver's cabin, headlights, steering and working-tilting steering wheel. I tried my best to keep the original looks (with some visual improvements though) and made the structure as rigid as possible. The PF elements used are: - 1 L-motor for 8x4 driving (with single, shared differential) - 1 M-motor for steering - 1 M-motor for tilting the cabin - 1 M-motor for functions (included in the original set) - 4 M-motors for switches - 2 for pneumatic switches and 2 for mechanical switches - 4 IR receivers - 1 Rechargeable battery box - 1 Led light set, - 2 x 20 cm extension cables, one for the large motor and one for the battery box. Rebrickable: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/Chilekesh/42008-service-truck-full-rc Bricksafe: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Chilekesh/42008-rc (*.lxf file can be downloaded here) Any suggestions on improvements are very welcome. Cheers and happy building!
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I'm programming my EV3 vehicle to be operated by an IR beacon remote. I've successfully got the car to be able to move, but I'm stuck on something else. My vehicle has a 4-speed transmission, and a medium motor shifts the gears. I used the remote's topmost button (the one that turns on the green light on the remote) for shifting the gearbox. But when I press it, something goes off. It's really hard to say, but what I know is that the topmost button isn't acting like a normal button. So the motor keeps on moving until the IR sensor realizes the green light is off. I really need help with the program because I just want the topmost button to act like a normal button so I can press it to make the medium motor shift one gear with a one second wait before shifting to the next one. I would love a very helpful response from someone that knows how to program the IR remote and if there is no way to get the topmost button to get the result I want, an alternative would be nice so I can be able to shift gears with the push of a button on the remote. -
Hi eurobricks! here is my new dune buggy: details: it is fast, powered by l motor, nizn aaa batteries, servo motor and ir reciver of course! it also has some lights which are useful in the dark! building time: 4 hours. insrtuctions: no, but maybe i will make some. Video: https://youtu.be/1W26VOe1dkU i hope you enjoy!
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Hi all, i've finally started my tc11 entry, i was playing around some building techniques i've improved on all my project and i initially wanted to build a robot with a razer like drive (omniwheel at the back and normal wheels at the front) but i found that drive inefficient and with a lot of friction, so i decided to built the "most compact 4x4 rubber-band powered flipper + lifter combo " and i'm not sure how it will end, but i came up with a concept chassis (it has working drive and lifting wedglets and it comes from the first idea of my entry (a sliding disk bot, but there are too many spinners here)), the problem is that i need to fit there the reloading motor (XL) the battery box and the two receivers/sbrick and i'm not sure i can (mainly because i've built a lot of compact robots and there were a lot more space than in this one) so i may came back to design a more efficent 4wd omni+standard drive and have a bigger footprint but i'm not sure, meanwhile (i'm currently building the mechanisms) enjoy the concept: drive: 2 XL motors, 4WD with friction gears main weapon: rubber-band powered flipper v2 (hoping for 2hg flipping, before it was ~1) reloaded by and xl motor secobndary weapon: lifting wedglets powered by and M motor (no electronics here) current size: 26x27 stud, with retracted weapon(battle position) -
I was really so busy that is a long time since i created a folder on brickshelf, and now it's time to add my remaining 8 bot: i'm also aiming to create a lxf file for each, but currently waiting for the first folder to become public. What i want to do is to keep this fist post simple with robots thumbnails, link to the future reply about them, descriptions and lxf files, let's start: Really hope that all the files and photos that i'll put there can inspire some TC11 competitors, unfortnately you can't fight bot in the entry video but i will really like to know how a fight between your bots and mine will end (despite my bot being ruled by different and more restrictive rules). Bot-focused replies will be posed one every day starting from tomorrow and then this first message will be updated with thumbnails, lxf files and more info, i'm doing this because i'm progressively dismantle all the robots and i want to keep them at least in digital form (so i'll have more pieces for my new ideas without loosing the previous ones). i also really want to thaks LRW (lego robot wars) group for the support that they gave to me while i was building and posting updates there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/105109289523663/?ref=bookmarks in order not no make this topic only a bunch of writings i have a small video about the first bot that will be showcased tomorrow (asap) so here all the robots: name: LIFTY description: this is the 2nd of the -ITY team, a series of simple robots made to show the archetypes of combat robots and also easy to replicate, they also fight each other but the winner wasn't this one. signature move: LIFTER weight class: 500g notes: despite being a lifter it is not really able to full lift the opponent but by going under it and pushing with the additive weight it can easily lift and flip up to 1kg bots! lxf file: lifty.lxf bot reply link(scroll down here): click here name: BITY description: this is the first of the -ITY team, also the most complex featuring a jaw that can be opened and rotate, it represents grabbers or control robots that aim to grab the opponent and push them into the PIT of oblivion due to the use of lipo BB (i have only one) and the excessive weight (700g) it didn't compete to the secret -ITY championship signature move: CLAW weight class: 500g notes: 4x4 transmission is really powerful but has a lot of friction while steering (even at smaller weight class) so the battle position of BITY is with the claw inclined down and front wheels lifted up and not touching the ground lxf file: bity.lxf bot reply link: click here name: FLIPPY description: 3rd of the ITY team it is a spring powered flipper! inspired by diotor this bot relies to a winch mechanism that is able to load and relase 4 9398 shock absorbers with only one motor! signature move: winch reloaded-spring powered FLIPPER arm weight class: 500g notes: unable to self right was defeated by lifty on the -ITY tournament lxf file: flippy.lxf bot reply link: click here name: CARBIDE description: replica of uk robot wars competitor carbide, grand finalist of series 8 and champion of series 9 signature move: horizontal spinner weight class: 1kg new technic motor used: 2x M for drive, 1x 9V motor (745699) for weapon drive: 2WD and can drive even if upside down! notes: the side armor is really tough but can be detached from th main body, also the bar has a quite good punch but luckily not enough to break lego pieces, it can remove armor and exposed wheels. also it is driven by an sbrick receiver so it has the advantage of PWM motor controls and no line of sight needed, may also join 3-robot matches due to not providing interferences with IR lxf file: carbide.lxf bot reply link: click here name: PULSAR description: again a 2016 competitor, smaller and faster than carbide, but equally lethal signature move:SPINNING DRUm with double single tooth weight class: 1kg replica new technic bricks notes: it requires only two channels to be controlled because the spinning drim is always one and a rubber band belt prevent the motor stall name: WITCH DOCTOR description: this replica is from BATTLEBOTS! unluckily i can't replicate the purple/green color scheme but this time i used old technic bricks so it is completely smash-able! but mind that its deadly single tooth disc smash bot before they can do anything signature move: single tooth SPINNING VERTICAL DISK weight class: 1kg replica with system bricks notes: my first inclined wheel drive (with chains) that really helps the bot steering even if 4x4 with all the wheels on the ground name: CARDIAC II description: the first fan designed bot that i motorized, it will fight witch doctor later this moth (hopefully) and it is armed with a deadly axe that can stop the 2000rpm disk of its opponent signature move: fast AXE weight class: 1kg replica with system bricks notes: it is the biggest bot i've ever built and has a pretty advanced weapon capable of rapid fire with a single M motor name: KILERHURTZ test chassis description: this poor bot was never finished (and used to test all other bots weapon) due to the armor of the original 100kg one being really difficult to replicate, but it's weapon really reflect the power of a 110kg machine signature move: rubber-band powered gearing reloaded AXE weight class: never finished notes: it can be operated with a full auto reload system and a tap firing button from the sbrick APP
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hi all, some months ago i made this video of lego battlebots, and now i'm posting it there because maybe you could be interested also for TC11, you'll find all the bot info in the video but i'll clone them here too, hope to bring up a brickshelf folder asap for the two bots (but i have to rebuild them due to pieces and electronics being used for witch doctor replica, cardiac two, fanmade design, killerhurts and recyclopse chassis, and other 3 500g class bot an grabber a lifer and a flipper) PULSAR weight: 700g size: 23x27x9studs weapon: 73g spinning drum with two single teeth 1900rpm strenghts: really effective wedge shape used to go under the opponent and lift them with the drum energy weaknesses: the drum isn't enough fast to launch the oppnent on the air, wheelholders may break off easily, weak wepon belt CARBIDE weight: 730g size: 32x32x9 studs weapon: 84g spinning bar 750rpm strenghts: great power and though armor, effective rear wedge weaknesses: the armor can e warped or bent and increase friction in the drivetrain, hard to control, high battery consumption here a photos from Ellis (pulsar builder) about size comparison here the video: NB it is really long, if you want, after presentation, you can skip to 11:02 to skip the fist fight (a bit long and boring) and save time without losing the most of the action! i'm keeping editing this with photos and videos from my twitter, it is hard to find them back but i'll try: CARBIDE PULSAR
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Hi guys I just finished my newest project: 2 AT-TE MOCs and want to show you all AT-TE Info Sheet by sunnyxi, on Flickr AT-TE 33 by sunnyxi, on Flickr I started building blue one in summer and finished the red one just a month ago. The blue one is just a simple MOC but the red one is much more complicated as it is motorized and can transform into a landing platform. AT-TE 19 by sunnyxi, on Flickr AT-TE 14 by sunnyxi, on Flickr It also has flood lights for night combat. AT-TE 1 by sunnyxi, on Flickr AT-TE 6 by sunnyxi, on Flickr The blue one has more space to carry troops and kyber crystals. AT-TE 27 by sunnyxi, on Flickr AT-TE 35 by sunnyxi, on Flickr AT-TE 5 by sunnyxi, on Flickr Thanks for viewing at my newest creations and make sure you watch the video! Comment and criticisms are welcome :D Full album and more pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/63137442@N05/albums/72157680455243206
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Once in a while, every Technic builder wants to build a Lego boat. I was no exception, but there's a lots of boats being built: how to make an original boat then? I decided to not design a good-looking boat, but to make it a tool for filming. This choice asks for a boat that can be quickly placed into its filming position, which means it should be fast and agile. It should also have enough remote control range to film on big water areas. The 1980's Power Functions remote is thus completely out of the question: responds very slow and outside, there's 2 metres of range. We all must thank S-brick for existing. S-brick (or alternatives) makes this boat possible: without sufficient range, there cannot be a camera boat. Many boats have a keel and a rotating propeller at the back. A submerged plane behind the propeller acts as a rudder. Sadly, a rudder becomes less efffective at lower boat speeds and the boat reacts slowly to it: turning the rudder does not mean turning the boat, it first needs speed (and thus space!) to turn. In Dutch ditches (where I wanted to test the boat), there is not a lot of space available for maneuvering. Having a a slow-responding boat with a rudder there means the boat being into the reed all the time. I therefore eliminated the rudder and mounted the propeller on a hinge. Any hinging of the propeller system at any propeller speed the boat causes immediate turning, which is a nice direct response on the steering input. Good theory, but when a single rotating propeller is mounted on the rear, the boat will rotate along its Z-axis. I'm not sure why this happens. It may happen due to the gyroscopic effect of the propeller or due to the Lego propellers not being made for water propulsion, but anyway I had to deal with it. A second propeller placed next to the first propeller that rotates in the opposite direction seems to to the trick. However, when you mount this system on a single hinge, the (larger) system swings out quite far and easiliy hits reed in the typical tight Dutch waters I tested it in. Also, in windy waters, having a single propeller at the rear means the steering is countersteering all the time just to sail straight on! To deal with the problem, I mounted 1 propeller at the front of the boat and one steered propeller at the rear. This means the boat always tracks straight (even when the wind comes in from any side) and that the propellers can be mounted close to the boat, reducing its draft. The boat is made from 2 boat hulls to create a stable camera platform. This concept worked, it gave a lot of control. I decided to use a race buggy motor as it provides a lot of RPM at low torque, excactly what a boat needs. As no additional parts (for looking nice etc) were added, the boat was light, controllable, fast and really fun to use. The steering is a quite unusual setup (for me). It contains a rack with a 24t gear, a PF Servo motor and a ball link system. This setup had the power and speed that was needed for the steering to be quick. The video The GoPro is mounted upside down under the boat. The high speed axle to the front propeller is also visible. For water level footage, the GoPro is mounted starboard-side of the boat. As the boat only weighs 831 grams, this effects the balance a bit.. Sometimes, I used a rearward-facing camera, mounted in a Lego frame and adjustable by a large linear actuator. The same camera, facing to the front. Due to the size of the boat, there are weight restrictions. The boat wouldn't sink with a mounted DSLR camera, but it would not be stable enough when the wind increases. The Sbrick and PF battery box are mounted on the left side to keep a low center of gravity and to restore the balance (the servo is not in the middle). The boat packs some power, which is visible from the wake in the water. Thanks to S-brick the boat never went out of range so it was also a really nice toy. It might have been faster with BuWizz though, but that question might be answered later. I think this boat really makes a case for the race buggy motor. It has good RPM and power for its size and in the water it never runs out of torque (a problem that can occur on land.. ). Hopefully someday somehow it will be made compatible to Powered Up, otherwise this hero will disappear in the shady realms of the past.
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Good evening together, Today i have a question to the community. For a new idea i have to collect some further information about the train remote-control 64227. I know there are around 14 steps to control the speed of a train. -7 => +7 (seven reverse and seven forward). But how many degrees will i turn the wheel from -7 to +7? I know it´s endless and in most cases it doesn´t matter, but in this special case i need to know as exact as possible. Does anybody know the degree per step too? With kind regards Martin
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What do you kindly think? (For God’s sake I don’t think there is an already created topic for this! If there is, I am so sorry, again ) Best Regards, Idris
