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Showing results for tags 'studless'.
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Hello Ferrari and Speed Champions fans, The Ferrari GTO (often referred to as Ferrari 288 GTO) (Type F114) is an exotic homologation version of the Ferrari 308 GTB produced from 1984 until 1987 in Ferrari's Maranello factory. It was designated GT for Gran Turismo and O for Omologata (homologated in Italian). Building instructions are available on the following lins: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-201540/_TLG_/ferrari-288-gto It is a studless build in 8 studs wide Speed Champions style, and it is some kind of update of my earlier 308 GTB model with some newly released parts, but it is a different car. I minimized the use of stickers to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the air vents on the hood, the front bumper with the turn signal lights, the tilted front grill, the turn signal lights on the front side, the black stripe on the sides, the side-view mirrors, the tiltable seats etc.. Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic rear side with the vehicle registration plate, here there is a half stud offset. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for two minifigures. I suggest to use small hairs. Without the seats minifigures with bigger hairs can be used too if they are leaned back (in some cases the black 2x1 tiles have to be removed too). Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Ferrari 288 GTO - Instructions 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 288 GTO - Instructions 02 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 288 GTO - Instructions 03 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 288 GTO - Instructions 04 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 288 GTO - Instructions 05 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 288 GTO - Instructions 06 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 288 GTO - Instructions 07 by László Torma, on Flickr
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My husband got the idea to build a studless version of 8859 made in 1981. We made it together and here it is with youtubevideo and instructions and photos. Free nstructions here: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8462/Helgejohan3/technic-8859-revival-4wd/
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Me and my husband made this car, it is a studless Test car 8865. We call it Test car 8865 Revival. Me and my husband have the same hobby. It has 746 parts. We made instructions. Here they are and they are free: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8231/Helgejohan3/test-car-8865-revival/ UNPAINTED MOTOR AND RIMS:
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TC8 Folding Crane (not yet finished) I think it's about time to show what I have been secretly working on in the past weeks. It's not done yet, but it's getting there and I feel that this time, things might just work out. As you can see, it's not finished. The biggest question mark right now for me is, where to put the winch that will unfold the jib. There's no room anywhere! :D Of course, I'll be showing the unfolded state later (when everything works). So, what does it do? The carrier has two functions: 1. steering on all axles, driven from a gear on the back. Central axle has half the angle of the other two. 2. outriggers, all connected, driven from a gear on the back. Outriggers are the same system as those in 8460. There's no engine - no room. Slewing the superstructure is the same mechanism as 8421 - manual. The superstructure has two winches. 1. lifting the main boom 2. extending the main boom Both are worm-driven, to prevent backdriving. A third winch has to be fitted somewhere to unfold the jib. This will probably end up somewhere on the boom - there's no space on the supersturcutre to add a third worm-driven winch. Unless, maybe, I sacrifice the paneling. Last jib section has to be put on by hand. The actual crane winch and hook are also still to do. Might be that I make the last jib section a bit shorter to keep things in proportion a bit. Also, the controls for the crane winch might also be simple and close to the function itself. Controlling everything from the base is simply not possible. Sets do this too, so I don't see it as a problem. Building a decently-working folding crane is high on my wish-list for quite some time (think years), so I really hope I can get everything to work this time. I all goes well, I might do instructions (but without the strings). I keep a digital file, which tells me I'm at about 1400 parts right now. Any tips are welcome, especially as to where to put that winch :P -
There have been a number of topics dedicated to the studless vs. studded discussion, but I'm more interested in uniting the two paradigms. I really like the new possibilities that studless building gives me, but I also like the look of studded models. The combination is wonderful, as builder like e.g. like 2LegoOrNot2Lego, Erik Leppen, M_Longer and others show. So I'm interested in learning techniques on how to combine the two. In particular, how do you deal with the odd vs. even number of studs along the width of your model? Parts like are useful, but I guess there's many more possibilities. Can you share some? Illustrated examples are welcomed -
After three months of iterating upon its design in LDD, 111.34 Australian dollars and half an hour of building, my McLaren F1 is complete! The total number of parts is approximately individual 165 pieces (this includes wheels and tyres being counted as separate parts), and two of the main body pieces (leading up to the rear wheel arches) come from a 130 dollar LEGO set. There is not an angle that the McLaren F1 has that isn't iconic. From its rounded, short rear-end and taillights to its slim front nose, the car's entire design philosophy was based solely on how light its designers could get it to be - and even then, they weren't happy. What supercar is complete without some rich guy in his freshly-pressed (and very plasticy, in this case) suit and suitcase? It fits a minifigure! Barely. LDD likes to assume you can phase parts together, so while I was able to add a minifigure and let it sit comfortably in LDD, I'm forced to remove the minifigure's hair/hat/etc for it to fit in real life. To say it's a tight squeeze is an understatement. I saved the best for last, so, of course, what McLaren F1 would be complete without a "Longtail"? Images are hosted on MOC-Pages, and will be used in my page when it goes live: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/429852 Stores pilfered to construct this MOC: SwissBrickPlanet 2AM Brick Store BrickComplete AFOL Supply WLWYB Thanks for the excellent prices & parts!
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Hello fellow Technic fans, let me present to you my tribute model to the well known, iconic set 8880 As a new member I should introduce myself, but I did that already in the forum designed for the very purpose so I just link that here http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=134093 and we can jump to the main subject. I've been encouraged by a commenter on youtube who is a member here to share this MOC of mine on this forum as maybe this will give you a rest after the frustration caused by the much anticipated 42056. Don't get it wrong, I don't mean to fill the gap it left (I read the topic too and share the feeling), but hopefully can give you a few minutes of entertainment. I admit it is a sensitive piece of history to touch, but I hope you recognize that the respect towards the original model what was driving my hands while I was designing this plastic homage. Probably some of you have already seen the video on the youtube. For those who didn't let me link it: Instead of making a new description I'll use the one that I made for the vid and pepper it with some images: The original set 8880 has been released in 1994. Sadly that time I was living my dark age (life without lego). Now it's been 4 years that I got back in business, dark age is over and this set is weightly responsible for that change in my life. First I was just reading about it on Blackbird page. Long story short I could manage to get one, and as an old school lego fan (being child in the 80's) it straight enchanted me and determined probably my whole life (hobbywise at least). In the same time I really admire the modern studdless system of lego and it inevitably ended up in the demand in me to build a studless version of it. I've built it first in 2013, but in lack of sources (parts and talent) it wasn't really desirable, nor "smart". Since then I keep rebuilding it time to time and always ends up better and better. According this I wouldn't say this is the last or the best of it, but at the moment this is the stage of its evolution. This is where the name I gave came from. A few words about the details: Body: As you can see I did not use panels but kept the wireframe like appearance as it is one of the benchmark of the original set. Speaking of which I have to admit I did change the shape of the front a lot, even eliminated the concealed headlights due to the feeling that time has passed and it's not cool anymore. But to pay back what I took, I've designed a hood what follows the geometrical concept of the boot. If you listen closer, when the hood opens, the headlights are sliding backward. Rest of the body I think speaks for itself. Interior: Not much to say about it, seats, dash , keeping the colour scheme. Gearbox: Now that is a tricky one. That was the first problem I've been facing with as due to the size of the model I needed a narrow 4 speed gearbox with central differential, but I could not find a decent one anywhere. Crowkillers Paul had the 6 speeder, but it was too wide for my car and Sariel's 4 speeder has been designed for two wheel drive. So I've spent the next month and a half to develop a new one from scratch. Of course if there is a central diff it should be lockable, so it is. And it makes a very compact structure with the gearbox itself what comes handy in modular building. Edit: that was years back. From here it seems rediculously long time, but I let you decide. Here is a deidcated video about this gearbox: Steering: Unlike in the original, there is no ackermann geometry in my model, but please blame lego as it is the field where the part developement goes backward. Anyway the front steering is pretty simple, but for the rear I had to use a rod mechanism, since the compact gearbox left no room for an axle to go trough without compromising the aesthetics. It comes however with certain benefits, as with minor modification on the linking can change the steering lock of the rear wheels. I've applied the smalest as I've found it more realistic. The real life 4 wheel steered cars have only 3-5 degrees on the rear. Ground clearence adjustment: No witchcraft, a worm gear and an 8 tooth gear paired up on each wheel to lift and lower the shockers trough an axle. That's it. Friend of my accidentally discovered (by opening the boot) that this coupe can be converted easily to a hatchback... To be honest I did not consider this as a requirement when I was designing the model. I've made a couple of colour variations too as it appeared above. There is more hi-res pics on my brickshelf: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=562855 Building Insructions: https://bricksafe.com/files/Attika77/8880-evo-tribute-model/Attika_s_8880_EV_Tribute_by_1963maniac.pdf Feel free to share your opinion or ask about it Thank you for your attention. Attika -
Hello Porsche and Speed Champions fans, Porsche 906 aka Carrera 6 is a street-legal racing car from Porsche. It was announced in January 1966 and 50 examples were subsequently produced, thus meeting the homologation requirements of the FIA's new Group 4 Sports Car category to the number. The type would also compete in modified form in the Group 6 Sports Prototype class. For the year of the car's debut in 1966, it achieved numerous victories. The main inspiration came from a plastic toy car which I received as a child. Building instructions are available on the following links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-106735/_TLG_/porsche-906 It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer the brick built solutions to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore only a standard vehicle registration plate sticker is used. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the emblematic front, the side view mirrors, the side air intakes etc. . Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic headlight, lots of solutions were tested before the final one. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for one minifigure. I suggest to use a helmet or small hair. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Porsche 906 - Instructions 1 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 2 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 3 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 4 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 5 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 6 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 7 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 8 by László Torma, on Flickr
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Hello Ferrari and Speed Champions fans, the Ferrari F40 (tipo F120) is a mid-engine, rear-wheel drive sports car engineered by Nicola Materazzi with styling by Pininfarina. It was built from 1987 to 1992, with the LM and GTE race car versions continuing production until 1994 and 1996 respectively. As the successor to the 288 GTO (also engineered by Materazzi), it was designed to celebrate Ferrari's 40th anniversary and was the last Ferrari automobile personally approved by Enzo Ferrari. At the time it was Ferrari's fastest, most powerful, and most expensive car for sale. Building instructions are available on the following links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-99799/_TLG_/ferrari-f40 https://www.mocsmarket.com/lego-mocs/ferrari-f40-building-instructions/ It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer the brick built solutions to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore only Ferrari logo stickers are used. (If you preferred a better shaping instead of a real rear side grill, then 2pcs of parts 61409 could replaced by 2pcs of tiles and some additional stickers, see the picture 3.) My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the emblematic front, hood , side and rear intakes, the narrow black line on the front and sides, the front turn signals, the side view mirrors etc... Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic rear side with the vehicle registration plate and the rear spoiler, here there is a half stud offset. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for one minifigure. I suggest to use small or middle sized hair. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Ferrari F40 - instructions 1 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 2 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 3 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 4 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 5 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 6 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 7 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 8 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 9 by László Torma, on Flickr
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Hello Skoda and Speed Champions fans, Skoda 105 is one of the iconic Eastern Bloc cars of my childhood. It was a rear-engined, rear-wheel drive small family car that was produced by Czechoslovakian car manufacturer AZNP in Mladá Boleslav, Czechoslovakia between 1976 and 1990. Engine sizes were 1.05 and 1.2 liters respectively. The color scheme of this model is based on my father's first car. Building instructions are available on the following links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-93968/_TLG_/skoda-105/#details https://www.mocsmarket.com/lego-mocs/skoda-105-building-instructions/ KIT is available on MOCHUB: https://www.mochub.com/moc/skoda-105 It is a studless build in the original, 6 studs wide Speed Champions scale and fits perfectly to the new City style cars too. I have minimized the number of the stickers to keep the flexibility of the parts in further builds, therefore only two standard vehicle registration plate stickers are used. I wanted to build the model as accurate as possible in this small scale, therefore it contains lots of details: for example the front ligths, the front grill with the narrow chrome line and Skoda logo, the side view mirrors and the rear view mirrors, the door handles, the black rubber stripe on the sides etc... Maybe the most challenging one was the C pillar solution. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for two minifigures: one on the front seat with small or middle sized hair (the rear view mirror assembly has to be removed in this case) and one on the rear seat without any hair. I prefer the model as it is shown on the pictures, but there are some modification possibilties: a) a rear windscreen can be added (there is a more detailed explanation in the last step), b) many of Skoda 105 cars has side view mirrors only on one side, c) on the real cars the color of the door handles and side view mirrors are sometimes black on the other ones they are chrome. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Skoda 105 - Instructions 1 by László Torma, on Flickr Skoda 105 - Instructions 2 by László Torma, on Flickr Skoda 105 - Instructions 3 by László Torma, on Flickr Skoda 105 - Instructions 4 by László Torma, on Flickr Skoda 105 - Instructions 5 by László Torma, on Flickr
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So, I had a lot of ambition, and good ideas for my studless remake. Originally, I was going to do a studless version of set 6957 Solar Snooper, a set from my childhood. Unfortunately, my mental illness kicked in, and I was left at a week before the original deadline with no model to enter. But, I wanted to build something, so I looked at Technicopedia for inspiration, and landed on set 858 Auto Engines. This set is unique, because as many Technic sets feature an engine, only this one is dedicated to engines. The model I chose was the 'Boxer" engine, as that is one that I could improve on, without adding any functions. Now, the original engine is not actually a boxer, as the pistons do not reach top dead center at the same time. In addition, a 6 cylinder boxer should have the pistons clocked 120 degrees apart, which would have been impossible to do with the parts at the time. With all of the advanced parts introduced since 1980, I was able to correct both of these issues. Now, the engine is a proper boxer, with the pistons clocked 120 degrees apart. Aside from that, there is one other major functional difference. On the original model, the distributor is just a rotating shaft that does not actually do anything. On my model, I was able to add a rotating contact piece that connects to each of the spark plug wires in sequence. The engine also has a belt driven fan, just like the original. My model also features the detailed exhaust pipes and spark plug wires. As for scale, I think my model is about 50% larger, given that I used 3 stud diameter pistons, versus the 2 stud pistons of the original. But, the scale increase allowed me to make the crankshaft and pistons much more realistic and functional. Believe it or not, the fan was actually one of the biggest sticking points for me in terms of what to use. No brick built fan felt right, so I used the fan tail from 8068, which is actually a repurposed wheel cover. Unlike the original, the belts are configured in such a way that they can be added easily, without any bent paper clips. Size comparison with 42123. My engine is roughly the same width, and about 2/3rds the length. LDD cutaway to show the crankshaft. Video:(No Sound) https://bricksafe.com/files/Saberwing007/tc20-studless-858-boxer-6-engine/20210808_175126_1.mp4 So, that's my entry, a new version of the 858 Boxer engine. -
8880 can be called my favorite set of a series of Techniс, and I have long wanted to touch it by assembling it from modern parts, because I don't have any old ones, and it's too expensive to buy the original set. Getting started: Some teaser: Almost done: Final result: Description: All the features of the original set are preserved: steering of all wheels from the handle on the roof and from the steering wheel in the cabin, a model of a v8 engine with a fan, a 4-speed gearbox, all-wheel drive with three differentials, independent suspension of all wheels; Additional functions: Opening the engine compartment with a support, lifting the headlights with a lever from the cab; Comparison with the original: I'm sorry that I published all the photos at once, and not sequentially. This is my first competition for Eurobricks, and I did not immediately understand the rules. I hope I did everything right :) -
I have started building the 8846 Tow truck studless remake for the "[TC20] Technic Studless Recreation Contest" I have started with the front axle: As you can see, I will use a bit wider tires, also It will be one stud wider, so it will be 13, not 12 studs wide. Then, I have built the rear axle, and almost finished the chassis. This is all progress for now, more in next post..jpg.c97d5f21ec56245c4cac4a78e36033e6.jpg)
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Hello Lotus, James Bond and Speed Champions fans, The Lotus Esprit S1 is a sports car built by Lotus Cars from 1976 to 1978 at their Hethel, England factory. It has a rear mid-engine, rear-wheel-drive layout and it was featured in the 1977 James Bond film The Spy Who Loved Me, where a car famously converted into a submarine after a road chase. The car used in the underwater scenes is nick-named "Wet Nellie". Building instructions are available on the following link: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-178962/_TLG_/lotus-esprit-s1-007-james-bond-submarine-conversion It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a clean model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer the brick built solutions to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore only two vehicle registration plate stickers are used. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the black stripes on the sides, door handles, detailed tail lights etc.. Maybe the most challenging one was the front and the front bumper with brick built headlights. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The car can be converted to submarine. The model has space for two minifigures with helmets or small hairs. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Lotus Esprit S1 - James Bond - Instructions 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Lotus Esprit S1 - James Bond - Instructions 02 by László Torma, on Flickr Lotus Esprit S1 - James Bond - Instructions 03 by László Torma, on Flickr Lotus Esprit S1 - James Bond - Instructions 04 by László Torma, on Flickr Lotus Esprit S1 - James Bond - Instructions 05 by László Torma, on Flickr Lotus Esprit S1 - James Bond - Instructions 06 by László Torma, on Flickr Lotus Esprit S1 - James Bond - Instructions 07 by László Torma, on Flickr Lotus Esprit S1 - James Bond - Instructions 08 by László Torma, on Flickr Lotus Esprit S1 - James Bond - Instructions 09 by László Torma, on Flickr Lotus Esprit S1 - James Bond - Instructions 10 by László Torma, on Flickr Lotus Esprit S1 - James Bond - Instructions 11 by László Torma, on Flickr
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Hello Corvette and Speed Champions fans, The Chevrolet Corvette (C3) is the third generation of the Corvette sports car that was produced from 1967 until 1982 by Chevrolet for the 1968 to 1982 model years. Engines and chassis components were mostly carried over from the previous generation, but the body and interior were new. It set new sales records with 53,807 produced for the 1979 model year. Building instructions are available on the following link: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-176144/_TLG_/corvette-c3-stingray It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a clean model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer the brick built solutions to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore only two vehicle registration plate stickers are used. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the front bumper, the emblematic side grills, the side view mirrors, the embedded tail lights, the fuel cap etc... I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The instructions includes some modification ideas, for example front blinker and alternate side grill, see picture 6, and luggage rack, see picture 5. The model has space for two minifigures with helmets or small hairs. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Corvette C3 - instructions 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C3 - instructions 02 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C3 - instructions 03 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C3 - instructions 04 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C3 - instructions 05 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C3 - instructions 06 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C3 - instructions 07 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C3 - instructions 08 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C3 - instructions 09 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C3 - instructions 10 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C3 - instructions 11 by László Torma, on Flickr
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Hello Creator and Disney fans, Mickey Mouse is a legendary American cartoon character co-created in 1928 by Walt Disney and Ub Iwerks. Steamboat Willie is a 1928 American animated short film directed by them. It was produced in black and white and this cartoon is considered the debut of both Mickey and Minnie Mouse. Building instructions are available on the following links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-171558/_TLG_/mickey-mouse-steamboat-willie This is a studless model and everything is brick-built, stickers are not used. I wanted to create a clean model which is as accurate as possible in this scale. It includes many typical details: the shoes, the pants with buttons etc.. Maybe the most challenging one was the head with some tricky build techniques. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Mickey Mouse, Steamboat Willie - Instructions 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Mickey Mouse, Steamboat Willie - Instructions 02 by László Torma, on Flickr Mickey Mouse, Steamboat Willie - Instructions 03 by László Torma, on Flickr Mickey Mouse, Steamboat Willie - Instructions 04 by László Torma, on Flickr Mickey Mouse, Steamboat Willie - Instructions 05 by László Torma, on Flickr Mickey Mouse, Steamboat Willie - Instructions 06 by László Torma, on Flickr
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Hello Creator and Disney fans, Mickey Mouse is a legendary American cartoon character co-created in 1928 by Walt Disney and Ub Iwerks. The longtime icon and mascot of The Walt Disney Company, Mickey is an anthropomorphic mouse who typically wears red shorts, large yellow shoes, and white gloves. This is a studless model and everything is brick-built, stickers are not used. I wanted to create a clean model which is as accurate as possible in this scale. It includes many typical details: the yellow shoes, the red pants with white buttons etc.. Maybe the most challenging one was the head with some tricky build techniques. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Mickey Mouse - instructions 1 by László Torma, on Flickr Mickey Mouse - instructions 2 by László Torma, on Flickr Mickey Mouse - instructions 3 by László Torma, on Flickr Mickey Mouse - instructions 4 by László Torma, on Flickr Mickey Mouse - instructions 5 by László Torma, on Flickr Mickey Mouse - instructions 6 by László Torma, on Flickr
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Hello Lamborghini and Speed Champions fans, The Lamborghini Diablo is a high-performance mid-engine sports car built by Italian automobile manufacturer Lamborghini between 1990 and 2001. It is the first production Lamborghini capable of attaining a top speed in excess of 320 kilometres per hour (200 mph). Building instructions are available on the following links: It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a clean model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer the brick built solutions to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore only one Lamborghini logo sticker and a standard vehicle registration plate sticker are used. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the emblematic taillights, the side air intakes, the side view mirrors and rear details with the double exhausts etc... Maybe the most challenging one was the hood tilt and some half stud offsets in the inside structure. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for two minifigures with helmets or small hairs. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 1 by László Torma, on Flickr Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 2 by László Torma, on Flickr Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 3 by László Torma, on Flickr Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 4 by László Torma, on Flickr Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 5 by László Torma, on Flickr Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 6 by László Torma, on Flickr Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 7 by László Torma, on Flickr
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Hello Speed Champions and City fans, It was my entry to Bricklink Designer Program Series 3 and 4. It has received many kind comments and support, but unfortunately it has not been selected, therefore I decided to make the instructions available here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-177592/_TLG_/school-bus I always loved American style school buses, therefore I decided to design one to Bricklink Designer Program Series 3. It is not actually based on a real one, but it contains many typical details: the black bumper rails and STOP arms on the sides, the crossing arm, the side and rear doors, the rearview and crossover mirrors, the mudguards, the warning lights etc.. The roof assembly can be removed as one piece and in this case the internal details are visible: there is a driver seat with steering wheel, dashboard, gear shift, passenger seats and even a fire extinguisher. It is 8 studs wide, studless build in minifigure scale and fits perfectly to Speed Champions cars or to a LEGO City. There are many working details: the front and rear doors, the STOP arms, the crossing arm and windshield wipers. I wanted to create a clean build and tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and hide unnecessary studs, therefore some tricky, but legal build techniques are used. The set includes three minifigures: a driver, a school girl with a pen and backpack and a school boy with a brick built backpack. The model has space for 17 minifigures: one driver and 16 passengers. If the passengers are kids with short, rigid legs, then they can stand on the seats. The building instructions guidelines have been followed. It is built from the palette "BDP Series 3", so there are some color and part restrictions. The color "Bright Light Orange" would be a bit more authentic, but the available parts are restricted, therefore I decided to use "Yellow" and I am satisfied with the result. The STOP sign is very rare part and it is not available in this palette, therefore it is replaced by a simple, white, circular sign with a sticker. The door 43967 is also not available in yellow, therefore it is replaced by a brick built one, however, in this case I was able to add some extra details: a black door handle, bottom window and red lights. I hope you like my design, I appreciate any feedback. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ School Bus - Bricklink Designer Program 3 - 01 by László Torma, on Flickr School Bus - Bricklink Designer Program 3 - 02 by László Torma, on Flickr School Bus - Bricklink Designer Program 3 - 03 by László Torma, on Flickr School Bus - Bricklink Designer Program 3 - 04 by László Torma, on Flickr School Bus - Bricklink Designer Program 3 - 05 by László Torma, on Flickr School Bus - Bricklink Designer Program 3 - 06 by László Torma, on Flickr School Bus - Bricklink Designer Program 3 - 07 by László Torma, on Flickr School Bus - Bricklink Designer Program 3 - 08 by László Torma, on Flickr School Bus - Bricklink Designer Program 3 - 09 by László Torma, on Flickr School Bus - Bricklink Designer Program 3 - 10 by László Torma, on Flickr
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Hello, I’s been a long time ago Since I presented something here so it’s time to change it Few months ago there were a competition on our local LugPol forum where the goal was to remake a Technic set made before 2000 into studless model. I decided to take on workshop 8858 Rebel Wrecker. Beside my creation there were other two Rebels submitted. You can check all participants here: http://www.lugpol.pl...pic.php?t=26707 After all my remake of 8858 won in the category of more than 200, but less than 500 pieces. I have to say that it is not so easy to recreate a set into studless version. I told myself to keep all important points where things like suspension are mounded in the same place as in original set. So almost all dimensions stayed unchanged (e.g wheelbase, hood length, etc.) The main difference between original and my version is width. Old sets had even number of studs in wide, nowadays it’s an odd number. So my Rebel is 1 stud wider. When it comes to overall appearance I tried to make it as close as possible to the original but stay into modern style using liftarms instead of plates and bricks. Of course I had to change some kind of colours so for example Light Gray is replaced by LBG. One thing that I keep unchanged is front steering system. Yes, the small gear rack is present but for example 8048 which was released few years ago still has the same solution so I think that it’s fine to use it as well. Of course functionality of the model is the same as studfull, so working V6 engine and self locking rear winch is present. I am quite happy about this model. I made everything as I wanted, everything works, it took a first place so what to want more Below there is a video, and link to BS gallery. http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=561705 Greetings, Patrick. -
Hello I'd like to present my small-scale RC semi truck. It has PF Servo, XL motor and sbrick mounted in the cab/frame and the battery is neatly mounted in the trailer that also has a two-stage ramp driven by single L motor and Technic strings. The cables go through the hole in trailer saddle (big turntable) to connect sbrick with battery and ramp motor with sbrick at the back of sleeping cab. Full gallery: https://imgur.com/a/2uPHku There is an alternate configuration for potential standalone/without trailer use: Hope you'll like it :)
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Baby Porsche or VW Beetle tuning? This is a fictitious race car, I hope you like it :) You can support it on Lego Ideas: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/68cb5ef6-6e2c-40fc-9dca-0e4b7f3fe64a It is a studless build in Speed Champions scale, but with City wheels. I used only standard LEGO elements, the slopes with stickers are part of the set called 1968 Ford Mustang. Baby Porsche 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Baby Porsche 02 by László Torma, on Flickr Baby Porsche 03 by László Torma, on Flickr
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Hi there, I've developed a very annoying habit in the last few years. I randomly build pickups and other 4x4's. Even bought a real one. Anyway, the latest one is quite a biggy (sizewise) thanks to the planetary hubs. I've found a trick build them into solid axles with a practical ground clearance. This trick is going to be conroversial here. But start up with the video instead: All pics to be found here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Attika77/ultimate-pickup In the comments under the video, noble members of our community noted, that there are parts which could solve the 1/4 stud misery. (if you don't know what is that, off you go, and whatch the video to the end! ) One of these is the 14t gear from the old diffs: I've made the attempt, but due to that collar on the bottom (top on the pic) it is too wide and puts srain on the drivline, making it hard to turn it by hand, so it is off the table unfortunatelly. So I speak for myself when I say, cuting those axles worth it. Not a rare piece, and costs 1 cent on bricklink, but only because there is no smaller value in the currency itself. In return the design prooved itself very reliable. Another "weakness" of the axle is the inperfect geometry. The wheelhubs aren't completelly vertical. There is about 1 degree tilting inside on the top. /---\ Before overdramatising this atribute, think, if you've noticed it in the video? Apart from the axles, the rest of the truck is the product of those years I've mentioned above. The essence of it is a simplest possible drivetrain: And a steering solution refined for non-rack steering: (The render is made of an older version, hence the different connector) If you don't belive your eyes, yes I choose to use 4x2 beams to form steering arms. It looks savage, but it is doing the job very well, brings ackerman geometry in the game. It does not hold the wheels rock solid of course, but in practicality it isn't noticable on the field. I've got a rack steering solution as well, but that brings the servo down A, onto the front axle (I don't do that. Ever ) B, into the mid chassis, where I don't have room for that. So we keep that for another build. Also has a working steering wheel using the rear output from the servo. ame old bevel system I've been using in most of my builds. Check the 1st episode of the pickup saga for more on that. Suspension Solid axles on a 3 link setup. It is kinda made up design, slightly inspired by the rear suspension of my Isuzu Trooper. Changing the shocks, or their hinge point on the top, gives 3 different ride height and suspension stiffness. The black, soft springs give a softer, relaxed, lower stance to it, while the dark grey shocks (known from the set 8880) are lifting the truck to a practical maximum, but still can reach full articulation. Not in all situations good to have your truck up in the sky. Like the climbing in the video. With low shock setting it made 52 degrees, but 47 "only" on big wheels and lifted shocks. The center of gravity moves with your ground clearance. That's about it, the rest is smoke-screen, like the body, and fancy doors. Oh, here is a fun fact: When it came to the seats, I realised I have 2 adjustable seats salvaged from a lorry build from about 5 years ago. Luckily they fit perfect so just made a rear bench in the same style. A non adjustable lazy style. Please feel free to ask about it, or just say something about cutting axles. I hope you find something useful here to take home with you.
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It's finally here - my studless remake of the very first Technic helicopter: It's been a bit of a long journey to get here, not only because of the work put into this model, but also because of the many failed TC15 entry ideas... Originally, I had planed on building a replica of the Hoversurf S3 2019 Hoverbike (which is basically a quadcopter you can ride on), but the small size of Lego propellers restricted me to such a small size, that I just couldn't fit any functions into it. Next, continuing the idea of some sort of quadcopter, I did some googling for other quadrotor aircraft, and although I managed to find some (in particular, the Curtiss-Wright VZ-7 and X-19), that idea also failed... Then, after a few days of thinking, I decided to just make something completely different - a flight simulator, based on the 8485 Technic Control Center. With this idea, I actually managed to make enough progress to post a WIP topic, and stuck with it for a several weeks, until I sadly had to abandon that as well... Finally, after trying and abandoning a few other ideas, and with only a few weeks left before the contest deadline, I stumbled across the idea of making a modern studless version of set 852 - the very first Technic helicopter, and one of the original four Technic sets released in 1977: Fast forward 3 weeks, the contest deadline has thankfully extended by 2 weeks (thanks @Jim ), and I've finally finished building... Features: Full studless construction - not a single stud in sight! Near perfect 3/4 scale (relative to the original set). Accurate collective rotor pitch control - unlike the original, where the rotor pitch is decreased when the swash plate rises. Manually powered drive train - can also be motorized, as seen in the video. Video: Instructions: (click on the image below to go to the Rebrickable page ) Links: Entry topic post Bricksafe (more photos and digital model files) Rebrickable (instructions) YouTube Original Set on Technicopedia Original Set on Brickset Renders: (made with Blender) Original post: All WIP photos: -
Hello Magnum, Ferrari and Speed Champions fans, this targa topped 1984 Ferrari 308GTSi Quattrovalvole (pictures 1 and 6) was made famous by the television series Magnum, p.i. in which the series' lead, Thomas Magnum (Tom Selleck) drove the car around Oahu for eight seasons while on his investigations, from 1980 to 1988. Several 308 GTS cars were used, a new one for each season, most being auctioned off after filming and all with the license plate ROBIN 1. The berlinetta version of this model is called Ferrari 308GTB Quattrovalvole (pictures 2-5 and 7-8). The design inspiration of this model came from a Ferrari 308 Matchbox which I received as a child. Building instructions are available on the following links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-64110/_TLG_/magnum-pi-ferrari-308-gts-gtb-quattrovalvole/#details or https://www.mocsmarket.com/lego-mocs/instructions-moc-magnum-p-i-ferrari-308-gts-gtb-quattrovalvole/ They are a studless builds in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek models which are as accurate as possible in this small scale. Only two stickers are used per model: the rectangular Ferrari logo, and the vehicle registration plate, to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The models contain lots of details: for example the emblematic air vents on the hood (black on GTS and red on GTB), the front bumper with the turn signal lights, the tilted front grill, the rear three quarter window with black cover, the turn signal lights on the front side, the black stripe on the sides, the side-view mirrors, the tiltable seats etc.. Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic rear side with the vehicle registration plate, here there is a half stud offset. I tried to fill every unecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for two minifigures. I suggest to use small hairs. Without the seats and the two interior tan tiles minifigures with bigger hairs can be used too if they are leaned back. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Magnum's car 01 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 02 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 03 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 04 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 05 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Magnum's car 06 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 07 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 08 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr
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