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Showing results for tags 'track'.
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I was fiddling around with an old car MOC found on Rebrickable (based on a vehicle from the LEGO City Undercover game), seeing what colors I could make it into when I discovered dark tan was possible. Me being me, I then turned the car into a rail mobile because I thought it would look cool on my railroad. Thus, it became Track Inspection Vehicle No. 4. It may sound odd, but during the 1970s, railroads in the US were cash-strapped, worn out and over-regulated - they were looking for cheap, quick fixes in every way in order to stay afloat, and this was a way to save a few bucks. If you are wondering why I chose this color - it is meant to be a dirty, ugly, strange color as the railroad isn't trying to impress anyone with this vehicle... and this kind of dark tan actually was a popular color in the 1970s! The rear of the vehicle. The car's roof comes off so one figure can sit at the wheel and the trunk opens. Thoughts? -
Hi, I'm just getting the hang of LDD. It's very addictive! After a few basic models with simple bricks I have moved on to my first Technic model. I am having a go at the mini-bulldozer in Lego Technic set 8259. You can see the model has two tracks, formed of 23 x part #15379. I have created two strips of track but don't know how to connect the ends together to form a loop. How do you "pick up" one end and loop it round to connect to the other end? Can anyone help me out please? Many thanks! Stefan -
Hello there! Is there any concensus about what to use when tracking ones LEGO collection on the web: Is it rebrickable.com or brickset.com? Or maybe another website? I have a medium mixed collection, lots of sets, some with missing parts which I would need to take note of, as well as lots of single bricks / plates / whatever. I'd love to hear your input on what you think would be the best tool for the job. Thanks & Regards, Chris
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Hi all, In January 2014 I build a small 9v LEGO train layout. I use Mindstorms nxt 2.0 to control the trains and switches. Now I’ve found this video, I’ve uploaded to my YouTube Channel. The layout works like this: 1. Both trains are running on the outer track. The nxt motor controls the big yellow button on the Speed Regulator. 2. Due to small differences in the train motor and the weight of the trains, the come closer to each other. 3. If the distance between the two trains is to small (less than 3 seconds, seen by the ultrasonic sensor), the last train drives to the inner track and stops over there for 10 seconds. A nxt motor switches the switch. 4. The train on the outer track keeps driving. 5. After 10 seconds the train on the inner track moves to the color sensor, just before the switch and stops. 6. If the train on the outer track passes the other switch (ultrasonic switch), the train on the inner track starts moving to the outer track. 7. Then it all starts over again. Let me know what you think about this layout! I’m also curious how you guys control your trains and switches. Any automation with Mindstorms?? ?
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Hallo, here is just an idea of a pait of switches which are parallel an uses a 40 and a 56 radius. just let me know in the comments what you think of this idea.
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Hi all, I recently picked up an old bundle of 9v stuff and I'm a bit stuck with son power issues and hope someone can help. I'm a 12v guy so I'm a bit lost! ?. The transformer seems to work. I can't get any power to the track. If I connect a cable from the transformer to the motor directly it works fine (or seems to anyway). When I connect the track connector cable to the track it just won't work. I've tried cleaning the track etc. Also, if I leave the normal 9v cable connected to the motor and then place it on the track with the track connector attached it cuts the power to the motor. Does that make sense to anyone? Haha. Hope someone can help as I'm baffled. Cheers!
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Hello everyone, as i didn't see any Mods topic for this set, i decided to start it myself, and to start, i would like to share with you the LDD file for the official set (not sure if there was one already), there are some parts missing and some pieces are not fully connected (could i have used developer mode to solve this? yes, but for some reason i decided just to place apart the pieces i couldn't fit in), here is the model: Missing parts: -x4 24118 Panels in Dark Purple (Brick-built and grouped in the model) -x11 6167281 (I didn't add any substitute) -x1 6187734 (The rope) LDD file:http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/42069/42069.lxf And next is my modifications for this set so far, the first thing that i wanted to do was to put wheels and tires, and because this is an snow-themed set, i decided to put tumbler tires, and i knew that these tires didn't look good in those very wide axles, with these tires the vehicle would look silly, but after narrowing the axle a little bit, i think it is looking like an authentic snow expedition vehicle (it even looks like an JLTV from the sides), i also changed some colors, but is just a test (the model is still WIP): The goal is XL-Motor for drive, Servo Motor for steering and M or L-Motor for the winch (and possibly some lights): I hope you like it, i will try to make more improvements, and i am looking forward to see more modifications by any other member, have happy modding. -
Hi there! my latest moc is a mini track loader. it has a funtioning front blade, tilt, lift, and a rear cabin door. This was built to be like a lego set, and use color vomit in areas. I may make a b model, to make it like a real set. My neighborhood is also getting repaved, and they were using one, so it works. enjoy, and comment thoughts. instructions and parts list uploading. here https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-2NrU9MqJ-WSXpHR3VjY2p5R1k?usp=sharing -
Did anyone use all curve tracks included ME Models track? I just designed a loop layout that used all curve tracks! But I am very sad because I can't play it at my home:( My tables are shorter than 3m. Do you have any idea?
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Hi! I'm in the process of revamping my layout. One thing I wanted to change was to make the track bed look as realistic as possible. Namely, I wanted single spaced railroad ties instead of the Lego double spaced tie. Single spaced ties are easy to do on the straight sections but the curves present more of a challenge. I looked around the forum for design ideas and didn't see anything specific so set about to figure out the problem myself. Seeing some of the great layouts on here (Texas LUG, PennLUG) I knew it could be done which makes the battle a little easier. Here is what I came up with. DSC01329 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01331 by Scott Roys, on Flickr
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Here is the result of spending a few restful days at the seaside with a handful of arctic sets: the Goliath, a heavy arctic snowcat. It is built from parts coming from the other arctic vehicles in order to combine some of their play features. Arctic team in action by Veynom, on Flickr The Goliath is great at crossing any kind of difficult landscape: Goliath in Action by Veynom, on Flickr Arctic Goliath Snowcat by Veynom, on Flickr The Goliath is packed with many features; - forward cab to host the driver and an additional passenger with room for some equipment as well; - large storage compartiment in the centre to put 2 crates; - fully equipped lab at the rear side; - tow cable; - Plenty of powerful lights to enlighten the arctic night; - remote camera on the roof; - Additional storage locations around the vehicle to clip many different tools; - radar and radio antennas. Rien de tel pour épauler l'équipe : Goliath deployed. by Veynom, on Flickr Here is the lab: Inside the Goliath by Veynom, on Flickr More pictures: Arctic Goliath Snowcat by Veynom, on Flickr Arctic Goliath Snowcat by Veynom, on Flickr Arctic team in action by Veynom, on Flickr I know making an arctic vehicle during summer and taking pictures on the beach is not perfect as background for the model, sadly, I can't change sand into snow. ;) Arctic team in action by Veynom, on Flickr Arctic Goliath by Veynom, on Flickr I love holidays. I hope you enjoy yours as well.
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Does you track need to be repaired after a major storm? Want to connect Point A to Point B with a brand new rail-line? Did the Flying Kipper have another accident on the main line? Or maybe you want to upgrade the signaling and double track the line at the same time? Call out the Maintenance Of Way (MOW) train to fix all these problems and more! This train consists of a late-1950's diesel locomotive, or a mid-1930's large eight-driving wheel steam engine and six specialty cars: - a (working!) crane car - depressed-center rail wagon - a (working!) ballast hopper - a tanker car - workman's tool car - caboose The 4-8-4 steam loco is new-to-me, and began life as a 2-8-4 Berkshire type built by Plastic_Goth and purchased from Rebrickable a seen here. To make this steamer, I upped the wheel count of @Plastic_Goth's locomotive by another leading axle, making it into a 4-8-4 Northern-type from the original 2-8-4 as built in the instructions. The new piston / wheel assembly is entirely my own work, as is the completely new 7-wide tender. The inside of the cab features two gauges and the firebox door. This model was originally a ALCO MRS-1 built by @SavaTheAggie, but has been so severely modified that it no longer looks like the prototype loco. So I went searching And found another ALCO locomotive, a RSD-12 that looks like my loco. Both my model and the prototype have the six wheels, and the same basic hood and cab design. The long hood of the loco has been designated the rear with a double red light. This car carries liquid weed killer for use after the track has been laid. This stream crane model was heavily inspired by Whoward69's instructions for a set of crane and match truck train cars. I modified the original model seen here. (sadly, it seems his Flickr profile and pictures has been deleted) I originally meant for the crane to have ropes to move the boom, but it got confusing on which rope went where so for now it's moved by the H.O.G. (Hand Of God) method. The crane can spin around in 360 degrees and lift anywhere up to 90 degrees straight up. (Their is a double set of pins keeping the boom from going too low, as well.) The heavy-duty depressed-center wagon has brick-built arms to secure the cargo of prefabricated railroad track in place. This model was inspired by a coal hopper on an older website called LGauge .com. I turned the old finger hinges into new pin-orientated ones and colored the car yellow to match the MOW paint scheme. The hopper's bottom doors open and can dump 1 x 1 round plates / bricks onto the tracks for ballast. This old passenger car carries the workmen and their tools. The caboose features two ladders (one per side) and more of those fancy printed 2 x 4 tiles. If you like what you see in this topic, check out the home base of the train and assorted other vehicles in this thread here! Thoughts? Comments, Suggestions, & Complaints always welcome!
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10 minutes, it is very long, but I promise you that you will not be disappointed by this latest video of my little series. For those who are interested, they can see the "making off" of the full series here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=119844 -
Hello all fellow train folks, today I have another MOC but it isn't a train, it is a track piece that we haven't been able to get in 10 years. Here it is more info to follow. 1). It has to be the same size as previous tracks. 2). It would need to use minimal parts and be easy to construct. 3). It would need to be as quiet as possible or be as quiet as standard Lego tracks when the train rolls over it. 4). It would have to be stable and would not fall apart in use. I hope you all enjoy my MOC and this track piece. I you feel inclined constructive criticism is always welcome! If you thought It was brilliant you can support it here: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/131973
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Already two years ago, I got inspired at defeating steep hills with the LiteJeep. That could already beat 50 degrees, but because of its high riding height (good for offroading) and relatively heavy PF L motors, I reckoned there would be more irons to put into the hill-climbing fire. Very important things for hillclimbing are sufficient grip, huge power and a low weight. Weight ultimately gives more grip, but it also causes the vehicle to flip earlier when it is located above the center of gravity. With these factors into the equation, I decided to create a vehicle with loads of grip, so with 4 rubber tracks, and with articulated steering to make a sturdy connection between right and left possible, which is essential for climbing: when any vehicle is climbing, the suspension does unexpected things, so a stiff frame and suspension setup are required. Lightweight design requires a low complexity too, so that is why articulated steering is chosen. Having a front and rear part to let the vehicle adjust its shape to the terrain is an option I used several times in my rubber-tracked vehicles. This is the first vehicle in which I used the maximum footprint instead of the triangular form, again for maximum grip. Please note that, when you choose for the sturdyness and simplicity of articulated steering ánd want to let it adjust to the terrain, the middle joint becomes very complex as it contains joints in two axes! There is always a place where pain comes back. The Law of Conservation of Pain holds here.. In this case, all the trouble was in the difficult joint, which took about 5 hours alone. Then for the power: initially an XL motor was used in the front, but having a driveshaft through the already complex dual joint proved to be impossible. And then the idea came. Why not generate the power at the place where it is needed? Why not, if there are two separate parts, have some powerplant in both front and rear? But then there was a problem: I have a very large project in which all my three L motors are used. This pushed me in the direction of using M-motors, which proved out to be a very good forced choice. Combined with the lightness of the overall model, they proved to have ample torque left with a 3:1 gear ratio, having enough torque to keep the four tracks spinning all time when grip was lost. This is amazing, and you can see why Lego has put two M motors in their latest Tracked Racer. But the limits of that thing are way lower than the Quattrack's limit. Using two PF medium motors for drive and one for steering, this one of my very few (and maybe the last) Lego Technic MOC with only 2006 components. The Sbrick will throw all range headaches away and have much less delay than the stone-age PF IR remote it is replacing. Why did I use such standard power functions components? The new PF servo is slow and quirky, a medium motor allows for much more smoothness in steering. Moreover, if you are driving at steep slopes like this, it asks all your concentration to keep it on the move. If you cannot feel where the remote control knobs are (The intrinsic problem of the Sbrick) the vehicle will fall of before you've compensated. So the old system proved to be the best system in this situation. The articulated joint actually contains 3 joints, to have a suspension force on it in both directions: up and down. That is why there are rubber bands and one shock absorber. By the way, also the steering joint is included. Now, because the front and rear part of the Quattrack are relatively conventional (no steering nor differentials), all the pain of good and accurate steering is shifted to the design of this central joint. I dare to state that the success of this vehicle relies for a big part on this 2D joint. In the video, the operation is explained. On this photo, it looks as if the ground clearance is half a stud. This is not the case; in fact, it is over 1 stud. The underside is very smooth, which helps the low superstructure to glide over obstacles. Because of the weight saving, I designed it to have very clean looks. Styling means more weight. However, I managed to squeeze in some little details like fake cabin flashing lights, front lights, rear lights, cabin seats and a steering wheel. The reason why I did this, is that I wanted it to be a possible real-life vehicle as well, not just a scientific experiment. Adding weight is bad for climbing ability, so I tested the Quattrack also with the cabin removed and say what !!? The climbing angle was the same. This front look shows all that. The Quattrack contains everything, but nothing more. You do not need a zillion pieces of Lego to break records. Only 556 grams of it is sufficient in some cases. The video is the proof of all my theories... [media] I have not put all text and photo's on Eurobricks. More is to be found on Brickshelf and MocPages. If you like my video's, you might want to take a look on my YouTube channel. -
I am sure this has been done in various variations over the years after Lego ceased production of train track crossing (last produced in 1999 for 9v tracks). I only have PF train tracks so I made my own version. Below is a Bluerender rendered version I put together in LDD and below that are actual brick built. Note that the track requires to be raised as a result, by a brick, or at least 2 plates. Update: Here is the updated crossing only image that has a center tiled section to help with 2878c01 train wheels which have a narrower wheel spacing. Train Track Crossover Ver2 Crossing only by Miro Dudas, on Flickr https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3ME1BfzxExrR3YtRVN5Vi1hUEE Miro
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We have been working on a software to design and automate LEGO train and monorail layouts. The first BETA version of nControl is out and can be downloaded for free from the 4DBrix site. It has a track planner for train and monorail layouts and has the first elements of the automation simulation: track switches, traffic lights and sound effects. We also have 2 YouTube videos to get you started. Download link: https://www.4dbrix.com/downloads Getting started videos: https://youtu.be/wddnCAJZTlQ https://youtu.be/w2RDMXt1sgQ Let us know what you think; any feedback, suggestions or ideas for additional features are welcome! Lowa
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Hi everyone, I have created a small landscape based on the first novel of the Harry Potter series. The scene is the first time that Harry is in Gringotts with Hagrid by his side and they are escorted by Griphook through the caves. I wanted a few tracks in the built and one of the tracks needed a drop. I was glad that I had the right tubes to create the track. Here is a picture of the built. Here is the link to my Flickr album. https://www.flickr.com/photos/137652851@N07/albums/72157673161817395/with/29253037211/ The photo's are also on my brickshelf account. http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=564894 Questions and feedback are welcome. Sander
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Hi everyone, Here's an older MOC virtually no one has seen. It's my first fully RC model: Thanks! C&C PLEASE! BrickbyBrickTechnic -
My second build for the 2017 LEGO Speeder Bike Contest, for the Overkill Oval category. The track was probably the most difficult part of this build, and it ended up going through several iterations before settling on the current design. Ready to tear through opponents, the Rock Wrecker’s brutal saw and powerful laser are a deadly combination. And if things really get out of hand, its deployable missiles in the hidden undercarriage compartment end things with a bang. More pictures on Brickbuilt Thanks for looking, C&C welcome
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Hello All, I am looking for 12v trains that are 100% complete along with track and transformers to start my 12v collection. I am in the U.S. so I have had a hard time finding any 12v trains for a decent price. Please comment here or PM me with information if you are willing to sell any Thanks, -Cameron Muir
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Hi All , just signed in to this forum cause I was wondering about something .... I'm into the 12 volt train system again and was wondering about modified 12 volt track . Hs anyone done some modifiyng on tracks , switches ,etc. ? Here's some pics of my own creations untill now... A half straight track with original contacts a point prototype with same angle as 2 curved rails Let's see what you guys have !
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Our first three types of custom train tracks are ready and available in our Bricklink store. The goal is to make an extended track system for LEGO trains so you have a much higher flexibility in building your layout; just like we did for the monorail. Let us know if there are any other types of track you would like to have... FYI: the tracks are printed with a custom developed Dark Blush Gray abs filament so that our tracks match the color of the LEGO RC tracks: the cross track below is 3D printed, the straight track below is a genuine LEGO track.
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What if Lego created a line of road baseplates with train tracks embedded in them? What type of sections would everyone like to see? the ones I can think of now are: single track: straight segments curve segments Junctions crossings slopes. Double track: straight segments curve segments junction segments crossover segments crossings slopes. general: sections where track is are either red or green in color for public transport only sections where track is are same as rest of street for mixed traffic Sections where there is interlaced track should be included such as special points and other areas for such track there should also be areas where the tracks transition to normal LEGO rails as well
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The next project brewing in my head will be a place for my tube trains to call, two through tracks and side platforms. I would really like to be able to use 32 stud baseplates for this (four of them end to end). The question is, can I narrow the gap between long lengths of straight track, e.g four stud gap rather than eight, and easily bring them back to geometry at the ends, not necessarily using standard Lego curves/straights, and avoiding flexible track if possible?
