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Hey everyone! Today I present to you: My RC tracked snowplow! For propulsion, I used 1 Spike Prime M-Motor to drive each tread with a 1.67:1 gear ratio. This enables it to make a perfect zero point turn. The two Control+ M-Motors seen above control the lifting and angling of the plow blade via two large linear actuators. The plow is easily removed by pulling the red 6L axle out of the front teal axle-pin connectors in the center of the plow and disconnecting the 5L black liftarm connected to the linear actuator that controls the blade angle. The hub is accessible by lifting the roof, and the blade can be easily stored inside the vehicle: Here are photos of the code and control panel: I did not make instructions for this, BUT I am planning on making a similar vehicle: a tracked RC offroader. Although it will be similar, there will be some major differences and upgrades. I DO plan to make instructions for that.
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Even before the release of the Lego 42069 set, I’ve always wanted to make a 4x4 vehicle with triangular tracks. Seeing that the season is perfect for vehicles like these (the snow!), I decided it’s finally time I make my dream come true. The build started out with, obviously, making the 4 triangular tracks. Drive is transferred to the tracks via a large sprocket, and two small sprockets form the triangular shape. There are also two small wheels at the bottom that guide the tracks and help reduce slack. The track modules are attached to their axles with a small turntable, which allows it tilt back and forth and also keeps it well attached to prevent it from falling off. The axles are attached to the chassis with 4 suspension arms, 3 links, and 2 6.5L shock absorbers. The entire vehicle is driven by 2 L motors, with 1 per axle. A servo motor at the center of the chassis controls steering, with the front output controlling the front axle and the rear output controlling the rear. The drive/steering setup is similar to that of the 9398. Since there are no mechanical connections between the two driven axles, I added an extra M motor just to drive the V6 piston engine. The fake engine is chain-driven and can be seen by opening the hood, which can be locked in place. The model also includes Lego LEDs that light up the front lights. However, due to the bright sunlight when I filmed it, I could not demonstrate this feature. As for the performance, the model could drive on snow pretty well. The use of tracks over wheels was advantageous in that it has better weight distribution, which reduces stress on the motor. However, since tracks are a lot less grippier than wheels, even a small obstacle means that the tracks will slip, so I had to omit differentials in the drivetrain. The lack of differentials meant that one of the tracks on each axle will be stressed when making a turn, which is why one of the tracks can be seen driving slightly tilted when making a turn. Using rubber inserts, however, may have helped with the tracks slipping, but unfortunately I do not have any at this point. The tracks also feature stoppers on the back that limit their maximum tilt, as the tracks would often tilt too far in its initial tests, especially when overcoming an obstacle.The entire model is powered by a rechargeable battery, which, despite delivering less voltage than the AA battery box, gave the model plenty of power. Overall, I am very satisfied with the result. The model was a success not only in performance but also in aesthetics. In fact, I think this is my best-looking pickup truck model so far. Video: Photos:
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Hi, another Mini-MOC for you: here comes the Mini-Skidder This little thing is very powerful as it uses 2 L-Motors for drive and a third L-Motor for steering. Watch the video: On my brick safe page you can find the pics in higher resolution and of course an LDD-File: https://bricksafe.com/files/Leonard_Goldstein/woody_and_the_woodpicker/Woody-Woodpicker_V02.lxf Let me know what you think Regards Leonard Goldstein -
Hi Newbie around here, used to play with lego back in the days and somehow got back into it but this time as grown up and and adjusted gaming budget ended up buying some Lego Technics models along the way (mainly stuff with tracks :) ). So got my hands on the 42065 Tracked Racer, really liked it but fell in love with the B-Model/Off Road Truck and started putting my two RC 5292 motors into it. Here is a short video about the evolution to my so far "final" v5.3 Mod: Short recap about the progress: replacing the two PF motors with the RCs, and going for an SBrick increasing the wheel base and changing to 3:1 gearing, then getting to know about the fuse inside the battery box, adding suspension, moving the battery up increasing the wheelbase again to get two battery boxes inside and double the SBricks, and change to 1,667:1 gearing Putting the RCs horizontal with a 2.5:1 gearing Currently working on: Getting a GoPro attached Getting it a bit water/splash proof to be able to go through some puddles (so far cling foil wrapping battery cases) ToDo: Get some filminig done of the v5.3 with the 2.5:1 gearing Getting the PS3 controller working on the Nexus 5 together with the SBrick Future ideas Improving suspension, weight is currently heavy on the rear Getting a winch into it on the rear or front Automatic two gear box to get faster on plain surface and getting more torque when going through terrain, looking at sariels automatic two gear box so far, but it probadly wont fit p.s. These are my first attempts at shooting videos as well, so bear with me ;-) . Most of them are handheld from my Google Pixel while driving with my other hand on my old Nexus 5
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The only thing worse than a hungry meat-eating dinosaur on your tail is one with a tank! (Well, getting caught is pretty bad, too.) Battery: 7.4V PF LiPo rechargeable in place (was AA box) RC receiver/controller : SBrick/custom joystick on Android phone (was PF with bang-bang handset) Motors: L front and rear (were Ms) Drive train: Direct drive (no change) Steering: Differential power to the tracks (no change) Tracks: Lugs every link for traction (new) Overall dimensions: 206x170x146 mm (LxWxH) Mass: 546 g (down from 599 g) Installed power: 4.3 W (was 1.5) Power to mass ratio: 7.9 W/kg (was 2.5) Stalled torque: 0.52 N m (was 0.18) The biggest and most important advance over 42065 was in outdoor play value -- by far my best yet in any MOC or MOD. The biggest contributors there were the L motors and the red rubber track lugs. Dinotrack performance was generally traction-limited without the lugs. Photos and write-up at http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/441699 -
This is my first "published" c-model. It took me the last 2-3 weeks in total to build it. It was one of the reasons, why i paused on my speed-racer :) When my daughter (5) baught this model (42065 Tracked Racer), she wanted a lego rc car wich she could play with. But since the steering with the 2 tracks is pretty complicated and too hard for her, i decided to build a model with a regular steering from the set. I was thinking about building a halftracked vehicle at first, but then i decided to build a snowmobile. It was a really hard way, because of really limited amount of parts in this set (369) and the fact, that there is not a single gear included in the set . All in all i think i totally rebuildet the model 3-4 times until the current result. I still dont like it 100%, but its ok to play with for my daughter, and i need time for my own project again :) What funtions does it have?: - PF drive + steering - pendular front suspension - working handlebar (can be used as HOG) - virtual "differential" aka linear clutch at the rear axle for better steering. Motor drives left side front of the tracks, right side is connected with the clutch at the rear axle. - seat acts as PF-on-switch. A driver sitting down on it will move the battery-box to "on"-position :) -> you can see it in the video Here you can see the linear clutch in the middle of the "rear axle" footrests size comparision leftover parts Technically the chassis idea is based on something like this. -
So I've been contemplating what to build for the contest as the volume restrictions is something that should fall exactly in my area of expertise, but with RC allowed, it got a bit complex. To fully handle a crane or excavator you need 5 or 6 motors, so either two hubs or something like buwizz 3.0 which supports 6 motors, and I'm not really sure if I'll be able to fit all that perfectly within the specified volume while not making it a messy build. So I decided to stick to stuff that I can power with a single hub, and I love the ease of use of physical remote from CADA so I ended up deciding to go with a tracked vehicle + two mechanical functions, so after looking at multiple options I decided to pick a tracked skid-steer loader - a bobcat: I like this one because it has an interesting geometry of the arms, which I expect to be there in order to prevent the bucket getting closer to the cab while the arms are getting raised. I yet have to test this theory. Here's a concept / design so far: I tested the geometry of the arm against keeping the bucket at same angle while the arm is changing its angle, assuming the lever holding liftarm over the arm has fixed angle, and it works more or less. I don't have a bucket yet, and I've got to figure out the driving connection for it that has a significant gear reduction as well as it should have some safety like clutch gear, but I'm not sure if it is a good idea considering weight of the bucket. I'm not 100% sure that I'll be able to go with the design of the arm that is supported by that liftarm to move forward/keep horizontal position of the bucket, especially because of the requirements for the bucket tilt lever connection to the motor. Additional note here is that the tracks are shaped in a way that rear gears one exactly above each other because I couldn't achieve optimal track tension in other configurations and also I would have to make more space for the attachment of linear actuators behind the tracks and it would complicate the base structure. Finally I might end up with arms hitting the cab, so maybe I'll have to move them by 1 stud to the sides, which would made the proportions weird, but I don't think I'll be able to shrink the cab without showing a mess of cables.
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Hello, I would like to show you my project it has been a year and a half in the making and is functioning pretty well. - Christie suspension, spring loaded track tensioner - 6 XL motors, easily reconfigurable to 4 or 2 - 1:5 Gear ratio, 1070 RPM - 8 KM/h @ 12V / 730 RPM- 5.5 KM/h @ 9V - Gear ratio reconfigurable from 1:5 to 1:2.333 - 3 buwizz needed for ludicrous speed @ 1:5 - Two versions, 42065 inspired racing tank and "drone" shovel loader - Stud.io files are available in the bricksafe link Drives very good, the track tensioner keeps the tracks from throwing themselves off in corners most of the time. I have been trying to intgerate a gearbox but it gets too bulky or can not withstand the torque required. Any feedback or advice is appreciated! -
[MOC] [WIP] Mercedes-Benz dump truck. Hello, I decided to go make a moc. I bought the arocs last november and i was like:"hmm, i have enough stuff to build a good moc." so i started to make a plan. A simple painting in word 2013 and i made some challenges and requirements for myself. Here is a list: RC functions: Driving Steering Outtrigger Sideway Tipping(which side is not decided yet.) Manual functions: Openable doors Switch rc/handdrive HoG steering Other specs: Suspended, driven tracks Suspended steering frontwheels Outrigger will have 2 stages, driven by one motor with the use of a differential. There will only be one outrigger on one side, depends on what side the truck is gonna dump. 19 studs wide (made the tracks and they turned out te be 19 studs wide) PF stuff 1x XL motor for driving 2x L- motor for outtriggers and tipping 1x M- motor for steering Will probably use the cabin of the arocs (42043) 2 receivers batterybox Challenges: Driven tracks(first time i work with tracks) 2 staged outriggers will be difficult. Unusual way to dump. Find a way to switch from handdrive/steer to RC. Advanced gearbox to make all this possible here is a rough sketch i made in word. i know this is gonna be a weird non-existing truck. but my goal is to make a really advanced truck and to learn things from it. i'm sure i'll do. 1. i only play with lego on sundays so don't expect to see updates midweek. 2. i also have no idea how it's gonna go and i don't know if I'm able to do all this. this is my first moc and this not a technical easy one. 3. another thing i wanna tell you is that i don't have receivers now. I had 2 from 8043 but the are both broken. 4. i ordered 2 by the customerservice broken bricks, but they were not available so i don't know when the moc will be finished. i also made no deadline for myself. the tracks now about the tracks, it was pretty difficult for me to build proper tracks, since i have never build one. the first problem i ran into was the good length. i built a track, all pretty well, but when i put on the actual trackpieces, it turned out that they were a half track too long. it just didn't fit. i also could not remove a piece because otherwise it would be too short. i experimented a bit with it but i wasn't able to get it right. Then i got the idea to look in the building instructions. so i did and i had a nice fitting track. i have to say, it is still a little bit loose, but that's probably supossed to. but then another problem came along. on a 5*7 bracket i put a small turntable to have a sort of suspension. but when i made my fitting track and put it on, the thing was waay to wide. (note: the photo's are taken with my smartphone. I don't have a normal camera so quality is pretty bad. sorry for that.) that's the reason i had to make a whole gear system in the tracks. you can see them on the picture above. the gears are coming out of the turntable right in the middle of the track. it took quite a while to lead the axle to the actual wheel. but that's done and i am satisfied wih the result. the black line shows how the axles and gears are going here are some more pictures. on the picture above you see how you can detach a track. it's pretty simple. i put 4 of these pieces(I don't know how to describe them) on the turntable with 3l pins. i now have 4 cross hole to attach to another piece. i just put 2 4l axles with stop in it as you can see. the axles go through 5*7 bracket and i put a half yellow bush on the underside. as written earlier the total width is 19 studs. the tracks are 5studs and i have 2 of them. i have a 5*7 bracket. with two beams and the 2 small turntables which are 1 stud. the tracks are each 37 pieces long which brings it in total to 74 pieces. I was happy to find out that it was as wide as the arocs because i'm going to use the cabin. Here is a picture. this is the result. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- the outrigger I just finished the outtrigger. I wanted an outrigger with 2 stages like 42009 which could be expanded with one motor. i used a differential for that this is the first stage. you see that i used 2 bevel gears to drive 2 gearracks to expand outwards. then i used a u-bracket to transfer it down. the outtrigger is laying upside down, so the axle is going down, not up. this is the whole thing(not finished) you see that i used a small LA to do the downward movement. this means it can go down 4 studs. the LA is sticking out but i don't care about that since 42043 has that as well and that's a official lego set. here is the finished one: as you can see, it can expand 7 studs sideways and 4 studs downwards. if it is retracted, the thing is 22 studs wide which is a little bit wider than the tracks. it is 8 studs hight and 9 studs wide. 22*8*9. i used 26 gears in total. it took me a day to build and i'm pretty ok with it. below is a picture from the outrigger as seen from the bottom. you see the differential.you turn the differential with the big black bevel gear, the right side goes to the ----------------------------------------------------------------------- front wheels today i moved on the front suspension. i disassembled the 42043 B-model and i only left the cabin+grille. when nothing was left but the pieces, i began building. i had a great idea(i thought) my idea was this: i attached those black pieces and a ball joint. then i use some liftarms and attached it to a frame. it worked pretty well and i was happy, yeah this is going so well!! look under here, full independent, it can steer, no problem. yeah!!! then i saw something horrible, it was a 'little bit' too wide. i experimented a bit but i found out, that those wheelhubs combined with liftarms are too wide. look at the second picture: luckily, i remebered a topic about suspended axles, so i looked throug my history and fount this topic. i looked for a while and build this axle: (finally good quality ) i used the road wheels, not the balloon ones. the building instructions on LDD are 'great'. #not. but i managed to build it. i ran into a few problems. 1. i don't have a powerjoint. so i had to use a normal 5x7 bracket for the differential. a 2. another problem. if i don't use the powerjoint, how am i gonna attach the axle to the chassis. i used a sort of life axle idea. or is it a real life axle? 3. to drive the differential,i had to use a half thick 20z bevel gear. i first did that but it was not sturdy enough. the gear slipped out several times. after messing with it for a while, i came up with the idea to just turn the axle around and use a double bevel gear. 4. the steering didn't work at first because, it could not move forward to the axle, if you know what i mean. if you steer a wheel, the gear racks moves a bit forward, but the bracket was in it's way so that didn't work. i put the gear rack on the upside and it had space to move, but the gears slipped. i placed just two blue 5x3 L-beams to fix that. all in all, i changed quite a bit of the axle and only 50% of so is from the original building instructions. check it out below. it can steer very well and has a bit ackerman geometry. it works fine though. i attached the spring to the liftarm so i don't have to make a whole structure to attach it to the truck. it has a travel of 2 studs. that is not much but it works, and i'm fine. it was not my goal to have as much travel as possible. i'm pretty satisfied with it, it works fine. the next step is attaching the arocs grille and cabin. i think, i'm gonna use the 6l fake motor as well. the axle is 19 studs wide, just like the tracks and the cabin summary: i am building a non existing truck with driven and suspende. tracks and steered, driven, suspended frontwheels. it will have a sideway dumping and an outtrigger to that side with two stages like 42009. it will be rc and have a switch so you can drive manually. i'm gonna use the arocs cabin because it's a wonderful piece of lego. this is my fist moc so i don't know how it will turn out. for details and building process, check out the whole first post. if have now build: - tracks - front wheels - cabin and grille - outrigger i have to build: - nice frame to put on the cabin and grille. - gearbox for all functions and motors and a switch : manual-->rc. - a mechanism to dump sideways. - a bed, you know, where you put in the stuff to dump. -
Here is my latest creation!! The tracked crane! I recently bought a bucket and 2 l motors so I thought I would build a crane, logically . The crane goes up and down with a LA, and the bucket moves on a LA both connected to separate m motors. The drive is through direct driven l motors on tracks. This is in no way final, and I would like to make instructions for the final model. What do you think? better pics soon. -
Hi! I built a telescopic tracked car, that can extend in two directions to overcome obstacles ? Have a look and subscribe to my channel, if you want more videos like that (building instructions available). Thanks!
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Just an idea I've had for one of my projects but eventually decided not to use it because it looked wrong for this particular project. It works fine, though, so I'm sharing. It's pretty simple and may be obvious, but perhaps it will help someone. -
Functions/features: Driven tracks Articulated steering Tipping bed Opening cabin doors Video: Photos: -
Hello! The 42069 was the first set I’ve bought for about 15 years, and despite my initial intention to play with it together with my 4-year-old son, I soon got into modding it quite heavily, and he went back to his City and 42023. :) So here’s what I’ve done to it so far. ADDED COMPONENTS List of motors and electronic components added to the model: 4x PF L motors 1x PF XL motor 2x PF M motors 2x PF Servo motors 1x PF switch 24x Brickstuff LEDs 2x BuWizz 1x sBrick some PF & Brickstuff wires DRIVE The drivetrain/axle design is mostly RacingBrick’s design with 4x PF L motors (one for each track/wheel connected directly) and a Servo for steering, with some cosmetic changes to avoid self-disassembly of the suspension on rough terrain. ORIGINAL FUNCTIONS Both side compartments now house BuWizz units, the walls separating them from the middle section have been removed, and the space itself no longer exists, taken by a single sBrick and quite a lot of wires (more about the setup later). The fire extinguishers now sit right next to the seats, ready to use. The shovel drawer remained in place and functional, now also containing the first-aid kit. Pretty much all of the truck’s functions have been motorised, similarly to RacingBrick’s version. I left the rising door mechanism unchanged, I think it’s really cool as it is. WINCH The winch mechanism has been completely ripped out and rebuilt. To provide greater momentum, I used the more powerful XL motor, which I installed right behind and below the front bumper. The first version of the winch was geared 1:1 using three consecutive 32072 knob wheels for extra durability over standard gears, but since they kept getting stuck, I replaced them with regular 16 tooth gears. I considered an alternative setup involving a worm screw, but I wanted to maintain decent speed of the winch. The whole mechanism fitted inside the original bumper design which I modified later (it looked a bit thin to me), so if you like the big motor but not the puffed up front bumper, you should still be able to employ it. Since I didn’t use a clutch gear (which would have ruined the performance), to protect the XL motor from being turned on accidentally a safety-valve was installed in the form of a PF switch, activated with a turn of the gear/knob originally used for the winch. The original tiny hook has been replaced with the 70644 metal hook for extra durability. Alternatively, I sometimes attach the 95354 anchor - it looks a bit freaky, but so does the whole model, and it’s the best solution for hooking the winch up. OTHER There are also two PF M motors: one powering the fake V8 engine, geared up 5:3, and the other one raising the roof. LIGHTING I put a lot of work into the light system of the model with the use of Brickstuff LEDs. Without the additional lights on the interchangeable roof racks the lighting comprises of 24 LEDs: two for each of the main headlights, one for each bullbar light, six blinking turn signals (including one light on each of the wing mirrors), two lights on the original roof rack below the antennae, two taillights (white LEDs under trans-red tiles), four stop lights (similar as taillights next to the reverse lights plus red LEDs under trans-clear round tiles on the trunk door) and two reverse lights. The LEDs are powered from one of the BuWizz outputs via a Brickstuff PF power source with variable outputs. This certain piece deserves a few more words, especially for the readers unfamiliar with Brickstuff. One of its three outputs is always on (thus, all LEDs except for the turn signals, stop lights and reverse lights light up the moment BuWizz connects with the controlling device) and the other two outputs depend on the PF channel activation; in this case the BuWizz output for the lights is synchronised with the steering Servo, resulting in lighting up the corresponding blinkers. Lastly, the stop and reverse lights system involves another Brickstuff gimmick: magnetic switches. The circuit is closed when a small magnet (which fits inside a Technic axle hole) approaches the switch. I put the magnet inside a 1x2 thin liftarm, connected to a Servo, controlled in sync with the track motors. When the Servo is in neutral (with the model stationary), the magnet closes the circuit powering the stop lights. In reverse it approaches another switch, closing the reverse lights circuit, and in forward position it opens both circuits, cutting out the LEDs. (I know it’s a bit much to add a heavy motor just to control some lights, but I couldn’t think of a better solution - any ideas?) An extra bit of lighting comes in the form of two interchangeable roof racks, installed roughly in the location of the original HOG steering knob. I was curious about Brickstuff High-Power LEDs, so I put two of them behind some trans-clear 24116 curved panels and on the roof. The other version of the roof rack includes four regular LEDs similar to those put on the bullbar. The lights are connected to the main grid through Brickstuff vertical connector, which eliminates the need of connecting and disconnecting the fragile wires with every change of the racks or their complete removal. Since the complex lighting system tends to consume a considerable amount of BuWizz’s battery juice, I used another vertical connector to put together an additional master switch, disguised as a red toolbox and located between the dark green jerrycans on the roof rack. BRIDGING LADDERS The last modification, or rather some additional equipment is a pair of bridging ladders, which can be folded and stored on the original roof rack. Fully extended, they’re 49 studs long each (just a bit longer than the truck itself) and, although a bit flimsy, manage to support the weight of the model while crossing gaps or climbing obstacles. There’s also a removable, extendable ladder added to the rear door. CONTROLS As for the double BuWizz-sBrick setup and controlling the model: the BuWizz unit in the right side compartment powers both right L motors, the steering Servo and the winch, and the left unit powers the left L motors, the fake V8 and the sBrick. The raising roof, the LEDs and the Servo controlling the stop and reverse lights are all powered through the sBrick. That leaves one last sBrick output free for some other uses, i.e. motorising the doors. The whole setup is controlled through BrickController2 with the use of a physical controller (a bluetooth gamepad). The app works great with virtually no lag and allows for quick profile changes; I created two profiles: one for regular driving and one for tank driving. Obviously, all the extra elements made the model quite heavy - it now weighs 2700 grams on tracks and 2575 grams on Unimog wheels. However, 2x BuWizz units manage the weight rather effortlessly, especially in Ludicrous mode. OVERALL LOOK Having modified an already sticker-heavy model, I decided to go a little bit further and add some BuWizz & sBrick stickers and Brickstuff printed tiles (three of those came as bonus with consecutive shipments from Brickstuff). The front of the model now looks a bit bulkier with the new bumper, and the addition of the bridging ladders to the roof rack gave it an even more adventure-ready look. I replaced the 2654 trans-clear round tiles on the bull bar and roof rack lights with a trans-yellow variant - I like the look of yellow headlights on vintage race cars. Additionally, the 3069b trans-clear 1x2 tiles on wing mirrors have been replaced with trans-orange ones, because of their newly acquired function of blinkers. Ling to the gallery: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jUqAZh1uowBBGpubQmRs6vS1ASuVkIBU
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MPATEV-01 -> Multi Purpose All Terrain Vehicle 01 LDD file DOWNLOAD The attachments and other photos: WIP TOPIC MPATEV-01 -> Multi Purpose All Terrain Vehicle 01 Hello there! haven't been on the forum for some time and seeing such a contest pop up was a truly delight. Of course first ideas were of the movies "Martian", "Avatar", and "Interstellar", and the idea of building a spaceship seemed exiting. Therefore, i made a sketch of a VTOL transport ship: However building a freighter or a spacestation didn't exite me so much afterall (absolutely nothing to do with my unfinished tc15 plane ) so the next obvious idea was a rover. A human-manned one of course. Seeing that the currents WIPs were using wheels, I had a quick browse through lego sets of space/sci-fi themes and quickly found the Exo-Force 8118. It had a combination of double tracks in front and a single wheel in back that got me interested, as it was unusual and cool-looking, so this sketch came to life: It was originally planned to use brick-built tracks on front but small track links with turntables for central wheels should work. Most probably double offroad motorcycle tyres on rear (better start saving up for PP wheels duh). Obviously doubly buggy motors with 1.667:1 reduction + nuclear reactor BuWizz to power this thing. Current progress:
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This is a type of steering for a tracked vehicle that uses so-called subtractor which means input from motor used for steering is subtracted from the main drive input
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Here is a small vehicle that I built. It is very small and easy to build. You should be able to replicate it from the pictures;) It is fast, stable, and funny looking;) Now I will break it apart so you can see how it’s built:)the track base.and at last the body broken apart. it is powered by BuWizz 2.0 and is driven by two m motors, one per track. Any questions or comments, please let me know;) -
I have always been interested in the Tucker Sno-Cat range of vehicles with their articulating 4 track system (read more at Sno-Cat). This model is based on the 2000 series Sno-Cat, and includes the snow tiller found on the more recent Trail Boss models. This is a significant iteration of a previous MOC that I created a number of years ago, making use of all of the new orange parts that have been gradually released by Lego over the years. This model utilises Buwizz3 (it could be adapted to run with Buwizz2) to drive a number of functions: 4 track drive all track steering (including steering wheel in cab) raise / lower front snow plough raise / lower rear tiller PTO to the rear tiller when model is driven to spin the snow smasher (not the technical name for this part) The model also includes a suspension system and articulating tracks, opening doors, additional controls on the Snow Plough to enable forward/back and horizontal tilt of the blade. Both the Plough and Tiller can be removed to allow for new attachments to be connected to the Sno-Cat.I have used system bricks a bit more extensively that I have ever done before in my technic models to capture the details, both external and inside the cab. A few pictures below and some more at https://bricksafe.com/pages/PvdB/mocs/tucker-sno-cat Also on https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-151766/paulvandebulk/tucker-sno-cat/#details A short and very (very) quickly put together clip https://vimeo.com/836967463 -
Hello, My latest model is the Panzerkampfwagen. I Ausführung B, a German Light Tank developed during the inter-war period. Building Instructions are available to purchase over on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-119345/Tarix819/pzkpfw-i-ausf-b-light-tank/#details HISTORY The Pz. I was the first widely successful tank to enter service in the German Army. The Ausf. B model, the successor to the Pz.Kpfw. I Ausf. A, featured a number of upgrades including a new water-cooled Maybach six-cylinder engine, which required the hull to be lengthened to accommodate it. The crew count remained two men (Driver and Commander). MODEL FEATURES -A custom brick-build sprocket design inspired by the work of @Milan -Weight: 5.2kg. -Scale: 1:8. -Full drive, each track driven by two PF-XL motors. -Twin PF battery boxes for powerplant, the model is controlled using two SBricks. -Working and historically accurate suspension - the frontmost roadwheels are suspended on pivoting arms which connect to a coil-spring, whilst the remaining road wheels are paired together on four bogies suspended using leaf-springs. -Working headlamp. -Functional track tensioners. -360-degree rotating turret. -Elevation and depression of the main guns inside the turret. -Accurate detailing, including sledgehammer, storage box, exhaust, aerial and vision slits. BUILDING THE MODEL I chose to build the Pz. I because it was a relatively simple, straightforward design; there was no heavy firing mechanism or bridge deployment mechanism, basically just a chassis with a rotating turret and moving guns. The real aim behind it was to test out the new sprocket designs, and to see how they would run on a tracked vehicle weighing above 5kg. In the end I was very pleased with the performance of the sprockets and I will likely be using them on future models. As I will explain, they are an enormous upgrade to the rubber tyre system that I was previously using to engage the tracks. Otherwise, the tank is sturdy and looks good, although the suspension is somewhat fragile. I am very happy with its overall performance and I hope that fans of early German inter-war and WWII tanks will be pleased to see it. SPROCKETS As you may already know, my specialty here is large-scale tanks and tracked vehicles, weighing in the range of 4kg upwards. Building at such a large scale allows me to incorporate a great amount of detail and functionality into my models, however this requires me to use custom Lego tracks built from axles and lift-arms instead of the conventional Lego-produced caterpillar tracks, which are limited by their width and sprocket size. I have been using these types of tracks for about four years now, however since there was no specific sprocket design available for them, and certainly not at the required sizes (10st/12st/14st diameter), I have instead used Lego wheels with rubber tyres as the driving wheels, since, at least for lighter models, the friction between the tyre and the track is enough engage the track and drive the model along. In April 2020, I built my A34 Comet tank model, the weight of which was roughly 5.9kg. It was driven by two PF-XL motors connected to tyres at the rear, but had some trouble steering and reversing as the tyres were slipping on the tracks. The solution to this problem was provide front and rear drive, increasing the number of PF-XL motors to four. I first used this setup in my Vickers Mk. E model in August 2020, and the slipping problem was fixed; it worked very well on that particular model. But since then I have built a variety of other vehicles of different weights and sizes, using the same setup, and a number of problems have come up: 1) Weight Distribution -My most recent model, the AMR 33, was particularly rear-heavy as motors had to be installed at the back (in addition to the front), where the turret was. 2) Historical Accuracy -There was excessive bulk on my Matilda I model caused by the front wheels requiring a drivetrain connected to motors. The front lower glacis on that model is too far forward to make room for the drivetrain. This was not necessary on the real-life vehicle, which simply had idlers. It was a similar case for the rear idlers on my Vickers Light Commercial tanks models. 3) Track Tensioning -Having track tensioners means the motor, direct drive connection and the wheel itself all need to be movable, which adds unnecessary complication. 4) Heavy Vehicles -Even with both wheels driven, heavier vehicles will still suffer slipping between the wheels and the track, especially on rougher terrain. My Bridge Carrier model weighed between 7.7kg and 9.4kg, was powered by six PF-XL motors and suffered from this a lot. Moreover it could not actually drive onto its own bridge because the wheels kept slipping and the tracks would come off. 5) Steering -Tracks of course would not always be locked in properly by the rubber tyres. This wasn’t a problem on most of my models, but I remember my T.13B3 and Vickers M1937 occasionally threw their tracks when making tight corners. The solution to these problems was to develop a sprocket that would engage with the custom track properly. And here they are: https://imgur.com/a/q71kRuh (I will try to make some building instructions for these) I had not yet come up with a design due to the complicated geometry of custom-built wheels, and the difficulty in building with Lego elements accurate to the millimeter, however with some inspiration from Milan’s excellent Brick-built wheels book, I have designed two sizes (12st and 10st diameter) of custom sprocket that work smoothly with the custom track. Everything is built from 100% genuine Lego elements, no illegal connections or 3D printing is required. The first that I built was the 12st diameter sprocket. This uses 1x2 plate hinges arranged in a decagon, which is held taught by rubber connectors fitted in the center. Each tooth is built using two Bionicle pieces. In between each tooth there is a rubber connector which helps keep the track round as it traverses the sprocket. The principles of the 10st diameter sprocket are the same, however the hinges are arranged in a nonagon, and each tooth is made using one Bionicle piece and a 1x2 flat lift-arm. There are only four teeth on this sprocket, meaning there is a gap of two on one side. This has no effect on the sprockets performance so long as a gap is left every link on the track rather than every two links. It is this size of sprocket that my model of the Pz.Kpfw. I Ausf. B uses. These sprockets certainly have great potential and I am confident it is possible to construct them from at least 8st diameter and upwards. With the correct arrangement/modification they should also be able to fit any width of track of at least 5st, and any arrangement of track teeth (Either one row in the center or a row on each side). This will be extremely important for my future models as historically tanks have had sprockets of a great variety of different sizes. IMAGE GALLERY More images can be found over on Imgur, I shall put some up on my Flickr shortly, too. https://imgur.com/gallery/jyhtIhN -
A simple tracked loader model with Control+. Features subtractor drive, arm elevation, bucket tilt, and lighting by Brickstuff. Functions/features: Subtractor drive Arm elevation Bucket tilt Lights (Brickstuff LEDs) Photos: Video:
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Hi, I have designed a series of tracked vehicle using either 4 or 6 L or XL motors with two buwizz. And the problem i keep having is that after about 30 seconds to a minute the power to one side is shut off. If i then leave it to rest for a minute it will go again, but it will cut out sooner after that. The components to not heat up noticeably. I have experimented with different sizes and weights, and the problem is more noticable at higher speeds and weight. but weirdly enough it runs fine before the "limit" kicks in. I have cross connected the motors so it is not one buwizz that is at fault. Is there some sort of power limit i am reaching? Thanks in advance.
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I'm doing something simple this time after building two complex MOCs. Given that I'm busy with college right now, this should be a pretty manageable project for me. It'll be a simple tracked loader model with subtractor drive. I've already got the subtractor mechanism built, and it'll likely be the rear sprockets that'll be driven. The propulsion motor is a C+ XL and the steering motor is a C+ L. The C+ hub will likely sit in the front of the chassis towards the bottom (assuming it's the rear sprockets that'll be driven) and bucket elevation/tipping will be a C+ XL and C+ L, respectively. As for the bodywork, I'm planning on making it bright light orange with the pieces from the 42099 set. If you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
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Czechoslovakia WW2 tank. Power functions: 1x XL motor 2x L motor 3x M motor Fuction and chassis Lego. Desing Cobi small army WW2.
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Hello everybody, My first MOC to be posted on Eurobricks is the CAT D9 bulldozer. My goal with this MOC was to make it look as good as I could while still working as well as I should like. It has these functions, all controlled by power functions: -blade powered by 1 x M-motor -ripper powered by 1 x M-motor -treads powered by 2 x L-motor, 1 on each side for skid-stearing -two pairs of LED lights with hidden switch Pictures of the model: Here is the link for a video that demonstrates all functions. If someone could tell me how to embed it, I would be very grateful, as I could not figure it out -
Hey guys, here's a rather simple project I recently started. I wanted to build something that's highly playable and not too complex, so I decided to do a tracked vehicle of some sort. However, this one will be unique in that steering is not done by tank drive, or by traditional steering. It's by an articulation joint like a front loader. This model will have all-track drive, articulated steering, and a pneumatically tipped bed. The bed will be on the rear module, which will contain no motors. All motorization is done on the front module and the only things passing through the articulation joint/turntable are the drive axle and pneumatic hoses. Propulsion is done by a single L motor above the front differential, steering is done by a M motor that controls 2 linkages going in opposite directions with worm gears, and the pneumatics are controlled by a M motor that simultaneously drives a 6L pump and Sariel's autovalve. The mechanical elements do take up plenty of room in the front module, but once the bodywork is in place most of it should be concealed. My main purpose in building this MOC is to find an opportunity to really use dark azure Technic pieces. My Grapple Truck I6 and my current WIP Red Beryl X were both started with the intent of using dark azure pieces, but both times I was faced with a limited collection of them. I've recently ordered some extra dark azure pieces off Bricklink, and considering a cab on a model this size shouldn't really use that much pieces I think this finally be my first dark azure MOC. If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
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