On 8/16/2023 at 8:19 AM, 1gor said:

That would be very kind 

I remember that you made offroader with multiple steering modes and Claas tires on Defender wheels in black (but without dish) with planetary reduction hubs

Thank you

I actually went with regular Racing Medium rims in the end for that MOC.

New Elementary did some analysis on the new worm gear and it's mating parts, including a way to drive the worm gear with normal gears:

https://www.newelementary.com/2023/08/lego-parts-73763-73764-3863-worm-gear.html

Made a custom wheel hub to use Wheel 20 x 30 Balloon Medium (6582) with the WPL RC tires. You need to open up Technic Steering Wheel Hub with Planetary Gear Reduction (46490) and cut Technic Bush 1/2 Smooth with Axle Hole Semi-Reduced (32123). Works surprisingly well.

Also avaliable in .io format here

4 hours ago, JLiu15 said:

I actually went with regular Racing Medium rims in the end for that MOC.

I'll probably also use regular wheels because Defender wheels are really expensive...but everything when time is right

Don't know where to ask better. I have PS5 controller and Liebherr LR set, have Brick COntroller2 app. How to adjust all this? Any tutorial would be appreciated! 

Another separate question:
I need some help and advice. I need to build two lego train rounds, not ovals, rounds! We can use 16 of this track https://rebrickable.com/parts/53400/vehicle-track-train-plastic-rc-trains-curved/ and will get a round of 68cm diameter, but a need a bit larger. Let's say 80 cm. Any ideas? Should be compatible with axles on these wheels https://rebrickable.com/parts/57999/train-wheel-spoked-with-technic-axle-hole-and-rubber-friction-band/

1 hour ago, Aleh said:

Don't know where to ask better. I have PS5 controller and Liebherr LR set, have Brick COntroller2 app. How to adjust all this? Any tutorial would be appreciated! 

I recommend asking in Brickcontroller2 topic. 

20 minutes ago, Aleh said:

Another separate question:
I need some help and advice. I need to build two lego train rounds, not ovals, rounds! We can use 16 of this track https://rebrickable.com/parts/53400/vehicle-track-train-plastic-rc-trains-curved/ and will get a round of 68cm diameter, but a need a bit larger. Let's say 80 cm. Any ideas? Should be compatible with axles on these wheels https://rebrickable.com/parts/57999/train-wheel-spoked-with-technic-axle-hole-and-rubber-friction-band/

Maybe ask in train subforum? 

38 minutes ago, Zerobricks said:

I recommend asking in Brickcontroller2 topic. 

Maybe ask in train subforum? 

Didn't assume such topic exists.

And I asked in train topic too.

Thanks

6 hours ago, apachaihapachai said:

Made a custom wheel hub to use Wheel 20 x 30 Balloon Medium (6582) with the WPL RC tires. You need to open up Technic Steering Wheel Hub with Planetary Gear Reduction (46490) and cut Technic Bush 1/2 Smooth with Axle Hole Semi-Reduced (32123). Works surprisingly well.

Also avaliable in .io format here

Neat concept! Is the cut half-bush going inside the hub? If so, by using the old, toothed variant of it, you could get the CV joint a little closer to where it needs to be without cutting anything, because on it the axle-hole portion of it doesn't go the full length, so it can overhang the rounded part of the CV joint axle.

FYI, if you buy generic planetary hubs from AliExpress, they come unglued, so they could be used as an easier (and cheaper) basis for this project, since you don't need to cut them open.

8 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

Neat concept!

Thanks!

8 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

using the old, toothed variant of it

Too bad I got 0 of them :D

8 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

FYI, if you buy generic planetary hubs from AliExpress

I actually used exactly these chinese hubs. Lego ones are too expensive to destroy for sure.

14 hours ago, apachaihapachai said:

Made a custom wheel hub to use Wheel 20 x 30 Balloon Medium (6582) with the WPL RC tires. You need to open up Technic Steering Wheel Hub with Planetary Gear Reduction (46490) and cut Technic Bush 1/2 Smooth with Axle Hole Semi-Reduced (32123). Works surprisingly well.

This sounds interesting, but I don't quite understand what is happening here. I understand that the goal is to use the hub with an axle, instead of a 3 pin wheel mount. But do you keep the planetary reduction or do you throw that away? Does the pivot point of the CV joint fall exactly where it is on the original hub? What is the purpose of that cut bush?

Also, in the video in the RB model, you seem to be using it with a 3-pin connected wheel hub, instead of what is shown here..

7 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

I understand that the goal is to use the hub with an axle, instead of a 3 pin wheel mount.

The goal is to create a hub with the axle connection.

7 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

But do you keep the planetary reduction or do you throw that away?

The reduction is gone, yes

7 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Does the pivot point of the CV joint fall exactly where it is on the original hub?

Yes

7 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

What is the purpose of that cut bush?

To better secure the CV joint in the correct place.

7 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Also, in the video in the RB model, you seem to be using it with a 3-pin connected wheel hub, instead of what is shown here..

Relevant video

 

Thanks for the video link.

2 hours ago, apachaihapachai said:

To better secure the CV joint in the correct place.

I think I roughly get it's construction now. So the bush is inside the hub behind the black disk? What is holding the CV joint/axle and the black disk from sliding outwards together with the whole wheel? Is there a disk inside as well, or just outside of the hub's rim?

Furthermore, on your image above, I can see some kind of a spacer on the red 2L axle that comes out of the CV joint's male part. What/why is that? If the CV joint's head is in the same position as in the original planetary hub, than that no spacer would be required there (assuming the rest of the construction is normally positioned parallel with the A-arms).

47 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

Thanks for the video link.

I think I roughly get it's construction now.

48 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

I can see some kind of a spacer on the red 2L axle that comes out of the CV joint's male part. What/why is that? If the CV joint's head is in the same position as in the original planetary hub, than that no spacer would be required there (assuming the rest of the construction is normally positioned parallel with the A-arms).

The drive shaft isn't parallel with the arms in my particullar case. That's why I'm using spacers on the 2L axle. You are right. When the shaft is normally positioned the spacers won't be neccesarry.

44 minutes ago, apachaihapachai said:

The drive shaft isn't parallel with the arms in my particullar case. That's why I'm using spacers on the 2L axle. You are right. When the shaft is normally positioned the spacers won't be neccesarry.

Thanks for the explanation, I get it all now! Nice construction.

One more question, what is the advantage of the axle based solution for you? From the model itself, as originally built with the old wheel hubs, it seems that the same RC tire (is it the same?) can be used with the 43mm Arocs wheels (as your video shows on RB). Furthermore, to work with the new CV joints, this whole custom made hub could just be replaced with the new non-planetary wheel hubs from the Audi, right?

BTW, I like the tires you are using. Do they fit the Arocs wheels well? What is their diameter/width? Do you have a link to them?

Edited August 22, 20231 yr by gyenesvi

30 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

One more question, what is the advantage of the axle based solution for you?

Just to use Wheel 20 x 30 Balloon Medium (6582). Because of the stem inside the deep part you can't efficiently use them with standart 3-pin hubs. Why exactly these old rims? Because of the much better fitment of the RC tires and better proportions for the wheel as a whole.

30 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

to work with the new CV joints, this whole custom made hub could just be replaced with the new non-planetary wheel hubs from the Audi, right?

If you want to use the 43mm Arocs wheels then sure.

30 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

BTW, I like the tires you are using. Do they fit the Arocs wheels well? What is their diameter? Do you have a link to them?

Just google WPL tires. They are very cheap ~68mm chinese tires. You can find them in wide variety of the tire treads. As mentioned above you can fit them on 43mm Arocs wheels but the tire will be slightly deformed.

TBH there are a lot of options if you want to use RC tires. 

Edited August 22, 20231 yr by apachaihapachai

11 minutes ago, apachaihapachai said:

Just to use Wheel 20 x 30 Balloon Medium (6582). Because of the stem inside the deep part you can't efficiently use them with standart 3-pin hubs. Why exactly these old rims? Because of the much better fitment of the RC tires and better proportions for the wheel as a whole.

Thanks for explanation, that makes sense.

11 minutes ago, apachaihapachai said:

Just google WPL tires. They are very cheap ~68mm chinese tires. You can find them in wide variety of the tire treads. As mentioned above you can fit them on 43mm Arocs wheels but the tire will be slightly deformed.

Found some, thanks :)

11 minutes ago, apachaihapachai said:

TBH there are a lot of options if you want to use RC tires. 

I know, I have a bunch already :)

Is there a way to keep the 2x3 Tile with clip in place?

 

I'm using a bar with clip but it looks like it's an illegal connection.

GBC people will be delighted to know that there's a new neon yellow ball available now in the new Friends Sports Center set:

I opened my first 1:5 Technic motorbike today and the tires make me feel like Shangchi lol

7 minutes ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

I opened my first 1:5 Technic motorbike today and the tires make me feel like Shangchi lol

Why, set(s) has only 2 (driving) rings; not 10 

...and only 2 tires...

There are some new Technic parts available as of September on B&P from the LR and Peugeot:

I noticed a little detail about 71708 part - put 15100 (pin with pin hole) into the pin hole on the shorter edge of 71708. Try to turn the pin around. When inserted from one side, it's like snapping in place for every 90 degree rotations inside the pin hole, but only from one side of the 71708, on the other side it's either weaker or non existent. I checked it through few of those 71708 and all have it, but not always on the same side. There's no visible difference of that pin hole from the others. I wonder if someone else can confirm this on his pieces.

58 minutes ago, SaperPL said:

I noticed a little detail about 71708 part - put 15100 (pin with pin hole) into the pin hole on the shorter edge of 71708. Try to turn the pin around. When inserted from one side, it's like snapping in place for every 90 degree rotations inside the pin hole, but only from one side of the 71708, on the other side it's either weaker or non existent. I checked it through few of those 71708 and all have it, but not always on the same side. There's no visible difference of that pin hole from the others. I wonder if someone else can confirm this on his pieces.

I tried with part 15100, which is the old mold and has very high friction. Indeed there seems to be some 'snapping' feeling when rotation it in a pinhole -- not just in part 71708, although it's stronger there (maybe because 71708 is made from different plastic).