1gor Posted July 4, 2019 Posted July 4, 2019 @vectormatic you have chosen the best version of engine for small size project which is possible to be 5 studs long (+ one stud for axle)... For years I have tried to develop independent suspension for John Deere 8 series, but I think so etching like much smaller version of rear 8860 suspension is doable; question is only wether this solution suits you Quote
Vectormatic Posted July 4, 2019 Posted July 4, 2019 @I_Igor 8860 style suspenion doesnt seem doable within 15 studs to me (H-frame with 2 u-joints + axle carries on either side is 13, and axle carriers dont fit inside the wheel, so width ends up at 17), but i dont mind, as that suspension style is poorly suited for a porsche anyway. And i know the engine is probably the best choice for something in this scale, it is still going to be a tight fit, but when i was thinking of a small-scale porsche, the cayman was an obvious choice due to its short engine, and engine location. Maybe something like a mazda mx5 would be doable as well, with an I4 between the front wheels, but i havent done the math on that one. Quote
Jurss Posted July 4, 2019 Posted July 4, 2019 On one moc I just didn't put any link on differential side, just run axle directly in. As it also was sports car with small suspension travel, it worked pretty ok. I think, You need to take some picture and create MOC topic Quote
1gor Posted July 4, 2019 Posted July 4, 2019 2 hours ago, vectormatic said: @I_Igor 8860 style suspenion doesnt seem doable within 15 studs to me (H-frame with 2 u-joints + axle carries on either side is 13, and axle carriers dont fit inside the wheel, so width ends up at 17), but i dont mind, as that suspension style is poorly suited for a porsche anyway. And i know the engine is probably the best choice for something in this scale, it is still going to be a tight fit, but when i was thinking of a small-scale porsche, the cayman was an obvious choice due to its short engine, and engine location. Maybe something like a mazda mx5 would be doable as well, with an I4 between the front wheels, but i havent done the math on that one. Through weekend I hope that I'll have time to try it and upload solution (if I managed to make something meaningful) in axle collection tread Quote
syclone Posted July 4, 2019 Posted July 4, 2019 (edited) @vectormatic not sure what you have against floating diff in comparison to this, but here's that 8860 suspension within 15 studs. Personally I don't like it as the wheels camber while suspension is in action. Shocks not mounted, but it's not like there's room for standard ones (images are click-to-enlarge) Edited July 4, 2019 by syclone Quote
1gor Posted July 4, 2019 Posted July 4, 2019 @syclone i think that for car that @vectormatic us building rear suspension travel is very small, so I can think your suggestion is very good. My idea is a bit different with CV Joint so axle + wheel could not fall out so easily. Quote
Vectormatic Posted July 4, 2019 Posted July 4, 2019 (edited) @syclone that looks decent, althought 8860 uses u-joints to increase the possible angle. I am with you on the dislike of the wheels cambering though. As for not going down the 8860 or floating diff routes, i want to make a sportscar, and imho a rigid connection between the two wheels isnt suited for that concept on a modern sportscar. My GF actually has a car with 8860 style suspension, and that is a 1971 fiat 600, the only thing it has in common with anything sporty is that just like a 911, the engine is at the back :D I know packing as many features into a model is the technic moc way, but i feel like having steering and a fake engine in the right place is a good place to start, adding suspension or a gearbox, while adding authenticity in some areas would compromise others. EDIT: thinking about it, i dont know the suspension travel on a modern porsche, but translated to 1:14 scale it cant be more then a few mm in realistic usage, perhaps using floating diff and torque sprung double wishbone would be more then adequate. Still, id rather keep things simple for now Edited July 4, 2019 by vectormatic Quote
SNIPE Posted July 4, 2019 Posted July 4, 2019 (edited) @rm8 did a video showing that control+ motors work with the powered up battery box and controller He also shows the new planetary hubs working with the thin technic rims from the 42009. Edited July 5, 2019 by SNIPE Quote
Jonfensu Posted July 6, 2019 Posted July 6, 2019 A Harley Davidson Motorcycle on the Creator theme has been leaked and there are two interesting things: Wider motorcycle tyre and wheel New piston/engine parts (Well, I have never seen anything like that before) Quote
therealjustin Posted July 6, 2019 Posted July 6, 2019 (edited) I immediately noticed the wider rear tire as well, and cannot wait to get one for my superbike. It looks to be the same size and tread pattern as 8420 I think so hopefully it fits existing rims. The chosen rims for this set are not that appealing to me and I would have preferred a V-Rod/Night Rod Special set instead but whatever. There's just so much gray plastic to look at whereas the real bike has chrome. Edited July 6, 2019 by therealjustin Quote
Ngoc Nguyen Posted July 6, 2019 Posted July 6, 2019 I think the new piston part is just two Technic string reels. Quote
Vectormatic Posted July 6, 2019 Posted July 6, 2019 yeah, the driveline is probably brick-built out of currently existing parts, creator would be an extremely illogical place to introduce new fake engine parts, especially when existing parts would suffice for a harley engine, so something brick-built makes much more sense. It looks pretty cool as a harley set, but those closed wheels look pretty useless for non-classic-chopper bike purposes, and considering i dont care much about harleys, ill be giving it a pass Quote
JonathanM Posted July 7, 2019 Posted July 7, 2019 3 hours ago, vectormatic said: but those closed wheels look pretty useless for non-classic-chopper bike purposes Yeah - I assume the existing rims will fit as well (e.g. the rear could just be two rims side by side maybe?) I'm guessing there's a brake disc or something on the other side of the front wheel, given the LBG pin there? Quote
therealjustin Posted July 7, 2019 Posted July 7, 2019 Yep, definitely. I'm curious which piece they used for the disc. After thinking it over, this could be a pretty cool set to go with my Technic bikes. It's in the same scale and $90 is not bad at all for such a large motorcycle. Quote
1gor Posted July 12, 2019 Posted July 12, 2019 Did anyone found out dimensions of rims in Harley Davidson Fatboy? There are lots of videos like this but could not find rim dimensions... Quote
agrof Posted July 12, 2019 Posted July 12, 2019 Watching the review of Racing Rick, for me they seem identical in diameter, width, and usage: @kbalage can you confirm? Quote
1gor Posted July 12, 2019 Posted July 12, 2019 Thanks @agrof it looks like it has the same diameter and the front tire us from earlier Technic motorbikes... I think with this connector it would be more stiffer than with pins...perhaps it could be used in future in Technic with eventual new big tire... Quote
Touc4nx Posted August 2, 2019 Posted August 2, 2019 I have a question, does anybody know why these two parts are different ? I wasn't able to find any information about it. And I'm sure it's not a damaged part. The "open" one has 1-01 written on it whereas the "closed" one has 2-01 written on it. The thing I don't understand is that they both come from the same set : 8856 Quote
1gor Posted August 2, 2019 Posted August 2, 2019 @Touc4nx this part comes in 3 sets https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=2738&colorID=11&in=A Perhaps they were mixed up (if you did not purchase sealed box)? Quote
Leewan Posted August 2, 2019 Posted August 2, 2019 It's just a molding issue, like this helmet, or that leg. That sort of thing happened to me once, one of the tread links from a 8259 was "incomplete", as if there weren't enough plastic injected in the mold. I'm sure I still have it somewhere, so I'll make a pic if I find it. Quote
technic_addict Posted August 2, 2019 Posted August 2, 2019 The end could be broken or cut off. the 1-01 and 2-01 is just a mold designation from which cavity it was molded to track down problems if they arise. Most molds make many pieces at once so without the cavity # it would make finding issues with one part very difficult. Quote
Jockos Posted August 2, 2019 Posted August 2, 2019 I don't know if it was mentioned or I just missed, but regarding this C+, Boost, etc. thing, it would have been easier to have a System motor family and a Technic one. And the two names, PUp and C+ and that's all. Instead, we are bamboozled Quote
Touc4nx Posted August 2, 2019 Posted August 2, 2019 Okay thanks for the answers. To be honest as you have said that it's probably a mold issue, it seems totally logic to me. I didn't thought about it Quote
msk6003 Posted August 7, 2019 Posted August 7, 2019 How to connect new hub with normal axle Just use new type 8tooth gear. You must align the swivel of the CV joint to the groove of the gear. Quote
SNIPE Posted August 8, 2019 Posted August 8, 2019 (edited) 23 hours ago, msk6003 said: This just gave me an idea, if you change the connectors a bit, can you then mesh a 24 tooth gear to the 8 tooth gear? Youl will lose a little torque and gain some speed but at least it will now work like a portal hub :D Edited August 8, 2019 by SNIPE Quote
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