General Part Discussion

[SNIPE]

On 7/8/2020 at 1:31 PM, Erik Leppen said:

That same 135-degree elbow part is in the Mickey/Minnie Mouse set in black, 14x if I remember correctly.

Seems a useful generic part. Not sure yet what for, but I'm sure people will find all kinds of uses.

If anyone knows the radius (inner/axis/outer), that would be useful information.

I actually needed something like this for wider piping, and both curved and straight when I was making the entire GTA V humane labs in LDCAD including the hidden interiors and the tunnel etc. because the usual technic curved pipes and pin jointers are too narrow for such a scale of building..

also one thing I forgot to add on:
49283 spike prime wire clip in Dark Turquoise (x? in 51515)
18945 Panel Plate 5 x 11 x 1 Tapered in Dark Bluish Gray (x2 in 42113)
18945 Panel Plate 5 x 11 x 1 Tapered in Orange (x2 in 42113)
18944 Panel Curved 3 x 13 in Dark Bluish Gray (x1 in 42113)
65422 Rotor Blade 3 x 19 with 3 Holes in Black (x6 in 42113)

Edited July 11, 2020 by SNIPE

[arieben]

When and why did LEGO change the teeth on 24 tooth gears..!? 

There's a MOC I'm working on at the moment that actually works far more smoothly with the older gears. Interestingly, bricklink doesn't have a separate entry. 

Unrelated, but what are some common 60 or 120 degree parts? I have a lot of the studded rotor pieces and I might try to get my hands on some of the studless technic ones. Are there any connectors I could use? I'm trying to make something that branches out in three directions but has space in the center (instead of, for example., the axle hole the rotor pieces have).

[LvdH]

They already changed them since the Bugatti Chiron if I remember correctly.

[TechnicRCRacer]

1 hour ago, arieben said:

When and why did LEGO change the teeth on 24 tooth gears..!? 

First saw the new mold with different plastic in 2015, but it seems the new teeth style appeared earlier. I think they changed the teeth to reduce backlash.

Edited July 12, 2020 by TechnicRCRacer

[Thierry-GearsManiac]

1 hour ago, arieben said:

 

Unrelated, but what are some common 60 or 120 degree parts? I have a lot of the studded rotor pieces and I might try to get my hands on some of the studless technic ones. Are there any connectors I could use? I'm trying to make something that branches out in three directions but has space in the center (instead of, for example., the axle hole the rotor pieces have).

 

For 3*120°, the only two ones I know are :

https://rebrickable.com/parts/10288/technic-axle-and-pin-connector-triple-120-offset/ : 3 female axle ends and a central round hole

https://rebrickable.com/parts/57585/technic-axle-connector-hub-with-3-axles-at-120/ : 3 male axle ends and a central axle hole (can also make 60° and even 30° angles when stacked on one same axle and rotated by 90° steps)

And this good old pulley can also help too : https://rebrickable.com/parts/4185/technic-wedge-belt-wheel-aka-pulley/ (as well as any 6-hole hub).

 

[arieben]

30 minutes ago, Thierry-GearsManiac said:

For 3*120°, the only two ones I know are :

https://rebrickable.com/parts/10288/technic-axle-and-pin-connector-triple-120-offset/ : 3 female axle ends and a central round hole

https://rebrickable.com/parts/57585/technic-axle-connector-hub-with-3-axles-at-120/ : 3 male axle ends and a central axle hole (can also make 60° and even 30° angles when stacked on one same axle and rotated by 90° steps)

And this good old pulley can also help too : https://rebrickable.com/parts/4185/technic-wedge-belt-wheel-aka-pulley/ (as well as any 6-hole hub).

 

Thank you! That connector part I forgot about, I'll probably get one of those. Much appreciated.

37 minutes ago, TechnicRCRacer said:

First saw the new mold with different plastic in 2015, but it seems the new teeth style appeared earlier. I think they changed the teeth to reduce backlash.

Re: backlash, that makes sense. the teeth on the original mold do seem a bit long and slender. 

[thethreeholyspills]

New mould update. The friction pin has reverted back to its old self. Hopefully this time we won't need pliers to yank them out.

[astyanax]

On 7/12/2020 at 10:20 PM, arieben said:

Unrelated, but what are some common 60 or 120 degree parts? I have a lot of the studded rotor pieces and I might try to get my hands on some of the studless technic ones. Are there any connectors I could use? I'm trying to make something that branches out in three directions but has space in the center (instead of, for example., the axle hole the rotor pieces have).

Besides the parts mentioned by @Thierry-GearsManiac, there is also part 44374:

Caveats: it's quite rare so may be hard to find at decent price. Also, being a thin liftarm, it shouldn't be used in stressing constructions.

Better is to double them. Then you can easily make omniwheels, for example:

[1gor]

On 7/12/2020 at 10:20 PM, arieben said:

When and why did LEGO change the teeth on 24 tooth gears..!? 

There's a MOC I'm working on at the moment that actually works far more smoothly with the older gears. Interestingly, bricklink doesn't have a separate entry. 

And I had to make complete redesign because I have older ones and they are rubbing on frame. Since white 24 tooth gear with clutch does not rub on frame (but it is not useful for drive) I suppose this could be a big help for next MOC (if they are same diameter)...

[Void_S]

1 hour ago, I_Igor said:

And I had to make complete redesign because I have older ones and they are rubbing on frame. Since white 24 tooth gear with clutch does not rub on frame (but it is not useful for drive) I suppose this could be a big help for next MOC (if they are same diameter)...

Do you mean their "3L+" studs diameter, when they weren't able to fit the 3L-wide places? It sound very interesting if the new one now have 3L-accurate diameter and can be used where the old one couldn't. However it is some kind of cheating for me 

[1gor]

1 minute ago, Void_S said:

Do you mean their "3L+" studs diameter, when they weren't able to fit the 3L-wide places? It sound very interesting if the new one now have 3L-accurate diameter and can be used where the old one couldn't. However it is some kind of cheating for me 

Yes I was writing about it, but I do not think it will be less than 3 studs, it is more when using it on 11 x 5 H frame with Unimog ball joint that is 2 studs over frame... I should have made images and post it...I think 3L+ diameter as you name it should be (IMHO) a little but (some fraction of millimetre) smaller...

[arieben]

5 hours ago, astyanax said:

Besides the parts mentioned by @Thierry-GearsManiac, there is also part 44374:

<snip>

Caveats: it's quite rare so may be hard to find at decent price. Also, being a thin liftarm, it shouldn't be used in stressing constructions.

Better is to double them. Then you can easily make omniwheels, for example:

<snip>

Thanks for reminding me about that part. It will be helpful should I decide to bite the bullet on price.

Luckily,there is another version of omniwheels I have made using the 120 degree axle connectors. Not nearly as strong, but enough for my purposes. And much more affordable. 

5 hours ago, I_Igor said:

And I had to make complete redesign because I have older ones and they are rubbing on frame. Since white 24 tooth gear with clutch does not rub on frame (but it is not useful for drive) I suppose this could be a big help for next MOC (if they are same diameter)...

Now that you mention it, I did notice a certain section of 42082 that I believe wouldn't be possible with the old gears.. I see that both have their own purpose. It seems that overall, the new gears are better for most applications.

3 hours ago, Void_S said:

Do you mean their "3L+" studs diameter, when they weren't able to fit the 3L-wide places? It sound very interesting if the new one now have 3L-accurate diameter and can be used where the old one couldn't. However it is some kind of cheating for me 

I'm not sure how it would be considered cheating! I do think BL should have a separate entry, though. The difference is significant. 

[Void_S]

20 hours ago, arieben said:

I'm not sure how it would be considered cheating! I do think BL should have a separate entry, though. The difference is significant. 

I meant that if the rumors about 3L diameter are true, TLG just "cuts the corners" by cutting off the gear teeth...  For me, it would look like a lazy solving of the oldest problem (why they hadn't done it initially, when designed this gear?).

[Zerobricks]

2 minutes ago, Void_S said:

I meant that if the rumors about 3L diameter are true, TLG just "cuts the corners" by cutting off the gear teeth...  For me, it would look like a lazy solving of the oldest problem (why they hadn't done it initially, when designed this gear?).

Because the gear was designed long before studless system was a thing.

[Jundis]

23 hours ago, arieben said:

It sound very interesting if the new one now have 3L-accurate diameter and can be used where the old one couldn't. However it is some kind of cheating for me

If they would cut the teeth on the 24 gear to match 3L diameter, they wouldn't mesh at all. The pitch diameter of the 8 gear is 1L, 16 gear 2L, 18 gear 3L. You need a little bit longer teeth so they can mesh with others.

In my opinion, it's one of the reasons Lego introduced 20 teeth and 12 teeth gears,

[Void_S]

24 minutes ago, Jundis said:

If they would cut the teeth on the 24 gear to match 3L diameter, they wouldn't mesh at all. The pitch diameter of the 8 gear is 1L, 16 gear 2L, 18 gear 3L. You need a little bit longer teeth so they can mesh with others.

Yeah, right... I just supposed that the 8T gear remained "spiky" enough to mesh with "shortened" 24T gear. So, looks just as a better design with less friction/backslash/ABS use and nothing more.

[pleegwat]

I could see them trimming the 24t gear such that it needs less room diagonally.

[astyanax]

So has this ever been legal? It seems to fit... although with the slightest misalignment, the teeth can grind against the frame.

 

[1gor]

1 hour ago, astyanax said:

So has this ever been legal? It seems to fit... although with the slightest misalignment, the teeth can grind against the frame.

 

Turn frame upside down (there are "sockets" on bottom in which can 24 tooth gear fit without rubbing)

[Jeroen Ottens]

This is a perfect example why the redesigned gear is an improvement. A couple of years ago this indeed would have been not possible, but now it is.

[TechnicRCRacer]

51 minutes ago, I_Igor said:

there are "sockets" on bottom in which can 24 tooth gear fit without rubbing)

Woah, is that why there are notches there?

[Rudivdk]

39 minutes ago, TechnicRCRacer said:

Woah, is that why there are notches there?

Yup, or at least it is a great benefit of having them. It will work for the 8 tooth gear (with a 1 stud offset to center), and a 16 tooth (with 0.5 stud offset to center) as well.

It is probably also saving quite a lot of material considering the total amount of parts produced...

[ord]

I imagine the notches are there to allow the inner core to slide out during molding.

[TechnicRCRacer]

34 minutes ago, ord said:

I imagine the notches are there to allow the inner core to slide out during molding.

Really smart, seems like the truth!

[jovel]

In the Bugatti they put a 7 long beam next to a 24z.

It's the same distance as with the frame ( without the "U" being used ).

I wouldn't recommend it though.

Edited July 16, 2020 by jovel