Posted October 27, 201410 yr !!PROJECT IS ABANDONED AND DISCONTINUED!! Hi everyone! I'd like to present to you my WIP Land Rover Defender 90. First, some explanations. The goal was to make pretty accurate car with two live axles, 2 gears (slow and fast) and 2 differential locks (middle and rear). I started from scrolling throug Unimog instruction to get some inspiration. The first try at building chassis was successful, but the steering tended to break and gears slipped (PF Servo in the middle of chassis, PF XL on front). Both differential locks, based on Sariels minimalistic differential lock, worked correctly (sorry, no photos). So I rebuilded everything with Servo on front axle on two PF L in the middle. Still I wasn't satisfied with front and gears slipped . Then came the third version with PF XL on the back, good gears design and front independent suspension (differential locks were ditched in the process). But... The basic TLG double whishbone suspension (3 and 5 studs high) tend to be wobbly if assembled poorly (read: assembled by me ), especially with big wheels. I got pissed of and in result dug the internet in search for something good. Finally I ended up with nicjasnos' McPherson suspension. It works perfectly btw . To summarize this a bit long introduction, Land Rover now has front independend McPherson suspension, live axle on back, 2 gears and 4WD with PF XL motor, no differential locks. Without the locks it's pretty unusable in terrain, but runs smoothly on flat. And now the meat part, photos! The plan is to make the bodywork detachable in case I want to improve both cassis and body separately. Also it'd be great to make front live axle with portal axle and correct kingpin inclination and positive caster angle, and both differential locks switched with PF M motors. Please write any suggestions and comments! Edited November 8, 201410 yr by Ciapasty
October 27, 201410 yr So far so good My suggestions: Use 5,5L axles in the front instead of 4L ones. Do something to prevent the front springs from sliding out and therebye causing suspension failure.
October 27, 201410 yr No land rover defender have ha independent suspension before though right? Apart from that it looks great, obviously the camel edition. Edited October 27, 201410 yr by Nalyd997
October 27, 201410 yr Author Zblj, what do you mean by "front springs sliding out"? Yeah, 5,5L will work great, thanks. Nalyd997, the plan is to "swap" (easily said than done ) the McPherson with new live axle. There is no other color option apart from "Camel" , and I even hope I have enough bricks.
October 27, 201410 yr Hi, Your a building machine. It looks good you have the chassis mostly done. I look forward to this being completed.
October 27, 201410 yr Zblj, what do you mean by "front springs sliding out"? Yeah, 5,5L will work great, thanks. Simple. The 9L springs can slip out where the ball joint is attached at the top.
October 27, 201410 yr Author They can slip, but only if the wheels are pullled downwards by force (not big though), which is not a natural car handling . There is very little risk of slip, when they hang freely.
October 27, 201410 yr Nalyd997, the plan is to "swap" (easily said than done ) the McPherson with new live axle. No land rover defender have ha independent suspension before though right? Apart from that it looks great, obviously the camel edition. I used to own a Land Rover Defender 110 -06 so if anyone wants to I can fill in with some details, or I write some bullets right away, anyway 5+R gearbox (6+R on newer models) Low+High separate gearbox with lockable center diff available on Low only. automatically diff lock front + rear live axles front + rear, "standard" suspension, no leaf springs (it was back in the days of course) constant 4WD, never 2WD 5 cylinder common rail diesel engine (4 cl on newer models)
October 27, 201410 yr Author Leif, thanks, that is very helful! As soon as I finish basic bodywork I'll try to modify the chassis to resamble the real one as much as possible.
October 27, 201410 yr Leif, thanks, that is very helful! As soon as I finish basic bodywork I'll try to modify the chassis to resamble the real one as much as possible. you are most welcome and good luck with your project!
October 28, 201410 yr Author A little update! Chairs didn't fit inside I decided on going with black fenders, like in real "camel". Also modified body to have this specific narrowing just below window line. The hood will be one stud backwards. I'm garthering materials to make a new chassis. Do you recommend doing the George Staples' 4+R gearbox ( http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=70118 ) with the transfer case 1 from here: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/radbot/idea/simple_gearboxes.jpg ?
October 28, 201410 yr Author These panels with stickers are ruining everything. I'll try to swap them with normal beams.
October 28, 201410 yr If you want to go for beams rather than a studded hood, check out how I did mine here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=101801#entry2041537
October 28, 201410 yr Author That's a neat idea, but unfortunately I do not have these bricks in yellow
October 31, 201410 yr Author Another update! The body is basicly done. It's not attached to the chassis in this pictures. Also... the chassis got dismantled, because it was rubbish, and i'm building it from scratch. This time with 4+R gearbox, hi-low range selector, center diff lock and both live axles. The problem is that the car is pretty short, and is difficult to fit everything inside. I'll try to do my best, but it may take some time . It might also end in abandoning some features. We'll see.
November 1, 201410 yr Author Thanks! Yeah, it looks like Sheepos' Land Rover, because it's the same Land Rover in the same scale, and I'm getting inspiration from his MOC . Also, new chassis! It features 4+R gearbox, hi-low range selector and middle diff lock. Sadly, on high range the cogs tend to slip on middle differential, so it's not usable when driving. On low range it's pretty good at driving on flat, but as soon as it hits obstacle everything stops worrking and cracks . I suspect that it's not stiff enough. I'm still learning how to make functional gearbox with enough stiffness to handle high torques. I had to increase the length by 3 studs, so the body doesn't fit. I'll be fitting it on the chassis tomorrow.
November 1, 201410 yr Chassis looks really solid, sorry to hear about the gearbox issue Keep at it, hopefully you'll find something that works!
November 1, 201410 yr Can you show which gear is slipping? There's always something that can be done.
November 1, 201410 yr Author These two. Those black 5s beams tend to bend upwards. Something also slips in gearbox, can't say exactly what..
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