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Posted

This looks awesome!

Thanks!

What are the parts used for the neck ?

Looks really neat overall.

48092.jpg

Part 48092 Brick, Round Corner 4 x 4 Macaroni Wide with 3 Studs

Is it finished?

Not yet. Firstly I must finish interior, and secondly neck and legs have some weak points and I have to change that.

Posted

Hi again.

You told me time ago that adding double hinges in the joints could be difficult. Particularly in the "hips-shoulders" because they would be very thick. Your AT-AT is bigger than mine, heavier but the legs are only 2-stud thick. You can build poseable legs, but only if the legs are very strong, and you will achieve that by making the legs thicker; then you will be able to hold double hinges per joint. See if that works that my AT AT can stand over three legs (only if I remove a rear leg).

Concerning the neck, you shouldn´t be worried. Your AT AT head is big but doesn´t look enormously heavy, so with a few technic parts you can make a very good assembly. There is another advantage in your AT AT. The technic assembly that will keep the neck connected to the body can be held both by the studs on the main deck and the ceiling of the upper deck, the only drawback is that the hatch (that covers such an assembly) should be a pair of studs in the main deck. That should work. I will try to get some pics and send them to you.

Best regards.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Indeed that would have been nice. In episode V, I would assume (since I do not follow any comics or novels) Darth Vader was transported in AT-AT to infiltrate echo base. Then in episode VI, there is when Luke was transported in AT-AT to Darth Vader after he surrendered, on Endor. I guess the difficulty with such a scene, is simulating the motion while riding in such an awesome lumbering vehicle.

But as anyways, keep up the great work!

Posted (edited)

Looks like it is coming along really well!

As for interior, I used this website for interior details for mine:

http://www.scifi3d.c...tCatID=8&key=85

As they base theirs on the incredible cross sections, which is good enough for me, and they use their creative independance to do what can't be seen in the incredible cross sections. This website also has an awful lot of up close shots of every aspect of it, highlighting those details that trying to see on the AT-AT studio model might be difficult to see on.

I'm guessing just a few pipes/bars for the interior roof and that'll be the roof done?

How much more to go now? You must be close!

Edited by Fuppylodders
Posted (edited)

Hello Sam!

I saw that website, idea of chairs is from that pictures :wink:

Yes indeed only couple of pipes\bars and roof will be finished.

That would be all!

I must do some improvements in neck, hips and legs.

Edited by La Chupacabra
Posted (edited)

Behold the Beast!:

21525479711_7b12a0e38c_c.jpg

21490576466_46c4eb2cb7_c.jpg

Cross - section:

21328746870_c00c497c47_c.jpg

21525475051_36b256f226_c.jpg

Body is soo heavy! Head too! I don't know if it stand on its own legs.

Today I was able to strengthen back wall of the head because bending force tore back wall apart. And next thing I did was i add some pin to hips to strengthen them.

The whole weight rests on hips. If you look at the pictures there is no gap between body and hips but it should be. Next thing I will do is to add some additional connections points between body and hips to maintain small gap.

Edited by La Chupacabra
Posted

Wow! Impressive!

The assembly of the neck in the body should withstand the weight of the head, so that is not a problem. The assembly of the neck in the head should withstand the weight, too.

Concerning the global weight...if you want poseable legs, double hings are a must in the joints, if not, such joints won´t be strong enough. Believe me, if the legs are 3-stud wide, you can put two hinges in the "knees", and, of course you can add two hinges in the "hips" (add them, if not, the vehicle will be incredibly fragile and prone to catastrophic falls - I suffered that).

An AT AT of your side -larger and much heavier than mine- should have legs in proportion, and 3-stud wide legs (with additional plating to make them look stronger and detailed) WILL fit and will be in proportion with the rest of the AT AT. I read some feedback on my smaller AT AT saying that the legs were skinny (and like you, I calculated proportions from any available source).

The only thing I fear is the momentum created by the heavy head, but it will be probably be compensated by the overall weight of the rest of the vehicle. Heavy legs are also important because the center of gravity will be as low as possible if the legs are heavy.

Go on!

Best regards.

Posted

Impressive nonetheless the structural improvements required for the legs and head—from the cross - section side, I can see gravity taking its toll on the head and the back end of the neck.

Are you deliberately exposing the right side of the walker for visual purposes (like FuppyLodders), or you haven't acquired enough parts to cover it up yet?

I say, the walker is already a nice display model without the rest of the legs—like a nice LEGO AT-AT bust especially with the cut-away. That could be an option if you find no solution to get it to stand—kinda like the idea Fuppylodders had to display his walker crashed in snow after it literally collapsed to the ground.

Posted (edited)

If you happen to have weight problems btw, a trick is to substitute 1x1 or 2x2 plates for round ones, and 1x1 bricks by cones, which weight less. For hidden areas, it can't hurt. I don't see much hidden room in the head, though.

(a cone is only 55% of the weight of a brick, always good to know)

Edited by anothergol
Posted

@sigpro

It is to many to do to change hips and legs to be 2 and 3 stud wide. I'd have to buy lots of brick and for now i think I have cross barrier of 1000 Euros and 6000 bricks. :blush: Body holds the head. I think it weight is about 5 kilos (body only) :grin:

@LiLimeFromDaFuture

Yes, indeed you can see small gaps in back wall :blush: And yes I would like to expose same way that Sam did. Reason is simple - to reduce amount of bricks and weight :tongue:

@anothergol

Good to know :wink:

Posted

If you happen to have weight problems btw, a trick is to substitute 1x1 or 2x2 plates for round ones, and 1x1 bricks by cones, which weight less. For hidden areas, it can't hurt. I don't see much hidden room in the head, though.

(a cone is only 55% of the weight of a brick, always good to know)

He could also substitute some of the bricks on the body with panels—I did likewise with the AT-AT I am building and not only does it save on weight and parts but it also diminishes the brick wall nature due to an excess of bricks.

Though, on the points you made, I always thought they were lighter because of their shape, but as for clutch strength, I suppose it is not as strong as their counterparts—what do think?

Oh and by the way, how did you find out about these things?

Posted (edited)

Though, on the points you made, I always thought they were lighter because of their shape, but as for clutch strength, I suppose it is not as strong as their counterparts—what do think?

I would suspect they're not as strong indeed, I've only used them where I already had reinforcement. But clutch power is hard to evaluate.

Oh and by the way, how did you find out about these things?

BrickLink & Bricker have info on each part's weight.

I was also wondering why Lego uses 1x1 round plates a lot, instead of 1x1 plates, although if not for inventory reasons, it's probably to save plastic.

Edited by anothergol
Posted

I would suspect they're not as strong indeed, I've only used them where I already had reinforcement. But clutch power is hard to evaluate.

Based on experience with certain elements, I say the clutch power attributed to the holes within various technic elements are quite intractable. Then there is that of plates, which are a nuisance to pry apart—especially when avoiding to scratch the surface with finger nails, tools, or even teeth :sick:. Then the list of parts go on…

Though thinking of plates, I have used some with moderately weak clutch power—I don't know story about that.

BrickLink & Bricker have info on each part's weight.

Ah yes, I have glanced it from time to times when I am interested in finding out the history of various bricks. Though I hardly pay attention those details, it can be a useful bit of information for builds such as this.

I was also wondering why Lego uses 1x1 round plates a lot, instead of 1x1 plates, although if not for inventory reasons, it's probably to save plastic.

Beyond the fact that it is possibly cheaper to manufacture, I suppose their frequent uses in the design are of artistic purposes or for variety in part usage.

Posted (edited)

Have you seen this video:

https://m.youtube.co...h?v=A2BArp3rjR8

This is studio model of AT-AT used in film.

Now I have to change some exterior details :wink:

Video I have not seen before, but thankyou for sharing. The walker, I have seen it here, and always wanted one—in spite of that, this photo album might come in handy for what you plan to do.

That replica is actually based off studio model here.

And since we are over there, have you seen this fan made AT-AT model here?—that thing is like 1 METER/100CM TALL!

I currently reference these albums for designing my AT-AT, which will also feature a pale blue panel on the left side of the body—just like on all three of those models.

Edited by LiLmeFromDaFuture
Posted

@LiLimeFromDaFuture

Thanks for links! Your material will be useful :wink:

Only some minor changes.

For example:

1. Change from Slope 18 2 x 1 x 2/3 with 4 Slots to Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3 and from 1x2 grille to 1x1 tile.

2. Remove DBG 1x1 tiles from hatches

@ArmstrongYong

I don't know.

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