Hello All.

I know ME Rails have almost got there track up and running but I want to go past just straights and bends.

This is the very start or Alpha phase of this project, but I will update as I can but I suspect there will be looks of kinks on the way to iron out.

First up, I got the main idea from a fellow LUG club member who has his own very long curve on his layout.

Then I found this online where he may of got the idea from http://users.erols.com/kennrice/flextrack.htm

So the base idea is not my own, but like I said I am going to take this to the next step, and that is Turnouts.

Any one knows with long custom trains and tight bends its a pain, goal one was to remove any tight bends and goal two and create long turn outs.

First up.

I am still waiting/working on finding the correct rail I think I have the correct one but still waiting on the order.

But i did get my Bricklink order though so I could start on the track bed.

Below is the size of a single straight section I will be using.

Two sections.

Edited December 6, 201410 yr by Lazarus

There is a typo in the link:

Then I found this online where he may of got the idea from http://users.erols.c.../flextrack.htm.

The period should't be there...

The idea is great. I'm looking forward to seeing your finished project. It will give another choice to the standard 40 stud diametre bends.

Ok i checked the link and it looks like its euribricks that changes the link?

Ok i checked the link and it looks like its euribricks that changes the link?

No, it was you who ended the sentence right after the link. With a period, as Frank already pointed out.

Here's a working link:

http://users.erols.c...e/flextrack.htm

Chill buddy

Got a little bit of work done last night.

The rails came and code 200 fits nicely into what i want.

I have completed my test straight and a test bogie works perfect on it.

Now I have the straight down I started to move onto the bend. So the radius of the bend is based on a 0 gauge bend so i am using it to create my first jig.

How does the O gauge work out? was the rail size good enough?

Code 200 Gauge 1 was fine for the job. Huge height difference to the O Gauge code 143 rail its like 50% higher what is crazy.

Edited December 9, 201410 yr by Lazarus

A thought has just occured - if you are using PF and technic Axles, you could increase the distance between the wheels so that the train runs on unmodified gauge 1 track, I think a technic half bush behind each wheel would probably do it. You would of course have to replace all the standard wheelholders with technic axles, but I bet it would suit eight wide and up very well...

i am a 9v man, this is why the effort is going into metal rail

Are you using Nickel silver or Aluminum?

Nickel silver

First bend done.

Next one should be a bit cleaner as I now have this one to use as a jig for the sleepers.

I found getting the shape of the rail was the easy part but getting the sleepers even and correct is the hard part.

Edited December 9, 201410 yr by Lazarus

No update on this yet, Tried to made a 2nd bend with some time I had the other day. This time I tried without bending the and letting the sleepers keep the shape just like flex track.

But what i found was the gauge of the does not flex that easy so when i removed it from my jig is wanted to spring back straight. I was unable to pull it apart so I ended up wasting about $10 of parts and the last bit of rail I had.

So I am now waiting for some money to buy some more rail and joiners, what is hard at present due to xmas costs.

At least i found out i need to bend it by hand before I make the rail, I was just trying to get the bend as smooth as possible.

I might need to buy a rail bender but they are not cheap.

I am also looking at switching upto the code 250 rail the G-45 peco track for the higher rail height again and they have some kool extra bits that will help me when I get to making my switches.

I have not planned on the switch length yet but i will be looking at least 500mm long for a normal LH/RH

The switch I am constructing at the moment using code 250 is 5 Track pieces long - so 25" I hope to have some high speed 9v switches for my long stock. I also got a rail bender from Switch Crafters, OR Wow it makes things easier, also the Aluminium is alot easier to bend..

http://www.switchcrafters.com/ez-catalog?account=X381875;search=RB-215%2F250;limit=product;path=16

Ya I was looking at a bender just yesterday I just dont know if its worth the $85 for the amount i need to do haha, issue with Aluminium is it oxidises and needs cleaning more. Will for sure bend easyer and is half the price of silver but I need to know if I will need to the long term storage cons to Aluminum as my layout is only used once a year at shows.

Would love to see ya WIP for the switches, I am going to make all mine high speed switches so i dont really care if they end up being 1000mm long haha.

I want to get a large amount of bends in production first before i move onto switches, streight track is easy and quick to do. Been thinking of making my bend sections i a complete length of rail so 910mm long but for this I will need a rail bender.

I still dont have a track plan down for the new layout this track is for but I am keen to have it about 12m long maybe a bit more and likly it will be a normal ovel nice and simple with display on one side and a fiddle yard on the other. Goal is to run long full rake lego trains in British rail, so Trains running between 10-13 coaches what are 60 studs long.

Edited January 10, 201510 yr by Lazarus