Power Functions vs. 9 volt

[Legoboy22]

I would like to know what everyone thinks about power functions and 9 volt systems. What is better PF or 9V. Or are they the same. Thx

[1974]

[cgarison]

to

[detjensrobert]

PF is good for modelling seam engines because you can power it realistically (through the drivers) and can pull a lot more. The batteries and motors take up a lot of interior room, though.

9v is good because you do not have to worry about batteries and can make detailed interiors. Due to its discontinuation in 2008-9 (correct me if I'm wrong), it has gotten more and more expensive to buy parts for.

[bonox]

Legoboy22 = 9v System ??

Edited December 7, 2014 by bonox

[dr_spock]

This topic comes up from time to time. Which is better depends on your needs and goals.

Here are some recent discussions on 9v vs PF.

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=101258

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=91909

[Commander Wolf]

9v is better, duh

[1974]

Actually 12V is the best, it's like 3 volts better

[PeteM]

^ Was just about to post the same thing!

[nesquik]

9v

+ Requires no interior space/building as all the train needs is the motor, which is built into the bogey like PF.

+ Simpler operation; no batteries or Infrared signal to worry about.

+ More powerful (from my own experience).

- Now discontinued, so costs are only increasing.

- Rail tracks have metal contacts, so aren't future proofed or compatible with current plastic tracks.

PF

+ Very affordable

+ More possibilities for controlling different trains with a single remote.

+ Track can be replicated with the 3D printers and companies making their own versions.

- Batteries...

- Components take up more interior space, including battery box and infrared receiver.

- Plastic track can be noisier.

[AgentRick]

PF is the better option if you're just starting out, honestly. You can probably grab 2-3x as much track/supplies in plastic rail/PF motors+sensors than when buying 9V supplies.

9V gives that Model Railroading feeling a bit better though.

[Lazarus]

9v all the way, and if you run some power pickups you can run PF of it all with no battery back.

[Legoboy22]

For those who are wondering I am PF with ordinary battery boxes and rechargeable batteries in them,no 9 volt. I can not afford enough 9 volt track for a good size layout. It is a shame. I wish that I was 9 volt. Although I am curious about the price of the 9 volt motors. Could someone tell me?

[Legoboy22]

Thx

Edited December 9, 2014 by Legoboy22

[Lazarus]

about 30-40US for a used/probably will have issues motor. And upto maybe $100+ for a new one.

[cgarison]

If you are taking a forward looking point of view, Power Functions would be the way to build your Lego rolling stock due to the fact that it can be run on any type of modern Lego track with relatively few issues.

[fred67]

If you are taking a forward looking point of view, Power Functions would be the way to build your Lego rolling stock due to the fact that it can be run on any type of modern Lego track with relatively few issues.

If you're talking about rolling stock, the method of powering (PF or 9V) is completely irrelevant.

Having gotten started in 9V, I'm loathe to give it up - I do not do complicated layouts, I do not do club displays with many trains running on the same tracks - I'm like probably the vast majority of actual train users who have a simple layout (when I have one at all which, at this point, is just for Christmas).

I like 9V because:

1. My older trains were made for 9V, and I have a handful of 9V motors, and they are far easier to work into a train design and don't require hiding a battery box.

2. I can run it on my Christmas display day and night (if I wanted to) without running out of power.

3. I came to LEGO from an N-Scale train hobby which I abandoned for 9V... and which was subsequently dropped. For me it's about the layout and watching the trains run.

PF is good for modelling seam engines because you can power it realistically (through the drivers) and can pull a lot more. The batteries and motors take up a lot of interior room, though.

Yeah, but it's not really all that realistic... the driving rods don't propel the drive wheels - that would be realistic. The only thing that makes it more realistic is that what are supposed to be the drive wheels propel the train, but no casual observer would ever look at a steam engine being driven by a 9V motor in the tender (for example) and complain it wasn't being driven by the drive wheels.... they are all turning, you'd never know.

Now, all of that said, if you don't already have an investment into 9V, it's really a lesson in futility and wasting a LOT of extra money to use 9V. My only saving grace is, having participated in the ME kickstarter, that I'll get more metal rails. I've been using their non-kickstarter metal rails they had out a few years ago, and while I appreciate having them (I couldn't have done my expanded Christmas layout this year without them), they do have some problems that I could not solve with the metal tape they provided (particularly because I need to take it all apart after Christmas).

If I was going to start now, it would have to be PF all the way, but honestly - the trains are what brought me back to LEGO as an adult, and if I'd only begun to see them now, I probably would have stuck with my N-Scale hobby.

Edited December 9, 2014 by fred67

[Legoboy22]

I do not go to display my trains in a club although I have a simple fairly large layout stretching across a room in my house. That is for all who are wondering.

[fred67]

Well, then you may have another issue with 9V - power attenuation on long stretches of track. By the time you get to the farthest points away from your speed regulator, you may have an issue getting enough current to the 9V motor. There are ways around this (multiple runs of the power connectors from the speed regulator to the rails), but it is another issue to consider if you have a large layout.

So, really, to answer your question, they are NOT the same, but which system is better depends on what you want to do.

[Legoboy22]

Well, then you may have another issue with 9V - power attenuation on long stretches of track. By the time you get to the farthest points away from your speed regulator, you may have an issue getting enough current to the 9V motor. There are ways around this (multiple runs of the power connectors from the speed regulator to the rails), but it is another issue to consider if you have a large layout.

So, really, to answer your question, they are NOT the same, but which system is better depends on what you want to do.

OK thank you for your feedback.

[SavaTheAggie]

I maybe 100 feet or more of 9v track, some 15-20 motors, and four regulators.

I'm voluntarily migrating to PF and completely abandoning 9v. I find it that much better.

Otherwise, dead horse.

--Tony

[cgarison]

I'm voluntarily migrating to PF and completely abandoning 9v. I find it that much better.

That was essentially the message that was delivered at a meeting I attended this past weekend. Would it be to obvious to say that it was in Pennsylvania.......

[9v system]

9v nuff said

[Steph 104th]

9v is great but if you want to power up more trains buying the expensive parts is costly once more I prefer the full plastic tracks opposed to the metal rails of 9v personally

[BrickBuff]

I would love to own a lot of 9V track, but as a relative newby to LEGO trains (2010) I decided that is not realistic, or smart. For the same money you can simply buy so much more of the PF track, and it's future proof.

And whilst there are some genuine advantages of 9V over PF, notably the fact you don't need a battery box, with some creativity this can be overcome with PF. For example, I've made a train where the battery box does not take up any interior space and therefore can have a fully details interior. See here for inspiration: