Power Functions vs. 9 volt

[3797]

I prefer the full plastic tracks opposed to the metal rails of 9v personally

May I ask why?

[Ashi Valkoinen]

Well, this topic coming up every quarter year, but here is my opinion:

I prefer 9V for exhibitions. You can run trains on 40 metres long layouts, without even getting up, no need of changing batteries, keeping double amount of rechargeable batteries to make trains run all the time.

The reason I like PF is the strength of those train motors. The two PF motors under my Siemens Taurus locomotive are now 4 years old, in these four years the loco pulled almost always heavier load than these motors were produced to pull and they are working still fine without any maintaince. I can't say this about 9V motors, electric contacts should be cleaned, they are getting old, I can't afford to replace them with totally new ones.

Now I'm running trains with dual-system: 9V train motor is picking up current, and it's connected to a PF-train motor. So instead of using two expensive motors I can spare one, and I hope PF train motors will be available for long years.

(And in last case: with a little modding you still can replace the inner small motor of 9V train motor with a PF-inner motor, and since keeping contacts clean you can make run your 9V train motor "forever")

[MusicaRibelle]

I wish I was more versed in electronics, and be able to make a half-size battery box with LiIon batteries and mini usb for charging on top.

In other words, when starting now, pf is the reasonable way to go, but I find battery boxes quite annoying.

I never run my trains for long stretches of time, so I don't care about battery life, but I realize I probably am in the minority :)

[detjensrobert]

...make a half-size battery box with LiIon batteries and mini usb for charging on top.

YES

[Selander]

I'm voluntarily migrating to PF and completely abandoning 9v. I find it that much better.

--Tony

+1.

I think there are several good reasons why I've made the same:

-Cheaper tracks.

-Several motors to choose from.

-Realistic power trains with all kinds of configurations like B, C, Co-Co..etc.

-Choose a gearing to optimise speed vs torque. (e g strong and slow shunters)

I agree PF battery box is bulky, but since also having migrated to building 8wide locomotives it's not a show stopper.

Also, fully charged (or new) batteries gives enough running time IMHO.

[dr_spock]

I think the easy thing for anyone starting out fresh is to try Power Functions first. The CITY starter sets all come with Power Function. If it doesn't work out for you, then spend the money, time and effort to go 9V.

[Inzane]

For those of you that started with 9v and then eventually switched to PF, did you guys combine all your track together? (Since PF will run just fine on old and new track)

[SavaTheAggie]

I did, no sense in not using the old track. Though I am going to have to save some 9v tracks out for my son. I'm going to let him play with it, no sense in letting it collect dust.

--Tony

[BarrySteer]

I have avoided all the problems by just doing my own DIY metal track. I am using rails using aluminium bar 10mm x 3mm in 3 metre lengths that i can get here in Australia from any hardware shop or metal dealer. The rail slots into the 1x1 clip on top lego part. So far I have straight sections, and can do curves of any fixed and variable radius. Progress is slow due to lack of money but eventually I will be free of limited geometry and get to have points on curves and double crossover points that are only limited by imagination and space. The tricky cross over bits can all be 3d printed. I started this as I found the straight 9v rails I couldn't get and would eventually get to expensive being discontinued. ME models at the time didn't look like they were manufacturing or were going to get kickstarter funding and battery IR control with plastic track is limiting. What I have tried to do is stick to the KISS principle by doing away with a rail profile which makes bending the bar to a radius difficult without specialised equipment. The eventual goal is Digital command control of all the trains.. I am also making copies of the wheels in metal to adapt the power functions motor and doing a power pickup bogies. The other problem of why i am also not using lego track is the radius is to tight and the trains too long when modeling trains in minifig scale and 8 stud wide. So it's just easier to not use power functions or 9v lego track as both have their problems, although you need deep pockets to have a large layout and the space but a garden railway is a possibility. https://www.flickr.com/photos/128316127@N08/with/15389451003/

[Redimus]

I think the easy thing for anyone starting out fresh is to try Power Functions first. The CITY starter sets all come with Power Function. If it doesn't work out for you, then spend the money, time and effort to go 9V.

That's exactly what I did. When I first started, I was really impressed with the PF stuff (I still think it pretty neat, and intend to use it for any future MOCs of electric locos because the noise is spot on), but it soon became apparent to me that if I wanted to do the type of trains I wanted to do (British steam era), in the size I wanted to do (7 wide, 8 looks wrong for the British loading gauge in my eyes and 6 wide is just too restrictive) I was going to have to bite the bullet and go for 9v.

Of course there are work arounds, but I don't want to make custom battery holders and I like to be able to run the locos light engine, which means they need to be powered.

[ust60]

Hi Railway friends,

the better system does not exist. This is a question of taste. And questions about the size of your wallet. And for me a question of age. Both systems offer advantages and disadvantages. If my son is still very young, I would start with PF trains. But I'm 54 years old. Many of my 9 volt rails are from the early days of my son. I even like it when the necessary energy comes from the rail. My trains need to lug, no extra weight. The battery box is unnecessary ballast for me.

I find it useful if the PF motors, can get its energy from the rail. Then in the boiler can have, for example, their steam locomotives drive motor.

Who few PF - Trains has only takes a few battery boxes, the Ok. But what in 10 moves? Or at 20 and even more trains? And when you need the battery empty. This can not happen on my 9 volt rails me. Look at my videos or pictures. For me, the question has been answered.

Yours sincerely, Udo

[gtoby001]

As I started out with lego trains in 2008, when the RC trains came out, I have both 7897 and 7898. I wanted the 9v ones but i thought that they would have been dangerous because I have a dog. Then, in 2010, I stopped lego until 2014. I got the 7948 train and I have made a custom 9v battery holder that works for pf. I prefer PF now as it also gives you better traction from the weight of the batteries. PF it is!

[Inzane]

until 2014. I got the 7948 train and I have made a custom 9v battery holder that works for pf.

7938? The previous red passenger train?

[Exa]

+1.

I think there are several good reasons why I've made the same:

-Cheaper tracks.

-Several motors to choose from.

-Realistic power trains with all kinds of configurations like B, C, Co-Co..etc.

-Choose a gearing to optimise speed vs torque. (e g strong and slow shunters)

+1

According to my use, I will add :

-Easy to do reverse loop with PF

-Several trains can run at different speed on the same track

On the downside, PF is not tunnel friendly ! There are now way to stop a PF train like a 9v one by using some tracks witch can be isolated.

Edited December 15, 2014 by Exa

[Selander]

Tunnel friendliness and many other aspects could be improved by swapping PF IR receiver to a SBrick ! Furthermore SBrick software allows for remote control of points while driving your train.

-This possible "upgrade" is another plus for PF.

[Exa]

Yep, just have to wait it becomes available. It will give a great advantage to PF.

[ust60]

Hello Thomas, Hello aka Exa

excuse the I interrupt you. I have a question. In a track. Several trains with different velocities. How big are your railway installations? How many meters rail line have built her?

Yours sincerely, Udo

[Exa]

Hello ust60,

You can see my layout here : http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=97423&st=50#entry2070056

- Inner track : 1298 studs, 10.38 meter

- Outer track : 1403 studs, 11.23 meter

Sometimes, I run two trains on the external track (both in the same direction) and one on the inner track in the opposite direction.

[cgarison]

On the downside, PF is not tunnel friendly !

Oh that is the truth. Watching my Horizon Express fly out of a tunnel and flop on its side about 1cm short of the edge of the layout was not good for my heart. S-Bricks cannot get here soon enough.

[ust60]

Hello Thomas, aka Hello Exa,

A very nice layout Exa. It really like it very much. But my question is, PF is also meaningful, better if their beautiful facility is much bigger?

I think at 10 or 20 trains. Really very large systems. 9 Volt advantage. When I started 20 years ago with the railroad. Has no one asked me 9 volts or PF.

Each system has advantages and disadvantages. It is best to use the advantages of both concepts

Yours sincerely, Udo

[Inzane]

Is the IR signal just not strong enough? What's the issue with tunnels.... line of sight?

[detjensrobert]

The IR signal cannot travel through the tunnel walls and thus the train cannot receive signals to change its speed. So, yes, it is a matter of line of sight.

[3797]

What I don't like about the SBrick is the lack of physical controls. I don't really like touch screens.

[Paperballpark]

I tend to just have the trains running at the same speed the whole way around, so that I don't have to keep fiddling with the speed.

[Steph 104th]

May I ask why?

I don't know I guess it boils down to personal preference and I'm quite a purist MOCer so all plastic just feels more like Lego.