Please help! Mam in trouble here.

Should see light on remote when u turn a dial/buttong

Hook motor directly to battery box and try.

Get a voltmeter and check the batteries out if in question.

Does the light on the battery box turn on green when u press the button on?

Are you sure you have it hooked up correctly? Go thru the instructions carefully and double check controller and receiver on right channel(same)

The LED on the battery box should show a solid green when the battery box is turned on. If the batteries are weak, the LED would be dim.

There is a LED on the receiver. It should show solid green when it is receiving power from the battery. The LED on the receiver will blink as it receives commands from the remote controller.

Check that all the cable connectors are pressed down correctly.

I have checked batteries as suggested. I here a large box of Duracell AAA.

Battery box light is not coming on when I press green button. I guess it should so?

I attached it directly to carriage too.

I checked the instructions. It's not that difficult, it all appears to be correct.

Very disappointing. He has spent all day building it all and even though he's only five, he did it entirely himself. I just reapplied one sticker and helped him find a brick once. He also built a lego ninjago dragon yesterday. He's a huge lego fan.

He's so good too. I explained it won't work, I need to get replacement parts most likely. He's very understanding!

Thanks for replying to me earlier.

If the AAA battery box is not coming on, check that the positive tips on the batteries are touching with the metal contacts in the battery box. The way the AAA battery box is designed the positive contacts are inside a small plastic hole. Sometimes the opening is too small for larger battery tips to make contact with the metal terminals. If your battery tips are small enough to fit through the opening to the metail contacts, check that they touch and not resting just outside of the hole.

Checked that thanks no luck. Th middle batteries have elong connector spots, the others are circular and tiny but all batteries are correctly in. At least the receiver is probably working and it seems to be the battery pack that's faulty. I am now proceeding to open the battery pack and peek inside as it has four corner screws. If it's faulty it can't harm it anyhow.....

I had the same problem.

Check te 6 batteries in the box. Adjust them better. This is 99% the problem. When fitt well, there should be a light on the box.

Edited December 26, 201410 yr by october

Ok I'll try that....

Ok you won't believe this. I dumped the Duracell out. I have a full box of 24, they are all new and full, I have a checker. I opened a pack of daewoo batteries and stuck them in. Light came on immediately. Yeh yeh yeh.

I wonder how come?!

Edited December 26, 201410 yr by FiOneLego

I'll tell u right now why.

Search Eneloop as I did a post on it.

Take a 3/8 drill bit and gently ream the holes in the battery case by hand, then folow up with a 7/16 bit by hand.

Clean up an flash and you will never have the problem again with any battery in it period.

I used one of my other battery boxes on my sons new cargo train I assembled yesterday because it did the same thing as the others, I have 3 or 4 that I have reamed out by hand now and once you do it u will have no problems with batteries.

Very interesting thanks. I will look that post up. Train is speeding around. He has so rarely been awake this late but I fixed it so late. We had to reassemble train as I dropped it too, oops! ⚠️

Edited December 26, 201410 yr by FiOneLego

Exactly on the remote.

Each side has 4 separate channels so you could run 8 trains if u wanted lol

I use one side for motor and the other for lights :-)

Get some lights from Lego and sneak them in on your son he will flip out !

Here is the link for u:

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=90756&hl=

Should make it real easy for you

Superb guys you just saved another boys Xmas, having same prob with two different lego trains, one using Duracell pro cells and one with Kodak batteries. Tried some old cheap ones and they are working - one very happy boy in the morning- thanks again

Very interesting thanks. I will look that post up. Train is speeding around. He has so rarely been awake this late but I fixed it so late. We had to reassemble train as I dropped it too, oops! ⚠️������

As an new train user can you explain why two dials on remote? Is that for a second train set?������������

There are two outputs on the IR receiver. The second dial on the remote can be used to control the second output. You can use it for lights or another train on the same channel.

I modified my 60052 with working ditch lights using the LEGO LEDs. They are controlled by the second dial.

60052 Cargo Train MOD by dr_spock_888, on Flickr

Edited December 26, 201410 yr by dr_spock

Thanks. I read the link posts.

Unusual I had the problem with Duracell. I had swapped them all out too and messed around with them in the battery box to ensure they were connecting properly. The Daewoo worked the second I threw them in with no care at all.

I'm thinking this is a regular lego train problem now. They should include some 'proper' tips on fixing this, the website is rubbish (for this) and instructions are non-existent for trouble shooting.

Thankfully I found you guys. Nice to see others helped too.

Still, we do love lego.

I had a similar issue. Two cargo trains (two kids). One of them, the battery box won't power on. Fairly certain that the batteries aren't making contact, but all of mine are rechargeable, with thicker casings, so can't prove it.

Christmas day tears avoided because we already have other battery boxes, which power on fine with the batteries I have.

Also (off-topix) - I've seen this said on these forums before but not really experienced it - the clutch power of some parts is very poor in the sets my kids have this christmas, the 1x2 grille tiles particularly.

Thanks Fi. Just had the same problem with duracell batteries. I replaced with Panasonic brand and lego train is working perfectly now. Duracell batch problem I guess. Thanks again from a very happy son and father!! D.

BTW, if you want better performance from the train, and you're not afraid of hacking the lego parts a bit...

...get a knife or tiny flat screwdriver, and very carefully remove the o-rings (rubber traction tyres) from the 4 unpowered wheels on the engine. They're only needed for the powered wheels, and they cause the engine to slow down on curves.

(Those unpowered wheels bind on curves because the outside wheel needs to go faster than the inside wheel on the curve, but they can't because they're on a single axle. Removing the traction tyres means the wheels can slip, which reduces the problem).

I'm going to make this clear, its not a Duracell problem, its not an Eneloop problem, its a LEGO problem.

Don't drink the Kool-Aid and be blinded by the obvious. Wish my pics were still in that old thread I made.

Take a drill bit and ream the holes out by hand and you have permanently fixed it.

I'm new to this site and have no idea what I'm doing. But my son also got the cargo train 60052 and we can't get it to move. All the green lights come on but no movement! What are we doing wrong?

Two things to try:

- is the channel on the remote the same as the channel on the IR receiver? There are channels 1-4, both remote and receiver have a switch to set channel.

- what happens if you connect the motor directly to the battery box? It should spin. That lets you rule out a bad motor.

Try Lego customer service? My impression from forums like this is that bad Power Functions parts are very very rare, but Lego are usually very very good about swapping out parts for free if there is any problem.

Edited January 21, 201510 yr by andythenorth

Lego now have a trouble shooting page for train users - see:-

http://service.lego....tery-box-issues

Quote:

The LEGO battery box works best with AAA batteries that provide 1.5 volts each. This is because the IR receiver and train motor require almost 9 volts (6x1.5V) in order to work properly. Rechargeable AAA batteries only provide 1.2 volts each, which is why we advise not to use them to power your train.

Unquote:

http://service.lego....052-city-trains

Edited January 21, 201510 yr by Doug72

Funny my friend who works at a Lego retailer told me yesterday as I didn't ask him though that Duracell batteries are the problem......the design of their outer casing of each cell (yes, a AAA is a cell not a battery as a battery is made up of cells.....trust me I'm an electronics tech I should know ). The way the top of the battery is made it doesn't allow for proper electrical connect to complete the circuit at the positive terminal.

I guess Lego forgot to test the design using ALL kinds of batteries on the market......unless Duracell have changed their design recently ?

Also the fact on not using rechargeable's is true, they do work but operate time will be much less than on proper 1.5V cells. Basic at 1.2V you are already down to 80% of operating voltage and by the time you are down to less than 70%......it's slow going to a point of dead stop.

Just built mine works fine. Energizer batteries.

Lego now have a trouble shooting page for train users - see:-

http://service.lego....tery-box-issues

Quote:

The LEGO battery box works best with AAA batteries that provide 1.5 volts each. This is because the IR receiver and train motor require almost 9 volts (6x1.5V) in order to work properly. Rechargeable AAA batteries only provide 1.2 volts each, which is why we advise not to use them to power your train.

Unquote:

http://service.lego....052-city-trains

That is bull and NOT good for the enviroment, shame one you TLG

PF works just fine on 7.2V. What is the voltage of the rechargeable batterybox again?

Problem is that not all batteries (yes, they're cells LT - but that is confusing people) conform to the AAA standard and TLG made the batteryboxes the way they did

It's not proper testing before product launch, something TLG normally is very good at but seems to cock up often when it comes to electrical parts

ETA : There are pdf's with dimensinal drawings at the bottom of this wiki page :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AAA_battery

I have loads of different AAAs (mainly NiMH) and they all worked when I used PF. I have some none rechargeable 9Vs that fits very badly inside the old 9V baettryboxes, so it's not a new problem

Edited January 22, 201510 yr by 1974

Rechargeables work for me when running the 60052 straight out of the box. Just make sure you get batteries whose positive tip fits through the plastic opening to the positive metal contacts. Or if you are not squirmish, you can try v6TransAM's suggestion of reaming the plastic openings larger.