I'm more interested in the actual thought process behind the the design of the gearbox. Did you come up with a shifting mechanism first and then develop the gearbox around it? Was it a like a "flashbulb" idea of was it something you were working on for a while?

Anyway, this is just an amazing build. Definitely IMO the best Lego technic supercar.

How about flipping the light around and attaching it under the white panel that is above it , that way you would not even have to worry about the studs because they are hidden by the panel.

I have tried that, but it is actually quite difficult to get the attachment point just below the panel surface. The natural attachment point is so low that it interferes with the wheel. You can't really connect much to the inside of a panel...

I'm more interested in the actual thought process behind the the design of the gearbox. Did you come up with a shifting mechanism first and then develop the gearbox around it? Was it a like a "flashbulb" idea of was it something you were working on for a while?

Anyway, this is just an amazing build. Definitely IMO the best Lego technic supercar.

Thx for the compliment

The gearbox was developed in phases and had a couple of "flashbulb moments"

The first one was when I realized that I only needed one selector mechanism to operate both the gearbox and the seats.

I then took quite some time to figure out what the best arrangement of the mechanisms was. I started with a symmetric design (I am really a sucker for symmetry in my builds). So my second lightbulb moment was when I realized I could win space & performance by placing the gearbox a few studs to the right.

The use of the microphone as a means to connect a 6L-link perpendicular to a knobwheel I would count as the third lightbulb lighting up. Before I though of that I was contemplating schemes with the knobwheels in a vertical orientation, but that required the knobwheels to be one stud lower (on a suspended chassis that is only a stud above the ground) to prevent asymmetric operation.

I then had this moment that happens during any build where all pieces just seem to fall into place...

I'm using the old switching mechanism, which means that there is a half stud offset for all parts that are connected to the shifting levers. However, at an earlier stage in the design I had already decided that the handlebar also needed a half stud offset to get the smooth lines in the rear section. This made for a natural attachmentpoint for the selectormechanism.

And then the real hardache started...

There is very little space between the gear box (located under & behind the handlebar) and the seats (touching the handle bar when in the aftermost position and only 3 studs apart). The mechanism had to fit in this almost zero-space, lock every 90 degrees and be motorized.

The last breakthrough was the idea to split the locking function from the motorization. The locking is achieved through pressing two bionicle teeth against the middle knobwheel. I tried to drive this same knobwheel with some clever lever mechanism, but got always into trouble with the other two knobwheels meshing into it. Adding a second gear higher up the middleaxle finally solved this issue.

It then still took over 10 iterations to come to the design I now have, but I would call that the normal design work ...

I envy the crap out of you guys with the "flashbulb" moments and "everything falls into place" moments.

I only have "at last something that's okay for now and I will come back later to make it elegant at least a bit" moments (and the elegant rebuilding never happens) and "everything fell into place!....Wait, the key feature/looks is now totally fcked, I have to give up a feature again or should give up this whole Lego hobby crap once and for all" moments.

Okay, I also have "this is totally killer god looking awesomeness" and "I'm the coolest person on the planet" moments sometimes

I envy the crap out of you guys with the "flashbulb" moments and "everything falls into place" moments.

I only have "at last something that's okay for now and I will come back later to make it elegant at least a bit" moments (and the elegant rebuilding never happens) and "everything fell into place!....Wait, the key feature/looks is now totally fcked, I have to give up a feature again or should give up this whole Lego hobby crap once and for all" moments.

Okay, I also have "this is totally killer god looking awesomeness" and "I'm the coolest person on the planet" moments sometimes

You should see the junkyard of my failed ideas it's very crowded out there

But I have to admit that working on this car was really a pleasure, I didn't have many stuck-in-the-mud moments...

Well obviously not, because I believe that this is the best moc motorized supercar of the year, and I highly doubt that we'll see anything better. Literally nothing I don't like about this car. You're right at the top of my favourite technic supercar list, right up there with brunojj, sheepo, sariel, nico71, crowkillers, Jürgen krooshop, madoca1977, the lot of those pro builders. I would continue describing the presence of this car, but I need to pick my jaw up off of the floor.

The only thing I would ask is, you see it's a 4c 'SPIDER', is there are portable roof to go with it, that can be removed like in the Bugatti Veyron vitesse, or can it be stored in the car like a pagani zonda 760 roadster and a koenigsegg agera r.

Also, what is the gear ratio of your Alfa?

Final update before submitting the model to the competition. Tomorrow I will make photos of the final version.

Complete overhaul of the internal mechanisms... again...

It now features also:

- dashboard

- fake diskbrakes on front & rear wheels

- single spring McPherson rear suspension

Bugs that have been fixed:

- An axle that could fall out at the rear drivetrain is now secured (this triggered the complete redesign of the chassis)

- An axle that would worm itself out of the gear selector mechanism is now fixed (finally I found a use for those tan 4L axles)

I have uploaded the LDD file to bricksafe:

http://www.bricksafe.com/files/JeroenOttens///AR4C_v17a.lxf

This file misses a couple of parts (they are not available in LDD):

2x L-motor

1x servomotor

2x chrome exhaust pipes (brick round 1x1 2/3)

1x 5L white ribbed hose 7mm

2x White Cylinder 4 x 4 x 1 2/3 with Axle Holes (the parts that go around the tail lights)

The position of these parts should be fairly obvious.

In the steering column a 5L axle is used between the two U-joints, however in practice a 5.5L axle works better. Make sure that the U-joint orientation is the same on both sides of the axle.

I used black 3L axles to replicate the new "Technic, Axle Pin 3L with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and 2L Axle"

There are some parts lying behind the model (I couldn't make them fit in LDD):

The red elastic band is to drive the fake engine

Two white elastic bands are used in the chairs

Two white elastic bands are used in the gear selector mechanism (to push the bionicle teeth against the knobwheel)

Two white elastic bands are used in the back-bonnet to keep the slight angle in the structure

The flexaxles are used to shape the car (check the photos for the location of these)

The two white perpendicular connectors are used in the rear wheel fender

The two black fences are used in the front bumper, they attach to the 2x1 technic brick with 2 holes

The two white #1 connectors are used on the doors (at the front)

The two white 3x5 curved planes are used in the back (the position should be quite obvious)

I have been trying to make instructions, but haven't succeeded (I tried to make photos while building the car up, but finding out halfway that I missed a piece somewhere at the beginning. And when I fixed that I found out that I should do a lot in a different order to prevent impossible constructions)

I'm in dubio about buildinginstructions now. I'd rather spend my time on my next model, instead of trying to find the proper way of building this model. Having the LDD file and the photos that I will make tomorrow should be enough to build the model... (albeit not for the faint of heart...).

If someone wants to replicate the model based on the LDD file I'll be happy to provide help if things are not entirely clear.

Leg godt

Edited February 18, 201510 yr by Jeroen Ottens

Great, I was worried that you dropped out of the competition.

Final update before submitting the model to the competition. Tomorrow I will make photos of the final version.

Complete overhaul of the internal mechanisms... again...

It now features also:

- dashboard

- fake diskbrakes on front & rear wheels

- single spring McPherson rear suspension

Bugs that have been fixed:

- An axle that could fall out at the rear drivetrain is now secured (this triggered the complete redesign of the chassis)

- An axle that would worm itself out of the gear selector mechanism is now fixed (finally I found a use for those tan 4L axles)

I have uploaded the LDD file to bricksafe:

http://www.bricksafe...///AR4C_v17.lxf

This file misses a couple of parts (they are not available in LDD):

2x L-motor

1x servomotor

2x chrome exhaust pipes (brick round 1x1 2/3)

1x 5L white ribbed hose 7mm

2x White Cylinder 4 x 4 x 1 2/3 with Axle Holes (the parts that go around the tail lights)

The position of these parts should be fairly obvious.

In the steering column a 5L axle is used between the two U-joints, however in practice a 5.5L axle works better. Make sure that the U-joint orientation is the same on both sides of the axle.

I used black 3L axles to replicate the new "Technic, Axle Pin 3L with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and 2L Axle"

There are some parts lying behind the model (I couldn't make them fit in LDD):

The red elastic band is to drive the fake engine

Two white elastic bands are used in the chairs

Two white elastic bands are used in the gear selector mechanism (to push the bionicle teeth against the knobwheel)

Two white elastic bands are used in the back-bonnet to keep the slight angle in the structure

The flexaxles are used to shape the car (check the photos for the location of these)

The two white perpendicular connectors are used in the rear wheel fender

The two black fences are used in the front bumper, they attach to the 2x1 technic brick with 2 holes

The two white #1 connectors are used on the doors (at the front)

The two white 3x5 curved planes are used in the back (the position should be quite obvious)

I have been trying to make instructions, but haven't succeeded (I tried to make photos while building the car up, but finding out halfway that I missed a piece somewhere at the beginning. And when I fixed that I found out that I should do a lot in a different order to prevent impossible constructions)

I'm in dubio about buildinginstructions now. I'd rather spend my time on my next model, instead of trying to find the proper way of building this model. Having the LDD file and the photos that I will make tomorrow should be enough to build the model... (albeit not for the faint of heart...).

If someone wants to replicate the model based on the LDD file I'll be happy to provide help if things are not entirely clear.

Leg godt

I will try recreate this if i have some time , also waiting for 15 bricklink orders so cant order any more till they come :) .

I do think photo instructions would help a lot I have built form ldd before and man its crazzzzy hard .

don't know what else to say , just amazing

+ 1 OMG

simply stunning! :thumbup:

Last video to show the new internals and the (at last ) fully functional gearbox:

And final pictures for the contest:

Thanks again for all the comments and positive criticism. It certainly helped me to improve my MOC

You really should replace the original gearbox video part with this one.

Good luck! :P

Great work jereon ottens, I still can't get my head round that sequential mechanism on the gearbox.

Beautiful! Thank you for the file, I hope someone with skills will be able to make instructions out of it.

A thing of beauty!

And the winner is..

Best moc yet.

For your information: I'm trying to create building instructions for this beautiful car.

I don't know how long it will take though, my free time is very variable and the car is quite difficult (to build and to make instructions for)

This would be really great and i am sure that there will be many very thankfull people who won't stop praising you. I am One of them ;-)

The gearbox is amazing, the colour scheme is brilliant and the whole creation is absolutely fantastic! You can be really proud of what you did here!

For your information: I'm trying to create building instructions for this beautiful car.

I don't know how long it will take though, my free time is very variable and the car is quite difficult (to build and to make instructions for)

That would be fantastic. I've already considered making some renders, but the conversion from LDD to LDraw is too buggy so there are lots of holes.

For your information: I'm trying to create building instructions for this beautiful car.

I don't know how long it will take though, my free time is very variable and the car is quite difficult (to build and to make instructions for)

I'll send you a PM to explain the order in which I build up the model.

I have found one bug in the design though. The way the mini-LA's are mounted is a one-way construction. You can assemble it, but it will be difficult to disassemble...

I have uploaded a new file to bricksafe in which this bug is solved. It also makes the model slighty easier to build:

http://www.bricksafe.com/files/JeroenOttens///AR4C_v17a.lxf

@Jim: Can you change the link in the entry topic to the link above as well?

We're working hard on the instructions. It's not the most easy car to build, but I think the people here don't mind a little challenge

The chassis is almost finished (stepped and all)