Which stock set for MOC supercar?

[Ploki]

Hi,

I finally (thanks to my girlfriend) got the 8880 supercar. I now have 8880, 8448, 8070. Not too interested in 865, will pick it up if i find it cheap.

bottom line, I'll leave these alone. At the moment, there's a 8070 for sale for 150€ and 8880 for which I can't get the price. Do you recommend any set for a baseline set?

The transmission i like best from 8448, but overall its my least favourite of the three. also pretty rare and expensive.

There's a big difference between 8070 and 8880. (Studs vs studless, wheel hubs, etc).

[Rishab N]

It depends what type of supercar you want to make. If you want a modern studless design, then 8070 would be the best

[DrJB]

Agree that 8070, plus it has the old spindle and A-arms that most/ALL MOCs out there use. If you want a mixed collection of studded/liftarms, then possibly 8466 is a good car to get. You can get one for near $150 off eBay if you're patient, and last week one New MISB sold for barely $200.

[Ploki]

I was eyeing 8466 for a while, but its more expensive than 8070 I can pick up locally.

@RishabN: come to think of, I probably want to go studless.

how about 8461? My biggest concern is lack of transmission, but I guess I could get that off brick link.

also, I'm based in europe. all 8466 are more expensive than 8070. (new 42000 perhaps?). I'm explicitly getting a set for parts.

Edited January 4, 2015 by Ploki

[Balrog]

I'd start of with 8070. At least that's what I did a few years ago.

[Richard Dower]

agree on 8070....it has alot of the parts you'd need for a supercar MOC....lots of suspension parts, flexible hoses, etc.

[madjelly]

8070 is a great choice. I got into technic over a year ago and that set gave me good parts to work with. If you are considering 42000 also, get it soon after 8070. It is a great set too and it has been recently discontinued.

[Ploki]

That's the thing, I can get 42000 here new for ~99€, and 8070 is 150€.

If someone has some insight on 42000, I'd appreciate it, since its substantially cheaper to 8070. Else I'll probably go with the 8070!

thanks for suggestions.

Edited January 4, 2015 by Ploki

[sdotcarter]

That's the thing, I can get 42000 here new for ~99€, and 8070 is 150€.

If someone has some insight on 42000, I'd appreciate it, since its substantially cheaper to 8070. Else I'll probably go with the 8070!

thanks for suggestions.

Get 8070, i would. I have 42k and the only thing i found interesting was the suspension,

[Epic Technic]

If you want to make a red one with panels I would get the 42029 but then you would need to get some other wheels( it does have the nice hubs from the 42000!) .

Edited January 5, 2015 by Epic Technic

[Ploki]

@Epic Technics: not to keen on red. not want to spend too much either. :)

But looks like for the moment I'm forced to go red, and 42029 seems like a nice additional source of parts. I'll try to get one cheap.

I already have an old street bike (8420) which I might take apart for parts.

Edited January 5, 2015 by Ploki

[Ploki]

I found a kick-megablocks deal on a 42000 (half-price of new), thinking of getting it for the parts anyway irregardless of getting 8070, since it seems to good of a deal to pass up.

[Ploki]

I ended up getting 42000 for 46€ with box, non-used stickers and all spare parts. Seemed too good of a deal to pass up. Have bunch of white parts now... Any decent white sets to get more white parts?

[Nazgarot]

42025! I won't give you any supercar parts (steering, suspention, hubs etc), but it will give you a heck lots of parts...

I would still grab the 8070 if I where you, at least get some of those A-arms on bricklink. They are exceptionally nice for making advanced steering geometry.

-ED-

[Ploki]

Cool! That cargo plane seems it could fit nicely with what I got with 42000, and its got mostly white parts! Thanks for the heads up.

I have 8070! just don't want to take it apart. :( And new ones are expensive. I'm eyeing one locally, its costs more than new 42025... Perhaps if i sell some of my old crap I'll grab it.

This A-arms you posted don't work with 42000 hubs though (just checked) anyway, so I'd need to get the old hubs as well. Can't say they feel any better than the new ones on 42000

[DrJB]

This A-arms you posted don't work with 42000 hubs though (just checked) anyway, so I'd need to get the old hubs as well. Can't say they feel any better than the new ones on 42000

The A-arms SHOULD work with the new (steerable) hubs. All you need is two towball pins, as shown below

+ += works fine

However, the non-steerable will be difficult to attach to the A-arm

+ ? += ?

Edited January 13, 2015 by DrJB

[Ploki]

Oh right. I didnt notice that. Good to know!

You could attach two 3L beams with 3L pins on each side, you then get two holes for towball pins.

[Ploki]

Whats the advantage of using A-arms compared to just using liftarms? Read a few threafs but couldnt find a straight answer

[Graydingo]

Whats the advantage of using A-arms compared to just using liftarms? Read a few threafs but couldnt find a straight answer

Space. More compact with the A-arms. The new green buggie has front a-arms and spindles as well.

[DrJB]

Whats the advantage of using A-arms compared to just using liftarms? Read a few threafs but couldnt find a straight answer

Mainly this: The A-arms are a must for steerable axles, and you can use basic liftarms for non-steered axles. I've seen builds with only liftarms (both steered and not), but they tend to get very bulky quickly. A perfect example is the old F1 racers from lego.

[Ploki]

thanks!

[5imon]

Mainly this: The A-arms are a must for steerable axles, and you can use basic liftarms for non-steered axles.

It doesn't necessarily have to be A-arms. There are also the smaller, newer style steering arms (in light bluish grey) that look just like a liftarm with a ball joint receptable at one end. They could be your choice if it has to be as compact as possible, however I think with the A-arms the whole setup is a bit more robust as they have a larger base where they are attached to the frame and don't "wobble" so much in the longitudinal direction as the small arms.

[Ploki]

So, i bought the 42000, started building and will buy parts as I go.

I came across a problem, I made a pretty low profile, double wishbone unequal length arm suspension with a very angled spring.

It has a pretty nice response, camber is pretty decent all the way compressed and it still retains some ground clearance. (for which I don't care much since I'm making something low and sleek)

the only problem I have is , that the spring is already a little compressed when in "idle" position. Is that a problem?

edit: also, the attachments are just to hold things in place, ill rework the structure when I'm done with actual mechanics.

Edited January 19, 2015 by Ploki

[cgg199]

The shock isn't only compressed, but it's bent The mounting point of the shock absorber is going to have to changed, probably moved up in order for this to work properly. I like the idea, just not the bent shock!

[Ploki]

Aw! I missed that.

I see what you mean. I can try to mount the upper list-arms from outside though, but I can guess it won't be too stable.

if i mount it higher, it looses the springiness and becomes very stiff. Perhaps still good enough for a large car though, this one is really springy.

Edited January 19, 2015 by Ploki