zephyr1934 Posted February 22, 2015 Posted February 22, 2015 If you have the track already, layout something, play with it until you get something you like, then measure it. If to large, reiterate. If you want to join the two loops with normal lego switches you will need another 10 inches but you can do better by modifying the switches into a crossover so that it is the same size as the loop if there were no switches. Quote
Chromeknight Posted February 22, 2015 Posted February 22, 2015 Flex track used as curves have a tighter radius than standard lego curves. The trade-off is more noise while cornering and the possibility that some of your rolling stock won't like it and derail. Quote
davidmull Posted February 24, 2015 Author Posted February 24, 2015 (edited) Ok with my layout pretty much maxed out for now iv bought extra parts to make two more tankers from 7939. Really love tankers so now iv 3. Should I get more or where do u draw the line. Was thinking maybe 6 together without the container wagons. Can build them for around €15 each. Edited February 24, 2015 by davidmull Quote
jtlan Posted February 24, 2015 Posted February 24, 2015 Ok with my layout pretty much maxed out for now iv bought extra parts to make two more tankers from 7939. Really love tankers so now iv 3. Should I get more or where do u draw the line. Was thinking maybe 6 together without the container wagons. Can build them for around €15 each. I've got 5 2-axles tankers (basically the tank section from 60016), and basically just keeping an eye out for spare parts for more (also have an alternate 4-axle design that looks more 'Murrican). The axles and buffers (and bogie plates, for the longer ones) are the most expensive parts. You should build as many as you're happy with, although I'd argue that after about 5 or so repeating the same car doesn't add much visual interest. I also think there's probably not that much point to having a train longer than the longest straight section on your layout. Quote
davidmull Posted April 9, 2015 Author Posted April 9, 2015 Managed a double loop on the 6x3. Had to cut the switch tracks to make work. Was going to buy 7996 switch tracj but no need now. Yes I might have to reverse out but I don't mind as in real life they do the same. Quote
MusicaRibelle Posted April 11, 2015 Posted April 11, 2015 Cool. If one day you manage to gain an extra 10", the length of two straights, you can 'double' your outer curve. I.e. where the curve starts, insert a switch instead, on each side. You'll gain another line to temporarily store another train, which can join the track or return to 'parked' curve in either direction. Of course it's more realistic to do that with a long straight, but finding space there may be more difficult. Quote
davidmull Posted April 11, 2015 Author Posted April 11, 2015 (edited) Cool. If one day you manage to gain an extra 10", the length of two straights, you can 'double' your outer curve. I.e. where the curve starts, insert a switch instead, on each side. You'll gain another line to temporarily store another train, which can join the track or return to 'parked' curve in either direction. Of course it's more realistic to do that with a long straight, but finding space there may be more difficult. Ya I'm happy with it. Yes a bit more long would be nice. I'd like it a bit wider too so I could put a siding at the back. But with the space I have I'm happy. Quick question do I have the Ends too close together for 2 trains to pass there only 4 studs apart? I haven't all my trains built yet but 60051 and 7939 seem to clear ok. Edited April 11, 2015 by davidmull Quote
Exa Posted April 11, 2015 Posted April 11, 2015 4 should work fine with Lego vanilla trains but it's too short for large MOC steam engine or HE. Quote
davidmull Posted April 11, 2015 Author Posted April 11, 2015 4 should work fine with Lego vanilla trains but it's too short for large MOC steam engine or HE. Vanilla? Quote
MusicaRibelle Posted April 12, 2015 Posted April 12, 2015 What Exa said. Emerald Night and Horizon Express need about 6 studs of clearance from other trains. Now of you put any of them on the outer loop, you don't care, you can keep your inner loop 4 studs distant from the outer, and you'll be fine. Quote
mpfsousa Posted January 17, 2016 Posted January 17, 2016 Managed a double loop on the 6x3. Had to cut the switch tracks to make work. Was going to buy 7996 switch tracj but no need now. Yes I might have to reverse out but I don't mind as in real life they do the same. Hi Duke i really love you train layout. You don´t arrange that ? Thanks Quote
darkkhild9 Posted January 17, 2016 Posted January 17, 2016 Hello All, First time here. Thought I would give some feedback though to this question. Would you be opposed to doing a elvated track and having two systems running in that fashion? From the picture of the layout, I would allow my imagination to have the top track as a personnel train such as High Speed and have the lower rail to be for the Cargo. Have some means of inter connection for the minifigs to get to one or another.... Just my pondering. Quote
davidmull Posted January 20, 2016 Author Posted January 20, 2016 I'm done with this layout for now hope to have tables next week which will give me near 8 foot long by 5 foot wide. Quote
davidmull Posted January 27, 2016 Author Posted January 27, 2016 Picked up my new tables today in ikea. Now i have a more respectable 8x4 feet. Lots more room now. Quote
legoman666 Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 Picked up my new tables today in ikea. Now i have a more respectable 8x4 feet. Lots more room now. Down the rabbit hole.... Quote
dr_spock Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 Picked up my new tables today in ikea. Now i have a more respectable 8x4 feet. Lots more room now. Nice. You may find yourself wanting to get a few more in a short time. Is that a guest bed under the tables? Quote
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