I use power functions wheels, which have thicker flanges and treads, which is why I only need a 4 stud gap between the wheel sets.

Haven't used the old wheels in over a decade, since I discovered that individual wheels mounted on flick-fire missile pins are virtually frictionless and offer way more flexibility for custom bogies.

I use power functions wheels, which have thicker flanges and treads, which is why I only need a 4 stud gap between the wheel sets.

Haven't used the old wheels in over a decade, since I discovered that individual wheels mounted on flick-fire missile pins are virtually frictionless and offer way more flexibility for custom bogies.

Well, there's the reason, these wheels are modeled off the standard wheel sets, not the technic ones. How do they run if you space them out a bit?

The axle holes are too loose for that. I suppose I could just kragle them on, but I might try to find another use for them first.

My wheels arrived, but I'm out of town for the week. Sigh.

My wheels arrived, but I'm out of town for the week. Sigh.

Life is cruel, but at least it looks like you will have good fun when you return

last friday I got some steels wheels to, try to make a RC train motor in 9 volt train motor but do you use a PF-motor ?

forgot to quote post #75 (new here, sorry)

Edited February 18, 201510 yr by Q3671

last friday I got some steels wheels to, try to make a RC train motor in 9 volt train motor but do you use a PF-motor ?

forgot to quote post #75 (new here, sorry)

I'm not sure I understand. You want to put steel wheels on a RC or PF train motor and pick up power from the track? If so, how are you going up pull power up from the wheels? The bulk of the motor casing will get in the way.

wheels contact 9v rails, cu wire contact wheels and bring the 9v to the motor conector (thats what i had in mind), the original wheels can stay in the train motor, the power can picked up on the first wagon (like the 7750)

i was surfing the net for some info how to make contact w the 9v rails, first in mind contact wire, found a person in Holland who makes metal trainwheels 3d printing

That makes sense. I use this wire: http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tic/tic1100.htm it is stiff copper. Easy to solder. I posted a photo earlier showing how.

Just got home and played with the steam wheels. The holes are too small. Not a huge deal, but they need to be fixed. To make my first set of 4 work, I sanded down the ends of the 6L axle. Secondly, the flange is spaced about .5mm too far out from the center. That is to say, when two wheels are spaced 4 studs apart on the same axle, the wheels do not fit nicely into the gap between the rails. Other than that, they are ok. The look fantastic too.

On the small flange regular wheels, my set of 4 are ok. In my experience, I have found that there are two different diameter axles. On the larger of the two, these wheels work great. On the small, the axle hole is too big. Aaron, you might try digging through your collection of axles and find a pair that fit better.

Interesting. I'll take a look.

I modified the small flange wheel to be fatter. No longer has the issues with being too narrow, but still suffers from the flange being too small and so catching on the joint between track pieces.

They will probably work fine on rolling stock, but I don't recommend using them for drive wheels. You could sand down the flange to make it steeper and they'd work better. I can't change the model though because the outer rim of the flange is already the minimum thickness for 3d printing.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GE4KBN9QR/small-flange-lego-wheel

Edited March 28, 20159 yr by legoman666

Something else I had printed. Small plastic inserts that you can put in to an 8mm hole in the NWSL O gauge wheels. Both the inserts and wheels are cheap. Seem to work OK.

http://shop.osorail.com/ item # 96000912

https://www.shapeways.com/product/TUK2SNQCP/wheel-insert?optionId=56095738

Edited March 28, 20159 yr by legoman666

Legoman666 - I went to your shape ways shop and the standard size steel wheels and steam wheels are not for sale currently. I'm interested in the standard size wheel. Any update on this? And are there any versions of the wheel without the technic axle (the one with round hole for the metal axle?)

Legoman666 - I went to your shape ways shop and the standard size steel wheels and steam wheels are not for sale currently. I'm interested in the standard size wheel. Any update on this? And are there any versions of the wheel without the technic axle (the one with round hole for the metal axle?)

Sorry. I just received my beta of the updated steam wheel and hadn't had a chance to update the listing yet. My quick test shows that it should be OK to sell.

As for the standard sized wheel, I need to make the flange smaller so it'll work better on ME Models track. May I ask the purpose of wanting the wheel without the technic axle hole? That seems to defeat the purpose in my mind. Lego sells the very same thing for much cheaper.

The small flanged wheel is good to order, but be aware that it might derail in turnouts, especially if you're using them for the drive wheels in a brick built truck.

I realize that this is 100% unrelated, but I'm curious and don't want to start another thread.

The current Power Function wheels with the technic hole in the middle that come on the PF motors these days.

I just grabbed about 8 in red colour. Is there a set that these came on or how did these come about??

Sorry. I just received my beta of the updated steam wheel and hadn't had a chance to update the listing yet. My quick test shows that it should be OK to sell.

As for the standard sized wheel, I need to make the flange smaller so it'll work better on ME Models track. May I ask the purpose of wanting the wheel without the technic axle hole? That seems to defeat the purpose in my mind. Lego sells the very same thing for much cheaper.

The small flanged wheel is good to order, but be aware that it might derail in turnouts, especially if you're using them for the drive wheels in a brick built truck.

I would like steel wheels to replace the standard plastic wheel with the metal axle. I suppose these could be used for power pickup as well on 9v track. I would like the technic wheel for some drive wheels with power pick up. The derailment issue with the small flanged wheel is unfortunate.

I realize that this is 100% unrelated, but I'm curious and don't want to start another thread.

The current Power Function wheels with the technic hole in the middle that come on the PF motors these days.

I just grabbed about 8 in red colour. Is there a set that these came on or how did these come about??

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=55423c01&colorID=5&in=A

From the Toy Story train

I realize that this is 100% unrelated, but I'm curious and don't want to start another thread.

The current Power Function wheels with the technic hole in the middle that come on the PF motors these days.

I just grabbed about 8 in red colour. Is there a set that these came on or how did these come about??

They're from the Toy Story Western Train Chase set: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=7597-1

They're from the Toy Story Western Train Chase set: http://www.bricklink...em.asp?S=7597-1

Thanks - I did initially suspect that train, but saw the big wheels and turned around and said nope. You made me re-visit that, I'm glad they're available. I'm working on a mod and it wouldn't be the same without those wheels.

I would like steel wheels to replace the standard plastic wheel with the metal axle. I suppose these could be used for power pickup as well on 9v track. I would like the technic wheel for some drive wheels with power pick up. The derailment issue with the small flanged wheel is unfortunate.

If you have 2 metal wheels connected by a metal pin, it'll be a short circuit. I'll try to get the updated regular wheel uploaded this week when I get home from out of town.

If you have 2 metal wheels connected by a metal pin, it'll be a short circuit. I'll try to get the updated regular wheel uploaded this week when I get home from out of town.

Very true! Unless you insulate the axle or use one metal and one plastic wheel per axle. You'd need two axles for pickup if you go the later route. Thanks for getting the regular wheel up.