Little excited. Bought a sealed set off ebay this afternoon. My first "new" lego since 1990. Have decided to also make it my last. Was a snippet trepidatious at how much i was spending and may track down one or two used classics but am certainly going to enjoy this one.

Probably been done to death already but any suggestions on small enhancements or pitfalls i should be wary of? Would like to build fairly as is but in searching have read of a glitch in the front panhard rod joint and the suggestion of an air tank.

Am prone to tinkering with my other two main babies (both ebay buys made waaaaay out of production. An 8860 and an 8880. They're never truly finished are they?) so don't really mind if i need to pull parts of it down post assembly but if theres something to be "put to right" in the preliminaries i'd love to be made aware in advance please. Am not expecting the model to be perfect but would like it at least as good as it should be in box stock form so would love if you've run across hiccups or outright maladies, could you make me aware please?

Thanks for your time, glen.

You can motorize you set with a XL motor & a M (or servo) motor for the direction, and also a remote control + IR reciever to control it. But the PF parts are quite expensive and I find that motorize a model is not very interesting. Here a video that can help you to motorize the set :

As you mentionned, you can add an air tank to improve the pneumatic system, but it is also quite expensive. You can also imrove the design, but you could need orage part, that are not very varied.

But finally, the only limit is your immagination !

I know it's not much but besides adding motors for drive and steering to my 'Mog the one other mod I made that I'd recommend is to move the battery box to the front of the load bed to help cure the dreaded lean caused by being in its original position.

Of course this rather depends on what you do with the load bed.

Above all enjoy the build. It's a truly awesome set.

Edited February 21, 201510 yr by grum64

First check out this thread: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1

There you can find all sorts of mods.

Then you implement Nicjasno's front axle which solves all the problems with the steering. You can find it here:

It's parts expensive, but a really nice build!

About pitfalls; be sure to turn the differentials the right way (one to the left and one to the right) and don't lock the drive train and the steering together by wrong placement of some clutch gear in the drive train. I've read enough posts about those two mistakes already.

Thankyou both. The outrigger placement of the batteries in std form, i take it once removed the vehicle would not stay level into the other tilt direction? Is there possibly a way off counterbalancing it on the other side or does the central battery placement to the tray maintain it level fully?

Would the airtank then fit where the battery was before perhaps or is there a better spot?

So far i've nothing planned for the tray, except to see if a 9390 will fit in it.

Again, thanks.

Thanks Thomol. Bloody good video! Going to download the instruction pdf he mentioned and have a look over it even though it's likely as you said a lot expensive to build.

The thread daunted me somewhat as i'm not planning any non std attachments or extra motorization and was going batty reading through. 70 something pages seemed a bit excessive and i stopped circa 10. Later on perhaps. Shall be careful with assembly re the diffs as i'll not rush into this. Will bebmy first studless and think the instructions if even way too thorough/simplified, as described, will be a godsend.

Little sad from my reading that the cab wheel does not steer, but am sure theres been a way found around that somewhere. Well, hopefully :)

You're welcome!

Going to download the instruction pdf he mentioned...

There's a part list at the end of the pdf which can come to good use, but for instructions I prefer the photo sequence found by the pdf. And don't forget to check his other videos, they're all equally good!

… does the central battery placement to the tray maintain it level fully?

My 8110 has been dismantled but from what I recall placing the battery box centrally at the front of the load bed did provide an adequate solution to the ‘Mogs (to me) irritating lopsided appearance.

Would the airtank then fit where the battery was before perhaps or is there a better spot?

As I didn’t add an airtank to my ‘Mog I’ve no idea if one will fit in the space left by resiting the battery box. It might but I’ll leave that to members far more talented than I to answer.

I know it's not exactly groundbreaking but I used the empty space to house a pole reverser so the air pump could be operated independently of the drive and steering motors. Some had fitted it behind the left front wheel but I couldn’t get it in so I fitted a base plate into bottom of the battery compartment and the pole reverser fitted in quite nicely. The space also allowed me to hide the wires including the extension lead needed to extend the air pump motor lead.

If I remember rightly, you could fit a second pole reverser in the vacated battery compartment and use it for lights on your 'Mog.

If you’re interested the pics are here:

http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=69470

It's up to you of course but I'd ignore the method I used to motorise the steering, other members have far better solutions.

Edited February 22, 201510 yr by grum64

Well, its here, together and being enjoyed. Not much to quibble about, and i'm working through what bothered me. Have a knob wheel ordered via a friend to add to it and then its pretty well finished.

I see what everyone was complaining about with the steering imprecision and might see what i can do but sorted the dummy steering wheel and fiddliness of the battery boxes switch. Bar that its not too bad as it came.

Has anyone got better mouse traps as far as the cab wheel fuctioning by any chance? Thanks for your time.

Probably been done to death already but any suggestions on small enhancements or pitfalls i should be wary of? Would like to build fairly as is but in searching have read of a glitch in the front panhard rod joint and the suggestion of an air tank.

Hi Glen,

See here:

http://www.bricksafe.com/files/afol1969/Instructions/UnimogX.pdf

Greetings

Alex

Probably been done to death already but any suggestions on small enhancements or pitfalls i should be wary of? Would like to build fairly as is but in searching have read of a glitch in the front panhard rod joint and the suggestion of an air tank.

Has anyone got better mouse traps as far as the cab wheel fuctioning by any chance? Thanks for your time.

here you can find a lot of stuff: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543&st=1700#entry1964626

Bricksafe-Folder: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Kumbbl/MODs/8110%20Unimog

Hi matey. Does the steering wheel turn the wheels or is it a slave function?

Thanks also Alex. Might try and replicate your tailgate if thats ok?

On another tact, is there a way to lock a synchro in one direction to allow the compressor to be unselected but leaving the PTO permanently engaged and just utilise the toggle for front (winch) or rear (turntable) to enact that particular function? It would be nice to be able to swivel the turntable without losing the supply of air from having to disengage the compressor.

Thanks also Alex. Might try and replicate your tailgate if thats ok?

On another tact, is there a way to lock a synchro in one direction to allow the compressor to be unselected but leaving the PTO permanently engaged and just utilise the toggle for front (winch) or rear (turntable) to enact that particular function? It would be nice to be able to swivel the turntable without losing the supply of air from having to disengage the compressor.

Hi Grosse Kind,

The Unimog is not my own construction, it is from markus53 (also in this formum). I've only made the instructions. As I've got the permission to publish them, you can build it - and modify it. And I think that the idea with the compressor modification should be possible.

Greetings

Alex

The last knob wheel arrived and is in. It and a partner replaced two twelve tooth spur gears and smoothed and strengthened it all up quite nicely, the steering can be safely operated from the cab now with pretty well only parts i already had.

Have copied the swinging tailgate and with the spares i owned added a few extra braces and mounts to keep the tray down and stiffened.

Sorted a few other niggles i had such as the firing order, regearing to speed up the crankshaft, remounting one of the rams, duplicating battery and pto switches to the opposite side, and a guide and retain trap with transport locks in the tray to hold the 9390 in place and ease removal and reinserting via the pneumatic arm.

Built a towball hitch and a cantilever folding trailer for it as well out of left over spares that carries a bottle of cider and folds up into a single rather than twin axle job when unloaded.

Four tiny items to still arrive for an accessory i'm constructing for it and i'm done.

Edited May 28, 20159 yr by Grosse Kind