Hello. I know the topic of motorizing switches have been covered many times on the forum, but I would like to share a proof of concept that I have been working on.

First, to give credit where it is due. Most of this design was inspired by others. Most notably the original PF mechanism and control ideas came from Duq and Benn. The ballasting inspiration came from numerous sources.

Basically I didn't like the PF motor and the switching mechanism sitting on top of the switch and on top of the layout. It was too big, even though the design I found was pretty streamlined. So I decided to try to put the motor under ground level and see what I could come up with.

I used the pieces that I had available while building this so there is a generous mixture of old and new dark gray and old and new light gray. Personally I don't really like mixing them, but for this test it is okay,

My solution is 100% LEGO. It uses a PF M motor and is controlled with a PF Switch. I don't have any pictures of the mechanism that is under ground. I have to tear it apart to get to that. My original plan was to make the PF motor accessible with a lift out plate, but that idea did not work out in this version.

The major down side is that the switch sits 4 bricks off of the baseplate. So do I have to raise my entire layout up?? That is going to be a LOT of bricks and plates. So that I am still trying to work out.

Also, in case you didn't notice, there are 3 different types of track in this POC. The switch and curve are PF, the short straight is 9v and the long straight is ME-Models. I just wanted to see how they all looked together with the ballast.

Here is a video (Sorry, not enough time to figure out how to embed video)

Any comments or ideas welcome!

Thanks,

John

Wow, that looks great, but yeah, that would be crazy to use that many bricks to raise up the entire layout. At some point or another I think I had seen non-lego switch motors mounted under the layout, but not pure lego like this. Perhaps you could raise your layout using wood risers or cut out holes in the table where the switches will go. You would probably want to add some sort of indicator to show which way the switch was pointing and which specific switch it is, e.g., a color coded lever or flag of some sort to convey both items. Presumably you would use long wires and perhaps a 9v train power supply for the final version? Oh, and do you have a manual override so that you can also throw them by hand?

Thanks.

I have thought about the wood risers. I did something similiar to that a few years ago that with a layout that was a little too ambitious and never got finished.

I think using bricks and plate to raise up everything is just asking for the layout to never be completed. I do like the possibilities it gives as far as terrain, but it is just too brick intensive.

I would color code the switches probably slmiliar to what you did in the pictures I saw of yours on brickshelf.

Since the axle is sticking up pretty far right now, that works as a manual override. I could put a longer axle in there if necessary.

You could probably use second hand Duplo to raise the layout. It might be less costly than all bricks and plates.

You could probably use second hand Duplo to raise the layout. It might be less costly than all bricks and plates.

It's been awhile since I've touched a Dubplo brick, but doesn't a standard 2x2 brick fit on a Duplo stud?

Yes, a 2x2 brick fits on a Duplo stud. I have done that many times to make hill, mountains, etc.

So the good thing about 4 bricks high is that it is 2 Duplo bricks. However plates don't fit on Duplo...

Hi,

I have thought about the same, and made this solution:

This would remove 2 of your brick levels (my track sits 2 bricks over the baseplate), thus cutting the extra pieces in half

It also allows you to use different mechanisms. In on of my points, I am using the Lego servo to operate a speer that pushes on the point.

My layout is all built up 5 brick. Lots and lots of diplo and large brick plates. Some areas have a grid of 2x2 and 2x4 like gmltc did.

https://flic.kr/s/aHsk8Bo2Fr

Edited March 16, 20159 yr by Chumley

I have done a similar thing with pneumatic controls. Pneumatics don't have to worry about hitting an end-stop or wearing out a clutch gear as a motor does.

The pneumatic controls are attached to the underside of the trackbed panel and this sits on mostly tiles and a few locating studs to enable servicing.

It works well with points and also the double crossover, which can be made to set both tracks straight at once.

The layout modules have various heights and slopes for a double-track looped-eight layout - easy enough to fit the trackbed panel at any height.

Module interconnections are flexible to allow enough hand space for attaching and detaching for transport.

Controls are brought out to a convenient place in the operating well of the layout.

You have the right idea with little to see on the surface.

Mark