As I am in the planning stages of my future Lego Model Railway, I was wondering what is the best method of building a Lego Model Railway.

Two methods come to mind

1. follow what Bricktrix (Carl Greatrix) has done with his Lego Model railway i.e. all the structures, track, trains, people are made out of Lego parts and the ballast is scenic ballast as used by model railway, and the scenic areas are done by traditional scenic materials.

2. Build a Lego Model railway 100% out of Lego Model Railway i.e. all the structures, track, trains, people, scenic areas, track ballast are made out of Lego parts.

So what do you think is the best method for building a Lego Model Railway.

Edited March 18, 20159 yr by jamesed_1971

Whatever makes you happy when you get time to screw around with it is the best method.

If you were going to keep everything 100% Lego I hope you are an independently wealthy individual and I would ask if you would like to adopt me as a son

Failing that, make yourself a couple 2 or 3 foot long dioramas and mess around with some techniques to see what you prefer.

I think both have their merits, it really is more up to what you're wanting out of it.

An all LEGO layout is going to be much more expensive and labor intensive, but IMO they are much more interesting to see when they're well done. I'm planning on turning my garage into a room dedicated to a big personal layout, and I know right now that it's going to be incredibly expensive. In my case, I'm alright with that as I'm planning on it being a very long term project. I'll start with the tables and track, then move on to basic scenery and then spend a lot of time refining it. Since I can't afford much at a time it will probably take many years to finish, but I'm looking to it as a long term hobby.

If you don't want to spend a lot of money all up front and aren't looking for a long term project, well, then it's really a matter of what you want. Traditional model railway techniques will end up overall a lot faster and cheaper, so you could have your layout done sooner and spend that money on rolling stock instead.

I'm four years down the line with a city layout with trains. It's relatively small but still incredibly expensive. I started with scenery from traditional mode railway materials but soon decided it looks much better IMO all LEGO built. My setup is now almost finished but it will continue to evolve after that to incorporate new sets and put in storage some old ones. One day, when the kids move out, I will use a much larger room in the house to become the LEGO room.

I must point out that for me the core interest is the city / landscape layout and that the trains are secondary. Maybe the other way round one would be more inclined to use non-LEGO materials.

Edited March 18, 20159 yr by TheLegGodt

Which do you think is best for you? It is your investment of your time and money. What are your goals? Realism? LEGO purity?

I bought a job lot of 9V track from someone who had used traditional scenery components. Each piece is now covered in various types of paints, glues and plasters, with powered sawdust here and there.

I'm sure it looked great on whatever layout it was originally planned for, but the track is now useless for any future layout and is only good for my behind-the-scenes/workbench usage.

For me, it has to be pure Lego, part of the reason being it is a *lot* easier to reconfigure and pack away than traditional model railways (which as the layout sits in a place we often use for LAN parties, is a must), but mostly because I prefer the ease of Lego building over the messier traditional model railway techniques and I prefer the consistency of using only one style of construction.

*However*, if I was planning an exhibition quality layout to be finished anytime this decade, I would probably go for at least some model railway scenery (although probably only ballast, grass and trees, not buildings). My layout is very much just some track for me to run my trains on, the scenery is just something to liven it up a bit, it really isn't intended to be a proper 'model railway'.

Depends on what you want to make

how big you want to go as layout

my layout is personally far too big and far too many

tracks ..

to make everything in Lego

I try to build as real as possible

with ballast

look on:

http://legotreinforu...3790.html#23790

Edited March 18, 20159 yr by patje

There was a piece of Lego literature years ago (probably '92ish mini catalog) that had a scene with a train using 1x1 grey plates as ballast, and I just remember thinking how awesome that looked. The track was raised up by 2 or 3 plates in order to give it enough depth to look realistic. Once the kids are old enough not to climb all over it, I plan to build a layout doing exactly that. I'll dig around and see if I can find that picture somewhere.

I decided to build the Lego Model railway using 100% Lego, I've already designed the station modules, and have built a new Lego steam locomotive and some rolling stock. it will be a long term project, the Lego model railway will be based on a local railway in Kent in UK, the railway is known as the East Kent Railway which currently runs from Shepherdswell nr Dover to Eythorn, a distance of 2.5 miles but it used to run to Wingham and Sandwich, there was a junction at Eastry, the line was over 10 miles long.

Link to my post about the station module - http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=106448

Link to my post about the Adams Radial EKR No 5 4 4-2 Steam Locomotive and SR 10 Tons Good Van - http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=106298

Link to my post about the LBSCR 48 Ft Bogie Coach / LBSCR 4 Wheel Coach - http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=106446

If I ever have the space to build hte layout I'm designing (you can find info about it here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=107070&hl= ), I think I'll try to replicate LEGO's artbox approach. That is: using bricks, traditional railway model techniques and printed play mats. A great example of this is the artbox of the Medieval Market Village.

Personally, I just play around with what features I want. For example, I know I'll want the layout to have a pair of grand curves, and a small shunting yard. I'll then make the larger components, like the curves and loops on either end, then I'll play around with the excess to form the secondary features, like a cargo dock, a passenger station, and other such structures. Then I'll situate them on the outside of the main features, like the grand curves and the shunting yards, replacing sections of straight track with switches to create these areas. So far its worked out good for my temporary carpet layouts, and it's a lot more lively than a typical rectangle. You can apply this same thought train to building a semi-permanent layout.

Carl does amazing work, but to me, if you're going to go through the trouble of building a highly detailed scale model out of LEGO, why would you cheapen it by using non LEGO with it? I only use non LEGO elenents in regard to function (I.e. wheels and track), and even then they must be LEGO compatible. Everything else must be LEGO. There is no challenge otherwise.

--Tony

Everything else must be LEGO. There is no challenge otherwise.

I agree.

Also, a set looks kind of dead on a non-lego underground, however attrative the other material may be (such as shown on the Castle).

Somehow, when sets are interconnected with lego roads, pavements, trees and other props, it all just comes alive and really works as a statement of artistry.

Carl's modelling expertise is such that he is limited by the LEGO medium. He regularly adds features that some of us would not have attempted! That lends itself more to a model railway for LEGO trains rather than a "LEGO railway".

My own aim has been to prove that an entire model railway can be made out of LEGO. I modify only things beyond the electrical connectors.

I have chosen to build to 1:38 scale - 1 stud to the foot. This makes rail vehicles quite large but I have had very few problems getting round curves.

The large size has raised challenges of motorization - mostly overcome - and some of real momentum and inertia, but that is more fun!

I have chosen a modular layout for ease of transport.

I have spent some time creating ballast schemes showing the range of real colouring in track ballast. A mosaic of greys old and new, black, tan and brown can all be used, with occasional green where weedkilling hasn't been up to scratch! This has included track features - AWS magnets and TPWS grids for UK railways, point heater cubicles and transformers.

I have blended mechanisms for point control into the scenery, some pneumatic, with servo motor control in the fiddle yard underneath.

It is also possible to ballast, cant and slope flexitrack.

Many proofs of concept demonstrate a set of technologies for use in a LEGO model railway. It just became such a big project to do a 16ft x 12ft one!

For the trains I have put function before aesthetics. Many of my trains are 11 years old now, so quite a few need a layer of tiles on top!

Have a look around in my Brickshelf trains section.

Mark

I don't think there's a best way, there's no good or bad. It's all down to personal taste. While I'm a great admirer of Carls models, for my own stuff I'm with Tony; the challenge is to see what can be realised within the constraints of the Lego medium. I too make exceptions for key elements that Lego does not provide, such as Big Bens drivers, Other Bens rods and now ME Models' wider track curves.

The Lego Model Railway will be 100 % Lego and will sit on custom baseboard unit I will get built.

The Lego model railway will a end to end, with a station at one end and a tunnel at the other end, which beyond the tunnel will be a storage yard for two trains, while the station is currently going to be the one shown in my post - http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=106448 .

The Lego Model railway will also have a engine shed and turntable to turn the steam locomotive, at the moment I am still designing the turntable module in LDD, to see what the Lego Model Railway will look like, see my post - http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=107170

Edited March 20, 20159 yr by jamesed_1971