I'm at a roadblock, which always happens when it comes to looks. Should I make the body in Technic pieces or sloped/tile pieces? The doors alone are 12 studs long x 9 studs high, not including the windows. If anyone has ideas, don't be afraid to share! Thank you.

Glenn

Technic pieces all the way. Start a basic body and then once you get the shape, you can add little improvements as you go.

Go with slopes and tiles. It worked well on my ATS, and it allows for some better shaping than simple technic beams/liftarms.

Progress report.

Wheelbase shortened 4 studs. Vehicle width narrowed 2 studs.

Only has 4wd.

Side is done. For now.

Nice work, but I think the side skirts should be a bit lower, about 3-4 studs?

Looking cool!

Good thing your making it in black, I doubt any other colour would look ok with those stacked beams.

Keep up the good work, this is gonna really look badass when its done!

I love that it is all black, well done.

tim

Nice progress so far :)

The taillights look a bit too small, but other than that it looks nice!

The taillights look a bit too small, but other than that it looks nice!

I agree with you. I changed the size to 1x2x3. Still don't like it but I'll wait til the truck is nearly done before changing it again.

Also raised the fender openings 1 stud. Looks much better now.

Bed of truck is done. Working on the left side doors and front fender, then will tackle the roof and hood.

More pics soon!

what about black 3x5 curved beams as frame for front lights?

I made the front bumper with those parts. I made a version of the grill, but could not find a way to connect the beams for a clean look across the front.

Well, it's 95% done. Still needs back seat, left rear tail light, and a few odds and ends.

As you can see in the last post, I have both XL motors connected. The middle differential splits the power to the front and back. There is a 3:1 reduction before it gets to the wheels. If I just used an xl motor to run the front axle, and one to drive the rear axle, would that eliminate the need for the power reduction? This truck is heavy, but super slow.

Thanks for the comments!

Glenn

nice progress

Awesome progress! Battery box is a bit awkward, but I like everything else.

Glenn, I admire and little bit envy You, because You have that unique skill to create beautiful design I want and I will be as good as You some day Nicely shaped design, I like it a lot

Thank you for the praise!

I'm going to put a cover on the bed to hide the battery box, I just haven't decided to make a Lego one or just use black construction paper.

That thing is huge and looks great. What really made me realize how heavy it might be was the interior shot where I saw the floor boards.

I can only imagine how much it actually weighs.

v/r

Andrew

Nice to see it almost done! If you connected each motor to an axle, I think it might run ok without any reduction other than the 20t to differential. Im not sure though, dont know how much that beast weighs.

Wow, this turned out great! However, I don't like the corners of the bonnet/hood. How about using long smooth panels (ID 64681) for the edges instead?

Wow that is a masterpiece! My only concern is that the front wheels might rub against the fenders while steering.

This looks really good and impressive! Like sm1995 suggested, I would add some curvature to the bonnet, if possible. Also, maybe fill up the engine bay a bit (although I guess it is already really heavy).

As for the battery box: if you can move it to behind the cab, you can hide it in a tool box, like the one below.

Well, it's 95% done. Still needs back seat, left rear tail light, and a few odds and ends.

As you can see in the last post, I have both XL motors connected. The middle differential splits the power to the front and back. There is a 3:1 reduction before it gets to the wheels. If I just used an xl motor to run the front axle, and one to drive the rear axle, would that eliminate the need for the power reduction? This truck is heavy, but super slow.

If you don't couple the XL motors, each axle gets half the torque, so I wouldn't do that.

Edited April 15, 20159 yr by Blakbird
: Please don't quote a bunch of images for no reason.

Wow, this turned out great! However, I don't like the corners of the bonnet/hood. How about using long smooth panels (ID 64681) for the edges instead?

I was going to use panels like on 9398 crawler, but could not get the front fender to look right, so removed it.

Wow that is a masterpiece! My only concern is that the front wheels might rub against the fenders while steering.

The front tires haven't rubbed yet, but the ball with axle connector keeps popping off the steering side.

This looks really good and impressive! Like sm1995 suggested, I would add some curvature to the bonnet, if possible. Also, maybe fill up the engine bay a bit (although I guess it is already really heavy).

As for the battery box: if you can move it to behind the cab, you can hide it in a tool box, like the one below.

I like the idea for the toolbox. Thank you. I'll think about what to add to the engine bay, but as you said this model is relatively heavy.

Nice to see it almost done! If you connected each motor to an axle, I think it might run ok without any reduction other than the 20t to differential. Im not sure though, dont know how much that beast weighs.

If you don't couple the XL motors, each axle gets half the torque, so I wouldn't do that.

I separated the motors and only have the reduction at the differential. Works great!

Thank you everyone for you're praises and ideas!

Glenn