Hey all!

After starting building Sheepos Shelby GT500, I remembered that I had just finished building an LPE-I3 which I thought would be perfect to implement into the upcoming car.

As I got closer to finish the chassis, I removed the fake engine and the PF-motors and replaced them with my I3. In order to achieve a nice compact, sequential gearbox which would fit good between the engine and the rear axle, I chose to use Sariels 4-speed gearbox but with a few modifications only to make it stiffer.

Here are a few shots of the WIP:

https://www.flickr.c.../132369452@N07/

Edited April 23, 20159 yr by MSc Shobaki

Hey all!

After starting building Sheepos Shelby GT500, I remembered that I had just finished building an LPE-I3 which I thought would be perfect to implement into the upcoming car.

As I got closer to finish the chassis, I removed the fake engine and the PF-motors and replaced them with my I3. In order to achieve a nice compact, sequential gearbox which would fit good between the engine and the rear axle, I chose to use Sariels 4-speed gearbox but with a few modifications only to make it stiffer.

Here are a few shots of the WIP:

https://www.flickr.c.../132369452@N07/

very cool!

WOW I'm a big fan of LPE as well as Sheepo! nice job!

Thanks! The car is currently undergoing a massive rebuild of the front suspension in order to carry the LPE due its weight and space. The rear suspension works good as of now, if I rebuild it: it will only be for better dampening.

For shock absorbers in the front suspension, I'm using big pneumatic cylinders which I took apart and then inserted a spring from the 9.5L shock absorber. This does not only make the suspension stiffer but also to give it a dampening effect like a real car. As I'm currently reworking the front suspension, it has now the most important properties:

Ackermann Steering

Some 5-10 degrees of caster angle (haven't measured)

Camber angle of 2-5 degrees (same as above)

Full Mac Pherson-setup

The plan is to try replace the modules of Sheepos car with my setups but to keep the frame as it is.

More pics coming soon!

I have posted this before but it applies yet again....... so I will post it again. i did the same thing with a 8110; added an LPE to it. It was marvelously (IMHO) successful. With so many people looking to increase the power of Technic MOCs, adding an LPE is one way to do it, at least with very large models. Great job on your mustang.....can't wait to see more pics. I would like to see this an upcoming trend. I know pnsumatic are rare..... but they are out there. I would especially like to see more crawlers, mudders, or off-road vehicles with pneumatic motors. I think it might apply especially well.

BTW.... I am also trying to increase the power of Sheepo's mustang, just went a different route. RC motor instead of pneumatic motor.... already have it done but trying to further modify things. initial tests are promising!

Edited April 14, 20159 yr by nerdsforprez

I have posted this before but it applies yet again....... so I will post it again. i did the same thing with a 8110; added an LPE to it. It was marvelously (IMHO) successful. With so many people looking to increase the power of Technic MOCs, adding an LPE is one way to do it, at least with very large models. Great job on your mustang.....can't wait to see more pics. I would like to see this an upcoming trend. I know pnsumatic are rare..... but they are out there. I would especially like to see more crawlers, mudders, or off-road vehicles with pneumatic motors. I think it might apply especially well.

BTW.... I am also trying to increase the power of Sheepo's mustang, just went a different route. RC motor instead of pneumatic motor.... already have it done but trying to further modify things. initial tests are promising!

That's great!! I've seen that video before and I really liked what I saw.

During my weekdays, I don't or rarely find time to build lego since I work full-time as a mechanical engineer. However, I should have some news by this Sunday.

Here is what should be delivered (hopefully) on Sunday by the latest:

*Complete rebuild of the front suspension featuring:

-Camber angle

-Caster angle

-Kingpin inclination

-Ackermann steering

-Anti-roll bar

Currently waiting for BL order, should arrive tomorrow or on the 16th.

Hey all!

After starting building Sheepos Shelby GT500, I remembered that I had just finished building an LPE-I3 which I thought would be perfect to implement into the upcoming car.

As I got closer to finish the chassis, I removed the fake engine and the PF-motors and replaced them with my I3. In order to achieve a nice compact, sequential gearbox which would fit good between the engine and the rear axle, I chose to use Sariels 4-speed gearbox but with a few modifications only to make it stiffer.

that is very nice effort, but V8 lpe would be right choice imho

nice use of 8448 wheels

Here are a few shots of the WIP:

https://www.flickr.c.../132369452@N07/

that is very nice effort, but V8 lpe would be right choice imho

nice use of 8448 wheels (hope now is in correct place)

that is very nice effort, but V8 lpe would be right choice imho

nice use of 8448 wheels (hope now is in correct place)

That is indeed true, BUT, unfortunately the scale of Sheepos car is not suitable for a V8 engine.

More importantly, the 8448 wheels are too small for a V8 engine

What do you think, should I build a new Ford Shelby GT featuring a V8 engine or do you want me to build a BMW M3 with V8 or I-3?

The choice is yours!

Really really love this combination nice work dude , loo foreword to the end result .

That is indeed true, BUT, unfortunately the scale of Sheepos car is not suitable for a V8 engine.

More importantly, the 8448 wheels are too small for a V8 engine

What do you think, should I build a new Ford Shelby GT featuring a V8 engine or do you want me to build a BMW M3 with V8 or I-3?

The choice is yours!

Perhaps 8448 wheels are more suitable for BMW with i3 from design point of view...but if this one could help:

http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=365696

(my version long time ago because I also have only 3 cylinder LPE...)

@I_Igor:

That car looked so nice. Only by judging the images, I can point out a stiff chassis. Long time ago, I used to like to build with studded parts due to their stiffness and multifunctional mounting possibilities. However, since I'm looking for a bigger design challenge, I'm going studless as long as I can until I need studded parts for the sake of higher stiffness and bracing.

As for the engine, I have my LPE I-3 assembled and it runs smooth and revs all nicely like it should. If I change my mind later on and decide to go for V8, I still have 10 cylinders left to build it with without the need of taking the I-3 apart.

@I_Igor:

That car looked so nice. Only by judging the images, I can point out a stiff chassis. Long time ago, I used to like to build with studded parts due to their stiffness and multifunctional mounting possibilities. However, since I'm looking for a bigger design challenge, I'm going studless as long as I can until I need studded parts for the sake of higher stiffness and bracing.

As for the engine, I have my LPE I-3 assembled and it runs smooth and revs all nicely like it should. If I change my mind later on and decide to go for V8, I still have 10 cylinders left to build it with without the need of taking the I-3 apart.

thanks 4 your compliment, studless is what I was thinking about (using http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=64179 and/or http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=64178 or even http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=64782) but currently time is my biggest enemy so few years ago I put 67 Mustang into bag to prevent dust collections on it. your decision about future build of V-8 LPE is proper thinking, at least I'll do the same thing (somewhere in time). Major problem for me to use LPE in-line 3 is how to make transverse transmission.

looking forward to see your MOC

What transmission are you looking for? Are we talking about a manual, sequential or automatic?

My main problem with building a car with transversally mounted inline-3 and transmission is the width of the car, it becomes too large or it will need an engine space of 15 studs. We'll see how it goes

What transmission are you looking for? Are we talking about a manual, sequential or automatic?

My main problem with building a car with transversally mounted inline-3 and transmission is the width of the car, it becomes too large or it will need an engine space of 15 studs. We'll see how it goes

6speed+reverse manual transmission - it is possible with some 120mm tires and flex axle system, but I could be wrong...

I would say that the current clutch gearboxes, the ones from 8880, 8448 etc. are not really reliable as they do not handle torque very well. I believe that an automatic transmission without clutches would be the best choice. I am currently optimizing my auto CVT transmission to be coupled with my I-3. If it becomes a success, I will share BI for it.

As of now, I'm almost done with the front axle (pics on Sunday), I just need to figure out how to connect the anti-roll bar to the struts

I would say that the current clutch gearboxes, the ones from 8880, 8448 etc. are not really reliable as they do not handle torque very well. I believe that an automatic transmission without clutches would be the best choice. I am currently optimizing my auto CVT transmission to be coupled with my I-3. If it becomes a success, I will share BI for it.

As of now, I'm almost done with the front axle (pics on Sunday), I just need to figure out how to connect the anti-roll bar to the struts

automatic with 6 gears sounds nice, but CVT would be interesting for my tractors. I had one prototype that I did not publish due to lack of lime liftarms to complete wftrac 8 x 8, but it is another story

which shock absorber you plan to use?

That would indeed be cool. My CVT is sturdy as hell and is almost impossible to stop when powered with an XL-motor... Just imagine the power when coupled with the I-3 :D

For shock absorbers, I'm using the big pneumatic cylinders with 9.5L shock absorber springs (hard type) inserted. See my second post.

That would indeed be cool. My CVT is sturdy as hell and is almost impossible to stop when powered with an XL-motor... Just imagine the power when coupled with the I-3 :D

For shock absorbers, I'm using the big pneumatic cylinders with 9.5L shock absorber springs (hard type) inserted. See my second post.

for that kind of suspension I think best solution is to copy what Ales (nicjasno.com) made with his 2005 mustang (only without cutting or any kind of modifying parts)

The only thing I do basically is taking the cylinder apart as well as the 9.5L shock absorber. Then I insert the spring into the cylinder and then assemble back the piston. I wouldn't call this a modification :D

The only thing I do basically is taking the cylinder apart as well as the 9.5L shock absorber. Then I insert the spring into the cylinder and then assemble back the piston. I wouldn't call this a modification :D

I agree that is no modification. My problem with 500 GT was how to make front unequal A-arms (upper is smaller than lower) and to make them work with shock absorber from 8420 motorbike

I had one idea on how to do something that represents what you are seeking. Check my flickr account, I just uploaded some pics..

PS, they don't have anything to do with my current project!

If I'm not mistaken, the shock absorber from that motorbike was not meant to be used as a shock absorber, but to be set in two positions.. Like a ballpoint pen

I had one idea on how to do something that represents what you are seeking. Check my flickr account, I just uploaded some pics..

PS, they don't have anything to do with my current project!

If I'm not mistaken, the shock absorber from that motorbike was not meant to be used as a shock absorber, but to be set in two positions.. Like a ballpoint pen

well I see rear suspension, or do I look at wrong thing. link please

No that's a front suspension with drive :) as you turn the steering wheel, the upper links pivot around the balls. Sort of an a-arm design but uses two ball joints

Edited April 20, 20159 yr by MSc Shobaki

No that's a front suspension with drive :) as you turn the steering wheel, the upper links pivot around the balls. Sort of an a-arm design but uses two ball joints

http://flic.kr/p/rWrJ6D

I understand, but for my model it is to week, perhaps suspension parts from snowmobile will be useful. I did not know that Mustang had 4wd?! thanks anyway

Like I said before, the suspension did not have anything to do with my current project.

I have some designs for bigger cars of scale 1:8 or 1:7