Reza Posted November 16, 2022 Posted November 16, 2022 22 hours ago, Vilhelm22 said: Welcome to the Train Tech @Reza! I see you’ve been around quite a while but I don’t remember seeing you here. Thanks! I am always pleased for being welcomed, even after few years on this forum :-) 22 hours ago, Vilhelm22 said: Simple answer: no. This is a discussion platform, rather than a buying and selling site - there are other places online where that can be done (Facebook may be a good starter, and of course Bricklink). Somebody might respond to this one specific message and say yes please, but this is not really the purpose of the site. I am a established seller on Bricklink (sellers on bricklink are not allowed to sell non-Lego items such as this). I also listed them on Ebay (will be more expensive for buyers because of Ebay higher fees). and I will try facebook. I am not trying to just make money here. I used this thread many times. At that time, nobody sold custom pick-ups otherwise I would love to buy them. I believe many 12v fans would love to know they can buy new replica pick-ups and replace the worn-out ones they have when they open their motors using this thread. So I wanted to comment right here. So as far as it is not against the rules, why not? 22 hours ago, Vilhelm22 said: A second bit of info you may want to take note of - nobody has responded to this thread in 3 years, and your comment is only fairly relevant. A question like this should probably be a new thread anyway. Generally, you shouldn’t bring up old threads like this as things may well have changed completely since then. @Andromeda hasn’t been online since July 1st, so it won’t be that useful there. Anyway, nice to see you in the Train Tech and I hope to see more of you round here! Best, @Vilhelm22 If you check the messages, people came and commented on this thread once every few years. This is because this thread is very helpful and nothing change about it over time. After my response, another fellow on Eurobrick messaged me this: "Thanks for bumping that thread on Eurobricks, that's a great tutorial on clean replacement job." I have been reading some threads now and then for the last few years. But I don't comment when I don't have anything to say :-) Thanks Vilhelm, @Reza Quote
Vilhelm22 Posted November 16, 2022 Posted November 16, 2022 (edited) @Reza Sorry :( I genuinely really didn’t want to offend you and only thought I might be helping. I mean this genuinely - I would never intentionally insult anyone on this forum or anywhere online. Please don’t take any serious offence to this as I only wanted to be useful and have made a fool of myself. Signing off with apologies, Vilhelm22 P.S. if that sounds at all sarcastic it’s not - I really do mean all of it! Edited November 23, 2022 by Vilhelm22 Quote
Reza Posted November 17, 2022 Posted November 17, 2022 57 minutes ago, Vilhelm22 said: @Reza Sorry :( I genuinely really didn’t want to offend you and only thought I might be helping. I mean this genuinely - I would never intentionally insult anyone on this forum or anywhere online. Please don’t take any serious offence to this as I only wanted to be useful and have made a fool of myself. Signing off with apologies, Vilhelm22 P.S. if that sounds at all sarcastic it’s not - I really do mean all of it! I don’t wanna get banned :( You did not mean any offense and I was not offended neither. Indeed your message was friendly and helpful and you tried to help. I appreciate this. :-) (many people read my message and did not comment) For admins: I don't know the rules but, please do not ban him :-) Thanks, @Reza Quote
Ncore Posted January 1, 2023 Posted January 1, 2023 After practising with a black motor I received pre-opened from a friend, I dared open my 7750 motor. Confined to home as I was (because of flu), I used a very poor razor (didn't have a better one available), but apparently it was enough. The nail in the plug hole was a good advice - I used a flat-ended screw though. First some razor action, then slight twisting of the axle (very gently), then some screw hammering on one hole (yes, I know how it sounds), then some more gentle twisting, and I got a teeny tiny promise on the hammered corner. So some more hammering on the other hole, a little bit more twisting, and one end came slightly loose. Then just patiently and carefully used a small flat screwdriver to peel it off. 40 years old glue wasn't a match. Since I had found out alcohol was not really all that useful cleaning pickups this old (previously I used over an hour and a half to clean TWO pickups enough that they would conduct a little bit electricity, ie. move the motor), I just took the brutal approach and used a flat small screwdriver horizontally (ie. on its side) to carve out the oxidised material from the top of the pickups (on both sides - both outside and on the inside of the motor side). Boy, was there plenty of it before at least some partly shining surface came into view... In fact already after handling two pickups I had to wash my hands. They were so black from the stuff. Once I started putting the engine together I noticed something weird... It seems the "A" and "B" side markings on the bottom of the motor were reversed. That A clearly would not fit that side. So I ignored them. Anyone else noticed this? Not typical for German engineers to make mistakes like this... I accidentally broke the small clip on the side, at the place where the third wheel clips in (compare pictures 1 and 2). I figured it wouldn't matter, but after testing the motor after putting it back together and lubricating it, I realized without that support the engine was shaking and making a terrible noise all the time. So I glued the clip back together with the bottom and hope it holds once it dries up, and then I'll continue the project (final testing and closing the case). Quote
Reker1000000 Posted January 2, 2023 Posted January 2, 2023 @Ncore excellent addition to the thread. Yes, the A and B blocks are reversed, I think this is only for type 1 motors because I've opened a type 2 and the blocks are correct. They changed the metal blocks' design slightly for types 2, 3, and 4 motors because they needed to accommodate the middle pin in the cable holes. Yep, the support clip is necessary for the motor to stay in place. Also, you can replace the pickups with ones from the 70s in those modified 2x4 bricks (bb0053/bb0053b on Bricklink). I think Reza has replacement pickups made from machined brass as well on eBay of Canada. Altering the pickups with a screwdriver will probably lead to more serious wear in the future... I had a motor that when I recieved it only had a small chip in one contact, but with normal use it's worn to a significant groove that will eventually no longer pick up electricity and I'll have to open the motor to replace the pickups. Quote
Ncore Posted June 21, 2023 Posted June 21, 2023 A long due addition: Yes, the glue held the support clip. It works now, and no noise. This time I lubricated the motor with lithium grease... and oh boy, it worked well. I opened another black motor and lubricated it the same way, but now I have a problem: The lubrication is too good. I have three separate loops on my track, ie. I can drive three trains at the same time. My 7750 has four small passenger wagons, an the other thoroughly maintained motor is on my 7725. But those two on track and transformer at full power... and they will derail at corners. Either one of them alone and they will derail at the first corner. I have to run three trains or tone down the power. Well, I guess that's a positive problem... Quote
Feuer Zug Posted June 22, 2023 Posted June 22, 2023 Add more wagons to the consist or find a few of the ancient boat weight pieces and hide those internally. That should help with the speed / power "problem". Quote
HauntedHouse Posted November 11, 2023 Posted November 11, 2023 (edited) On 1/1/2023 at 1:38 AM, Ncore said: Once I started putting the engine together I noticed something weird... It seems the "A" and "B" side markings on the bottom of the motor were reversed. That A clearly would not fit that side. So I ignored them. Anyone else noticed this? Not typical for German engineers to make mistakes like this... @Ncore, I found the same in my red type I motor. I seems that in the original casting moulds A and B were reversed - but it's not known if the letters on plastic housing or metal parts are correct. For type II motors, this has been corrected. There is a rectangular elevation around the letters A and B, which indicates an insert has been created for the original casting mould. And creating an insert for a plastic die casting mould must have been the cheaper option than modifying the casting mould for the metal parts.. I found another interesting deviation: My red type I motor has metal cogs on the wheel shafts. Anyone seen this as well? Perhaps it is linked to the production date. My red type I motor shows date code 16 0 on the bottom side. FYI, @Reza started a thread on date codes for bb0012vx motors. Edited November 11, 2023 by HauntedHouse Quote
frazampo Posted January 12, 2024 Posted January 12, 2024 Hi everyone, thanks a lot for this very useful thread! I would like to ask a question. I have a motor that is perfectly functioning, but one of the main wheels (on the right in the image) recently broke down. The plastic element in the middle broke. I have the broken wheel and the metal pin. Following the suggestion of @Bloodwave above, I bought a new wheel (on the left in the image) which is supposed to be a middle-type wheel. This wheel has a metal pin too. I would like now to remove the plastic element in the middle of the wheel so I can mount it on the motor. I tried pulling it with a screwdriver or some pliers, but I can't. Any suggestion? Thank you very much! Quote
frazampo Posted January 12, 2024 Posted January 12, 2024 I eventually managed to do it! Thanks a lot! Quote
hsousa Posted January 13, 2024 Posted January 13, 2024 I envy you guys. I really do wish to have the time for tinkering with LEGO, but I don't. Good job @frazampo Quote
GunnersGarrison Posted January 24, 2024 Posted January 24, 2024 (edited) . Edited December 28, 2024 by GunnersGarrison Quote
Dolores7 Posted January 11 Posted January 11 Hi everyone! I would be interested to know if anyone here has any experience with these replacement gears: https://www.lokdoktor.shop/p/schneckenzahnrad-2-gaengig-fuer-lego-12v-antrieb Are they easy to fit, durability functionality? Thanks for tips! Quote
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