Lobot Posted October 5, 2015 Posted October 5, 2015 Or a wall! (Recognize this falcon, Lobot?) Thanks Regimus, I'm glad that it went to a good home All those hours sourcing shiny new parts weren't wasted! I'm almost tempted to build another one this winter.....! Quote
rahservizi Posted October 5, 2015 Posted October 5, 2015 Or a wall! (Recognize this falcon, Lobot?) Did you used a monitor bracket? Quote
Regimus Posted October 5, 2015 Posted October 5, 2015 Props to everyone bricklinking 10179. I've thought about doing some smaller UCS sets, I always end up far too impatient. My mind melts at the thought of keeping track of all those parts. I'm almost tempted to build another one this winter.....! What would that be? Your third? Fourth? Now if you were to do a snowspeeder, you never know who might be interested in it Quote
Soul Posted October 8, 2015 Author Posted October 8, 2015 Mandibles plated underneath and filled in with detail. Also done the underneath of the two airlocks. That ramp that hinged down from one side is awesome I'm halfway through the manual now. Loving it so far! Quote
Kristof Posted October 8, 2015 Posted October 8, 2015 Hey Soul. I notice there are quite a few brick in old light grany in your build - is that intentional or have you ordered them to save some cash? Also (maybe you said it before but I can't find it), have you aimed for new parts mostly? Quote
Soul Posted October 8, 2015 Author Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) The old grey bits were the ones I could find in my box of lego from when I was a kid. Used them to save money, and so there was a bit of my childhood in the Falcon. I was considering using them on top to make the Falcon look more 'battered' but decided I didn't really have enough for the effect so am mainly using them underneath or inside where possible. Same with some of the Technics parts - I had a load from when I was young, like the 1x16 bricks that I've used for the main frame. I just ordered DBG where they'd show in the mandibles. When choosing new or used I tended to just go for what used to save money, but some bits are new if they were hard to find or if I got them from Lego themselves. Edited October 8, 2015 by Soul Quote
Kristof Posted October 8, 2015 Posted October 8, 2015 I see, and what are your feelings about the used parts from BL? Any excessive wear? I'm asking because I have only purchased new parts so far - a bit in fear of buying used :D Quote
Soul Posted October 8, 2015 Author Posted October 8, 2015 Generally the used parts have been pretty good. Normally the BL store says if the parts are worn. Most I'd say were indistinguishable from new at anything other than a close inspection. Quote
Hold0511 Posted October 8, 2015 Posted October 8, 2015 I tend to go used for my Rebs / non imperial ships light or dark grey and white pieces, and stick to new pieces for anything imperial - I've had some real variations in colour on used greys and whites, especially when the pieces are a lot older - but it works for that 'used' / 'worn' look well. Quote
Soul Posted October 12, 2015 Author Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) Lots of progress over the weekend (will get some pics up later) and I've now started the various plating sections for the top of the hull. I just did the one that is on the rear quarter, that has a single black radar dish on it, and I was surprised that it is only held in place by one axle going into a technic 'hole'. Is that right??? The whole plate moves around freely and it feels quite in contrast to the rest of the build so far, which is very solid. Also my sticker for the main dish arrived and I'm really disappointed. The print quality isn't very good and it has bubbles that just won't go away What other dish options do I have? I'm wondering about doing that rectangular TFA one now..... Edited October 12, 2015 by Soul Quote
Wonderpants Posted October 12, 2015 Posted October 12, 2015 Save up for the real dish or try a brick built version like the one here? http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=107215&st=25 Quote
H_Solo Posted October 12, 2015 Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) Yes, that's correct... all the top plates of the main hull are more or less just layed on - held only by small clips or axles. No problem with a standing model, but might get tricky if you're planning on hanging it on the wall vertically. I did a brickbuild spoke for the radar dish with robot arms... looks really nice imho and adds a lot of detail. (see link in the posting above mine ;-)) Edited October 12, 2015 by H_Solo Quote
Kristof Posted October 12, 2015 Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) This is what I came up with as for brick built solution Modified plate with octagonal frame and screwdrivers are flat silver. Everything should be quite affordable. EDIT: Hm, that version shared above is probably better :) This is really just flesh out Edited October 12, 2015 by krisandkris12 Quote
Soul Posted October 12, 2015 Author Posted October 12, 2015 Hmmm I do like that H_Solo. What pieces did you need to do it exactly? I thought it was you who did the TFA dish, but my memory could be off Quote
ScottishDave Posted October 12, 2015 Posted October 12, 2015 The TFA dish was me: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=106483 I also tried a brick built dish: Finally, I have a vector dish sticker design that I can send you in any resolution you desire. You will have to print it out and apply it yourself. Quote
Soul Posted October 12, 2015 Author Posted October 12, 2015 Ahh yes sorry ScottishDave I think I might have a go at that then. Will build the 'normal' version since I've got the bits and to tide me over, but next time I'm bricklinking I think I'll get parts for yours. Although if H_Solos one doesn't require many parts might get those too Quote
H_Solo Posted October 12, 2015 Posted October 12, 2015 Thats where I got the idea and a lot of inspiration for further mods - ScottishDave ist the man! Quote
ScottishDave Posted October 12, 2015 Posted October 12, 2015 Thats where I got the idea and a lot of inspiration for further mods - ScottishDave ist the man! Thanks, H_Solo . Quote
Soul Posted October 12, 2015 Author Posted October 12, 2015 Nearly there now I'm not sure if the top section is correct though. There's quite a big gap around the front half of it compared to where it meets the rear plates? Quote
Soul Posted October 12, 2015 Author Posted October 12, 2015 The other thing I notice is the 'flaps' above and below the engine represented using the little levers look a bit 'naff' I guess. I wonder if there's a better way to do it. God I'm thinking about alterations already and I've not even finished yet Quote
rahservizi Posted October 12, 2015 Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) The other thing I notice is the 'flaps' above and below the engine represented using the little levers look a bit 'naff' I guess. I wonder if there's a better way to do it. Yes there is a better way to do it, but it involves a lot of rear modifications. https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/11988796@N02/sets/72157639941440604/ Edited October 12, 2015 by rahservizi Quote
ScottishDave Posted October 13, 2015 Posted October 13, 2015 That would be me again. I replaced the flaps when i realised that the 4x9 and 4x8 plates, alternated, had a near-perfect curve. Then I found that the original hull panels didn't fit. Then I gradually realised that the entire rear upper hull would have to be reworked... The thread is over here. Just in case you are seriously contemplating this one, I have added the LXF file for the engine and rear upper hull modifications to the first post: along with all the other LXF files I have generated along the way. Quote
Soul Posted October 13, 2015 Author Posted October 13, 2015 Thanks Dave. So am I right in thinking that to do the flaps I should first do the curved engine mods? Quote
ScottishDave Posted October 13, 2015 Posted October 13, 2015 It is worth building my engine mod if you want to build the flaps. Each top flap is attached by four studs directly to the top of the modded engine. Each bottom flap is attached base-to-base using two "plate with clip light"s on their side, and to the flaps on either side using hinge plates. However, you can probably build each set of flaps seperately, if you join them together with hinge plates and then find a way to secure them to the existing engines. Some experimentation will be required. If you do create the flaps, you will have to modify the surrounding hull plates, either using my design or rolling your own. Quote
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