[MOC] [WIP] The Command of the AT-AT

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

I admire how you got rid of the slopes 75 2x2x3 double convex. It opens new possibilities for sturdier ankle joints. Great job! (And I agree that paint is a lesser sin than glue ;) . )

Thanks dmaclego! It sure will relieve probable issues with the leg splintering from the ankle when assembling, and now I am endeavoring to implement the same structure through the shoulders (while still having that nice taper like what you have going for yours ;).

I appreciate that you have accepted my decision to paint those parts, but I assure that those will be the only parts. Though unless I run into the incidence where it does come in LBG or LG, yet is ultra rare (no one would no the difference ).

[anothergol]

It appears to exist in tan, though, and if you went for a global grey/tan scheme for a battle-worn look, it could work. In fact, I think it would be less distracting than the blue you went for on the panels, which stands out too much IMHO. You could also use white & pretend it's snow :)

[atlas]

I'm digging this new ankle. Am I right in saying that the ankle moves by just sliding the foot through?

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

It appears to exist in tan, though, and if you went for a global grey/tan scheme for a battle-worn look, it could work. In fact, I think it would be less distracting than the blue you went for on the panels, which stands out too much IMHO. You could also use white & pretend it's snow :)

Though I would think it will be far from random as in a weathered down look, since all of them will be completely the same color (I don't think I could live with that much differentiating color not matching properly with the primary color). I got the sand blue stripe from the studio model on modelersmagic, because it is something haven't seen anyone do, yet it is too vibrant compared to the source. I did want to attempt to wash out the color by leaving it in the sun and the outside conditions, but I was too impatient . Nevertheless, I purpose to make right side of the AT-AT completely LBG, and as for the left side, the sand blue stripe can be interchange.

[anothergol]

I believe that the correct color for that panel would be LBG, and then all the rest should be old gray.. but that's not really something you can do. Perhaps just inverting that scheme would work as well, only that panel in old gray.

(slight misalignments like in stud-inverted places can too produce different shades)

Painting is certainly less of a sin, as Lego itself sometimes provides plain stickers that are purely there to change the color of part of a tile. However it's the same deal as with glue, IMHO if you do it once, you can do it for any other problem part, it won't make any difference.

Edited January 7, 2016 by anothergol

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

I believe that the correct color for that panel would be LBG, and then all the rest should be old gray.. but that's not really something you can do. Perhaps just inverting that scheme would work as well, only that panel in old gray.

(slight misalignments like in stud-inverted places can too produce different shades)

Painting is certainly less of a sin, as Lego itself sometimes provides plain stickers that are purely there to change the color of part of a tile. However it's the same deal as with glue, IMHO if you do it once, you can do it for any other problem part, it won't make any difference.

Early on I actually thought about having the primary color light grey and only that panel LBG, but since several of the parts are rather modern, doing that was not ideal. I also did swapping out the sand blue with light grey.

Does it help to say that those will be the only ones I would paint and nothing more?

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

I'm digging this new ankle. Am I right in saying that the ankle moves by just sliding the foot through?

Indeed it does atlas, like that of an actual AT-AT (though minus being actually connected)—thank you!

[Kristof]

I say go for that blue stripe :) I like it. By the way with this pace, it seems you have plenty of time letting it fade out on the sun :D

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

I guess I should left it outside all the while after all

Well I can always make two more AT-ATs to display the other variants all at once

[anothergol]

because it is something haven't seen anyone do, yet it is too vibrant compared to the source.

I have seen that blueish panel on some reference pics btw, but is it really to be seen anywhere in the movie?

[dmaclego]

I have seen that blueish panel on some reference pics btw, but is it really to be seen anywhere in the movie?

I don't remember seeing it. This may be another case of the crucial dilemma: do we build models of machines we know from movies, or models of models used in movies :) . Because it is a well known fact that special effects techniques (namely: blue screen technique) tend to change colors of the models. That's why the Millennium Falcon seems gray in the movie, while the model used for filming was in fact off-white or light tan.

[anothergol]

Yes but it's not so much about the color itself than the contrast, that specific panel standing out.

I gathered pictures from actual movie props, as I was making a micro-scale one, & in the ones that I found (ranging from cartboard cutout for distant ones to detailed models), the weathering & color is pretty much uniform.

edit: ah, this one apparently

https://www.flickr.c...dbush/489039488

..but I'm not seeing it in the movie. In fact, I see one with one of the panels in a different shades, but it's not the same panel :)

(maybe on Endor? If anyone knows where one is visible)

Edited January 8, 2016 by anothergol

[La Chupacabra]

Endor scene was at night

I have seen that blueish panel on some reference pics btw, but is it really to be seen anywhere in the movie?

Neither did I

Edited January 8, 2016 by La Chupacabra

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

I have seen that blueish panel on some reference pics btw, but is it really to be seen anywhere in the movie?

I don't remember seeing it. This may be another case of the crucial dilemma: do we build models of machines we know from movies, or models of models used in movies :) . Because it is a well known fact that special effects techniques (namely: blue screen technique) tend to change colors of the models. That's why the Millennium Falcon seems gray in the movie, while the model used for filming was in fact off-white or light tan.

Neither did I

Well, here are a couple of references from the movie (it is not as vivid as sand blue but it can be faintly seen on the third rectangle)

And here is a reference from a replica (its appearance more of in a newer state) of that studio model that AT-AT MOCers tend to frequent:

As far as I am concern the pale blue stripe is from a studio model, so that is a solid point that it would/could exist

Edited January 8, 2016 by LiLmeFromDaFuture

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

Ever since I have seen dmaclego's AT-AT, the detail that impressed me most (besides the mechanisms) was how he represented the taper that leads up to the upper part of the legs—I believe I have not seen that ever before on other larger scaled MOCs. Well, maybe its because the actual detail is not that exaggerated as he portrays it, but I am actually fond of how exaggerated he made it. Call me crazy , but that is one of the details I actually liked on the AT-AT walkers featured in "Rebels" (though I still don't like the show all that much).

Rebels AT-AT walker by Michael, on Flickr

That brings me to my next update that I ask of you to weigh your opinion on. Well firstly, I finally started on designing the upper part of the legs—yes!. If you haven't notice the lack of its progress, I have been dreading doing this part for quite a bit, because I wanted it to be sturdy yet far from being bland, and I also desired for it to taper. My frustrations with acquiring those specifications was finding a way to do it without forgoing the structure I aspire to have and for the most part, already have emplaced, so I couldn't do it exactly like dmaclego—even if I wanted to copy him.

The next set of difficulties to design upper part of the legs came about as to find what part that could represent the shallow taper alternatively of using hinge plates, because with the structure I have in place I could not as efficiently cover up the hinge plates without making it thicker and ruining the aspect of the leg. Literally the only part that would be appropriate for the job as being long with a shallow slope is part 85970 (), because the only other similar part 4515 () is obliviously not an option. Despite the first part mentioned being curved, I decided to progress the design with it, and eventually, with the use of a couple hinge plates, the taper appears linear than it is actually. Now it brings me to finally ask what version of the leg do you find is more proportioned? The one that is 50 studs tall (on the left) or the one that is 51 studs tall (on the right)?

Edited January 9, 2016 by LiLmeFromDaFuture

[phaelon]

I prefer the look of the 51 on the right, because it closes the gap formed in the socket at the top. Also, it elongates the upper leg portion just enough to make it look more anatomically correct.

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

I prefer the look of the 51 on the right, because it closes the gap formed in the socket at the top. Also, it elongates the upper leg portion just enough to make it look more anatomically correct.

Thanks phaelon for your opinion! Both legs are incomplete at the moment and their levels of incompleteness differs from each other. Why I like the one on the right is because the grille tile on the sides extends to the end of the upper leg portion unlike the leg on the left. However I felt it was too long by a stud, but I like to hear others perspectives on this.

[La Chupacabra]

I was wondering the same today... Right leg is better.

I noticed that you have changed foot design to be more round.

Edited January 8, 2016 by La Chupacabra

[Kristof]

I guess that gap is just missing plates - nothing permanent. Anyway, I think it's a bit expandable question for two reasons. Furst, 2% difference won't really affect the appearence, second it's quite hard to eyball the proportions so the best would be direct compare with studio model legs (measuring distances and check lowe/upper part ratios). Also that missing shoulder joint makes the correct guess even harder.

The only difference I see is that different bar length detail, due to which I'd go for longer version, but really... no big deal here.

Otherwise I really like the shape and taper. Well done!

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

I was wondering the same today... Right leg is better.

I noticed that you have changed foot design to be more round.

Actually I haven't alter the design of the foot for a while?

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

I guess that gap is just missing plates - nothing permanent. Anyway, I think it's a bit expandable question for two reasons. Furst, 2% difference won't really affect the appearence, second it's quite hard to eyball the proportions so the best would be direct compare with studio model legs (measuring distances and check lowe/upper part ratios). Also that missing shoulder joint makes the correct guess even harder.

The only difference I see is that different bar length detail, due to which I'd go for longer version, but really... no big deal here.

Otherwise I really like the shape and taper. Well done!

Apologies, I was in a rush, but I will provide some more views with those gaps filled in.

Back and forth, I have been determining the proportions of each leg section on the studio model with my ruler across the screen, but I could not decide which version to use, because the upper leg portion is slightly longer than the lower leg (the left leg), but with the version on the right, I can get the grille tiles all the way to the end, but I felt it was slightly elongated.

So I wanted to include the perspective of others to judge which is more proportioned.

With an overall view of the legs LDD is of no help displaying the details, because of how tall they are, but I believe it will be more easier to see a significant difference with a view from the back.

Still haven't manage to get Bluerender or POV Converter to work on my Mac

[phaelon]

Looking at the rendered models and screenshots, it looks like the upper leg is 55% - 60% of the total leg height. The knee is not centered on the leg, but slightly lower. To my eye that makes me think the right leg is more accurate.

I think the elongation issue is negligible if your highest priority is detail. The grille tile continuity will likely trump in appearance over an extra stud in height. But you're right, in order to get a good opinion of the leg height overall, we would need to see it against the rest of the model for a better sense of scale.

Edited January 8, 2016 by phaelon

[anothergol]

Looking at models & blueprints, I see both in them. I don't think it really matters anyway, only someone who has built one will ever know/notice.

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

Well in case anyone was interested I updated the photos with more views, though I am going to progress with the leg on the right sid, since the grille detail is continuous and the bar detailed can be varied without the use of shorter, cut rigid hoses.

[La Chupacabra]

Great job ;)

Right leg looks more accurate without that 1x2 tile.

Edited January 9, 2016 by La Chupacabra