[WIP] MOC of the AT-ST Walker in LDD

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

what's the problem with it?

An element of the mold for the crane arm (2638) prevents the ratcheted Technic joint from being assembled as with physical bricks, yet LDD is oblivious to this impossibility and allows the two parts to mesh. Although, it still would be possible but by modifying the crane arm.

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

I have a set of anothergol legs (mark1 not the latest) may try and put your head on them

That could be done, though with how small my head (AT-ST that is ) appears, it may look out of proportion, considering that anothergol's legs are considerably larger (and taller) than the legs on mine.

[anothergol]

Btw I haven't used them (because of the color), but this years's crutches parts are interesting for the sides of the body.

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

Btw I haven't used them (because of the color), but this years's crutches parts are interesting for the sides of the body.

Would the eyelids look to detracting if in DBG? Haven't seen crutches before do you know the number or what set they appear in?

[anothergol]

Would the eyelids look to detracting if in DBG? Haven't seen crutches before do you know the number or what set they appear in?

These, from the collector minifigs. They're in that nasty metallic icecream color, but it has the right size for the body's sides (to which the little wheels are attached)

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

These, from the collector minifigs. They're in that nasty metallic icecream color, but it has the right size for the body's sides (to which the little wheels are attached)

I don't think they will ever produce them in LBG, but these similar elements are still in production (4596 even in LBG) (2508) & (4596).

[anothergol]

Yes, I've considered both. 2508 is way too long, 4596 is a bit long but still ok, only you have to cover those studs & add bulk. That's why the crutch part should be a better fit.

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

Yes, I've considered both. 2508 is way too long, 4596 is a bit long but still ok, only you have to cover those studs & add bulk. That's why the crutch part should be a better fit.

The crutch is already available in LDD, have found a way to use it?

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

Well, since I finished the AT-ST, I suppose it is time to finish the AT-AT!

[anothergol]

The crutch is already available in LDD, have found a way to use it?

yeah, I quickly tried to clip them to the sides, & attach the little gearwheels to them using a bar+clip (thus, fully replacing the LBG paint rollers). But as I wrote, I'd rather stay away from those metallic colors.

Edited July 29, 2016 by anothergol

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

A new update is coming along, which will address the unsightly gaps present at the back of the walker's head, as anothergol pointed out. Using the 1 x 4 hinge plates was paramount to solving this, but it opened up other predicaments. Since the rear of the head need to be expanded in order to incorporate the hinge plates it caused some difficulties with the side face plates colliding into the front armor plate. Then, another problem arises of how to connect the hinge plate to the rest of the back panel —but here is how it looks so far!

I am also not entirely satisfied with new locomotion computer design, but it works, currently…

[BrickShady]

I like your version of AT-ST, any updates on fixing the gaps?

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

I like your version of AT-ST, any updates on fixing the gaps?

*See image above* You will see my current progress on revising that area—many thanks!

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

Besides endeavoring to fill in the gaps on the back of the head, I always wanted to fix that particular joint to the body. Why would not that limit the possibility? Why indeed it will, but it will also make standing the walker on its own two legs less of a balancing act, as there is less articulation to manage—makes it more playable actually!

Though I accomplished this with few parts and minimal redesigning as possible, I had to use (64311), which is currently out of production, and its most relevant color to that of an AT-ST is black. However, in the necessary redesigning to implement the new joints, the belly is now flatter with simple use of the 6 x 4 inverted slope cutout—looks infinitely better!

Additionally, I was never completely satisfied with the previous version of the concussion grenade launcher, but now after noticing the nice part usage of (92906), to look the part on the upcoming Lego AT-ST set for Rogue One, it appeared to be a great idea to use the same (since nothing else seemed to work for certain reasons) and it turned out great!

[anothergol]

Nice idea to lock the inter-legs bar, however remember that the extenders make those joints really strong, so it's not needed, as long as you use those extenders.

I've changed the grenade launcher on mine too, but to a simple lightsaber hilt, because it really is that small.

I've redone the body on mine to be 6-studs wide btw, and thus was facing the problem of the lower "shields". I hesitated using shovels like you did, but I went for (a pair of) skis, it works quite well. The shovel is nice, however the lower shield is supposed to be quite larger than the top curve.

[Kristof]

Great updates. I like everything but two things. You don't really show it on the renders but vrom the front view it seems the top side is lacking some nice panel contour towards the tapered sides. With so much perfection on the sides and the back, top looks a bit crude now. Second thing is the 'nose' plating. It looks to clean and shiny compared to the studded sides and pretty much whole rest of the model. Looking on the props, I can see what you tried to capture. With the rest of the head as it is though, it just stands out to much in my opinion.

Edited August 15, 2016 by krisandkris12

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

Nice idea to lock the inter-legs bar, however remember that the extenders make those joints really strong, so it's not needed, as long as you use those extenders.

I wanted to use those extenders with the rubber inserts, but the joint being seven studs in length is already too long :( It might be an ultimate option to preserve the ball connector.

I've changed the grenade launcher on mine too, but to a simple lightsaber hilt, because it really is that small.

I did something similar, alternatively using the spyglass, but I discover that the mechanical claw, with the disk in between, can just barely hold in the lampshade, and I would not accept it. However, it seems to work fine with the gear you will have there, because of the indent.

I've redone the body on mine to be 6-studs wide btw, and thus was facing the problem of the lower "shields". I hesitated using shovels like you did, but I went for (a pair of) skis, it works quite well. The shovel is nice, however the lower shield is supposed to be quite larger than the top curve.

I had a very detailed design that used the 2 x 2 road sign for the plastron, but the build came out to large, so I saved it for maybe a larger AT-ST. I thought about using skis but they seemed to long, yet I look forward to what you have accomplished with them!

Great updates. I like everything but two things. You don't really show it on the renders but vrom the front view it seems the top side is lacking some nice panel contour towards the tapered sides. With so much perfection on the sides and the back, top looks a bit crude now. Second thing is the 'nose' plating. It looks to clean and shiny compared to the studded sides and pretty much whole rest of the model. Looking on the props, I can see what you tried to capture. With the rest of the head as it is though, it just stands out to much in my opinion.

Fair statement. That might be the gaps resulting this, because there is no small wedge plates that match the angle, plus I have this necessity to include the trap door element so minifigures can be seated in the cockpit. However, I intend to fix the gaps up the best I can with the updates I have planned for the back, but even now I am looking into other solutions involving uses with the hinge plate.

Plates for the face armoring would not work so well with how narrow the head is, and it seems to me that this area should be studies as possible, since it is the most notable feature of the walker, so it makes for a nice change from the studded side plates (which originally, I did have tiled up quite so much).

[anothergol]

I wanted to use those extenders with the rubber inserts, but the joint being seven studs in length is already too long :( It might be an ultimate option to preserve the ball connector.

But I was originally using the same 7-studs bar as you do, and 2 extenders + a 5-studs bar is the exact same length

I did something similar, alternatively using the spyglass, but I discover that the mechanical claw, with the disk in between, can just barely hold in the lampshade, and I would not accept it. However, it seems to work fine with the gear you will have there, because of the indent.

spyglass? Which part is it?

I had a very detailed design that used the 2 x 2 road sign for the plastron, but the build came out to large, so I saved it for maybe a larger AT-ST. I thought about using skis but they seemed to long, yet I look forward to what you have accomplished with them!

Ah, but that road sign has the perfect size, it really is nearly twice larger than the top shield, and nearly 1/3 of the whole width. Only problem with that road sign is to hold it, as the clip takes room.

Edited August 16, 2016 by anothergol

[Kristof]

... However, I intend to fix the gaps up the best I can with the updates I have planned for the back, but even now I am looking into other solutions involving uses with the hinge plate.

Plates for the face armoring would not work so well with how narrow the head is, and it seems to me that this area should be studies as possible, since it is the most notable feature of the walker, so it makes for a nice change from the studded side plates (which originally, I did have tiled up quite so much).

Great. Hinge plate could do the job, or maybe something with the panels you use for the faceplate.

Regarding the face, where you see a nice change, I'm observing to much of an contrast. There is nothing like that on the real thing. I like both, studded and studless, though mixing both on two adjacent faces (which feature similar texture on the real thing) looks a bit weird and makes the studs on the sides stand out to much :)

All this, however, can be emphasized by renderings. It may be that when built from real, everything would blend together nicely, without this seemingly strong contrast.

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

But I was originally using the same 7-studs bar as you do, and 2 extenders + a 5-studs bar is the exact same length

Yes, but I won't be able to anchor it to the body, as I was meaning to say, without simply using (64311) unfortunately…

spyglass? Which part is it?

(64644), otherwise called a telescope.

Ah, but that road sign has the perfect size, it really is nearly twice larger than the top shield, and nearly 1/3 of the whole width. Only problem with that road sign is to hold it, as the clip takes room.

Indeed it is the perfect size, and would have been the perfect design if not for the collision occurrences with the road sign clip, the modified plate with handle, into a larger wheel.

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

All this, however, can be emphasized by renderings. It may be that when built from real, everything would blend together nicely, without this seemingly strong contrast.

Well here is michaelozzie's AT-ST, who used my design for the face armoring, and in my opinion it appears great in physical bricks:

Delta class DX9 Stormtrooper transport. by Michael, on Flickr

[anothergol]

Yes, but I won't be able to anchor it to the body, as I was meaning to say, without simply using (64311) unfortunately…

Yes but my point was that you don't need to anchor anything, if you use the extenders.

I'm still surprised that those extenders support the weight of mine, and it now weights a lot. Really, your problem will more be the feet joints, they're where things will fail the most.

Well here is michaelozzie's AT-ST, who used my design for the face armoring, and in my opinion it appears great in physical bricks:

Delta class DX9 Stormtrooper transport. by Michael, on Flickr

Pretty nice AT-DP he has there, cool legs.

As for the AT-ST, my problem with the faceplate is that the slopes that define the eyes look rounded, it gives it a "Cars" look.

Also, the 1x4 walls for the sides is a nice idea, but then the slope is missing. I know the slope on the "real" one is less than the one of a 2x4 wedge plate, but it's still something that makes it recognizable.

Edited August 16, 2016 by anothergol

[Kristof]

^ Exactly. Sometimes being closer to the 'correct' angle isn't win win. Gol named it - the taper is missing. And about the contrast, true, it looks less disturbing in real bricks, but it's still there for me :) Like someone came and flattened the face with a rolling pin :D

What is for certain that this is all subjective - what seems wrong to me may nice for the majority :) Just sharing my feels and being very picky, because we all know that if it comes to your designs, perfect is not enough :D

[anothergol]

I did something similar, alternatively using the spyglass, but I discover that the mechanical claw, with the disk in between, can just barely hold in the lampshade, and I would not accept it. However, it seems to work fine with the gear you will have there, because of the indent.

the gear (which I've received today, it looks -much- better) is roughly the same thickness, so the trick works with both equally: you need the clip just to go through the disk & lampshade, and on the inside of the lampshade you attack a (trans clear) 20482, and then the bar to whatever you want, like a 18674.

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

^ Exactly. Sometimes being closer to the 'correct' angle isn't win win. Gol named it - the taper is missing. And about the contrast, true, it looks less disturbing in real bricks, but it's still there for me :) Like someone came and flattened the face with a rolling pin :D

As for the AT-ST, my problem with the faceplate is that the slopes that define the eyes look rounded, it gives it a "Cars" look.

Also, the 1x4 walls for the sides is a nice idea, but then the slope is missing. I know the slope on the "real" one is less than the one of a 2x4 wedge plate, but it's still something that makes it recognizable.

The curved 1 x 4 slope was necessary because of the underlying modified plate with handle that connects the 1 x 1 forehead, which also connects to the roof, to face armoring—"a Cars look." Alternatively using wedge plates would not work so well, since the head is narrower.

Yes but my point was that you don't need to anchor anything, if you use the extenders.

I'm still surprised that those extenders support the weight of mine, and it now weights a lot. Really, your problem will more be the feet joints, they're where things will fail the most.

With me, I did not want the hassle of managing all those points of articulation to get it to stand, this would not be the case if there were some quality ratcheted joints. However, the ankles will not be of much concern since I am using (92013), which is very stiff, but I am still considering your design for the inter-leg bars as a ultimate option.