Blakbird Posted March 18, 2016 Author Posted March 18, 2016 I have built Akiyuki's Archimedes Screw Type 3 as close as possible to the original (not the reworked version seen in latter videos). Blakbird, I have got a LDraw file for you. It is complete except for the ribbed hoses, I don't know how to handle those. The spiral is 12L purple and 14L black. Thanks! I'm sure I will be able to make use of your file. Quote
Courbet Posted March 19, 2016 Posted March 19, 2016 Blackbird, I have made the Ldraw file after having built it for real. I didn't use it for my build so there might be a missing pin (I have just seen one today), a duplicate one or another glitch. Also I have files with sub-assemblies still flat, I can make them available for download if it's of any use. Quote
nerdsforprez Posted March 19, 2016 Posted March 19, 2016 Finally got some time to read this. I think a project like this is the apex of our Technic hobby. Not just in the final product (GBC contraption) which is incredible, but also in the teamwork and collaboration. Thank you all for your involvement, especially Blakbird. @Blakbird - I do have one question. In the very beginning of this post you mentioned that we did, or were going to also build a display case. Did that get finished? Can you post pics? Quote
m3eu Posted March 19, 2016 Posted March 19, 2016 Hi All, This is a fantastic topic! Technically speaking, but also as far as collaboration is concerned. Even though the Akiyuki GBC based on NXT/EV3 are not in scope for this topic, I'd like to let you know that in my little spare time left I'm reverse engineering his S750 robot. I'm currently doing this in LDD and have started this almost three years ago. I've left this alone for a long time, but am determined to finish this and build it for real. I've contacted Akiyuki at the beginning of the project requesting additional or higher resolution pictures and after a while he replied that what's online is what's available. So information is scarce, but it makes reverse engineering even more interesting. Quote
Blakbird Posted March 21, 2016 Author Posted March 21, 2016 On 3/19/2016 at 4:45 AM, nerdsforprez said: @Blakbird - I do have one question. In the very beginning of this post you mentioned that we did, or were going to also build a display case. Did that get finished? Can you post pics? Yes, I have been making display cases for each of them as I go along. If you include the Cardan Lift from torso, that's 18 so far. More photos at same location. On 3/19/2016 at 4:04 AM, Courbet said: Blackbird, I have made the Ldraw file after having built it for real. I didn't use it for my build so there might be a missing pin (I have just seen one today), a duplicate one or another glitch. Also I have files with sub-assemblies still flat, I can make them available for download if it's of any use. Anything you have would probably be useful. Quote
jesuskyr Posted March 21, 2016 Posted March 21, 2016 Yes, I have been making display cases for each of them as I go along. More photos at same location. I envy you^^ Quote
RohanBeckett Posted March 21, 2016 Posted March 21, 2016 you need a 'series of tubes' to pass balls between each display case... an... 'internet of balls' ;) Quote
Superfield Posted March 21, 2016 Posted March 21, 2016 (edited) I just finished building the Invisible Lift. It is just awesome and impressed everyone who looked at it! At first the machine kept dropping balls at the first a few antennas. But once I follow the assembly video by TheRebricker to adjust the timing carefully (it is great that the machine is designed in a way that you don't have to take anything apart to adjust the timing), the machine works quite reliably. It still drops balls at a pretty low rate though. Another issue I noticed is the ball unloader. Over time, the connection will become loose and the claw is not tight enough to grab the balls. I had to tighten the connection once in a while. Is there anyone who managed to make the machine running for more than 10 minutes at 100% success rate? I also added return tracks at the back of the machine. I basically copied the design of the Cycloidal Drive. It was a bit harder than it seemed to get the angle right so that there's enough room for a second track, and the balls would not run too fast to dash out of the track. It has been a great fun building this machine. BIG THANKS to Blakbird and TheRebricker for the instructions! Edited March 21, 2016 by Superfield Quote
Blakbird Posted March 21, 2016 Author Posted March 21, 2016 Blakbird, I have got a LDraw file for you. It is complete except for the ribbed hoses, I don't know how to handle those. The spiral is 12L purple and 14L black. Being relatively inexperienced with MLCAD, I have struggled with all those weird angles. I hope you will be able to get something out of what I've done. Can't wait for the result ! Having now looked more closely at the file, it looks like you have started with a series of submodels and then posted the final result with all the submodels inlined. Do you still have all the submodels separately or in an MPD (multi-part document) file? It would much easier to work with the file and make instructions that way. Quote
Courbet Posted March 21, 2016 Posted March 21, 2016 Blackbird, here are all my subassemblies. I hope they will make things easier for you. By the way, I have built the Basket Shooter yesterday. Did you really insert the clutch as in the intructions on yours ? It multiplies the output speed by 3, which seems too fast for me, and not the speed of Akiyuki's original. That 8t after the clutch shouldn't be a 24t instead ? Quote
Blakbird Posted March 21, 2016 Author Posted March 21, 2016 Blackbird, here are all my subassemblies. I hope they will make things easier for you. Thanks! Yes, this will be much easier. By the way, I have built the Basket Shooter yesterday. Did you really insert the clutch as in the intructions on yours ? It multiplies the output speed by 3, which seems too fast for me, and not the speed of Akiyuki's original. That 8t after the clutch shouldn't be a 24t instead ? You can read about that change in this topic. It is intended to slow the module down, not speed it up. Looks like an error in the instructions! I have the gears reversed. Just swap the position of the clutch and 8 tooth gears. I'll have to fix those instructions. Quote
Edwin Korstanje Posted March 21, 2016 Posted March 21, 2016 Very nice display cases for it Blakbird Quote
STAT Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 Where do you guys get all the balls? Is it me or are they just realy expensive? Quote
Blakbird Posted March 23, 2016 Author Posted March 23, 2016 Where do you guys get all the balls? You've just gotta be born with it, dude. Quote
DrJB Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 You've just gotta be born with it, dude. LOL ... the question was about GBC balls ... not part of the male anatomy! Quote
Edwin Korstanje Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 Than you have not seen his balls, they are exactly the right size Quote
legolijntje Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 Than you have not seen his balls, they are exactly the right size :laugh: Where do you guys get all the balls? Is it me or are they just realy expensive? Yes, they are (relatively) expensive. I believe you can also buy them from Lego (Pick a brick), but that doesn't bring down the price a lot. A lot of people (myself included) use beads or other plastic balls (I bought mine on eBay). It doesn't matter a lot which ones you pick, as long as they are as round as possible (preferably without bumps or holes) and as close in size as possible compared to the 'real' Lego balls. Quote
Deepy Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 I'm currently building the ball factory and have some problems with the bucket shifter (side-to-side movement). The arm connected to the "L-shape connector" doesn't push strongly enough to make the full movement to the right, instead, friction make the arm to "jump" back in the end (the force is not strong enough). Do you have any suggestions to make the arm move more smoothly to push the bucket shifter side-to-side? Quote
Blakbird Posted March 23, 2016 Author Posted March 23, 2016 I'm currently building the ball factory and have some problems with the bucket shifter (side-to-side movement). The arm connected to the "L-shape connector" doesn't push strongly enough to make the full movement to the right, instead, friction make the arm to "jump" back in the end (the force is not strong enough). Do you have any suggestions to make the arm move more smoothly to push the bucket shifter side-to-side? That very topic was brought up in the Ball Factory review thread. Take a look there and you'll find some advice. Quote
DrJB Posted March 24, 2016 Posted March 24, 2016 (edited) Looking at SR71 continuously growing collection (in recent threads), I can only imagine the conversation with his significant other (SO) at the dinner table ... SR71: Honey, I think we're gonna need to upgrade to a bigger house ... SO: Are you nuts? We've been here for barely 2 years ... SR71: I know, but my !MOCs are feeling crowded ... SO: You and your addiction, but, then again, I'm glad I did not marry Jay Leno. Edited March 24, 2016 by DrJB Quote
Blakbird Posted March 24, 2016 Author Posted March 24, 2016 That EXACT conversation happens on a regular basis. Quote
9v system Posted March 27, 2016 Posted March 27, 2016 @blakbird how are you going with the spiral lift module? Quote
Blakbird Posted March 27, 2016 Author Posted March 27, 2016 @blakbird how are you going with the spiral lift module? Still waiting on the last parts to arrive. It should be built and the instructions released by next weekend. Quote
Blakbird Posted March 28, 2016 Author Posted March 28, 2016 Instructions for Akiyuki's Spiral Lift Module are now tested and complete and are available here along with a Brickstore parts list. 40 pages 876 parts Some of the credit for reverse engineering this module goes to 9v System who did the work making an LDD file based on Akiyuki's video. These instructions were more complicated than expected mostly just because I felt compelled to make all the ribbed hoses have identical slope. The build is quite simple and a bit repetitive. There is very little to set in the way of timing. Because the sprockets at each end are driven by worm gears on a common axle, it is helpful to clock the worm gears so that you get a uniform amount of slack in the belt on the front versus the back. Good luck finding the ribbed hoses. Red hoses in any length are quite rare. Of course, shorter length hoses can be joined together or another color can be used. Aftermarket hoses sold as "wiring looms" may also be an option. Akiyuki later built a double height version of this module for which I may make instructions at a future date. Quote
Killermike Posted March 28, 2016 Posted March 28, 2016 Are you able to provide the length of ribbed hoses? Quote
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