@Berthil do you plan to make instructions for any of your own designs? i would like to build the double bucket wheel gbc that you did

12 hours ago, 9v system said:

@Berthil do you plan to make instructions for any of your own designs? i would like to build the double bucket wheel gbc that you did

Sorry, I have no instructions. May be in the future but I have lots of plans for other projects, especially after the 7 days of LEGO World. But the Bucket Wheel ran flawlessly for 7 days.

Here by the way a video of my modules during Lego World:
 

 

Edited October 25, 20177 yr by Berthil

Finally, I bricklinked all the parts for modules "fork" and "catch and release". I will start building this evening. So, the magic begins! 

so i have built the V2 of the akiyuki train, it works alright but with the unloader it struggles to lift the bucket up, does anyone else have this problem?

8 hours ago, 9v system said:

so i have built the V2 of the akiyuki train, it works alright but with the unloader it struggles to lift the bucket up, does anyone else have this problem?

I do not have that problem. The train (without the switching tracks) has run without problems for 7 days 7hours a day and lasted 1,5 day on alkaline batteries.

Did you take the remark of Courbet in account about the old and new 24 teeth gears in combination with the bent liftarm? Apparently the new wheels run too tight there causing too much friction.
I must admit I sanded down a new gear a little bit because they are stronger and had it running all night with a light abrasive (metal polisher).

Edited November 1, 20177 yr by Berthil

14 hours ago, Berthil said:

I do not have that problem. The train (without the switching tracks) has run without problems for 7 days 7hours a day and lasted 1,5 day on alkaline batteries.

Did you take the remark of Courbet in account about the old and new 24 teeth gears in combination with the bent liftarm? Apparently the new wheels run too tight there causing too much friction.
I must admit I sanded down a new gear a little bit because they are stronger and had it running all night with a light abrasive (metal polisher).

i was able to fix it, the gear that is between the motor and the drive shaft was binding, so i replaced the tan pin with a red 2 stud axle.

@Courbet i have some bad news, i have decided to dismantle the ball cleaner, but im not going to let everything go to waste, i you want i will take detailed photos of all the parts and even send you the program. would that be enough to make some instructions?.

5 hours ago, 9v system said:

@Courbet i have some bad news, i have decided to dismantle the ball cleaner, but im not going to let everything go to waste, i you want i will take detailed photos of all the parts and even send you the program. would that be enough to make some instructions?.

I was never gonna built it anyway, as I don't own an EV3 neither the necessary pneumatic equipment.
You should still post detailed photos of your work for those (like maybe @Hocki) who might be tempted to complete it.

For who's interested, I did a complete rebuild of my stand alone Akiyuki Marble Run after my experiences during the week at Lego World Utrecht.

On 25/09/2017 at 10:27 AM, Hocki said:

Hello,

At which part(s) you do have problems to build?

I have build the Ball Factroy twice now, without any problems. The Timing and continous running is the most difficult part.

Was the ball loader couldn’t get the wright tube size and rubber band 

Can someone please give more info on the type of pipe one can use been trying to get Lego ones but they either hard or expensive to come by same as the cups for other models like the cup to cup one 11 of theme silver things that are so hard to get

thanks for instructions by the way 

happy builds 

freeze frame.. and just build it :)

it's right there in front of you!

plenty of close up shots, and lots of angles! should be easy!

It really doesn't look hard @LvdH. If it is that hard I could reverse engineer it for you.

2 hours ago, LvdH said:

I tried, the timer part was easy, but not the whole thing is visible on the video. I got stuck on the little car alone because there was so much I couldn't see. In combination with my non-existent GBC experience, reverse engineering is not in it for me...

I agree - I tried freeze frame and OK for most of the video but at crucial moments bits cannot be seen, i.e, the trip mechanism to load trolley onto the lift and details of trolley gravity run section.

9 hours ago, Aventador2004 said:

It really doesn't look hard @LvdH. If it is that hard I could reverse engineer it for you.

That would be great,

re auto reverse unit, it is more compact than a version I previously built for a GBC,  so will have a go at building this idea as clear from video the construction. Its the lift section thats not clear how its constructed.

3 hours ago, Doug72 said:

That would be great,

re auto reverse unit, it is more compact than a version I previously built for a GBC,  so will have a go at building this idea as clear from video the construction. Its the lift section thats not clear how its constructed.

For me, the thumbprint is a full picture of the mech, so I can see everything.

Just now, LvdH said:

As I said I successfully rebuilt that already, that's the easy part. I can't figure out the track though because part of it is not on the video. The video is really short too. 

The track, ohh. I thought you meant the reverser mech.

Sorry for misunderstanding this @Doug72 and @LvdH, I can't build the gbc, I am not good at them. I thought you meant the reverser.

At the moment, I am busy building the "cycloidal drive" and i just finished the stepper part. Is it normal that it needs some torque to turn the driveshaft of this mechanism? As an expierienced technic builder my feeling is, that there is a little bit to much resistance. But I can be wrong.

After a recheck, I was not able to find any pinched parts or any other possible origin of friction.

Or could it be just caused by the weight of the six stepper blocks?

9 minutes ago, Frequenzberater said:

At the moment, I am busy building the "cycloidal drive" and i just finished the stepper part. Is it normal that it needs some torque to turn the driveshaft of this mechanism? As an expierienced technic builder my feeling is, that there is a little bit to much resistance. But I can be wrong.

After a recheck, I was not able to find any pinched parts or any other possible origin of friction.

Or could it be just caused by the weight of the six stepper blocks?

Try using 12 non-friction pins to fix the vertical axles on one side of the stepper.
Look at Strain Wave Gearing building instructions, the stepper is the same.

That could work. I am going to check it out over the weekend. Thx!

I just built the front section, and found it a bit stiff too.. 

slight flexing of the main frame alleviated a bit of friction.. enough to be usable... but I wasn't 100% happy with it... will try the non friction pins, and see if that helps

BTW, has anyone ever tried out to apply WD-40 or similar kind of lubrication to their GBC Modules?

I can imagine, that it would improve smoothness of running and reliability a lot.

WD40 Is not a lubricant, it’s a water dispersant.

I dont why this is important, but this is a quote from their official website:

Quote

Myth: WD-40_® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.

Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40_® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40_® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.

Any meaningfull comments regarding my question? :)

WD40 will cause damage to Lego over time

 

silicon spray is safe to use

I tend to use it in areas of high speed axle/gear locations, or long term repetitive pivots that are load bearing. 

 

Keep in in mind that it can ironically cause a slight sticking over sliding parts... and keep well away from clutch gears!

Thanks a lot! I assume that you are reffering to the "stick-slip phenomenon". I will keep that in mind.