[GBC] The Akiyuki Project (2010 - 2020)

[Ankoku]

Thankfully this is why we have we have lots of different interfaces for essentially the same thing. I really enjoy browsing Brickshelf, so it is a shame to see it slowly die off.

Okay, so as far as I can tell, what is in the PDF image above, doesn't work and I think I know why. (In the Rebricker timing video he doesn't have the tiles)

In the Akiyuky (Wow, I have been butchering name) video, you can see a plate on the top and the thing clears it, so a tile should be no issue, yet it is.

If you look closely though, there is a plate between the X axis bricks and the Z axis bricks. This gives the height required to both make the shifter clear the pillar with the tile on the top, it also gives the height required for the original push forward and back mechanism to work.

The mechanism is very different to the backwards-engineered version and you can see one element of that via the two axels on the left. In the backwards-engineered solution, it is two grey 9L axels. Where as the Akiyuky version has one 10L at the back and one 9L closest. This is because in needs that 1L extra as a pivot point for the back and forth mechanism.

[9v system]

@Courbet today i designed this switch track for the akiyuki train type 2, it works very well and im thinking of doing this mod for the crane loader as well, could you see if it works with the crane loader for me? thanks 

 

[Ankoku]

Okay, with the height increase of the shifter, the back and forth now works smoothly and also is now able to move over the tile.

This is what it now looks like. Apologies for the colour, with the reversion to the original method, it is starting to look overly yellow:

You can see the black 10L axel which the lever is pivoting on.

Now the question is: How do I connect the bottom of the lever in a way that it doesn't hit the pillars. Or how do I redesign the pillars so that a connection can be made?

It is really difficult to see that aspect in the original Akiyuky video.

[cuddles10]

Does any 1 have instructions to the ball cleaner?

[Ankoku]

Does anyone know why this was changed?

This is an image from the Akiyuky original. As you can see the Brick Curved 2 x 4 No Studs, Curved Top one plate thickness deeper and under the lift arm.

The height of the lift arm on the ReBricker version is too low to allow this, which means the whole thing sits higher in the Akiyuky original.

Anyone know why this change was made?

The reason I am asking, much like with the pistons, is that the Akiyuky original seems to run a lot smoother than what I have. Reverting back to the original makes the shifter mechanism far smoother and thus less demanding on the motor.

As bob curves around the brick in question, it seems sticky. Which leaves me wondering if the original design was less sticky and thus less strain.

[Ankoku]

Okay, the main thing I am starting to see, in terms of a fundamental difference between the Akiyuky version and the ReBricker one, is the fact that they run at different heights. Some of the Akiyuky machine, is 1 plate higher.

You can see it here:

Was this a oversight, like the 20 vs 21 buckets, or intended? It certainly explains a few of the problems I have been having.

Edited February 8, 2018 by Ankoku

[Ankoku]

Here is some more evidence of a height difference. When I fixed the issues with the shifter, it required me to raise the supports of the conveyor belt, so that the shifter could fit in the hole. In the end, I reworked it so the hole was moved up, whilst keeping the conveyor belt the same height.

Now it appears that the conveyor belt is in fact one plate higher in the Akiyuky version than the ReBricker one.

This would account for the shifter difference and the issues encountered with Bob that I am having right now.

[Ankoku]

Okay, so I am in the middle of fixing bob. Basically, making him slide smoother and sort out the height issue.

The initial changes to the height didn't do much to improve smoothness and I found that the paddle seemed to now be an issue. It was also the source of quite a bit of friction.

As you can see in the image, the paddle is 3 deep in total. You can tell this from the light grey 3L axel. The bottom part of the paddle is a Technic Beam 3 x 3 L-Shape Thin. Using that piece makes a lot of sense and seems far better than using 3x Technic Beam 1 x 3 Thin, where the 1st of those completes the light grey 3L axel length and the other two are at 90° to create the L shape.

Unsurprisingly, this approach is smoother as there is less friction.

I am now looking at the yellow lift arm which the paddle slides across and which lifts bob up. The tilt mechanism in the Akiyuky video is different. I need to work out what he did and see if it is better or worse.

[cuddles10]

9v system im tying 2 make the ball cleaner input bin(i dont want 2 make the wole ball cleaner) i say on your YT that you had the input finished. can u sent some instruction or some detailed pics. im mainly tying to work out the lifter itself cuz ikd how you get it tilted and make it work.

[Ankoku]

I don't believe Akiyuki posts here.

[9v system]

@Ankoku have you noticed that the bucket dumper uses two cheese slopes?

@cuddles10 i have the ball cleaner still the hopper lift is done with a sliding crank that takes quite a bit to drive due to the angle it sits on.

@Ankoku heres the big hopper design for the factory https://bricksafe.com/files/gbcbuilder/Untitled1.lxf

[cuddles10]

@9v system do u have instruction for the hopper or detailed pictures?

 

[Ankoku]

@9v system

Got an image of the cheese slopes, as I am not sure what you are talking about.

[9v system]

have a look at this time mark there are two black bricks and a yellow 1x2 tile 

 

[Ankoku]

Yeah. Noticed that. Until I get to that point, I am not too worried about it. Also, far easier to change after the fact than most of the rest of it.

Having to raise everything by 1 plate is no small task.

I am still trying to work out why the area it dumps into has a 3 wide lift arm area at the bottom, instead of 2. Having it 3 wide with pins in it seems less than optimal in terms of ball management, speed and wear and tear.

Could be wrong though, it may be way better. Will use it as is for now and then change it to something similar to the original if it causes issues.

For now, I am mainly interested in making it run a lot smoother. I have had success with the pistons/shifter and bob.

Edited February 8, 2018 by Ankoku

[9v system]

@Ankoku are you going to build the large ball hopper?

[Ankoku]

Nah. Doesn't really interest me. I am going to remove the conveyor belt which is not part of the original machine and add a cup to cup part amongst other things. I will use the spare space around the small hopper for more GBC antics.

[cuddles10]

@9v system do u have instruction 4 the ball cleaner hopper? or maby pic. i want 2 see how the lifter works.

 

[9v system]

14 minutes ago, cuddles10 said:

@9v system do u have instruction 4 the ball cleaner hopper? or maby pic. i want 2 see how the lifter works.

 

on my bricksafe you will find some pictures of the ball cleaner with better views of the ball lifter

[cuddles10]

i looked on bricksafe and i only fount 2 pics 

[9v system]

there should be photos from akiyukis module on there

[cuddles10]

nvm i found them

 

[Ankoku]

Have you ever wondered what the machine in the background does? The one at the 25s mark!

 

[9v system]

that would be this

 

[Ankoku]

Okay, next up is the lifting part of the bucket unloader.

So I was playing with it and it didn't seem to work very well and certainly didn't reflect the motion I was seeing in the Akiyuki video.

Having watched the video more times than I care to remember, I noticed that the lift motion seemed to be in a single motion, not two. I also noticed that the lift arm used seemed shorter than the one in the instructions.

So in the end, I changed it from a Technic Beam 1 x 5 Thin with Axle Holes on Ends, to a Technic Beam 1 x 4 Thin with Axle Holes on Ends, using yellow ones to reflect those in the video. This seemed to work well and reflect the video.

Then I checked on Bricklink and it seems that Technic Beam 1 x 5 Thin with Axle Holes on Ends don't come in Yellow. So yeah, that bit needs to be a 4L not a 5L.

Edited February 9, 2018 by Ankoku