[GBC] The Akiyuki Project (2010 - 2020)

[Jonas]

On 12. 5. 2018 at 12:26 PM, Doug72 said:

Siding Modules:-

I have built the Type 2 but occasionally one train car fails to release, also the 8T gears on axle ends tends to rub on the end of the gear rack while a train is stationary.

I have just noticed your question. It took me some time to learn what you mean by sliding module. If you mean Akiyuki's Passing module then there might be a hint for you:

Did you make a half-stud offset when positioning the plate with the gear racks as shown in Akiyuki's instruction?

[doug72]

32 minutes ago, Jonas said:

I have just noticed your question. It took me some time to learn what you mean by sliding module. If you mean Akiyuki's Passing module then there might be a hint for you:

Did you make a half-stud offset when positioning the plate with the gear racks as shown in Akiyuki's instruction?

Re Sliding:-  Typo should be siding !!!

Thanks for that advice, I possible have  not made the 1/2 stud offset, Its worse in one direction than the other I will check the instruction & get back to you with findings. 

[doug72]

Many thanks for that advice - yes I had got it wrong.
Now corrected, tested & working OK without any problems.

Edited May 13, 2018 by Doug72

[RohanBeckett]

those pesky underside offsets.. lost track at how many builds over the years, they've got me... even on official sets, when it isn't pointed out clearly...

[Berthil]

5 hours ago, plingboot said:

@Berthil could you post some detail pics of the top exit ramp modifications you made to your invisible lift? I'd like to do this to my build.

Thanks :-)

I will make some pictures soon and post them here, no problem.

[9v system]

so i have just finished the bucket tower module, it works very well but i would like to know if anyone has built an output for it? 

[doug72]

Train system Rotary Dumper Module:-

I am currently building the rotary dumper module and have come across a mistake in the instructions on page 83 at step 3.

The 2L blue pin/axle is shown on the top hole of the triangular frame when it should be in the bottom hole (below the black pin) otherwise when you connect to the yellow gear ring it fails to line up correctly with that end being too high.

The 4L black axle in the yellow gear ring has to go through the top axle hole to align the rotating dumper correctly as shown in the video.

Building this section first as easier to set up the alignment and test before installing into the support structure.

Don't have enough 4L gear racks to build the elevator so will either use a long straight or spiral ramp or a zig zag or a see saw lift to reach dumper level.

Train release trigger page 67 step 8.
Found sometimes the LEGO Black Technic Cross Block 2 x 2 x 2 Bent 90 Split (Pin/Twin Axle) (92907) snagged on the battery box PF connector plug and failed to drop into position to trip and release the train car.

Modified the trigger arm (Green) and added extra weight to make it function better.

Edited May 20, 2018 by Doug72

[doug72]

I have now built the dumper module from parts I had and figured out how to set to the trip arm and train release trigger but cannot get it to perform more than a
couple of times before it gets out of sync again

Problem is the two red gears skipping teeth on the black turntable ring after unit rotates at about 1/3 rotation thus getting out of sync.
Always struggles during last 1/2 of rotation.
Tested with correct weight ballast box and without weights plus fresh charged batteries.

All very frustrating and have decided not to continue as too unreliable.

 

Edited May 22, 2018 by Doug72

[Berthil]

14 hours ago, Doug72 said:

All very frustrating and have decided not to continue as too unreliable.

I can subscribe to this, I had the Rotary dumper with me to a 3 day LEGO event but it failed right at the start although it seemed reliable at home.
The trains were used for 3 days with the normal dumper, both my trains have now 50h running time and it seems that in both trains the M-motor has failed.
I'm going to give the Rotary Dumper a second try with trains running on an accu pack (8878) rather than AA batteries.

The Invisible Lift performed very well for 3 days straight with the small changes I made to it but here also the motor failed after ~80h running time

[doug72]

21 minutes ago, Berthil said:

I can subscribe to this, I had the Rotary dumper with me to a 3 day LEGO event but it failed right at the start although it seemed reliable at home.
The trains were used for 3 days with the normal dumper, both my trains have now 50h running time and it seems that in both trains the M-motor has failed.
I'm going to give the Rotary Dumper a second try with trains running on an accu pack (8878) rather than AA batteries.

 

Thanks for the reply, I have tried all sorts to fix the problem to no avail !

Cam lock works OK when NOT under load and NOT connected to rotating dumper parts

It gets out of sync due to red gears slipping and skipping teeth on the turntable gear ring when the train and ball hopper are upside down - tried a stronger tension spring instead of "O" ring to keep arm and red gears in contact but that fouled other parts as dumper rotates around the cam lock frame.

Trying to come up with an alternative way of achieving a rotary dumper using an interruper gear similar to my Pseudo Pertpetul Motion GBC to give  enough dwell time for train trigger to release the train. Easy with an external motor but difficult using on board train motor.

Edited May 22, 2018 by Doug72

[Jonas]

22 hours ago, Doug72 said:

Problem is the two red gears skipping teeth on the black turntable ring after unit rotates at about 1/3 rotation thus getting out of sync.
Always struggles during last 1/2 of rotation.
Tested with correct weight ballast box and without weights plus fresh charged batteries.

Unfortunately, I have exactly the same experience.

 

[plingboot]

Well this is awkward… a couple of days ago I placed a whole bunch of orders for parts to build the rotary dumper ? if I’d have seen the above I may have thought twice about it. 

[doug72]

 

10 hours ago, plingboot said:

Well this is awkward… a couple of days ago I placed a whole bunch of orders for parts to build the rotary dumper ? if I’d have seen the above I may have thought twice about it. 

Oh dear !
I would suggest now that you have orderd the parts to go ahead and build it to & see if you can get it to function as it is supposed to and possibly find a solution to the skipping problem.

Now started to re-build but using a 20T gear engaging with the teeth of a static curved quadrant gear ring to rotate the dumper.

[plingboot]

I'm blindly optimistic that it'll function perfectly - given that I've had endless problems with my Invisible lift and not found the need to smash it to pieces, I can't believe this will be any more frustrating! :-)

[doug72]

Rotary Dump - Doug’s MOD - stage 1.

Having followed the instructions and failed to get consistent rotation and loss of synchronisation for the trigger release I set out to try and improve it.

The reverser unit is the same except in the way it rotates the dumper.
In place of the Z60 turntable two static rings of gear quadrants are used with four 20T double bevel gears with 18mm wedge wheels to  guide & support the reverser unit at one end.
The reverser drive output goes to two gears and has provided very smooth rotation.

The non driven gear ring uses same structure as per instruction but found relying on a single pin to connect to the reverser unit at the bottom and another 4L axle at the top to the discharge hopper was not enough and allowed the ring to flex in relation to the other end causing jams.
Connection modified by using two #1 connectors & two 2L axle connectors.
See photo:

Overhead view:-

Drive gearing:-

Side View:-

Next step is to figure out how to reverse the train with an empty hopper as it lines up with input track again.

Video:- Trigger removed to demonstrate the smooth rotation.

 

 

Edited May 23, 2018 by Doug72

[Berthil]

3 minutes ago, Doug72 said:

Next step is to figure out how to reverse the train with an empty hopper as it lines up with input track again.
 

I believe that is the most challenging part and the reason for the current mechanism. But it's looking good, I hope you succeed!

[Jonas]

3 hours ago, Doug72 said:

Next step is to figure out how to reverse the train with an empty hopper as it lines up with input track again.

Good luck in your attempt!

It is a big challenge to replace Akiyuki's cam mechanism. This clever mechanism plays several important roles:

- it fixes the position of the platform during the car arrival and departure,

- it stops the rotation of the platform while allowing the trigger mechanism to complete its loading before it fires,

- it works as a timer to allow for a short delay between the car arrival and the start the of the rotation.

[doug72]

Thanks, I have determined it requires 64 revolutions of the train 8T gear to rotate the dumper 1 revolution, which is exactly 8:1 x 8:1 so a two stage worm drive using 8T gears should work for the trigger mechanism.

Will test to see if a dwell period is needed.

[plingboot]

On 13/05/2018 at 4:22 PM, Berthil said:

I will make some pictures soon and post them here, no problem.

Thanks, when you get around to it could you also show some detail pics of your updated marble run too? Which motorbike wheel did you use for that build? 

If it's easier to share via email drop me a pm.

Thanks

 

[Berthil]

34 minutes ago, plingboot said:

Thanks, when you get around to it could you also show some detail pics of your updated marble run too? Which motorbike wheel did you use for that build? 

Detailed pictures of the updated Marble Run are on my Flickr including how I have made the launch platform sit in all rubber to dampen shocks.
It has done very well for 3 days in a row with no visible wear on the tire, the kids and adults loved it.
I only will add full 4 corner tubing after the wheel exit because on occasion some balls were shot to the ceiling :)
The wheel used is the 75mm D. x 17mm Motorcycle wheel 88517.

Edited May 24, 2018 by Berthil
correct wheel

[Frequenzberater]

I absolutely love this build!

[plingboot]

Thanks.

I like the switch from bricks to liftarms - looks much better.

[Berthil]

I just went ahead and took pictures of my compact Invisible Lift without setting up the temporary studio and also made a summary of reliability improvements I have made after running the Invisible Lift for 10 days now.

The compact exit uses the original mounts but with 3mm hoses, this takes less room so the top antennas stay clear of the tubes:

1st part of the exit hangs on this upper liftarm which connect to the original construction with two pins:

2nd part of the exit hangs on this lower liftarm which connects to the original construction with two pins:

3rd part of the exit is supported from below with these liftarms that connect to the original construction:

Exit is just a down tube made out of of axles where thee is no room for the ball to go anywhere but down:

Reliability improvements:

Added a 8L axle with stopper and two bushes to lock the ball picker mechanism in place because the whole ball picker was lifted up sometimes:

Shield from tiles to prevent balls dropping in here as this is the only place on the left where the whole machine locks up when a ball drops in:

Replaced the 4L axle with stopper with a 8L axle all the way down with bushes on the end to keep the ball feeder in one piece because on (rare) occasion the bucket came up:

Drive axle extension with a longer drive axle to the left as the left torque gear did run off to the left as there was nothing holding it in its place:

Added extra mount and cut 3mm tube to keep the 1x2 rubber in place to ensure good ball grip:

When moving my hands around the machine I always seemed to manage to bump of the two antennas that function as ball guides. No more with the use of the new two stud rounded plate:

Reclining platform and inside smoothening to guide the dropped balls out of the Lift and prevent jams:

More sturdy and better working ball feed, makes transporting the machine more easy:

Edited May 25, 2018 by Berthil
Typos, additions

[doug72]

Re Dumper Module:
After many more hours trying to get this to function and trying to identify whats causing the problem with gears slipping out of sync the swing arm with the two red gears twists and jams the rotation.
Therefore I have to admit defeat.

Edited May 26, 2018 by Doug72

[Berthil]

I've designed a drop in to replace the standard LEGO battery box with 6 heavy AA batteries with the LEGO rechargeable Lithium Ion battery (8878) in the Akiyuki train. This has resulted in almost 25% less weight (80 grams). All battery functions reachable without taking the battery out of the train. Wire from the battery also interferes lees with the switch arms. With this I will try again to make the rotary dumper more reliable.

Edited May 26, 2018 by Berthil