New to trains, my first layout, and of course a few questions....

[Farmer Harv]

Hey all. I've slowly been accumulating Lego trains and track over the last year, and finally got around to setting the tables up and laying things out. My only criteria were to be able to run two trains at once, and that there be a reversing loop. I don't think it worked out too bad for the first go, but I'm sure there's always room for improvement. Quite a bit if flex track was used simply because I had it, plus it's very forgiving of poorly planned layouts. :-)

Amazingly difficult to get a good picture of a layout. Of course shortly after I finally got this all set up, I found out about BlueBrick which would have saved a pile of trial and error, but part of the fun is taking Lego apart and rearranging it, so it's all good in the end.

Haven't figured out how to flex the flex track in BlueBrick so everything connects properly, but it definitely would get things close enough that it'll work in real life were I to use the software to try different ideas.

I still have to assemble and motorize a Horizon Express and Emerald Night, and can see I'll need another table and some more track to run a few spurs off to park the extra trains. I had no idea how much square footage a Lego setup would cover, and quickly realized a 5'x9' ping pong table would not do all I wanted, and even adding the 6' folding table for the reversing loop still leaves me at least 15 square feet short of what I want to do.

So a few questions about where I could go from here...

Has anyone used the Creator houses (Bike Shop & Cafe, Apple Tree House etc) with a train? Do they "fit" well, and are they proportioned correctly? Or should I stick with the City line to add some life to the layout? I have a few unopened Modulars, but think I'd sooner sell them and buy more trains, track and less expensive buildings instead.

I've done a little reading about grades and elevated track, and wonder if it would be worth it? Looks like quite a bit of track length is needed to get up to the next elevation, and I'm not sure how I would work it into this space. Any ideas on this welcome.

Will I ever go through enough AA batteries to justify the price of the Lego rechargeable packs? I haven't run these for long yet, so don't know which way might be better. I guess at least with the rechargeable pack I won't be just tossing handfuls of AA batts into the trash every so often, and that's worth something.

Anything else I should really have/do? Or just flesh it out with some buildings and vehicles and let them run? Any and all constructive criticism welcome.

[xboxtravis7992]

The modulars fit the scale of Lego Trains nicely, everything else is kind of dwarfed in comparison to the big train.

[dr_spock]

I think Creator buildings is fine for a layout. It could work for a less dense area like the country side or suburbia. It would be cheaper than using modulars that some folks prefer. But for a city downtown core, taller buildings would be better. It's your layout, do what you want.

I use rechargeable AAA batteries. I don't screw down the battery box cover and in my MOCs, they are easily accessible to swap out batteries.

[lostdriveway]

I think all the city, creator and modular buildings and houses fit and work well. That's what most of us use to build up our towns.

In regards to batteries I have bought some energizer rechargeable ones. The recharger itself came with 4 AA batteries and I bought 3 sets of AAA batteries to start with. This was enough to power my first 2 trains. Since then I buy a packet of AAA ones whenever I see them on sale. This is enough for me and what I do however I believe if you start displaying at Lego shows then the rechargeable Lego packs are a worthy investment as they hold the charge for much longer.

Looking forward to more updates to see how it grows!

[v6TransAM]

I like it.

Definitely more fun actually building it than doing it on a screen. I just cannot get used to that and I've tried.

Beside I have the boy for help(and his little brother)

[Farmer Harv]

Received approval to rezone a little more of the room from Hers to His, so think I have enough space for what I had in my head all along. Now I'll be able to have a freight yard, construction zone, town and amusement park, two trains running concurrently, motorized rides and space to have everything shunted off that isn't running. Now I just need to build what I have, and buy what I don't. When is the next double VIP points day..?

[Mr_Owl]

It's nice to see any train layout getting bigger. How many train are you hoping to accommodate there?

[Farmer Harv]

It is fun watching it grow alright, but to make this any larger I'll have to move to the garage I think. Or worse...outside. :-0

Hoping to have 60098, 60052, Horizon Express, Emerald Night and Maersk cargo all motorized on rails and ready to go at all times, and the Lone Ranger theme Constitution train as a static piece. One thing I'm finding now is that once I have all the rail laid that I want, there isn't that much room left for the buildings and things that will bring it to life. Definitely a balancing act between trains and environmental items when it comes to utilizing available square footage.

[engineer003]

If you can't go out anymore....go up! Add on a deck or two and have tunnels and more building space. My layout is 3 decks high with trains and buildings on all 3 decks. And from the pics you have wall space for a shelf deck(s) as well supported by wall brackets.

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

Lovely layout!

[Chillgoon]

Hi Guys, still new to the forum and just recently got back into lego and am in the middle of getting my own first layout together on a ping pong table.....Also keen to have two trains running at one. Have the latest cargo train and also got my hands on a horizon express (purchased the PFs from Lego).

Just one question regarding the very top first layout, am I missing something or with that layout when you go into the reversing loop and then back out, you can never get back in there, if you can understand what I am trying to say? There needs to be a change of direction somewhere else in the layout to be able to allow the train to go back in the direction of entering the loop?

Apologies in advance if I have said something stupid...

[xboxtravis7992]

^Sometimes a train will have to run backwards to use a reversing loop. That's pretty common in real life railroads to. The alternatives to a reversing loop would be a wye or a turntable, and both can be complex to build in Lego.

Edited December 14, 2015 by xboxtravis7992

[Chillgoon]

Thanks

xboxtravis7992

- I guess if you need to reverse back out anyway you probably dont even need a loop, just a spur off where you go perhaps unload cargo and then reverse back out to get onto the main line / main loops

Edited December 14, 2015 by Chillgoon

[ecmo47]

Farmer Harv: I like the new track plan with the double loops. Trains can now access all parts of the layout and there are no "dead" areas. The one thing I'd do is get rid of the three spur tracks that are not part of the yard area. This will free of space for building and scenery which are as interesting as the trains themselves. Here is my layout which is just two simple loops and a decent amount space of other stuff . One loop is Power function and one is 9 volt. For reference, it's 9x12 ft.

DSC01071 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

By the way, nice Steiger! is that yours? I remember when as a farm kid from Iowa when those first came out in the 70's and thought then were the coolest tractor ever. I wonder if Lego makes enough sand green bricks to model it?

Edited December 14, 2015 by ecmo47

[Farmer Harv]

Thanks for the tips everyone. I see what you mean ecmo47, I just put down a few buildings and see how little space I have left for the town, amusement park etc.. I have a new plan forming which will free up some space, as well as allow a single train to run all of the track without needing to operate switches, or two to run at the same time. Sadly it will require the use of a razor saw to build an interchange, but it's like the old adage about the omelette I guess.

And yep, that's my old 1986 CR1280 Steiger Cougar. Not quite as boxy as the first generation, but still that distinctive green. Be cool to MOC it someday if I could ever find enough bricks in that color alright. Been using it as my avatar for a well over a decade on every forum I frequent...amazing how many people have recognized me from it.

Edited December 15, 2015 by Farmer Harv

[Paperballpark]

Regarding the 'AAA vs Rechargeable' debate, I display at shows, and use Rechargeable boxes for the simple reason that I don't have to disassemble the train when the battery dies. I just plug the charger in through an access hole. As some of my trains have the PF gubbins built right into the train, that's a godsend. In my prior experience, good batteries will last about as long as the rechargeable box - about 3 to 4 hours, depending on a load of variables (mostly to do with resistance and weight). I currently have 12 rechargeable battery boxes...

Edited December 14, 2015 by Paperballpark

[ecmo47]

^ What is a "gubbins"? Not familiar term on the other side other pond!

[Paperballpark]

Sorry, it generally means 'stuff', or 'innards'. In this context, it was meaning all the various parts of the Power Functions system.

[Farmer Harv]

Almost there! Received all the track and switches I had on order, and have everything connected and running now. It takes the Emerald Night ~95 seconds to travel both loops and return to the station at just over half speed, which feels about right as it moves around. Now I just need to go baseplate hunting and get building buildings, and then start thinking about elevated tracks once it's all together.

[Farmer Harv]

And here's a quick little video of it (almost) fully operational...

[Crossbones]

Hi Farmer Harv! Thanks so much for posting the photos and progress of your layout. As soon as we get past Christmas I am on a mission to clear out a section of the basement for a layout, and I am inspired to see what you have done - great work!

Also, it's interesting to see people using standard plastic tables for benchwork. I come from an N-scale background, and I always think of building up the benchwork from wood, which costs big in terms of labor, time and money. What's the general consensus on here? Keep it simple and buy some cheap tables, or build my own?

Edited December 23, 2015 by Crossbones

[pirzyk]

Also, it's interesting to see people using standard plastic tables for benchwork. I come from an N-scale background, and I always think of building up the benchwork from wood, which is costs big in terms of labor, time and money. What's the general consensus on here? Keep it simple and buy some cheap tables, or build my own?

I first started with the plastic tables, the only issues I found was the size (they are not multiple of baseplates) and height. I am 6' 4" (1.93m) and using the NILTC standard tables saves my back as well. I have 4 60x40" tables at 36" high. Our tables have adjustable feet so I can align the tables with each other so baseplates crossing the tables are not uneven. The plastic tables I had to use shims and it did not work that well.

[Crossbones]

I first started with the plastic tables, the only issues I found was the size (they are not multiple of baseplates) and height. I am 6' 4" (1.93m) and using the NILTC standard tables saves my back as well. I have 4 60x40" tables at 36" high. Our tables have adjustable feet so I can align the tables with each other so baseplates crossing the tables are not uneven. The plastic tables I had to use shims and it did not work that well.

Thanks for the information. I found a link to NILTC and I'll take a look at their standards. I figure since I am just getting started I can take the time to do it however works best for me now, and not have to go back later and re-do it.

[Farmer Harv]

Wasn't real happy with the way the tender full of battery box on the Emerald Night appeared, got to looking at the way the hidden switches were depressed on the Heavy Haul and Cargo trains, and came up with this...

Not a perfect solution, but it camouflages the battery box to a large extent, plus nothing needs to be moved/removed to turn it on and off...just a simple press does it.

Happy New Year everyone!!

[ecmo47]

One tip on battery boxes. Remove the outer case. That way the battery box will fit loosely in the space provided. It is MUCH easier remove from the tender and you will not have to go hunting for that jewelers miniature screw-driver (that is always in a continuous state of "lost") to swap out batteries.