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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS! ×
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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Posted

Hello, after a long pause I decided to begin a new project, another high speed chassis, but this time I wanted to build a chassis with proper driven independent suspension and lighter than my previous build. After many attempts in the past, I concluded that this wouldn't be possible without printed pieces, as lego u-joints just can't survive the shock load of 4 buggy motors. My previous MOCs either had solid driven axles or suspension using only one u-joint, which didn't have ideal handling. Now, after testing efferman's 3D printed CV joints (coupled with Lego spherical gears, similar to 8880) on a small MOC, I used them on this large scale project. Results - it works! They easily handle the power and CV joints are more smooth in general. There is still room for changes and even after these pictures were taken I reinforced the rear suspension.

Features/details:

  • RWD - 4 Buggy motors, with 2 powering each wheel, they aren't coupled through the center.
  • Independent suspension on all wheels, front uses efferman's printed wishbones.
  • Servo steering
  • Anti-roll bars
  • 3rd party electronics and custom battery pack link for the curious

Total non-Lego/modified parts:

  • Wheel hubs made by nicjasno link
  • Modified 9L links
  • Printed wishbone pieces link
  • Printed lower suspension arm pieces link
  • Printed spherical gear holder (CV joint) link
  • Modified pneumatic cylinders

Photos:

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^Pneumatic tubes work well to tie down the battery. Excuse the sand, took it offroad for a bit :laugh:

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Oh man, I should never sell my parts after using them like this :grin: Enjoy!

Posted

Like I said in effes topic this thing looks awesome. :classic:

I like the 4 wheel indepenednt suspension but I think it might perform better with smaller top wishbones.

Have you thought of making the font and back of +caster?

I really like the Znap pieces to make the cabin :thumbup:at least I think they are

Posted

Have you thought of making the font and back of +caster?

I want to keep it as simple as possible. I guess I could add positive caster, but I would have to completely disassemble the front, and may increase the part count to accommodate for the offset. I could make the top rear wishbones smaller but I don't think it needs the negative camber, will try it out though. I saw the cabin pieces on bricklink, but them because they looked cool and strong, not sure where they're from :laugh: Thanks for the feedback.

Posted

Those parts on the cab are actually not Znap, but from the Cybermaster set. Those Cybermaster sets have a lot of unique and rare parts.

Ya your right! what in the world is up with this set? 4 RC antennas?

Posted

Curious to see how she handles!

The body looks quite solid and high speed stable, I do think you can get that batt into the body

I was thinking we should come up with a testing system to put high end models such as this in, which could consist of visual appeal test, 8 meter accel test, top speed test, ramp accent (like a skate bowl), bump test (driving over a hose at full power) and top speed turn test... What ya think?

Posted

That looks fearsome. Hoping for a video soon or at least a report. Make sure you test it to failure so we know where the weak points are.

v/r

Andy

Posted

I love moc's like these, with detailed chassis like your anti roll bars and such.

The negative camber is indeed not really necessary as you have a buggy, but a positive caster angle should help with performance and steering like in your other cars,

so it would be nice to see that here too :wink:

i see you took the slower output of the RC motors, i think this is for better accelerating? or was there another reason?

Great MOC and i too look forward to a video if thats possible :thumbup:

Posted

Clarkdef, I will be sure to make a video soon, and as far as testing those are interesting ideas. Without positive caster and with stiff suspension I don't this model would fair well on the bump test :D

Andy, the only weakpoint I see is the front axle, since without 3 point hubs it is very vulnerable to damage, bit I try to drive smart ;) Any other points of failure would be a large fall, as the suspension is quite stiff in the rear. I don't see the CV joint s failing unless I threw the vehicle backwards while on full throttle, but that's just cruel/unnecessary.

Tibivi, thanks, and if you look closely the actual driveshafts come out of the faster output, I simply join the pairs of motors through the slower output.

Posted

That looks great. Love the rear wheels. I would make a shorter wheelbase if possible. Good image and the yellow of the pneumatics is great.

H

Posted (edited)

Thanks everyone :laugh: I gave Horace's suggestion a try and shortened the wheelbase by 4 studs, and took a small video. It is still a work in progress and I want to make a realistic looking roll cage which is proving to be difficult :sceptic:

Edited by z3_2drive

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