Sariel Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 The boring tank I've never really wanted to build, but oh well... Pics and reading: http://sariel.pl/2016/01/maus-super-heavy-tank/ The model is far from perfect, it has a couple of visual flaws, the most important being the turret which is 2 plates (6 mm) too tall by my count. The reason is, well, wedge plates. At this scale, the rear wall should be inclined so that its upper edge is 2 studs closer to the front than its lower edge. To make this wall come together with turret’s sides, which are built with plates, it was necessary to use a wedge plate whose edge is “cut” at 2 studs. Unfortunately, only one kind of such a Lego wedge plate exists – piece #47397 (left) and #47398 (right) – and it is 12 studs long. If we add to this the fact that there is a gap below the back of the Maus’ turret, this gives a side wall that is 13 studs tall in total, but it’s inclined and thus a little lower – just under 12 studs tall. The accurate height of the turret is 11 studs, and hence the difference – if there was a similar wedge plate, only 11 studs long, this would not be a problem. The model has also prompted me to develop a completely different shooting mechanism for my future models, because this one is just not reliable enough and it severely limits the main gun's elevation range. But it has done at least one thing right - it drove on the snow without problems (well, except for going uphill, which would require modding the tracks). Quote
Saberwing40k Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 Yeah, the only thing really interesting about the real tank is the size, and maybe the suspension. But, it's still a great model, even if it's not perfect. Now, a LandKreuzer, on the other hand... Quote
neonic Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 The model is far from perfect... If you say so .... Think it's an impressive model, like the most of yours. You're not only handy with Lego, but your very handy with filming/edditing too. I see your hamster now have a little friend Quote
Tommy Styrvoky Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 I have been looking forward to see your rendition of the mighty Maus. I wonder how well a sprung suspension/torsion bar system like the real Maus used would be able to function at this weight and not just be compressed and bottom out? it looks as if there's a lot of free space above the sponsons and center of hull below turret. I sometime want to replicate a Maus and possibly use that space to replicate the internals of the original vehicle. Or maybe build a E-100 with the Maus turret, It have some ideas for making the skirts for it, and maybe replicate the Belleville washer suspension with opposing springs, as I don't really see the purpose of me building another Maus. You did a great job at replicating all of the features except suspension and maybe replace the shooting mechanism with a recoil system. I bet this devours the LIPO batteries. I know 7V delivered by the LIPO decreases the rotation speed of the motors, but does that have a similar effect to the torque too? Tommy Styrvoky Quote
Saberwing40k Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 Unless you are all tanked out, here's an interesting tank concept by artist Keith Thompson, who has done concept work for Borderlands and Pacific Rim, as well as illustrations for a couple of books. The T-10 Charioteer: It's a very interesting design, and I think that would translate into an interesting build. In particular, the robotic torso on the turret would be interesting to replicate, in terms of function. Plus, you've got two different guns to work with, and some room for artistic license. But, if you've got tank fatigue, I understand. Jeez, building those treads must have sucked. Quote
Sariel Posted January 24, 2016 Author Posted January 24, 2016 I bet this devours the LIPO batteries. I know 7V delivered by the LIPO decreases the rotation speed of the motors, but does that have a similar effect to the torque too? No, the torque is constant and depends on motor's internal gearing. Technically, you could run a motor at 1V and still get the same torque. It's just the mechanical power that diminishes because it's a product of torque and speed. Quote
Kristof Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 Not that I'd like this particular tank that much. Everything older than Tiger looks somewhat weird to me :D But again you executed it really well and I like the model (despite its size) very much! Quote
Tommy Styrvoky Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 Do you have any photos of how the shooting mechanism was changed between the T29 and the Maus? I'm interested in the improvements. Quote
Sariel Posted January 24, 2016 Author Posted January 24, 2016 I don't, I'm afraid. The working principle is the same, I just made it a little shorter, stiffer and added "chute" to put the clip in. I don't want to develop this mechanism anymore, I don't like the stress it puts on the pieces. I have a completely different solution in mind now, one that should solve the stress problem. Quote
Tommy Styrvoky Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 (edited) I don't, I'm afraid. The working principle is the same, I just made it a little shorter, stiffer and added "chute" to put the clip in. I don't want to develop this mechanism anymore, I don't like the stress it puts on the pieces. I have a completely different solution in mind now, one that should solve the stress problem. Will it still use lego springs? As I feel that severely limits the power of the mechanism. Also I had a couple of thoughts for converting your autoloader to be similar to the rotary style racks in the AMX-13. It would only have a single benefit, the entire mechanism isn't as tall and doesn't protrude through the top of the turret. I Thought about implementing it when I was designing my AMX, though it would have been too large. I think a concept would be cool, but more mechanically complex than necessary with wedge belt wheels and the process of reloading.I think a mechanism with a side loading system will be more compact and allow you to cover up the hole on the top of the vehicle's turret. Edited January 24, 2016 by Tommy Styrvoky Quote
Sariel Posted January 24, 2016 Author Posted January 24, 2016 Yes, I'm thinking about a side loading system, it wouldn't have a spring and it would be pretty flat. A clip could come in on one side of the turret and come out on another. Maybe I'll manage to fit it inside my Tortoise. Quote
Tommy Styrvoky Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 Yes, I'm thinking about a side loading system, it wouldn't have a spring and it would be pretty flat. A clip could come in on one side of the turret and come out on another. Maybe I'll manage to fit it inside my Tortoise. I don't know how well that will work with the Tortiose the main problem I had when building one was having issues with the trunnion being mounted too far from the front of the casemate, thus causing a massive hole in the casemate. Quote
Beck Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 What an amazing model! Of the few Lego Maus tanks built, this one by far looks the most realistic. I was suprised at how effortlessly it moved (in a straight line) despite the immense weight! I believe the Maus also had a short 75mm cannon to the left of the main 128mm. Quote
deehtha Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 Shouldn't the torque also decrease as voltage decreases? Quote
Sariel Posted January 24, 2016 Author Posted January 24, 2016 (edited) Shouldn't the torque also decrease as voltage decreases? No. Voltage only affects speed and torque depends on motor's gearing. You would need to physically modify gears within a motor to decrease torque. For proof, look at torque values in Philo's tables: http://www.philohome...s/motorcomp.htm I believe the Maus also had a short 75mm cannon to the left of the main 128mm. To the right of the main 128 mm, that's why the model has it: Edited January 24, 2016 by Sariel Quote
grum64 Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 (edited) The boring tank I've never really wanted to build, but oh well... This may be boring to you and one you didn't really want to build buy I'm really glad you did. You say it's flawed, well that's as maybe, I can't see where. It might not be how you'd have liked it to be but to me it looks quite good great. Edited January 24, 2016 by grum64 Quote
Blakbird Posted January 25, 2016 Posted January 25, 2016 No. Voltage only affects speed and torque depends on motor's gearing. You would need to physically modify gears within a motor to decrease torque. For proof, look at torque values in Philo's tables: http://www.philohome...s/motorcomp.htm Something is not right about this. The motor torque should be directly proportional to voltage. The voltage determines the strength of the electromagnetic field which determines how hard the output pinion tries to turn. You can read about it here. It says, in part: For the same motor, ideally if you apply double the voltage you'll double the no-load speed, double the torque, and quadruple the power. Perhaps Philo can explain the reasoning behind the values in his charts! I think the only torque he directly measured was the stall torque at 9V. Quote
aeh5040 Posted January 26, 2016 Posted January 26, 2016 Something is not right about this. The motor torque should be directly proportional to voltage. The voltage determines the strength of the electromagnetic field which determines how hard the output pinion tries to turn. You can read about it here. It says, in part: For the same motor, ideally if you apply double the voltage you'll double the no-load speed, double the torque, and quadruple the power. Perhaps Philo can explain the reasoning behind the values in his charts! I think the only torque he directly measured was the stall torque at 9V. That's right. The point is that, for a _fixed_ voltage, torque is determined by load, which can be varied. (This is Newton's third law - the torque provided by the motor is equal to the load applied to it.) Applying a higher load (torque) will result in a lower (angular) speed, up to the point when the motor can no longer turn (i.e. the speed reaches zero), which happens at the _stall torque_. The _stall torque_ does indeed depend on the applied voltage, and in fact should be approximately proportional to it. You can test this very easily. Hook up an M motor to (e.g.) only two batteries (providing 3V), by short circuiting the battery box, and see how easy it is to stop the axle rotating by hand. Compare that to the full 9V. The amount of force you need to stop it corresponds to the stall torque. The stall torque is also what you care about if you want to know "can my vehicle get up this slope, or get over this obstacle". Philo's data about varying the voltage is obtained using the _same_ load for each voltage. You can see his picture of the set up - he has a weight on a string wrapped around a drum. So of course the torque is always the same - that is as intended. He does not report measuring the stall torque at different voltages, although that might be an interesting thing to do. So, I don't think there is anything that needs explaining... Quote
Sariel Posted January 2, 2019 Author Posted January 2, 2019 Apologies for refreshing this thread, but I've just discovered that RC models of the Maus tank were actually built even before the real thing was ;) Quote
efferman Posted January 2, 2019 Posted January 2, 2019 every time i see a Maus, it remind me to this Quote
M_longer Posted January 2, 2019 Posted January 2, 2019 13 minutes ago, efferman said: every time i see a Maus, it remind me to this What have I just watched? O_o Quote
Kristof Posted January 3, 2019 Posted January 3, 2019 One would think one has seen plenty weird things to be prepared for this :D But boy was I wrong Quote
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