[MOC] Another AT-ST version 4.5

[Lucifer]

The problem has never been the feet, themselves, though. It's the balance on the ankles, so securing the feet wouldn't change anything.

Well it was easier for me to pose it if the feet don't slide around :D

Did you already have those 2 LBG curved parts in the back? Funny how there were still dozens on BrickLink for like 20 cents, just a few months ago. But because the last ones were in a store for like 7eur, every new one that pops up costs as much now.

No, didn't have them, had to order them from a different seller since the once I got most parts from didn't have them. So they cost me 16.80€ with shipping, I might have let my perfectionism win out over my wallet in this case.

EDIT: Made a simple Sullust diorama for it :D

Edited July 14, 2016 by Lucifer

[La Chupacabra]

You could just buy a officer from 75134 and turn him into an AT-ST pilot with the head of the old one and some black hands like so:

Same here:

AT-ST Crew by

[Lucifer]

Nice! Will be perfect with one of the new official ones, then one will have the goggle on the helmet :D(unless they only did that ingame)

I also though some more about those low friction ankle and head joints. I found a solution that while using non Lego parts is invisible and completely reversible:

I simply placed a small piece of rubber sheet in each socket(without glue), this increases the friction making the whole thing more stable.

[Markalus]

Thanks for sharing your MOC anothergol. I finally got around to photographing mine, with a couple of minor substitutions. Cheers!

[anothergol]

Pretty nice pictures, over white like that.

I don't know if it's the perspective, but it looks like you managed to balance it to the front better than I could (perhaps the "real one" was balanced with the weight of an engine in the back, even though the movie's maquette had nothing in the back)

The long tube under the body is indeed hard to find in black, here I've used a 4mm black tube, cut to 17 (or 16) L.

(btw the 1x2 slopes in LBG are pretty easy to find for cheap at Bricks&Pieces)

Edited July 16, 2016 by anothergol

[Markalus]

Pretty nice pictures, over white like that.

I don't know if it's the perspective, but it looks like you managed to balance it to the front better than I could (perhaps the "real one" was balanced with the weight of an engine in the back, even though the movie's maquette had nothing in the back)

The long tube under the body is indeed hard to find in black, here I've used a 4mm black tube, cut to 17 (or 16) L.

(btw the 1x2 slopes in LBG are pretty easy to find for cheap at Bricks&Pieces)

It is more front balanced in these pics....a lot of trial and error. I don't have any minifigs in it which helps a little to reduce weight. Posing it is quite a challenge but I certainly learnt a lot from the build techniques you used and it's an awesome looking MOC!

[Corydoras]

I really like this AT-ST, but the legs seem a bit overgreebled, they appear too detailed compared to the "real" thing.

[Forresto]

All in all how expensive is this model to assemble? I'm debating whether I buy the U-Wing, AT-ST, and Imperial Tank or build something like this? If this is too expensive I will stick to official models, unfortunately as this model is incredible!

[anothergol]

I really like this AT-ST, but the legs seem a bit overgreebled, they appear too detailed compared to the "real" thing.

Sure, but the legs on the real one (which are gribbled too, only not carved as much) are thin, and if you keep the legs simple with only the technics bits, it will be full of holes & pins which is worse than gribbling.

The gribbling on the thighs (the bar, disks & handle) is genuine, though. And since that makes those quite bulky, you need a transition, which is why the third leg segment isn't as thin as it should be.

All in all how expensive is this model to assemble? I'm debating whether I buy the U-Wing, AT-ST, and Imperial Tank or build something like this? If this is too expensive I will stick to official models, unfortunately as this model is incredible!

If shipping wasn't involved, BLinking it would cost the same as in a Lego set (like, 70eur). So all the extra comes down to how many shops will be involved where you are. If you substitute the 2 rare parts in the back and the LBG paint roller, you may get it for 100.

Just keep in mind that it's nowhere as solid as Lego's own will be, it's for display.

Edited July 21, 2016 by anothergol

[ATAT_Again]

Nice! Will be perfect with one of the new official ones, then one will have the goggle on the helmet :D(unless they only did that ingame)

I also though some more about those low friction ankle and head joints. I found a solution that while using non Lego parts is invisible and completely reversible:

[snip]

I simply placed a small piece of rubber sheet in each socket(without glue), this increases the friction making the whole thing more stable.

Thank you for sharing this tip. I just finished it and having a little problem getting it to stand.

Edited July 21, 2016 by Brickdoctor
Please don't quote images.

[manglegrat]

I also though some more about those low friction ankle and head joints. I found a solution that while using non Lego parts is invisible and completely reversible:

I simply placed a small piece of rubber sheet in each socket(without glue), this increases the friction making the whole thing more stable.

Thank you for sharing this tip. I just finished it and having a little problem getting it to stand.

+1 Great idea, Lucifer!

...and we didn't even have to sell our souls for it. Schweet!

[anothergol]

There's a risk of breaking the joint piece, though. Also you will have more troubles balancing it "naturally".

But it may help balancing it more towards the front, like the "real" one.

About balancing btw, it would have been possible to add fake weight in the back, using random metal Lego parts. Problem is that there's already quite a lot of weight on the 2 32016 joints of the legs, quite some weight on very little plastic (because of the hole in that joint).

[Lucifer]

There's a risk of breaking the joint piece, though.

True it does add a little more strain onto the joint. I guess that could cause issues if you use the non reinforced version of the brick 57910 rather than 62712

[anothergol]

For those who wanna change their build to the flatter front version, I've finalized the LXF:

http://www.fiastarta...T/AT-ST_2_2.lxf

Notes:

-due to the differences in side plate placement in "real", the DBG 2x3 wedges+1x1 round plate on each side at the front, can be replaced by a 2x4 wedge.

-the eyelids are using 2x2 wedges in LBG, which don't exist yet. I'm not even sure they look better, but they will have the advantage of closing pretty perfectly!

-no more opening front, but it's now much easier to remove the cover (only 1 stud), and you can then see the interior *with* the front

-there are other unrelated changes in some places, sometimes using parts in colors that don't exist (hopefully) yet. La Chupacabra suggested using 30602's as leg shields, that seems to work well (only there's no more place covering the joint)

Edited July 27, 2016 by anothergol

[atlas]

Looking even better somehow. I think I might have to build this one

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

The new face plate armor looks great; less studs and a seamless transition to the forehead, plus that the eyelids matches up with the slopes. The joint shield is also a nice improvement.

[dimnico]

This is fantastic! One of my favorite all time vehicles from the original trilogy and while the official lego models are good, this is beautiful!

I love the work on the legs!

[anothergol]

I've just made proper pics of v2.2. I've reworked the roof (allowed myself cutting 2L tubes, I don't know if Lego ever did this, but I've sometimes seen 2L cuts in BrickLink), so that I can finally have the full grille at the top-back.

And the tile-in-clips eyelids look nice.

https://flic.kr/s/aHskFgViFx

[Jannik]

That looks amazing!

[Calanon]

This is looking really, really good. I am going to have to upgrade my copy of your first version at some point.

[Markalus]

Love the improvements anothergol. The photos look great too!

[anothergol]

Thanks

Btw, seeing how LiLmeFromDaFuture's MOC has a nice flat roof, I was wondering if I couldn't remove the bevel (the "real" one has a bevel, but not this big) at the top. And actually, it's doable, since I have 1 plate of safety between the minifigs & the roof (it was there so that a Chewbacca could fit as well).

It requires changes I'm not happy with, so I'm not gonna continue it, but here's the LXF for those who wanna test.

It's sad that the numeric entry for the ball joints is so buggy in the LDD, because I can't rotate the side plates the way they do in real life, and it makes precision edits/collision checks difficult.

http://www.fiastarta...atRoofTest2.lxf

Edit: oh wait, I didn't know there were long enough flex tubes in LBG. This might fill the gap nicely.

Edited July 29, 2016 by anothergol

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

Btw, seeing how LiLmeFromDaFuture's MOC has a nice flat roof, I was wondering if I couldn't remove the bevel (the "real" one has a bevel, but not this big) at the top. And actually, it's doable, since I have 1 plate of safety between the minifigs & the roof (it was there so that a Chewbacca could fit as well).

It requires changes I'm not happy with, so I'm not gonna continue it, but here's the LXF for those who wanna test.

Yes, I like the roof you have now on the head, as it works considering it does not angle at the top, and does not create that unsightly gap underneath (at the top of the side panels).

*EDIT* Would not that hose bend out of shape overtime, since it is not connected at the other end?

Edited July 29, 2016 by LiLmeFromDaFuture

[anothergol]

*EDIT* Would not that hose bend out of shape overtime, since it is not connected at the other end?

I would overbend them, so they would be stopped by the plates. They will bend back over time, but I've never seen these bend back fully straight.

I've even had used soft axles inside pin holes for a year, hoping that would get them back straight, they seem to be bent forever.

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

I would overbend them, so they would be stopped by the plates. They will bend back over time, but I've never seen these bend back fully straight.

I've even had used soft axles inside pin holes for a year, hoping that would get them back straight, they seem to be bent forever.

It seems like could be placed where corner tile is (right above the dish mount), though it would add more studs.