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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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  • Author

Just to let you know I'm following this project and trying to build with LDD. It's possible but not easy. I love this vehicle. Many thanks for making LXF files available.

Good to know that you're trying to build this vehicle! When you finish your build, please let me know about the result.

Of course the changes to the LDD-files go a little bit further than the images showing the extra half bush on the CV joints. Please examine the new LDD-files. These also incorporate changes to the two axles with small bevel gears placed between the engine and the gearbox (one at the front of the gearbox and one at the back). These axles are now supported by 2 double cross blocks instead of one (see images). Alltogether it took me 4 hours to make my build follow the design again ;-(.

Good luck!

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  • Author

I've been playing around with LDD a little bit more and made some cutouts showing only all rotating parts. I was quite overwhelmed myself, haha.

You can also see the gears inside the seats.

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Edited by Didumos69

  • Author

I've been able to actually build the bodywork that I had in mind for this platform (see the Steppenwolf Bodywork topic). The extra weight that came along with this bodywork caused the front wheel hub to bend a little bit. As a result the steering pivot points moved slightly inwards, which in turn introduced a little toe-in. This weight-dependent toe-in worried me, so I decided to strengthen the front wheel hubs. See the image below for the difference between the old hub (red parts have been removed) and the new hub (green parts have been added). These new stronger hubs do not affect max steering angle and suspension travel. I updated my Steppenwolf building directions page and the LDD-files on Bricksafe to reflect these changes.

The new front wheel hubs go hand in hand with a slack reduction method that boils down to tying rubber belts around the ball joints attached to the steering links. This method is described in the Finalizing-section of the building directions page (see also this topic).

800x360.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

  • Author

UPDATE: I regard my Steppenwolf build as finished. Here's a short video of the final result:

Edited by Didumos69

  • Author

In my last post I said I regard my Steppenwolf build as finished, but how could I have been so naive. A build is never finished :classic:

I have been able to eliminate the last weak part in the front wheel hubs. Until now I used an engine crankshaft and a perpendicular axle-pin connector to keep the bottom side of a pole reverser handle in place. The combination of these 2 parts could easily get displaced and loose its function. By moving the steering links half a stud backwards, I could replace the weak parts with a stronger construction. It also meant I had to replace the tooth rack with one that allows the steering links to be attached half a stud more backwards. In addition, I had to replace the 3L thin lift arm attached to the lower wishbone with a 3L perpendicular axle-pin connector to avoid the wheel hub from turning too far. This also allowed for the use of a 4L axle with stop to attach the shock absorbers to. Moving the steering links backwards added to the stability of the entire steering setup. As a consequence I could remove one of the rubber belts (the red one) from the steering links.

The front wheel hubs, lower wishbones and the steering links / tooth rack combination now look as depicted below. I updated my Steppenwolf building directions page and the LDD-files on Bricksafe to reflect these changes.

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Edited by Didumos69

  • 1 month later...

Only today, while playing around with the LDD application and exploring its features, I came across a directory that contains a "AWD Platform.lxf" file. Opened it up, and thought its content looks awesome and familiar... exactly like something I saw earlier in this forum. So I came into this forum and started searching and here I am :laugh: - apparently I saw your thread before, but as I was looking for something else at that time, I didn't read through your posts in detail.

I must say that 'awesome' might not be enough to describe your work here :thumbup: . If you have no objection, I plan to replicate this chassis, as I think it'll really help me get started in seriously designing and building stuffs with LEGO Technic!!

  • Author

...

Thanks! Feel free to build it, no problem. It was actually meant to serve as a starting point for others. The LXF-file you found is part of a building directions page on my bricksafe, a link to this page can also be found in the original post of this thread. Building won't be easy but it should be doable. And if you have questions you can always ask them here :wink:

Edited by Didumos69

  • 3 months later...
  • Author

Thanks to a tremendous effort by Thorsten Spelz I'm very happy to present full blown building instructions for the Steppenwolf. You will probably still need three hands to build it, but this should guide you the way. It's advisable to also follow some of the directions on the buidling driections page while buidling from these instructions. These building instructions can also be used if you're interested in the seats only or in the front suspension or rear suspension only.

There's one small note I would like to add to the instructions: The 4L axles with middle stop that are inserted into the U-joints connected to the wheel axles can be inserted a little deeper than the instructions suggest:

400x125.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

Wow so much work must have gone into that, kudos to Thorsten Spelz!

Thanks to a tremendous effort by Thorsten Spelz I'm very happy to present full blown building instructions for the Steppenwolf.

Thank You veru much, Didumos69, for the instruction. I waited. :blush:

Edited by ifilin

  • Author

Didumos69, thanks) Sad, that i haven't these wheels and these shocks and old style differentials, but i will build this chassies in my mind anyway.

Sorry you don't have all parts, but the differentials are not 'old style' as far as I know. It uses the 4 studs wide 6573 diff as center diff and the 3 studs wide 62821 diff as front and rear diffs.

Wow so much work must have gone into that, kudos to Thorsten Spelz!

Indeed. He did a truely amazing job!

Thank You veru much, Didumos69, for the instruction. I waited. :blush:

You're welcome! Have fun with them!

Edited by Didumos69

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Oops!

800x450.jpg

I found quite a few issues with the instructions available on Rebrickable. Be sure to take the errata below into account. Also make sure you use the parts list as presented by Rebrickable, not the parts list in the instructions. Sorry for the inconvenience. Hopefully Thorsten Spelz is willing to update the instructions.

Errata (p=page, s=step, ss=substep):
- p10/s6: Mount the 2 4x2-liftarms to the 9L liftarm from s5 with 2 additional 2L pins with friction
- p12/s5-6: Replace the 4 horizontally oriented 2L thin liftarms - 2 from s5 and 2 from s6 - by 2 2L (+0)-liftarms
- p13/s29: Flip all 6 3L pins
- p14/s31: This step should be postponed and merged with p108/s36
- p22/s10: Replace thin 12t bevel gear with half bush
- p22/s12: Replace half bush with thin 12t bevel gear
- p27/s26: Swap half bush and thin 12t bevel gear
- p38/s4: Slide 2 extra bushes along the front ends of the 8L axles upto the 4x2 liftarms
- p38: Insert p46/s1-4 and p48/s1-4 between s6 and s7, see also p47/s24 and p49/s26
- p40/s3: Insert 4L axle with middle stop into U-joint by 80%, not by 50% (see inset below)
- p40/s10: Slide an extra half bush to the center of the 4L axle
- p43/s3: Insert 4L axle with middle stop into U-joint by 80%, not by 50% (see inset below)
- p43/s10: Slide an extra half bush to the center of the 4L axle
- p47/s24: Skip, p46/s1-4 should have been inserted at p38
- p49/s26: Skip, p48/s1-4 should have been inserted at p38
- p52/s4: Use 5L liftarm instead of 7L liftarm
- p54/s34, p54/s35, p58/s2: Do these steps only after p59/s39
- p54/s36, p56/s37, p56/s2: Do these steps only after p57/s38
- p60: Between s40 and s41 insert this step
- p62: Between s44 and s45 insert this step
- p68/s62: Use additional 2L pin to make sure second sub-sequence mirrors first sub-sequence
- p74/s5: Replace 6 backwards facing 3/4 pins with backwards facing 1/2 pins
- p85/s6: Drop the 2 bushes
- p88/s7: Replace 3/4 pins with 1/2 pins
- p89/s11: Insert 4L axle with middle stop into U-joint by 80%, not by 50% (see inset below)
- p95/s7: Replace 3/4 pins with 1/2 pins
- p96/s11: Insert 4L axle with middle stop into U-joint by 80%, not by 50% (see inset below)
- p103/s7: Leave out 2L pins
- p105/s15/ss5: Swap half bush and thin 12t bevel gear
- p107/s59: Swap 12t and 20t bevel gears
- p112/s19: Add additional half bush adjacent to 12t bevel gear
- p113/s38: Use 2 long pins with stop bush (32054) to mount rear side of engine

al400x125.jpg

  • 1 year later...
  • Author
3 hours ago, LithuanianLegoFan said:

Is it possible to replace cv and U joints with this 3d printed part https://www.shapeways.com/product/594DUQXXV/female-universaljoint-adaptor-for-piece-2907?optionId=57073918&li=user-profile and 2907 part?

I don't think so. Right above the U-joint runs an important 5L axle and to not rub against it I think the printed joint would need to sit too far away from the wheel hub. Why would you want to replace the joints with printed ones?

11 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

I don't think so. Right above the U-joint runs an important 5L axle and to not rub against it I think the printed joint would need to sit too far away from the wheel hub. Why would you want to replace the joints with printed ones?

Maybe I will replace not U joints but only CV because I want to motorize it with powerful (not LEGO PF) motor and driveshafts must be strong.

In that case You might involve metal U-joints (from RC hobby) rather than 3D printed ones, and modify axles to fit inside.

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTghMEOnmPwRSzfRC1rIC3

But keep in mind, this model was built as manual model, many extra reinforcements, redesign might be needed to keep up the required performance. Not to mention many parts can be destructed: differential,gears, axles...

Edited by agrof

4 minutes ago, agrof said:

In that case You might involve metal U-joints (from RC hobby) rather than 3D printed ones, and modify axles to fit inside.

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTghMEOnmPwRSzfRC1rIC3

But keep in mind, this model was built as manual model, many extra reinforcements, redesign might be needed to keep up the required performance. Not to mention many parts can be destructed: differential,gears, axles...

look at this car 

here's everything ok

12 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

I don't think so. Right above the U-joint runs an important 5L axle and to not rub against it I think the printed joint would need to sit too far away from the wheel hub. Why would you want to replace the joints with printed ones?

Also if it is going to be a big problem will be able to glue parts instead of placing 5L axle.

  • Author
1 hour ago, LithuanianLegoFan said:

Maybe I will replace not U joints but only CV because I want to motorize it with powerful (not LEGO PF) motor and driveshafts must be strong.

If that's your goal I would not use this model as a starting point. Like @agrof pointed out, this model was built as a manual model and it's main focus was to have properly angled off-road axles. Also, it was my first MOC and I would probably design a model like this with less parts and better form-locking these days. If I were you I would look at motorized MOCs for inspiration.

Edited by Didumos69

1 minute ago, Didumos69 said:

If that's your goal I would not use this model as a starting point. Like @agrof pointed out, this model was built as a manual model and it's main focus was to have properly angled off-road axles. Also, it was my first MOC and I would probably design a model like this with less parts and better form-locking these days. If I were you I would look at motorized MOCs for inspiration.

ok

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