SBricks & Trains - Second test runs with Stadler FLIRTs

[Ashi Valkoinen]

Previous tests with description of how SBrick should be mounter in trains and how it can be used from smart devices, please refer to this thread:

http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=115885

After equipping my red Stadler FLIRT EMU (415-001) with SBrick and testing it on different events I decided to put the SmartBrick inside my blue (415-061) Stadler FLIRT EMU as well. The two 9V train motors had been removed and two PF train motors (each attached previously to a 9V one) remained in the trains. The basic idea from switching from 9V to SBrick was that the two Stadler FLIRT units with 8 train motors together needed a really high current to move, and after several tries with paralell speed regulators and more power supplies connected to 9V loops it became obvious for me that making 7 kg of trains consisting of two invidual EMUs run is not sustainable on longer time period, and I can't expect other LUG members to supply me with all those extra cables and custom 230V AC->10V DC adapters under their part of layouts. Other issue was that voltage in 9V tracks depended how far the 9V train motor from power supply was, so synchronising the speed of my two FLIRTs seemed impossible.

The two PF-train motors driven from SBricks can deal with the 3.5 kg weight of each FLIRT train, however they really slowed down on sharp turns and points. Each train can run around 3 hours with 6 pieces of 2100 mAh VARTA AA rechargeable batteries.

For synchronised run I needed to design a new SBrick profile on designer.sbrick.com, where a slider drived both trains' SBricks' driving output (actually output "D" in my MOCs). After setting up the right polarity (done in profile settings, the two EMUs started into opposite direction for first try) they started to run, the magnet couplers hold them together and there were no problems on straight track segments. Problems started to appear in curves, the rear train, running still on straights was faster than the first one slowed down in curves, so it simply pushed the first one through the coupling causing derailment of the last bogie of the first train.

Unfortunately it seems that two PF train motors are not enough to keep up the speed in curves, however with careful driving and slowing down in time the derailment can be avoided. Also rechargeable batteries should be approx in the same condition, a train with fresh or stronger batteries will be faster, however they have approx. the same weight and number of train motors.

These derailments and problems (I almost couldn't run coupled FLIRTS on points, the first train leaving the point become faster and decoupled from the rear one) are caused by the not satisfying number of train motors and maybe failures of my train couplings, I'm working on them by now :) , equipping FLIRTs with a third PF-train motor for less slow-downs and a stronger, technic-parts containing coupling system (but still keeping magnets for easy to play experience)

Also I need to put EMUs front/tail lights for ends "A" and "B" to different outputs - I can't reach the small polarity reversal bricks to turn off lights between units (see Fig.1. for details). Fortunately SBrick has four outputs - now two for front/tail lights, one for driving and one for indoor lights are being used.

Fig.1. Polarity reversal brick to turn off front/tail lights manually on my EMU when the end is connected to other EMU. Not very playable when the train is in the middle of they layout.

And let see how the application worked for me.

I used a HTC One M8 mobile with the latest application and latest firmwares on my SBricks.

Problem 1.: You are not allowed since version 1.6 for Anroid to attach an SBrick port to more sliders or buttons. Therefore when I start to operate Stadler FLIRTS simultanously, I have to first exit from the profile wich allowed to run them separetely (with two driving sliders) then load a profile with one slider for synchron run. It's such a pity that only one slider or button can handle a function.

Problem 2.: derived from problem one, application crashed when I tried to reconnect to the two SBricks with a new profile. I don't really now how informatics and programming works, but crashes happened only on the first day of exhibition (7th of April), for the remaining three days they magically disappeared.

Problem 3.: Connection lost. It happened quite often, at least three-four times in 10 minutes time gap. When running two trains synchronised and the first stops due to disconnect,well, derailments and broken couplers were the results. Also while App tries to reconnect, the profile screen gets darkened (see Fig.2.) and while it is darkened, you can't handle your outputs - even while the other, connected train is running. The only way to stop if reconnect not happening in short period of time is to exit from the profile. I couldn't figure out the cause of these disconnects, they appeared both while trains were running together, trains were running separately or one or two of them were just staying somewhere with turned on lights only.

Fig.2.: One Sbrick disconnected, but other working - and if set to run, still running. Photo is just illustration, taken of different phone and with second SBrick in my Bombardier Talent EMU previously.

A short video of the FLIRTs running together with SBrick:

Conclusions:

Pros

+Playability for first - I liked to have my trains run together, controlling both of them with the same slider, then decouple them and let them run on their own way.

+Four outputs on one SBrick - I need them more then ever. Increases level of playability.

+SBricks can be hidden - no visual contact needed and high range of control - a very needed advantage for bigger layouts.

+Not SBricks's Pro, but my FLIRTs now can run on non-9V track as well, ME-models R102s really tempting for smoother run, while I spared 4 of 9V train motors for other MOCs.

Cons:

-Once it was available to drive an output from different buttons and sliders, it is needed when you need your train solo and synchron run as well. (Or a non-train application - turn sign of car can be driven separately, but when signing warn or get stucked you need to blink them synchronised.)

-Still too many disconnect problems, when two SBricks connected to a profile, can't stop non-disconnecting one. (I know, disconnects vary with different type of phones and phone operation systems and it should be hard to write the code which works fine on every device.)

-Slider's 80% still not moving a train - not only my heavy ones but any train driven with SBricks. Voltage output function for trains applications should be changed.

Please note, this review was focused on the coupled run and my needs, previous review focused more on how to use SBricks. I hope you find useful informations here when you plan to run your locos, motor units together to pull a heavy freight train or carry more passangers in your LEGO-City!

My experiences also had been sent to SBrick developer team.

[marook]

Nice feedback.

I've seen the BT breaks from time to time, but nowhere near as much as you explain there.. guess it really depends on the phone/tablet and interferance in the room.

I have no problem running longer trains, also with good speed.

running.. It has 1 SBrick in each loco and dual PF motors in each, but the second motor did not make it run faster.. maybe it can pull more cars?

Speed did not differ between 4 & 6 passenger cars + loco's..

For synchronised run I needed to design a new SBrick profile on designer.sbrick.com, where a slider drived both trains' SBricks' driving output

Why? I simply use the same profile and add both SBricks and assign the same slider to the port that has the motors.. and then inverse the port output for the one that is mounted revers on each loco.. ;-)

[Ashi Valkoinen]

Nice video of your Horizon Eypress running!

Motors and speed: adding a PF-motor won't make the train significantly faster, but it gives the pulling power and traction I need on curves and points. Since my FLIRT trains are driven each with one SBricks and two PF-motors currenty, in weight I think they are heavier then your HE with 4 motors and 2 SBricks (and all weight comes to 10 axles, not to 26 as in your modell), they need on more to keep speed better. I need a single train to lose not too much speed due to drag in curves to avoid derailments when rear train in straights still pushing, or decoupling when front train is getting speed in straights, but rear train still in curves or on points.

Profiles: your HE-locos together make an invidual train. I have two invidual trains I want to run sometimes together. With the app 1.6 and older I could put the driving functions on different sliders at the same time, so I was able to run my red and my blue flirt separately, stop them next to each other, where magnet couplers can couple, and then start both trains with a third, common slider (from the same profile).

Yes, I know I can add and remove SBricks from a profile, but changing between profiles after coupling is still faster then configuration, on the other hand when FLIRTs are decoupled, I need both train to be driven separetely. For this usage different profiles is the solution, but I hope we get back the function I described above.

Thanks for feedback!

Edited April 13, 2016 by Ashi Valkoinen

[legoman666]

The Bluetooth motor controllers that codefox designed never disconnect unless the batteries get too low. I leave mine at home connected to my Nexus 7 tablet, it's been continuously connected for like 2 months now without disconnecting.

[marook]

Profiles: your HE-locos together make an invidual train. I have two invidual trains I want to run sometimes together. With the app 1.6 and older I could put the driving functions on different sliders at the same time, so I was able to run my red and my blue flirt separately, stop them next to each other, where magnet couplers can couple, and then start both trains with a third, common slider (from the same profile).

Ah, ok, I misunderstood.. I change between profiles as well, when 'breaking up' the front and back ends.. :-)