[MOC] UCS Nebulon-b frigate (by Dranac, feat. onecase))

[Rauhwelt]

On 7/21/2019 at 10:06 PM, Dranac said:

Not yet !

 

Do you have the parts list somewhere where one could check the parts/availability before buying the instructions?

This is amazing moc, really well done.

[Dranac]

I'm wainting for a validation of the moc on rebrickable (don't seems to come ?). And I don't know where to upload permanently the part list.

Meanwhile, I can email you the part list.

[Dranac]

For those who want the part list, you'll can find it here :

 

https://rebrickable.com/build/set/MOC-39979/

[Schneeds]

Can anyone who has built it advise on possible color substitutions?  Looking at the parts list, there are quite a few red pieces which don't appear to be visible in the pictures.  Aside from a few red tiles and a couple dark red slopes, I don't see any red; however, a lot of those pieces would be easier to procure in either dark bluish gray or light bluish gray. 

[jdubbs]

Just now, Schneeds said:

Can anyone who has built it advise on possible color substitutions?  Looking at the parts list, there are quite a few red pieces which don't appear to be visible in the pictures.  Aside from a few red tiles and a couple dark red slopes, I don't see any red; however, a lot of those pieces would be easier to procure in either dark bluish gray or light bluish gray. 

Oftentimes, MOC designers put all the buried/hidden/invisible parts in red, which can then be swapped to any color. There is probably a note about this in the description.

[Schneeds]

Wouldn't you just list those as any color then in the xml file?  Or is that not possible.

[Dranac]

Red pieces and lime pieces can be replaced by any colors.

 

 

[Rauhwelt]

The Wedge 6 x 2 Left and Right pieces in sand green are very expensive. Has anyone replaced these with another color? 

[Frizzlefry25]

18 minutes ago, Rauhwelt said:

The Wedge 6 x 2 Left and Right pieces in sand green are very expensive. Has anyone replaced these with another color? 

I couldn't afford those as well as its basically only in the old slave I build. I ending up using Sand Blue for those instead and replaced the other sand green with the blue as well.

[Rauhwelt]

2 minutes ago, Frizzlefry25 said:

I couldn't afford those as well as its basically only in the old slave I build. I ending up using Sand Blue for those instead and replaced the other sand green with the blue as well.

Yeah that's exactly what I'm thinking. Did it turn out good?

[Frizzlefry25]

1 minute ago, Rauhwelt said:

Yeah that's exactly what I'm thinking. Did it turn out good?

I have no issues with it whatsoever. I love the entire build, and the blue looks great especially considering the price for the green. I thinks it a good compromise.

[szimson]

Can anyone who build this model check how long is it between 2 stands? Drenac said its 85cm long, but I assumed it's from 1 tip to the other one. Also what's the model width? I plan to put this model on a floating shelf with the following dimensions: 85 cm x22 cm and I'm not sure if it would fit.

[Schneeds]

I finally freed up the time for this project. I also substituted sand blue for the green parts like Frizzle did as the wedge prices are insane. Made a fair number of other substitutions to newer versions of parts which I don't believe will be visible or change the appearance and brought the price down a bout $300 all in all. Hopefully it goes well.

[Frizzlefry25]

On 8/28/2023 at 11:26 PM, Schneeds said:

I finally freed up the time for this project. I also substituted sand blue for the green parts like Frizzle did as the wedge prices are insane. Made a fair number of other substitutions to newer versions of parts which I don't believe will be visible or change the appearance and brought the price down a bout $300 all in all. Hopefully it goes well.

Im sure it will, I have been enjoying mine for quite some time!

[Schneeds]

Thought I would post here and bring this to light for people who haven't seen it.  I recently finished the build and have some thoughts.

Firstly, this is a stunning display model once assembled. It has a lot more presence than you would think 5,000 pieces would allow for.  Dranac did an impressive job designing this thing, and with Onecases' modifications it is very polished and on that level of quality you'd expect from his work.  This is now one of my favorite models.

Second, building this is not for the feint of heart. It is not an easy build.  At all.  I say this as someone who has built the Oncecase Executor, Rasko Aggressor, and Psiaki X-wing.  This was harder than those.  While it is 'modular', it is not a simple matter of snapping things into place or pulling them apart.  The instructions also leave something to be desired.  The way the modules are ordered makes it essentially impossible to build.  It is also very easy to mess up the orientation of the spine, and if you do that... you are screwed and have to redo the entire thing. So I will give the following advice if you chose to build this:

1.  Start with the first module as outlined (rear stand/engine structure). Build modules 1-4 as planned, and make sure to attach module 4.  Then build module 5 but do NOT attach it, 

2.  Go to the 'spine' module at the end and build that. MAKE VERY SURE YOU HAVE THE PROPER ORIENTATION.  It is very easy to be off by a 1/6th rotation or so.  Make sure the wider top and bottom sections of the spine are at 90 degrees inline with the + axle .

3.  Go back and start building the modules in order with #6.  When you get to the front strut and super structure you are going to have trouble with the stacks.  It is inevitable and you will probably have to remove pieces and maybe swap in some tile pieces because getting the studded plate pieces to fit will require massive pressure and risk. 

4.  Once you're building the upper super structure framing, stop once you get to the point where have the four 1x2 bricks with axle opening blocks and the four 2x2 tile with upwright technic pin pieces; this is around page 224. This is where the spine connects to.  If you keep going there is no chance in hell you will be able to simply snap the bridge into place. 

5.  At this point with the insertion points exposed on both of the super structures, install the spine into place. Assuming you have the axles lined up properly, you should be all set and you can attach the rear roof and then proceed with building the rest of the front superstructure.

Attaching the front panels is somewhat difficult.  I recommend assembling the hinges first since they require so much pressure and either attach them to the technic frame or the panel and then install.

If you follow those steps it will make the build a lot more enjoyable and the result is well worth it.  I can also confirm the sand blue substitution looks great.

Lastly I forgot, you can substitute this ball joint in for this one easily and save money. 

Edited May 31, 2024 by Schneeds