efferman Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 10 pages so far, probably few more are coming. It is nice to see that in two days all flaws of the set were fixed. It is also interesting where this modding will end, because (thanks to your effort guys) at some point this set will have only two things in common with final modded version: name and colour :) Maybe only the colour. Today i had the idea of a actual version from the porsche 968 Quote
metulskie8 Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 (edited) What do you think of a black porsche? Edited June 11, 2016 by metulskie8 Quote
ddeklerk Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 What do you think of a black porsche? I was actually hoping that someone would make a white version of it. Although I am curious how you dyed those pieces and how they look next to regular black Lego panel pieces. Quote
Attika Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 What do you think of a black porsche? DSC_1463 by Attika Moc, on Flickr I think it is pure beauty. Dispite it isn't an official color. Quote
metulskie8 Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 DSC_1463 by Attika Moc, on Flickr I think it is pure beauty. Dispite it isn't an official color. black foil? Quote
Attika Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 black foil? In fact rather savage.. 5cm wide insulation tape. But it serves the purpose quite well. The edges are mostly ok, but the pinhole parts... Anyway pro: I can pull it of and it is like new. Con: pinholes and the back of the panels a dodgy Quote
Polo-Freak Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 (edited) Looks good in black/red Edited June 11, 2016 by Polo-Freak Quote
Attika Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 black foil? However I am interested, how did you made yours? Quote
Trace17 Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 Alright, so I switched the changeover catches and the left paddle gets caught about 50% of the time. The right one gets caught every once in awhile, but far fewer times, maybe 1 in 50. Although when/if it does, I'm screwed because I can hardly get to the parts to fix it. Anyway, this happens a lot and I'm guessing I am doing something wrong or I placed something wrong in building it. Any advice? If needed, I can try and take another video or more photos http://i.imgur.com/5DLLyB5.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ct0L0FE.jpg Quote
Attika Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 (edited) I Alright, so I switched the changeover catches and the left paddle gets caught about 50% of the time. The right one gets caught every once in awhile, but far fewer times, maybe 1 in 50. Although when/if it does, I'm screwed because I can hardly get to the parts to fix it. Anyway, this happens a lot and I'm guessing I am doing something wrong or I placed something wrong in building it. Any advice? If needed, I can try and take another video or more photos http://i.imgur.com/5DLLyB5.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ct0L0FE.jpg I've been watching over your video for a couple of times. That changeover catch looks hardly moving around that axle. It should be loose kept in position only by the rubber XX part.. Should turn back straight after the knobwheel came out from behind... Edited June 11, 2016 by Attika Quote
metulskie8 Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 However I am interested, how did you made yours? my neighbor is a varnisher Your Porsche looks the way from very good ... I still have no Quote
Trace17 Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 (edited) I I've been watching over your video for a couple of times. That changeover catch looks hardly moving around that axle. It should be loose kept in position only by the rubber XX part.. Should turn back straight after the knobwheel came out from behind... Interesting, because I would think it would be the opposite so that the knobwheel can't get stuck behind it. I've been watching your video again and again and the knobwheel never gets stuck "behind" the edge of the chageover catch. Your video for reference: Edited June 11, 2016 by Trace17 Quote
Attika Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 (edited) Interesting, because I would think it would be the opposite so that the knobwheel can't get stuck behind it. I've been watching your video again and again and the knobwheel never gets stuck "behind" the edge of the chageover catch. Your video for reference: That's right. Before I posted this mod I noticed that there is a "close call", so I tested for good, and never failed. The knobwheel shouldn't even go that deep behind as it goes. My advice is to get that shifting cube out as it is and build it again. That is what I do in similar situation... Edited June 11, 2016 by Attika Quote
Trace17 Posted June 12, 2016 Posted June 12, 2016 That's right. Before I posted this mod I noticed that there is a "close call", so I tested for good, and never failed. The knobwheel shouldn't even go that deep behind as it goes. My advice is to get that shifting cube out as it is and build it again. That is what I do in similar situation... I rebuilt it but had the same issue. So out of sheer curiosity, I decided to build it as pictured to see how it operates. The thing is, now it shifts much more reliably, and I'm not seeing the issue where it hits the 90 point and goes back. I made a video, and out of 38 shifts I count only twice it doesn't hit the 90, but it doesn't hit it initially so maybe I didn't pull back all the way. So what am I missing here? I don't want to proceed until it feels right, but also where problems aren't going to manifest later that aren't necessarily showing now. Quote
Attika Posted June 12, 2016 Posted June 12, 2016 I rebuilt it but had the same issue. So out of sheer curiosity, I decided to build it as pictured to see how it operates. The thing is, now it shifts much more reliably, and I'm not seeing the issue where it hits the 90 point and goes back. I made a video, and out of 38 shifts I count only twice it doesn't hit the 90, but it doesn't hit it initially so maybe I didn't pull back all the way. So what am I missing here? I don't want to proceed until it feels right, but also where problems aren't going to manifest later that aren't necessarily showing now. Seems ok to me. I have no idea what causes the difference. Paul Boratko claimed that his model does well, just like yours, but his wife's model fails by 10-15 degrees. I guess you go ahead and build it. Keep tasting the shifter as you get further in the building procedure. Quote
CopMike Posted June 12, 2016 Posted June 12, 2016 I'll just join the choir of praise for your knowledge and work here guys with the modifications! I'm off to Brickworld Chicago now and hope to pick up a copy of the Porsche. Then I'll have to learn to read & speak "Technic" and go through this awesome thread (and order parts because my Technic collection sucks ;-)!)! Quote
aefferen Posted June 12, 2016 Posted June 12, 2016 (edited) Here's my first mod to the front suspension, with positive caster angle, and macpherson strut suspension. I can't test it yet because I missed the first batches of sets. However based on the building instructions available via lego.com I expect this to fit. I also added the front lift of which I am pretty proud. However that one I need the set for to see how to operate it. The front suspension I added to another set I have to test and it works ok. This structure works best with the 9.5L shocks but that is too much for this model. It seems to be robust enough. However the 1/2 bushes better replace with Pin Connector Round 1L which I didn't have free anymore at the moment. As soon as I can lay may hands on a set I will go for another round of further improvements to make it more sturdy. Plus I will add the mods of others like the HOG and rear wheel steering. Some more pictures here http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/429712 Edited June 12, 2016 by aefferen Quote
Didumos69 Posted June 12, 2016 Posted June 12, 2016 (edited) Indeed interesting. As far as I can see you're not using the standard wheel hubs. How are you going to deal with the new rims not having axle holes? Apart from that, I like the concept. You could secure the perpendicular axle-pin connector holding the pivot ball-joint a little better by using a 4L axle with end-stop. In your second picture you can see it sliding off a little bit. Edited June 12, 2016 by Didumos69 Quote
Trace17 Posted June 13, 2016 Posted June 13, 2016 Seems ok to me. I have no idea what causes the difference. Paul Boratko claimed that his model does well, just like yours, but his wife's model fails by 10-15 degrees. I guess you go ahead and build it. Keep tasting the shifter as you get further in the building procedure. Thanks, it's weird that apparently it seems fine in some instances and not in others. I just did the front suspension today, and the glovebox bit, so far still fine. Quote
Didumos69 Posted June 13, 2016 Posted June 13, 2016 (edited) This evening I started building my Porsche and I think I found another friction issue within the gearbox. I also integrated my simple 90° limiter to get the orange paddles in perfect 90° positions. This turns out to work very well. The driving rings are being operated very effectively; there is clearly only one red gear engaged at a time and the engagement is full. However, when one of the two red gears at the back of the gearbox is engaged, it gets clamped between the driving ring and the 13L LGB liftarm to the back of the gears. My impression is that the gear shifter (or change-over-catch) has too much travel, or at least more than the half stud that is needed to engage one of the red gears. With the new 3L axle connector allowing the driving ring to move beyond its ideal position, the result is that the engaged gear gets clamped and suffers from substantial friction. To solve this I used a 2L axle and a 2L lever on each gear shifter to increase the distance between the gear shifter's pivot point and the ball joint. This slightly reduces the gear shifter's travel. Now the red gears are no longer clamped and are still sufficiently engaged. I'm not sure whether this will fit with the body, but I will find out later and let you know. Or maybe someone can check? Also without the 90° limiter the orange paddles may accidently arrive in a perfect 90° position. So I reken the red gear getting clamped could also occur without the 90° limiter. Edited June 15, 2016 by Didumos69 Quote
Didumos69 Posted June 14, 2016 Posted June 14, 2016 (edited) I made a short video showing the adjustment I made to the gear shifters to avoid friction. Btw, while building I try to eliminate most of the friction risks, also by following the pointers provided by nerdsforprez earlier in this thread. I also want to keep out the 24t clutch gear for dealing with halting and the 8t gear that is used to avoid backlash. IMO these are fallbacks that introduce too much friction in drive train and gear selection mechanism. I'm gonna make this baby rock! The gear shifter adjustment: Edited June 14, 2016 by Didumos69 Quote
Didumos69 Posted June 15, 2016 Posted June 15, 2016 (edited) It's a bit of a one-man-show in this thread lately. So I'm sorry to bother you again, but I'm utterly excited about how I got the gearbox to work properly. It operates smooth (backlash proof), more pleasant (no upper silicon bands), much lighter (less friction) and you don't need to pull the paddles to the extreme . This is the recipe for succes: I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). You won't believe how this feels compared to the original, I promise, you won't regret this . You only need 15 additional - commonly used, small - parts and you can drop 7. Flip the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees: Add the simple 90° limiter; give the bevel gear with pin hole max play: Remove the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimize friction instead: Use only one silicon band for each paddle shifter: Extend both change-over-catches in the gearbox using 2L axles and 2L levers: Edited October 24, 2016 by Didumos69 Quote
technic_addict Posted June 15, 2016 Posted June 15, 2016 I agree, great job Didumos. Would be really nice if at some point clear instructions of these changes were made. Quote
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